R53 MINI Cooper S (2002-06) R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08)
clean around the shift housing
Short Shift Kit
This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Pelican Parts' new book, How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI. The book contains 240 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 500+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any MINI owner's collection. The book is due to be released in late 2012. See The Official Book Website for more details.
Check out some other sample projects from the book:
Most front wheel drive cars nowadays use a series of cables to actuate the transmission gear changes. Because the transmission in front wheel drive cars is mounted transversely rather than longitudinally, it is difficult to come up with an actual mechanical linkage from the gearshift lever to the transmission. Having a cable operated system allows much more flexibility. NOTE: this arraignment is also used in some mid-engine cars, such as the Porsche Boxster.
This system typically works very well, although there is a weak spot in the design. On the MINI, the spherical end joints at the transmission end are held by a rubber mount that can wear out and eventually tear away from the cable. In our case, the rubber surrounding the spherical end on the cable had worn away almost to this point. If it had separated, it could render the gearshift useless. Replacing the cables is well within the reach of the do-it-yourselfer, however you do need to gain access to the underside of the car.
Begin by removing the air filter assembly (See our article on installing a performance intake system for more info). Underneath the lower airbox are the attachment points for the shift cables on the transmission (See Figure 2). Pry off the ball ends of the transmission with a screwdriver. If your cable ends are still good, I would recommend using a forked tool to apply equal pressure to each side of the rubber joint (See Figure 3). Once the ends are disconnected, squeeze the metal clips holding the cable ends into the black plastic holder and pry each cable end out (See Figure 4).
Now jack the car up and place it on jack stands. Refer to our article on jacking up your car for more info. Under the car, you will see the exhaust running down the center of the car. Above the exhaust are a set of heat shields that line the inside of the tunnel. We will need to access the shifter housing which sits right above the center tunnel heat shield. You will need to remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the tunnel (See Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8). There are a total of 8 nuts as well as a small 8mm bolt that secures the center tunnel heat shield at the front of the car (See Figure 9). Now remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield. You don’t need to actually remove the oxygen sensor, just the loom going to it (See Figure 10).
The center exhaust pipe is supported near the rear of the center tunnel by two rubber mounts bolted to a bracket. You will need to remove this bracket. There are 6 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the car and 2 10mm bolts that secure the mounts to the bracket. Remove all of these bolts and rotate the bracket downward to free the exhaust mounts (See Figures 11, 12 and 13).
Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing (See Figure 14). Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands (See Figure 15).
Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it (See Figure 16). You will now be able to see the two tabs holding the shift cable to the body directly above the catalytic converter. Pry the two rubber grommets holding the cables out of the tabs (See Figure 17).
Follow the cables back to the shifter housing. Now pry the plastic cover off the bottom exposing the cables inside. Pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (See Figure 18). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. You can grab the cable end with some channel locks and give it a good tug downward to yank it off. Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off and pull the cables out of the shift housing and free of the car (See Figure 19 and Figure 20 ). Be sure to remove the small o-rings on the end of the old cables, and slide them onto the new cables.
Now feed the new shift cables through the holes in the shifter housing, (taking care that the small o-rings around the cable retainers seat properly) Refit the cable retainer clips and pop the cable ends onto the new shift lever ball joints and re-fit the shift housing cover. work the other end of the cables up under the subframe to the plastic retainer on the transmission. Clearance will be tight in this area. Now, mount the plastic cable ends into the slots on the side of the retainer until they lock into position (See Figure 21). Now route the rubber grommets on the new cables into the tabs on the body above the catalytic converter. At this point, refit the heat shield and bolt the exhaust back together using a new gasket.
From the top of the car, inside the engine compartment, pop the new cable ends onto the ball joints on the transmission. Now get in the car and work the gearshift, checking that each throw operates smoothly.
Shown here are a set of new shift cables for the MINI Cooper S. Over time, the rubber that surrounds the spherical ends of the cable can wear or even tear loose, rendering the shifter inoperable.
Use two screwdrivers to pry the spherical ball joints off the connection points at the linkage. BMW specifies the use of a two armed tool to apply equal pressure to either side of the ball joint. With care, the screwdriver method will work. You can also use a an open end wrench to pry the ball joint off.
Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands.
Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it.
Now, pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (yellow arrow). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. I grabbed the cable end with some channel locks and gave it a good tug downward (green arrow). Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off (fuchsia arrows).
Comments: my sons car also wont move in gear. the shop guy said it needs another transmission. you think it could be the cable
January 16, 2014
Followup from the Pelican Staff: The cable is easy to check, have them look into it. It may need a rebuilt unit. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: @ Nick. I'm going to replace it all. both cables and the shifter. Not sure which shifter yet but any of the reputable after market shifters is going to be a step up. It would have been easier to sell the car if the engine didn't run so spectacular. That Brazilian motor just wants to go fast...If I could come up with a way to retain the cables and not bind them up I would but we're talking about a complete revamp of this set-up.
August 5, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: well my wife hasn't been able to go 30k in her 2002 S without shifter linkage problems. this is the third time the cable ends have "popped" out. We're on our second set of cables tooat 50k i think. needless to say I'm not impressed with how its engineered. I could pull the cables off the ball ends by hand.i think the balls need more press or retainers of some kind...sigh
July 27, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that the ball ends are not worn. This does not sound right to me. Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Could this be a reason why my 207 mini cooper will shift into gear but will not move?
July 5, 2013
Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the cables are faulty, the shifter will move, but it will not engage the gears. itis possible. I would inspect the shift cable operation at the transmission while you work the shifter. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Comments: Mini owners take note: On my 2002 MCS, they broke at 90,000 miles. Unfortunately they broke while in 50 mph heavy rush hour traffic, center lane, in the rain on a Friday afternoon. Fortunately I felt the shifter go limp as I downshifted and I immediately shot through a hole in traffic right at an exit lane. Had I not got the car off the road that split second, I would have been just another car broken blocking the center lane in rush hour traffic. I recommend replacing cables at 100,000 miles even if they are still working.
August 24, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info and mileage tip. Glad you were able to keep the car safe when the cables failed. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Check out some other sample projects from the book:
Applies to: R50 MINI Cooper (2002-06) - R53 MINI Cooper S (2002-06) - R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08) - R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08) - R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08) - R56 MINI Cooper (2007-) - R57 MINI Cooper Convertible (2007-)