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R53 Water Pump Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

R53 Water Pump Replacement

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$250

Tools:

socket set, screwdrivers

Applicable Models:

R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08)
R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08)
R53 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2002-06)

Parts Required:

Water pump

Hot Tip:

Apply some silicone grease to the water pump o-rings to help seal against the engine

Performance Gain:

Protects your engine against overheating

Complementary Modification:

Replace thermostat, radiator hoses
How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Pelican Parts' new book, How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI The book contains 240 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 500+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any MINI owner's collection. The book is due to be released in late 2015. See The Official Book Website for more details.

In the case of the MINI Cooper S, the water pump is driven off the end of the supercharger. This setup is a bit different than most cars where the water pump is driven off the engine belts. When a water pump begins to fail, you'll notice that the car tends to overheat at low engine speed, such as sitting at a stoplight. When you accelerate, the engine temperature will drop. Now, this is not always indicative of a water pump, but a good starting point. You may also want to try squeezing the top radiator hose with the engine warmed up and running. You should feel pressure build up on the back of the hose and surge once it is released. If you feel no pressure, it's a fair bet that the water pump is failing.

Begin the process by gaining access to your water pump.  This requires the removal of the front bumper cover and carrier, as well as the removal of all coolant from the system (See Pelican Technical Article: Sprint Booster Installation, Pelican Technical Article: Front Bumper Removal, and Pelican Technical Article: Coolant Change for more info). Remove the upper rubber air hose that sits between the throttle body and the airbox. Now remove the plastic lower air hose and the airbox (See Figure 1 and Figure 2). Also refer to Pelican Technical Article: Installing a Performance Intake System for more information.

Once the airbox and hoses are removed, you will see the throttle body assembly underneath. Remove the electrical connection and the four 10mm bolts securing it to the plastic air intake below (See Figure 3). Once removed, squeeze the hose clamp holding the vacuum line to the throttle body and carefully pull it off (See Figure 4). Now remove the two hose clamps securing the rubber hose between the plastic air intake and the intercooler output air duct/bypass valve. These clamps require a special tool in order to be re-used, however you can also use the regular screw style clamps in its place (See Figure 5).

Now carefully remove the vacuum lines from the plastic air intake by applying equal pressure to each side of the red clip and pry it out using two small screwdrivers. Take care in removing these clips as they are not available separately from BMW. They require you to replace the whole intake assembly. Once out, remove the bolt securing the plastic intake to the supercharger and remove the intake (See Figures 6 through 8). To remove the hose you simply:  push down on the red collar and pull up on the hose. The red collar stays in the intake. If the red collar doesn't stay in the intake, it will break. And the only way to get a new clip is with a new intake manifold.

At this point, move up to the top of the engine and remove the plastic air diverter from the top. It is held on with four T30 Torx screws. The two long screws at the top and the short screws fit into the bottom of the diverter (See Figure 9). Underneath is the intercooler. This is connected to the two sides of the intake with four T30 Torx screws on each side (See Figure 10). Each of the 4 clamps has an upper and lower piece. Make a note of which end goes up and down, as well as the screw locations as the clamps on the driver's side are smaller than the clamps on the passenger side of the engine (See Figure 11). Now remove the intercooler from the rubber sleeves. Once again, take note of the position of the rubber sleeves. Take care not to damage the sleeves when you remove them. Also, inspect the sleeves for cracks. These parts are under constant pressure from the supercharger. Over time, they can wear out (See Figure 12).

Now remove the right side intercooler bracket from the intake manifold as well as the stand-off for the electrical connection on the top. Disconnect the electrical connector to the T-MAP sensor on the front of the intake manifold as well (See Figure 13 and Figure 14). At this point, you can remove the three 13mm nuts that hold the intercooler output air duct to the manifold. You will probably need a socket with a long extension to reach the right side nut as it isn't easily accessible. Just below the duct, you can see the air intake bypass valve, which acts like a safety valve in the event of too much pressure in the intake manifold. Remove the duct and also the metal sealing gasket underneath (See Figures 16 through 18).

At the valve cover, remove the 8mm screw holding the PCV valve and hose on. The hose runs parallel to the fuel rail and will be easier to move if disconnected (See Figure 19 and Figure 20). Now look at the top of the engine. You will see the fuel rail, the fuel volume valve, the fuel injectors as well as the electrical connectors going to each injector. Press the metal wire on each fuel injector and pull them up and off of each injector (See Figure 21). Also pull the fuel injection wiring harness clips out of the metal fuel rail (See Figure 22).

Now remove the two 13mm bolts that secure the fuel rail to the cylinder head. Also take note of the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose running under the fuel rail. Pull the PCV hose out of the plastic clips directly in front of the fuel rail and set it aside. Now pull the fuel rail and injectors up and out of the intake manifold. It will take a little effort, but a little side to side force should release each injector out of the manifold (See Figure 23). Rotate the fuel rail up and set it on top of the valve cover.

Take special note of the vacuum line underneath the fuel rail. This provides the fuel volume valve with vacuum to operate correctly (See Figure 24). This is one of those lines where it isn't exactly easy to see where it connects. The straight rubber connector attaches to a port on the left side air duct, while the 90 degree rubber fitting sits up underneath on the bottom of the fuel volume valve. Pull the hose off both connections and set it aside (See Figure 25 and Figure 26).

At this point, you are ready to remove the intake manifold. Maneuver the vacuum lines and electrical connections up and out of the way so you can access the six 13mm flanged nuts holding the manifold to the cylinder head (See Figure 27). You will need to use a 13mm socket with a universal joint to access all but the furthest right nut on the manifold. For this one, you'll want to go in behind the duct with a 13mm offset wrench (See Figure 28 and Figure 29).

Now as you remove the manifold, take care to route it up and over the vacuum line going to the supercharger (See Figure 30). Also, keep an eye out for any electrical connections or vacuum lines you may have missed. This article is for a 2003 MINI Cooper S with a manual transmission. Later cars with automatic transmissions may differ a bit from ours.

With the intake manifold removed, take a look at the water pump. You'll see a hose leading from the thermostat housing to the side of the pump. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the hose clamp and slide it off the connection (See Figure 31). It may help to take a small screwdriver and carefully work between the hose and the neck of the pump. Over time, rubber hoses tend to stick to the fittings and can be difficult to remove.

You will need to remove the serpentine belt from the supercharger pulley. Use the belt tensioner tool to retract the tensioner and lock it in place. (See Pelican Technical Article: Serpentine Belt Removal for more info). Now remove the belt from the supercharger pulley and remove the bolt securing the outer arm of the tensioner to the supercharger. At the same time, remove the two 13mm mounting bolts holding the engine on the left side of the supercharger as well as the dipstick tube mounting bolt (See Figure 32).

Now move to the right side of the supercharger and carefully pry out the vacuum line as described previously. Then remove the long 13mm mounting bolt to the left of the vacuum fitting (See Figure 33). There is one final mounting bolt located under the supercharger which can be a bit difficult to see (See Figure 34).

With the bolts removed, carefully pry the water pump fitting out of the flange on the engine block while at the same time you remove the hose leading in to the water pump (See Figure 35). There will likely be a bit of coolant left over in the engine block, so it's not a bad idea to have a drain pan underneath.

Now remove the three 13mm bolts securing the water pump to the end of the supercharger and set it aside (See Figure 36). Look at the engine block and also remove the bolts holding the flange on. There is an O-ring behind it that should be replaced at the same time (See Figure 37). Now in our case, the O-ring on the back of the water pump was easily removed but had a layer of corrosion built up around it. If yours is the same, clean the groove in the flange of any corrosion that may be left behind. Be careful not to gouge the surface of the groove or the sealing surface. If the flange is corroded all the way through, replace it. Now coat the new o-ring with a light film of silicone grease and fit it into the groove (See Figure 38 and Figure 39).

Before you bolt the flange back on the engine, take a razor blade and scrape off any corrosion or leftover rubber from the O-ring that may still be stuck on there (See Figure 40). Again, carefully do this. You don't want to gouge or deeply scratch the mounting surface. This could prevent the O-ring from sealing and cause a leak.

With the supercharger removed from the car, it doesn't hurt to take the cover off the top and have a look inside (See Figure 41 through 43). The MINI Cooper S uses a Roots-type supercharger built by Eaton Corporation. "Roots" refers to the name of the two brothers who originally patented the basic design as an air pump in iron blast furnaces around the time of the Industrial Revolution. Roots type superchargers use a twin-lobe mechanism that is geared off of the front pulley which compresses air as it moves between the two screw blades. These are also often called positive displacement units because they move a fixed amount of air per revolution. This design creates good compression at lower RPMs, resulting in a significant increase in power from idle all the way through the rest of the power range. Most drag racers who want instant boost off the line use a Roots type supercharger.

Now, fit the water pump onto the end of the supercharger. You fill see a set of "fingers" that fit into each other. You want to turn the fingers until they mesh and line up the legs of the water pump with the holes on the supercharger (See Figure 44 and Figure 45). Now fit a new O-ring to the end of the water pump with a light film of silicone grease (See Figure 46). When you re-mount the supercharger to the engine, there is a small alignment dowel that fits into the engine block near the belt tensioner. Slide the bolt in and thread it in just a little bit. You need to have to supercharger free on this side just a tad so that you can push the water pump into the flange (See Figure 47 and Figure 48).

And that's pretty much it. Re-assembly is the reverse of these directions, but take special care to re-connect all vacuum hoses and electrical connections. It helps to write a check list and also to take pictures as you go so that you have a visual record of how things go together.

The water pump on the R55/R56/R57 MINI is located on the right rear of the engine and the replacement procedure is different from the R50/R52/R53 models. Begin by removing the cap on the coolant expansion tank. You'll need to remove the front splash shield on the underside of the engine compartment and disconnect the hose clamp holding the lower radiator hose to the radiator. There is no coolant drain plug on the radiator unfortunately. Make sure that you have a container large enough to hold at least 5 gallons of coolant.

Once drained, you'll need to remove the serpentine belt from the car. Refer to our article on Serpentine Belt Removal for more info. Once the Serpentine belt is removed, look for the water pump pulley. You'll need to remove the three bolts holding the pulley to the pump impeller. These can be a bit difficult to access from the top of the car. Once the pulley is removed, you'll need to remove the friction wheel assembly just to the right of the water pump. Begin by pulling the tab on the friction wheel assembly and holding it to put the wheel into service position. Now remove the three 10mm bolts holding it in place and remove the assembly from the engine compartment.

With the friction wheel assembly removed, you will have enough access to remove the five 10mm bolts holding the water pump assembly to the block. Be prepared for some coolant to spill out of the bottom of the housing when you remove the pump. Also be sure to inspect the friction surface on the water pump pulley for wear. If it is worn down, replace the pulley.

Begin by removing the upper air hose from the airbox.
Figure 1

Begin by removing the upper air hose from the airbox. Pull the air fitting out of the side of the hose.

Remove the hose clamp securing the upper air hose to the throttle body and remove it.
Figure 2

Remove the hose clamp securing the upper air hose to the throttle body and remove it. Also remove the lower plastic air hose and the airbox assembly (See Pelican Technical Article: Installing a Performance Intake System, Installing a cold air intake for more information).

Remove the four 10mm bolts securing the throttle body to the intake tube (green arrows).
Figure 3

Remove the four 10mm bolts securing the throttle body to the intake tube (green arrows). Also remove the electrical connector going to the throttle (yellow arrow).

Once removed, locate the vacuum connection on the side of the throttle body.
Figure 4

Once removed, locate the vacuum connection on the side of the throttle body.

Remove the two hose clamps securing the rubber hose between the plastic air intake and the intercooler output air duct/bypass valve.
Figure 5

Remove the two hose clamps securing the rubber hose between the plastic air intake and the intercooler output air duct/bypass valve. These clamps require a special tool in order to be re-used, however you can also use the regular screw style clamps in it's place.

Now remove the bolt securing the plastic air intake to the supercharger.
Figure 6

Now remove the bolt securing the plastic air intake to the supercharger.

Carefully remove the vacuum lines from the plastic air intake by applying equal pressure to each side of the red clip and pry it out using two small screwdrivers.
Figure 7

Carefully remove the vacuum lines from the plastic air intake by applying equal pressure to each side of the red clip and pry it out using two small screwdrivers. To remove the hose you simply push down on the red collar and pull up on the hose. The red collar stays in the intake. If the red collar doesn't stay in the intake, it will break. And the only way to get a new clip is with a new intake manifold.

Now remove the lower plastic intake from the supercharger and the air bypass valve.
Figure 8

Now remove the lower plastic intake from the supercharger and the air bypass valve.

Remove the four T30 Torx bolts holding the plastic air diverter to the top of the intercooler (green arrows).
Figure 9

Remove the four T30 Torx bolts holding the plastic air diverter to the top of the intercooler (green arrows).

Now remove the eight T30 Torx bolts holding the clamps securing the manifolds to the intercooler (green arrows).
Figure 10

Now remove the eight T30 Torx bolts holding the clamps securing the manifolds to the intercooler (green arrows).

Each of the 4 clamps has an upper and lower piece.
Figure 11

Each of the 4 clamps has an upper and lower piece. Make a note of which end goes up and down, as well as the screw locations as the clamps on the driver's side are smaller than the clamps on the passenger side of the engine.

Now remove the clamps from the rubber sleeves.
Figure 12

Now remove the clamps from the rubber sleeves. Once again, take note of the position of the rubber sleeves. Take care not to damage the sleeves when you remove them from the intercooler and the manifolds. Also, inspect the sleeves for cracks. These parts are under constant pressure from the supercharger. Over time, they can wear out.

Remove the right side intercooler bracket from the intake manifold as well as the stand-off for the electrical connection on the top.
Figure 13

Remove the right side intercooler bracket from the intake manifold as well as the stand-off for the electrical connection on the top.

Disconnect the electrical connector to the T-MAP sensor on the front of the intake manifold and also disconnect the electrical connection that was attached to the bracket you removed in the last step.
Figure 14

Disconnect the electrical connector to the T-MAP sensor on the front of the intake manifold and also disconnect the electrical connection that was attached to the bracket you removed in the last step.

Now remove the two 13mm nuts on the intercooler output air duct as shown here (green arrows).
Figure 15

Now remove the two 13mm nuts on the intercooler output air duct as shown here (green arrows).

Now remove the 13mm nut on the other side of the duct (green arrow).
Figure 16

Now remove the 13mm nut on the other side of the duct (green arrow). You will probably need a socket with a long extension to reach it. Just below the duct, you can see the air intake bypass valve, which acts like a safety valve in the event of too much pressure in the intake manifold.

Now remove the intercooler output air duct.
Figure 17

Now remove the intercooler output air duct.

Also remove the metal gasket for the duct.
Figure 18

Also remove the metal gasket for the duct. Inspect the gasket for damage or deformation.

Remove the 8mm screw holding the vent valve to the valve cover.
Figure 19

Remove the 8mm screw holding the vent valve to the valve cover.

Pop the vent valve out of the valve cover.
Figure 20

Pop the vent valve out of the valve cover. Removing the vent valve and hose gives you a little bit more room when removing it from the fuel rail later on.

Remove the electrical plug going to each fuel injector by pressing the small metal clip in and pull the plug off each injector (green arrows).
Figure 21

Remove the electrical plug going to each fuel injector by pressing the small metal clip in and pull the plug off each injector (green arrows).

Pull the fuel injection wring harness out of the brackets on the fuel rail as shown here.
Figure 22

Pull the fuel injection wring harness out of the brackets on the fuel rail as shown here. They simply pull out.

Remove the two 13mm bolts that secure the fuel rail to the cylinder head (green arrows).
Figure 23

Remove the two 13mm bolts that secure the fuel rail to the cylinder head (green arrows). Also take note of the fuel volume valve vacuum hose running under the fuel rail (yellow arrow). Pull the PCV hose out of the plastic clips directly in front of the fuel rail and set it aside. Now pull the fuel rail and injectors up and out of the intake manifold. It will take a little effort, but a little side to side force should release them.

Shown here is the fuel volume valve vacuum hose removed from the car.
Figure 24

Shown here is the fuel volume valve vacuum hose removed from the car. This is one of those items that isn't readily visible. The straight connector (on the left in the photo) on this hose attaches to the intake manifold while the angled, 90 degree end (on the right in this photo) fits to the underside of the fuel pressure regulator.

The green arrow shows the mounting location of the fuel volume valve vacuum hose at the intake manifold.
Figure 25

The green arrow shows the mounting location of the fuel volume valve vacuum hose at the intake manifold. Pull the vacuum hose off at this connection.

As you remove the fuel rail from the car, you can see how the vacuum hose connects to the underside of the fuel pressure regulator (green arrows).
Figure 26

As you remove the fuel rail from the car, you can see how the vacuum hose connects to the underside of the fuel pressure regulator (green arrows). Do not lose this hose. Remove it at this point and set it aside. Also, check the condition of the O-rings at the tip of each fuel injector. If they appear dry, cracked or swollen, replace them.

Set the fuel rail up above the valve cover and move any vacuum lines or electrical connections out of the way so you can access the six 13mm flanged nuts holding the manifold to the cylinder head.
Figure 27

Set the fuel rail up above the valve cover and move any vacuum lines or electrical connections out of the way so you can access the six 13mm flanged nuts holding the manifold to the cylinder head.

Use a 13mm socket with universal joint and extension to remove the nuts holding the intake manifold to the cylinder head.
Figure 28

Use a 13mm socket with universal joint and extension to remove the nuts holding the intake manifold to the cylinder head.

The intake manifold nut farthest to the left can be kind of difficult to remove.
Figure 29

The intake manifold nut farthest to the left can be kind of difficult to remove. Access it with an offset 13mm wrench as shown here (green arrow).

As you remove the intake manifold, guide the vacuum line going to the supercharger through the intake runners and out.
Figure 30

As you remove the intake manifold, guide the vacuum line going to the supercharger through the intake runners and out. Remove the intake manifold gasket underneath.

Remove the hose clamp holding the hose to the side of the water pump.
Figure 31

Remove the hose clamp holding the hose to the side of the water pump.

Shown here are the mounting bolts for the left side of the supercharger.
Figure 32

Shown here are the mounting bolts for the left side of the supercharger. Retract the belt tensioner and remove the belt from the supercharger pulley. (See our article on belt removal for more info). Remove the mounting bolt for the belt tensioner (yellow arrow) as well as the two bolts holding the supercharger to the engine and the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the supercharger (green arrows).

Now remove the vacuum line from the supercharger carefully and remove the large mounting bolt securing the supercharger to the front of the engine.
Figure 33

Now remove the vacuum line from the supercharger carefully and remove the large mounting bolt securing the supercharger to the front of the engine.

There is also a hidden mounting bolt under the supercharger.
Figure 34

There is also a hidden mounting bolt under the supercharger. Use a long extension to access it.

At this point, you will be able to remove the supercharger from the front of the engine.
Figure 35

At this point, you will be able to remove the supercharger from the front of the engine. Use care as you pull the water pump free of the flange on the block. Also take care as you remove the remaining hose from the water pump.

Now remove the three bolts securing the water pump to the end of the supercharger.
Figure 36

Now remove the three bolts securing the water pump to the end of the supercharger.

Remove the bolts holding the water pump flange to the engine block (green arrows).
Figure 37

Remove the bolts holding the water pump flange to the engine block (green arrows).

On the back of the water pump flange you will find an O-ring that is used to seal the flange to the engine block.
Figure 38

On the back of the water pump flange you will find an O-ring that is used to seal the flange to the engine block. Use a pick or other means to remove the o-ring. You will probably need to clean the groove in the flange of any corrosion that may be left behind. Be careful not to gouge the surface of the groove or the sealing surface. If the flange is corroded all the way through, replace it.

Put a light coat of silicone grease on the new O-ring and fit it into the groove on the back of the flange.
Figure 39

Put a light coat of silicone grease on the new O-ring and fit it into the groove on the back of the flange.

Before remounting the flange to the engine block, take a razor blade and carefully scrape off any corrosion that may have built up on the sealing surface.
Figure 40

Before remounting the flange to the engine block, take a razor blade and carefully scrape off any corrosion that may have built up on the sealing surface.

If you would like to take a look at the lobes inside the supercharger, remove the bolts (green arrows) shown here.
Figure 41

If you would like to take a look at the lobes inside the supercharger, remove the bolts (green arrows) shown here.

The supercharger on the MINI Cooper S is a Roots-type supercharger, named for the Roots brothers who first patented the original design.
Figure 42

The supercharger on the MINI Cooper S is a Roots-type supercharger, named for the Roots brothers who first patented the original design. Offering a good amount of positive air pressure at low engine speeds, It is the most common type of supercharger used on automobile engines.

Shown here are the lobes of the supercharger.
Figure 43

Shown here are the lobes of the supercharger. It operates by pulling air through a pair of meshing lobes. Air is trapped in pockets surrounding the lobes and carried from the intake side to the exhaust. This compressed air is able to enter the engine faster, which results in increased power. The supercharger is driven directly from the engine's crankshaft from the serpentine belt.

Shown here are the 'fingers' on both the end of the supercharger as well as the water pump.
Figure 44

Shown here are the 'fingers' on both the end of the supercharger as well as the water pump. These two fingers need to mesh as shown in the photo.

Fit the water pump to the end of the supercharger and re-install the mounting bolts.
Figure 45

Fit the water pump to the end of the supercharger and re-install the mounting bolts. Torque them to 25Nm (18ft/lbs.) (MINI Cooper S only).

Slide the new O-ring over the water pump neck where it mates with the flange on the engine block.
Figure 46

Slide the new O-ring over the water pump neck where it mates with the flange on the engine block.

When you re-mount the supercharger to the engine, there is a small alignment dowel that fits into the engine block near the belt tensioner.
Figure 47

When you re-mount the supercharger to the engine, there is a small alignment dowel that fits into the engine block near the belt tensioner. Slide the bolt in and thread it in just a little bit. You need to have to supercharger free on this side just a tad so that you can push the water pump into the flange.

With a new o-ring fitted on the end of the pump, push the pump end into the flange on the engine block.
Figure 48

With a new o-ring fitted on the end of the pump, push the pump end into the flange on the engine block. Lightly coat the o-ring with a film of silicone grease to help it pop into place.

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Comments and Suggestions:
ragedmx Comments: I have r53 SC mini , the water pump conects via water flange to the engine block, but there is other hole to connect the water pump for a non SC version that cap that goes to that hole do you have it available or what part number is?
September 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The plates are available.
I’m not the best with part numbers.

Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ragedmx Comments: I have a r53 SC mini , do you have the flange cap that goes on the other engine water hole ? The one that is on behind the scenes.
September 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The plates are available.
I’m not the best with part numbers.

Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JimmyMc Comments: Thanks for the write up. I went in and took the supercharger out without putting the car into service mode and having to recharge the air conditioning.
My mini is a 2005 R53 and the only adaptation for anyone doing a 2005 or later is to remove the top alternator mounting bolt also, the supercharger came right out then.
Great write up.
Thanks again, Jimmy
April 4, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Randall Comments: Hi Nick thank you for the time and effort with the technical articles.
I'd like to point out that there could be DEBRIS AROUND THE INJECTORS. I saw the debris around valve cover but not under the injector/fuel rail assembly.For some reason my 2005 Mini Cooper S R53 had some small sand particles and/or really small rocks mixed with oily powdery grit. Guess it came through the intercooler. I'm the second owner and only has 55k miles. Ended getting some on the valves and am so scared it will do major damage to my engine. From your experience what do you think?
March 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't see that large of debris getting past the air filter. Unless it wasn't seated correctly. If you get it out, it may be ok. Hard to say if it did any damage. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MBL828 Comments: Your excellent write up on the valve cover gasket replacement directs us here to see about removal of intercooler and fuel rail for an S - but I can't tell just how far I need to go with the steps here. Can you indicate through which step we need to go just to be able to do the valve cover gasket repair? Thanks and hope that makes sense.
November 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Just remove the items until you can see the entire valve cover and fasteners. The entire intercooler will have to come off for starters. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
WTFM Comments: Nick, Your technical support is outstanding. Thank you.
In this Water Pump Replacement Article, one important step was left out. My personal experience has probably been the same as many others. It is pure luck that there was not a water leak after replacing the flange "O" ring described in your photos 37, 38, and 39. In my case, after having performed this procedure without a problem at least 4 times, my luck ran out. The result was a major water leak between the water pump flange and the water pump outlet tube. My first reaction was that I left out the "O" ring. After I tore the assembly down, I found the "O" ring was in place. Confused, I did a little google searching and found this Technical Bulletin:
Complaint: Coolant leak from water pump mounting flange
Vehicles concerned: R53 with W11

Cause:The connection between the water pump housing and the mounting flange on the crankcase is leaking. The rubber O-ring has been crushed on one side by incorrect centering of water pump to mounting flange.

Measure:
1. In case of customer complaint replace the two O-rings, part number 11 51 7 509 186.
2. Apply “Syntheso Glep 1” to the O rings, part number 83 23 9 407 778.
3. Refer to repair manual group 11 section 11 51 00 for proper water pump O ring replacement.
4. The following alignment procedure should be done in sequence:
a. align water pump to supercharger and tighten. refer to tech data for torque specifications.
b. align water pump to mounting flange and tighten flange. refer to tech data for torque specifications.
c. align supercharger to mounts and tighten. refer to tech data for torque specifications.
5. In case of coolant leak caused by water pump/flange misalignment, it is not necessary to replace water pump.

Nick, My luck ran out in my last maintenance operation. I spoke with a friend and he has been as lucky as me, which I expect has been others pure luck. The problem was that the two bolts which secure the flange were tightened down with the flange slightly out of alignment. There is about a 1/8 in of alignment tolerance. I thought it was centered, but, it was off.
My solution is to
1. Leave the two flange bolts loose.
2. Position the SC on the flange,
3. Position SC on alignment pin,
4. Draw SC up tight against the engine.
5. Move the flange with a long screw driver to help center it on the water pump tube.
6. Tighten the two flange bolts with a 8mm and long extension, as seen in attached photo.
7. Torque the SC bolts.
8. Pray
October 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Awesome info and thanks for taking the time to share it. I will have these notes added to the article. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bugeye Comments: How much of this is necessary to just check/replace the supercharger oil on an 05 R53?
Thanks,
August 26, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The pump has to come off to access the oil plug. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Marojas Comments: Hi, How many hours I need to change water pump. Thanks
August 9, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle? If a first gen MINI, set aside half a day. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RGB Comments: See 8-11-2014 comment.

This eliminates the "opportunity" to foul up the intake manifold, fuel rail and supercharger.

To facilitate this, I removed the radiator completely!!

And checked the SuperCharger oil reservoirs 2 on a 125,000 mile MCS. Water Pump side had a few drops left OUCH, the other side was down about 1/2. One 4 oz container of SC Oil recharged both sides. Nipped the spout and plugged on a 12" piece of 3/16" ID clear vinyl hose from Home Depot. Topped both sides up!!

The water pump INLET/OUTLET are mounted at a 90 degree angle, so it will NOT come out. Block flange MUST be removed, easy. Another Water Pump O-ring seals it.

The water pump can be removed without removing the intake manifold, fuel rail and supercharger. Simply remove the water pump flange bolts with an extension through the gaps of the water pump. You can see the bolts by looking "through" the pump. Also using an open end wrench on the red vacuum connections helps. Use the open end wrench to push down on the red collar and pull up on the hose.
January 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This is correct: push down on the red collar and pull up on the hose.

I will have it corrected to reflect that step. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
RGB Comments: NICK - PLEASE FIX the instructions.

If you believe everyone will read through all the gibberish question and answers to find the instruction corrections buried in this mess... SEE EMERGENCY CORRECTION 1-5-2013.

PRY with two screwdrivers is certainly NOT the way to release the red tabs 2.

Press down on the red tabs on both sides at the same time, while working the tube upwards.

Someone mentioned using a small open end wrench for pressing, I just squeezed 1st and 2nd fingers tube in middle downward on the red tab with the thumb on the bottom of the intake tube.

Thank you MUCH!

Please FIX mistake, its in the text at the top AND with Figure 7.
January 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: YES - I will have this corrected right away.

The collar stays in the intake as you noted in you previous intake. if broken, real trouble.

Thanks for getting at me to change this. Appreciate it!- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
carolbarrel Comments: Help our Mini has a leak ,the engine over heated and no warning lights came on. It would appear that some thing is missing with the connection of pipe to engine ? Have no idea what has fallen off or why !!
December 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty. The external leak, if it shows up can direct you to the faulty component. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
DocWiggles Comments: Hello,

Where can i find these 2 red clips for the hoses? and the female part where these things plugs into? are these available for sale individually?

thanks
DocWiggles
December 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Those do not come separately. As far as I know. It is a worth a call to our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Danny c Comments: Sorry it's Mini Cooper s R53, 2004, have bled etc.
November 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Danny C Comments: Hi, Firstly many thanks for your information it has helped me out loads.

I am having trouble with heating in the cab, I have read that there is a possibility that the water pump could cause this???? I have bled system, I have also got heat on both pipes going in and out of the heater matrix, however the fan does seem to kick in very early when in traffic and heat to temperature quickly, it does not though over heat or go past the middle of the temp gauge, I have also replaced thermostat.

Many Thanks
November 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on?

First try bleeding it. If there is no air, check that there is a steady stream of coolant flowing into the reservoir or out of the vent line. If not, the water pump may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mr Mini Comments: During the repair do you suggest replacing the supercharger oil? I notice that a few other DIY teams suggest this preventative maintenance. As the supercharger is out to replace the water pump, the age and mileage may also align with this service? If so - do you sell the oil? Or is the supercharger oil really 'life time' BMW fluid?
November 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I authored maybe the first supercharger service article years back. I would say replace it, or fill it when you have the chance. usually when you get in there, it is gone. Use GM supercharger fluid. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right oil.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Sebaie Comments: Dear sir,
I have a Mini S 2009, I need to change the water pump because the old one got broken. My Question, Is it necessary to remove a the motor to change the water pump or I can do it by only removing the front-bumper and the carrier?? My whole aim is to not get close the car Motor..

Thank You
October 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can replace the pump by removing the front carrier. You will have to remove the right side fender liner, as the pump in located on the right side of the engine.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
EstevanGomez Comments: hello. where could I buy the water pump 'fingers' I've check ebay & looked around on the web..can't find the fingers. thank you very much.
August 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Luigi Comments: Also need the torque settings for the bolts that mount the s/c to the block
August 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have those handy.
I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
bdob Comments: The water pump can be removed without removing the intake manifold, fuel rail and supercharger. Simply remove the water pump flange bolts with an extension through the gaps of the water pump. You can see the bolts by looking "through" the pump. Also using an open end wrench on the red vacuum connections helps. Use the open end wrench to push down on the red collar and pull up on the hose.
August 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: True, but that is pro technique and leaves little room for error. i would say most DIYers should stick to the factory procedure, for best results. Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
AJ bruccy Comments: Sorry, my question wasn't quite clear after I read it over.

What are the torque specs of the bolts that hold the supercharger to the block.

3- 9.8mm bolts
1- 10.9mm bolt
August 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, I don't have the torque specs handy. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
AJ Bruccy Comments: What are the torque specs for the mounting bolts of the supercharger?
August 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, I don't have the torque specs handy. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Randy Comments: I did the job, all worked well for a few hundred miles, though I broke the red clips, JB welded hoses back in now I have fast idle problems. I found the intake known as "intake duct for supercharger", ordered, and ordered the gray hose, cannot find the black hose- hope I can reuse the old one. If anyone finds the black one let me know how to order.
November 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You should be able to find all the hoses in the engine compartment. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
lou Comments: Thanks for putting up these articles and being and excellent source for quality parts.
I too broke the vacuum line. It was easily repaired with jb weld and silicone hose. I was able to replace the pump with removing the supercharger.
September 27, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback and additional info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Randy Comments: you might need the following as per my previous email:

water pump kit and serpentine belt replaced on a 2003 Mini Cooper S
September 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Randy Comments: I just finished the waterpump replacement also did the serpentine belt after working on it all weekend, but then could not start the car very discouraged. I'm an experienced shade tree mechanic, fairly sure I didn't miss any connections or hoses. The only thing I was not confident about, was the fuel injectors- they were hard to pop out, I did not push them in aggressively when putting them back, but simply let the fuel rail push them as I tightened the bolts. Any suggestions?
September 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Even if the fuel rail was slightly up, the fuel would reach the cylinders and allow the engine to start, it may run rough. I would guess something is unplugged or misrouted. DOuble check the crank sensor plug, down in the fron of the engine near the transmission. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tom Comments: You really do need to take the alternator off to get the supercharger off and back on again without jockeying it so much that you damage the o ring on the water pump. I know, I had to do the job twice because I ripped the o ring the first time. And banyan's comments about the torque specs is right on as it Charlie's about the red clips that retain the vacuum lines.
September 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Veritas Comments: I also broke my red tabbed vacuum lines feeding into the plastic manifold. I can't find the replacement parts. Do you sell those two vacuum hoses. One is grey in color, the other black. Thanks
August 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the red release tab is broken, it is not available, you get it with a new intake manifold. The vacuum lines should be available. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bigdog larry Comments: appreciate all of this info as i was quoted @ 1400.00 for the job save a buck and do myself
March 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Charlie Fisenne Comments: Hi Wayne,
Regarding your procedure at
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/22-WATER-R53_Water_Pump_Replacement/22-WATER-R53_Water_Pump_Replacement.htm


For removal of the vacuum hoses with the red clips, in order to remove the hoses you need to push the clips in. Do not pry them out. If you just push the red clip in the opposite direction of hose removal, the hose will slide right out.
I broke mine following the pry out procedure listed in the DIY.

Recommend change
"Now carefully remove the vacuum lines from the plastic air intake by applying equal pressure to each side of the red clip and pry it out using two small screwdrivers. Take care in removing these clips as they are not available separately from BMW. They require you to replace the whole intake assembly."

to

"Remove the vacuum lines from the plastic air intake by pressing in on the red clip while gently pulling the vacuum hose out. When the red clip is pressed in its teeth and tabs are allowed to open within the fitting and release its grip on the hose."

I appreciate the wealth of information your site provides and hope you find this feedback constructive.
January 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. You are correct, to release a hose or line from the red friction clip, you press the red collar down and hold, while pulling line out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
banyan Comments: for a mcs 06, i had to remove the alternator to free up the supercharger. also, the intake manifold would not come-off. the right side end of the intake mani hits the top of the supercharger and will not come off. i had to grind a little bit to remove it. I replaced the oil dipstick tube o-ring and so with the crank sensor o-ring while in there.

also replaced all cooling hoses. noticed that after market hoses are a little wider than the original so space was tight but it worked ok.

In my case, it was the water pump oring that was leaking. the water pump was good. I replaced the water pump anyways.
I think the oring connection to the flange is the weak point. it is a bad design in my view.

one important info missing in the write-up is torque specs. this is a very useful data and should be added to add more value.

one additional comment. putting the car in service mode is a must to have enough room to work in the engine bay
September 8, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the information. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ryanleeis Comments: is the o-ring on the flange the same as the o-ring that is fitted on the pump?

Thanks
August 14, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, they are not the same size. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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