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Fuel Pump and Filter Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Fuel Pump and Filter Replacement

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$200 to $400

Talent:

****

Tools:

10mm socket, screwdrivers, rubber mallet, fuel pump ring tool

Applicable Models:

R50 MINI Cooper Hatchback (2002-06)
R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08)
R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08)
R53 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2002-06)

Parts Required:

New fuel pump assembly

Hot Tip:

Lay out plastic sheeting to prevent fuel from spilling everywhere.

Performance Gain:

Car runs again

Complementary Modification:

Clean fuel injectors
How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Pelican Parts' new book, How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI The book contains 240 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 500+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any MINI owner's collection. The book is due to be released in late 2015. See The Official Book Website for more details.

Some common fuel injection problems can be traced back to a faulty or non-operational fuel pump. If your pump is noisy and loud, or the fuel pressure in the engine compartment is below what is needed for proper fuel injection operation, then it's probably time to replace it. The fuel pump is a not as simple a device as one might think. The fuel actually runs through the pump and acts as a coolant and lubricant for the entire assembly. Therefore, if you let your car run out of gas, make sure that you turn off the car immediately, or you might damage the internal components of the pump.

Typical fuel pump problems can sometimes be headed off in advance. If the pump is noisy, and making loud clicking noises, then chances are that the bearings inside are worn and should be replaced. If the pump continues to make noise even after the ignition is shut off, internal check-valves in the pump may be showing signs of failure. The pump could seize up at some time, or the pressure to the fuel injection system could drop. Either way, the car will not be performing at its peak. Another symptom of failure is the pump getting stuck, and then finally kicking in after turning the ignition on and off a couple of times. This could be a clear sign that you are living on borrowed time, and that you should replace the pump immediately. Check the electrical connections to the pump before you replace it to make sure that it's not an electrical problem.

The first step in replacement is to prep the car. Remove as much gasoline out of the car as possible or wait until the car is almost out of gas. Some warnings too:

  • Always have a fire extinguisher handy in case an emergency arises.
     
  • Gasoline is highly flammable. When working around fuel and fuel line connections, don't disconnect any wires or electrical connections that may cause electrical sparks.
     
  • Always remove the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the tank prior to working on the fuel system.
     
  • Do not use a work lamp when working near fuel or fuel tanks. If you need some light, use a cool fluorescent lamp and keep it far away from the pump.
     
  • Gasoline vapors are strong, harmful, and can cause you to become drowsy and not think straight. Always perform work in a well-ventilated area with plenty of fresh air blowing through.
     
  • Always disconnect the battery when working on the fuel system. Leave it disconnected for at least 30 minutes to allow any residual electrical charge in components to dissipate.
     
  • Keep plenty of paper towels on hand, and wear rubber gloves to prevent spilling gasoline on your hands.
     
  • Be well grounded - don't do anything that will create static electricity. Keep all cell phones and pagers a safe distance away.
     
  • Run the car so that the gas tank is near empty

Begin by disconnecting the battery. Please refer to our article on battery disconnection for more info. You'll now need to relieve the pressure in the fuel rail. This prevents fuel from spraying out once you disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump as it may still be under pressure. The easiest way to do this is to prevent power from reaching the fuel pump by pulling the fuse out and then running the engine until it dies. On the both the Cooper and Cooper S this is fuse number F20. Pull the fuse and start the engine. Let it run until it dies.

Additionally, you should use the Schrader valve on the fuel rail of both the Cooper and Cooper S to relieve the pressure. On the Cooper, the Schrader valve is readily accessible once the cover is removed. Use a small screwdriver to press the pin on the Schrader valve while surrounding it with rags to absorb the fuel. On the Cooper S, the fuel rail is not easily accessible, being under the intercooler. If you wish to access it, please see our article on R53 water pump removal for instructions on how to remove the intercooler.

If the car already won't start due to a bad fuel pump, there may not be any pressure in the line to start the car. Don't automatically assume there is no pressure in the line. It's better to be safe and press the Schrader valve to make sure.

Inside the car, remove the lower rear seat cushion. Pry out the four plastic covers at the rear edge of the seat. It will take a little force to remove them from the seat. Take care to pry them out at the outer edge of the cover. The inner part of the cover flips open and it is easy to damage this flap. Once all the covers are removed, pry up the front edge of the seat cushion. It should pop off with a little force.

Once removed, you'll see two circular metal covers bolted on the floor of the car. The fuel pump is located under the left (driver's side) cover. Remove the 10mm nuts holding the cover to the floor and gently pry the cover off. Directly below, you'll see the fuel pump assembly mounted in the fuel tank. Begin by disconnecting the electrical connection to the pump. Slide the plastic locking tab on the electrical connector to the side to unlock it and pull the electrical connection off the pump.

At this point, you may want to lay some plastic sheeting around the opening in the floor for the fuel pump. Tape it in place around the hole in the floor. This helps to prevent fuel from spilling all over the floor of the car when you pull the fuel pump out.

Now comes the hardest part of the job, loosening the ring that holds the pump in place. MINI calls out the use of a special tool that fits over the tabs on the top of the ring. Pelican sells a special tool (BM-161020) that works on both the R50/R52/R53 cars as well as the R55/R56/R57 cars. However, you can also use a brass punch with a rubber mallet to carefully tap the ring counter-clockwise. Once removed, carefully lift the ring up and off the fuel pump.

Now slowly pull the fuel pump up out of the fuel tank until you can access the clips holding the fuel lines to the pump and carefully disconnect them. Now you can remove the pump assembly from inside the tank. First pull the pump straight up as far as it will go to drain out any fuel still remaining in the pump assembly. Once it's drained, you'll have to angle the fuel pump to remove both the pump and also the fuel level sender arm which is attached to the pump assembly. The sender arm works the same way as a float valve in a toilet. When the fuel level in the tank raises or lowers the float on the end of the sender arm raises and lowers. This in turn is attached to a small rheostat which sends a low voltage electrical signal to the fuel gauge. This sender arm can be a bit cumbersome when trying to remove the pump assembly. Just play around with the angles until you can remove both pieces. You may also want to secure the fuel lines going to the pump with some cord to prevent them from getting lost inside the tank.

The fuel filter is located under the access cover on the right (passenger's side) of the car. To access it, remove the 10mm nuts holding the cover in place and then carefully pry the cover up and off the floor. Once removed, you'll see the filter housing underneath. Like with the fuel pump, it's a good idea to have the plastic sheeting around it.

Begin removing the filter by pressing in the side tabs on the fuel line connection and pulling it out of the filter housing. Once disconnected, use the hammer and screwdriver to carefully tap the metal locking ring counterclockwise until you can unscrew it by hand and lift it up and off the filter housing. Now lift the filter housing up about 6 inches and twist the top cap off. This sounds a lot easier then it really is. Once you get the top off, you'll see the filter element below. Pull the filter up and out of the housing.

You'll notice that the old filter housing will probably be black from contamination and dirt. Be careful not to get the filter near anything you don't want stained black. Inside the filter housing, you'll see an O-ring at the very bottom. Pull this O-ring off and replace it. Also replace the O-ring inside the cap at the top.

Fit the large O-ring around the outside of the upper cap. Take the new filter and press it down into the filter housing as far as it will go. You'll need to hold the filter housing as you do this. Now fit the tank seal over the lower filter housing. Make sure you look at the seal and note the side that says THIS SIDE DOWN.

Take the upper cover and carefully line up the tabs on it (it can only go in one way) with the tabs on the lower filter housing. Take care to make sure the upper cover is directly seated on the filter element. If it isn't, the car won't start. We found this out the hard way after re-assembling the fuel system. Once the upper cover is seated, rotate it clockwise until it stops. This will lock it in place.

Now you'll need to lubricate the fuel tank seal with some silicone grease to help it seal. You need to get the lower edge of the seal to fit on the edge of the fuel tank. Once it place and seated correctly, you can just press the filter housing down and into place , making sure that the tang on the upper cover fits into

Begin by disconnecting the battery and then pulling fuse number F20 (green arrow) in the inside fuse panel to disable the power going to the fuel pump.
Figure 1

Begin by disconnecting the battery and then pulling fuse number F20 (green arrow) in the inside fuse panel to disable the power going to the fuel pump. This fuse is represented by a gas pump symbol. Start the car and let it run until it runs out of fuel.

On Cooper models, open the hood and release the two clips holding the fuel rail cover to the fuel rail (green arrows) and pull the cover off.
Figure 2

On Cooper models, open the hood and release the two clips holding the fuel rail cover to the fuel rail (green arrows) and pull the cover off.

Locate the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and remove the black plastic cover (green arrow), just like a bicycle tire.
Figure 3

Locate the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and remove the black plastic cover (green arrow), just like a bicycle tire.

Use a small screwdriver to press the pin in the center of the Schrader valve to relieve any remaining pressure (green arrow).
Figure 4

Use a small screwdriver to press the pin in the center of the Schrader valve to relieve any remaining pressure (green arrow). It's a good idea to have plenty of rags surrounding the screwdriver to absorb any fuel that squirts out.

On Cooper S models, the fuel rail is not as easily accessible.
Figure 5

On Cooper S models, the fuel rail is not as easily accessible. You'll need to remove the intercooler in order to reach it as shown here. Please refer to our article on R53 water pump removal for more info.

Remove the four child seat latch covers in the rear seat of the car (green arrows).
Figure 6

Remove the four child seat latch covers in the rear seat of the car (green arrows). Pull them straight out. It will probably take a little effort to get them out of the seat.

Now pull up on the front edge of the lower seat at either end (green arrows) and take the lower seat out of the car.
Figure 7

Now pull up on the front edge of the lower seat at either end (green arrows) and take the lower seat out of the car.

Shown here are the two plates that allow access both the fuel pump (red arrow) and also the fuel filter (purple arrow) mounted in the fuel tank.
Figure 8

Shown here are the two plates that allow access both the fuel pump (red arrow) and also the fuel filter (purple arrow) mounted in the fuel tank. Both are held on by six 10mm nuts (green arrows). Remove the nuts and carefully pop the cover plates off.

Cover the area around the access cover with plastic sheeting to prevent fuel from spilling all over the inside of the car.
Figure 9

Cover the area around the access cover with plastic sheeting to prevent fuel from spilling all over the inside of the car. It also helps to tape it in place around the holes.

On the fuel pump, begin by releasing the electrical connector.
Figure 10

On the fuel pump, begin by releasing the electrical connector. Pull the locking tab out (green arrow). As you pull, it will detach itself from the fuel pump.

You'll now need to loosen and remove the retaining ring that holds the fuel pump assembly inside the tank.
Figure 11

You'll now need to loosen and remove the retaining ring that holds the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. BMW calls out for a special tool to do this (part #

Shown here is the fuel pump with the retaining ring removed.
Figure 12

Shown here is the fuel pump with the retaining ring removed. You'll now need to carefully pry the upper section part of the fuel pump assembly up and out of the fuel tank along the mating edge (green arrow). Take caution as this part is spring loaded and will probably pop up with some force.

Carefully maneuver the fuel pump so you can access the main pressure line going to the fuel injectors.
Figure 13

Carefully maneuver the fuel pump so you can access the main pressure line going to the fuel injectors. Pop the brown plastic clip off the coupler (green arrow).

Once the brown clip is removed, press the locking tab in (green arrow) and pull the fuel line apart.
Figure 14

Once the brown clip is removed, press the locking tab in (green arrow) and pull the fuel line apart.

Now find the black electrical connector for the fuel level sender and press the two tabs in (green arrows) to disconnect it.
Figure 15

Now find the black electrical connector for the fuel level sender and press the two tabs in (green arrows) to disconnect it.

Now pull the grey fuel return hose (green arrow) up and out of the molded clip on the fuel pump assembly.
Figure 16

Now pull the grey fuel return hose (green arrow) up and out of the molded clip on the fuel pump assembly.

You'll now need to maneuver the fuel pump assembly up and out of the fuel tank.
Figure 17

You'll now need to maneuver the fuel pump assembly up and out of the fuel tank. It will take a bit of time to figure out how it all comes out. You'll need to place it at different angles in order to get everything out.

Be sure that you clear the fuel lever float (green arrow) as you pull the fuel pump assembly out.
Figure 18

Be sure that you clear the fuel lever float (green arrow) as you pull the fuel pump assembly out.

Note the profile edge of the seal in thisPicture (green arrow).
Figure 20

Note the profile edge of the seal in thisPicture (green arrow). You'll want to have the seal in this orientation when fitting the new pump into the tank.

Shown here is a new filter kit for the MINI Cooper/Cooper S.
Figure 21

Shown here is a new filter kit for the MINI Cooper/Cooper S.

Press in the two tabs (green arrows) holding the fuel line into the fuel filter assembly….
Figure 22

Press in the two tabs (green arrows) holding the fuel line into the fuel filter assembly....

….
Figure 23

....and pull the line out.

Now remove the retaining ring with a hammer and flat-head screwdriver.
Figure 24

Now remove the retaining ring with a hammer and flat-head screwdriver.

Next, pull the fuel filter/fuel level sender assembly up enough to access the upper cover (green arrow).
Figure 25

Next, pull the fuel filter/fuel level sender assembly up enough to access the upper cover (green arrow). You'll want to rotate this counter clockwise while holding the lower assembly. Take care not to damage any of the fuel lines or sender parts. Keep in mind it may be difficult to remove the cover. Rotate the cover until you can pull it up and straight off the lower housing. Be prepared for some fuel to spill out.

Once the cover is off, remove the old fuel tank seal (purple arrow) and throw it away.
Figure 26

Once the cover is off, remove the old fuel tank seal (purple arrow) and throw it away. You'll get a new one with the fuel filter kit. Also remove the small O-rings from inside the top cover (green arrow) and also inside the bottom of the filter housing. Pull the old fuel filter (yellow arrow) straight up and out of the filter housing. Don't forget the large O-ring that goes on the outside of the top cover. It will probably be still inside the filter housing.

Place the new filter element inside the filter housing and push it down as far as it will go.
Figure 27

Place the new filter element inside the filter housing and push it down as far as it will go.

Place the new O-rings both inside the filter housing and also the top cover (green arrow).
Figure 28

Place the new O-rings both inside the filter housing and also the top cover (green arrow). Also fit the large O-ring to the outside of the top cover (purple arrow).

Place the new fuel tank seal around the filter housing and re-fit the top cover.
Figure 29

Place the new fuel tank seal around the filter housing and re-fit the top cover. It can only go on one way. Once fitted, carefully, press the filter cover through the seal, making sure all the mating edges are sealed.

Make sure that the tang (green arrow) on the rear of the upper cover fits in between the grooves on the fuel tank (purple arrows).
Figure 30

Make sure that the tang (green arrow) on the rear of the upper cover fits in between the grooves on the fuel tank (purple arrows). Once seated properly, re-fit the retaining ring and re-connect the fuel line.

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Comments and Suggestions:
minimal Comments: Hi,
I have a 2012 mini cooper and just tried to replace the fuel filter today...followed the necessary steps, like disconecting the battery, taking out the back seats, unscrewing the 10mm nuts and after removing the plate that should cover the filter right side there was nothing there, other than the fuel tank.. so this means that it doesn't have a fuel filter? or if the car does have a fuel filter, where is it?
thanks for the help
September 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You checked this article?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI_R56/127-FUEL-Fuel_Filter_Replacement/127-FUEL-Fuel_Filter_Replacement.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
pttrfan1 Comments: Hi, hope you can help. Trying to change fuel pressure sensor on 2010 mini cooper s, but can't seem to find a listing for a part number. Anyway you can help with this? Thank you in advance.
July 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff:
See this article:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI_R56/92-FUEL-Fuel_Rail_Pressure_Sensor_Replacement/92-FUEL-Fuel_Rail_Pressure_Sensor_Replacement.htm


I’m not the best with part numbers.

Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Manu Comments: Hi there,i wonder if you can help. I have bad issues in changing the fuel pump and the fuel filter assembly. It started when my fuel gauge were faulty and gave me false information. I removed the fuel filter assembly and the plastic where the level sensor was mounted-in was broken. Dunno how it could broke on the tank... I replaced it, and next was the fuel pump, the small part when you plug the pipe was broken as you see on the photo. I replaced it and now it's broken again. I diagnosed my car with the tool i have, and it give my the folowing "code P27B2 fuel tank vent min". Do you know how could i fix it?.
Mini cooper S R56 2008/50 000km

Kind regards
June 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It looks like an impact on the fuel pump. There are marks showing this. I would replace it with a new fuel pump module. Also confirm it is not binding when installing and doesn't have excessive stress on the lines. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jesse b Comments: I have a 2009 Mini Cooper s and it runs ok after warm start but cold start it takes a few times, sometimes there is codes sometimes not..it uses quite abit of oil as well but with no visible leaks. Is there any ideas?
May 11, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be an issue with the fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Tido Comments: I have checked spark and fuel system all is in order. another thing is that when the car is running and I switch off the engine it can start immediately on the turn. but once I switch off for more than 5 minutes then it will not start on the 1st turn only after the 3rd turn does it start. don't have any error codes. how do I check fuel injector pulse?
April 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if spark and fuel are present, it has to engine mechanical, timing / compression. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tido Comments: Hi Nick. thanks to you and this guide I have successfully replaced petrol pump and grommets in tappet cover on my 2004 cooper. only problem now is that it does NOT want to start on the first turn. In the morning at 1st start it only swings, on 2nd attempt it starts and idles for half a second and dies off, on 3rd attempt it starts and idles for 1 second and dies off. on 4th attempt it finally starts but on a high rev and then settles down to normal revs after about 4 seconds. I have replaced plugs and checked that all fuses are dry thought it could be an electrical problem. but once vehicle is warmed up then it starts on the first turn. not sure what to do now??? please help
April 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
bill Comments: this is bill. I just wanted to show the ring I was talking about were the fuel filter gos . I didn't put no grease are lube around this seal. im worried that I might have to change this seal .
January 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bill Comments: I put a fuel filter in my 2004 mini cooper s . and I didn't put no grease around the big skinny seal were the filter is .what would happen if that seal is not sealed right. would gas run out past my filter and mess up my fuel injectiors and would the car run bad. it seems to run fine. but it worries me because I don't want to mess any thing up inside the gas tank. please help me.i may have to put another fuel filter in the tank.
January 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There would be a pressure loss if the O-ring didn't seal right. The lube on the O-ring., allows it to slide into place with the cover without friction. If things are working OK, you should be fine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Yellow JCW Comments: While doing the filter change I somehow dislodged the small sleeve and 3 O-rings that live inside the white plastic top of the filter assembly where the fuel line plugs into. I tried to slide them on the end of the fuel line and insert to no avail. Also pinched one in the process. Does anyone have a part number on these? And if I do get new ones, how do they go back in? Very hard to see in there with everything back together except the fuel line. Thanks in Advance MAN DOWN!
December 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That might be part of the assembly, if it didn't come with the filter.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Josée Comments: Bonjour,

I have a mini cooper 2003 R53 and it looks like I will have to change the break line. There is no dealer in my area so I need to go get the size of that line in order to go get one. Merci
December 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Depends on on the line, 3/16 is usually the US size for replacing smaller lines. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Josée Comments: Bonjour,

I have a mini cooper 2003 R53 and it looks like I have to change the fuel line. Would you know the size of that line by any chance. No cooper dealer in my area so I have to get it from a regular shop. Thank you
December 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Depends on on the line, 3/16 is usually the US size for replacing smaller lines. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Byron Comments: Hi there,wonder if you can help. I recently serviced my 2002 Mini Cooper,changed all fuel filter in the tank also. After service,vehicle started fine and ran well for about 20 km,it then stated to jerk a bit,so I thought I was running low on gas,topped up and no difference,it ran a bit then died,started again and drove,then died again,it is since just cranking. Fuel pump is kicking in,but I'm not sure if the pressure is enough,as I am getting no fuel to the rail. Could my fuel pump be to weak to pump to the front? Don't know what to try now
December 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be an issue with the fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
R spear Comments: I have changed injectors spark plugs and fuel filter in pump car will run but no throttle and stumbles alot
November 27, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light on? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ContentGenerator Comments: When starting my R53, I do not hear the fuel pump initiate when putting the key in the ON position which I used to. I think there may be an electrical problem. I've checked the fuses, and they're fine. Before ordering a new fuel pump, how do I check the electrical connections? And if it's a electrical line that might have corroded, what parts would I need to order? Thanks!
November 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When turning the key on, check for power to the fuel pump. If power is present, the fuel pump is faulty.

You won;t know what to order until you determine what is wrong. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
wea Comments: changed filter and pump now no presure at fuel rell what now it wonr start
November 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the seal on filter housing is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Norm Comments: 06 Mini S - Driving yesterday got hot brake or electrical smell but not brakes, all normal on dash, stopped twice and car started and ran normal. Arrived home after dark with rain and when I got out of car there was slight humming sound. Out this AM and found car dead, no remote open, no ignition/dash lights. Put charger on and again the low level hum but seemed mid car not engine area. Could the fuel pump be stuck on? Rain most of the day so hope to get back to it in AM, lift the back seat up and try to isolate where sound is coming from. Disconnected the battery so I could charge it up with nothing running.
October 17, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fuel pump or auxiliary coolant pump may be stuck on. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Buzzard95 Comments: Why drain the gas tank? I thought that a small amount of gas & lots of air in the tank was a more explosive mixture.
October 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: To avoid spilling. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Edd Comments: I have replaced the fuel pump and filter in my '03 Cooper S. Now it will not pressurize. Is there a way to prime it or do you have to?
September 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No priming required. I would assume it is connected incorrectly in the tank. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kevin Comments: I have an 08 mini with the 1.6 dohc non turbo non supercharged and i have an issue i thought was low side fuel. I have 55 psi at the shrader. It is a start/stall issue and when you give it gas hit the pedal it can idle out of it if the rpm is higher. changed air filter, fuel filter is lifetime, and plugs are nice and tan/brown. Thinking its hpp. thoughts?
September 10, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What is fuel volume and how does the quality look? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Andres 1370 Comments: Hello there,
I have got a Mini Cooper S i think that 2007 model from my friend. Yesterday when a I pushed the gas pedal to overpass another cars, a "power loss" alarm comes. Please could you advise if this is related to a possible dirty FO filter?? Few days before, FO hose inlet just rip off from engine and it was necessary to change.
Thanks for your comments.
PS: could you advise FO filter?
August 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be an issue with the throttle housing. I would check the vehicle for fault codes to start. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
drtsarev Comments: Absolutely brilliant article guys, highly recommended!
Just to confirm, the hardest bit was to remove the large metal retaining ring, used a plastic lever to knock them out counter clock wise, knock on the left of the ring, knock on tbe right and after a good 10 minutes it loosens up.
Only one remark, when you put the large seals, the should go first on the housing to lay in nicely and then the cover slides in.
Thank you, thank you, thank you so much!
August 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
BBuchanan Comments: I see talk on other forums about the High Pressure fuel pump. I've looked all over and do not see mention of having one on my 05 Mini S. Can you confirm? Seems like I should have one, But I find no info on ordering or replacing it. Thanks
August 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 2005 models do not have a high pressure (direct injection) fuel pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sergio Comments: I really appreciate what your doing here for us the DIY people. It is amazing..
THANK YOU VERY MUCH..
August 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
guigagonca Comments: Forgot to mention that is a 2011 Cooper S, automatic.
July 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
guigagonca Comments: Congrats on Article.

Can you help me out?

There are 3 symptoms that are showing up, and I think and hope they are related. They don't show up 100% of the time. Actually I would say 1 out of 4/5 runs I feel them. They are almost always showing up together.

1.Sometimes when running, noticed a weird noise. It only appears on 0-30% throttle, and when I quickly press the gas pedal to fullquickly enough to not raise the rpm it stops, and come back shortly. It sounds a lot with a knocking sound.

2. High idling. When at traffic light, I have to press the brakes more than normal to hold the car stopped. If in normal conditions the idle RPM is lower than 1000 looking at the gauge I would say around 700-800, when this symptom shows up it goes as high as 1200-1300. This shows up even when the engine is warm.

3. The last and most annoying is that the doesn't fire up. It cranks but won't start. I noticed that this usually happens when the car is already hot, but not sure if this is related. I always pay attention to the fuel pump starting noise when unlocking the car, and when this happens it doesn't make any noise, but I'm not sure that the pump goes on if the engine is warm probably there is still pressure in fuel line from the last ride. Nice to say that when finally it starts after lots of trying and some minutes waiting it almost stalls 2-3 seconds working hard to keep the idle, as a carburated car would do after refueling an empty tank, but little throttle pumping helps to get into nice idle.

Any ideas?
July 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The knocking noise and brake issue may be the vacuum pump.

The starting issue I need more info. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Norma Comments: Hi. Excellent article. My 2011 CooperS started going in "limp" mode. My Husband changed the fuel filter first. Didn't seem to fix the problem so he replaced the fuel pump. NOT the one in the tank. Seems to run beautifully now but the problem started again tonight on the way home. Had two bars showing of gas and 57 miles till empty. Towed it home and Husband thought he would put some gas in it for grins and that fixed the problem. Did he bump a float or fuel line in the tank that is now giving a faulty reading of empty and if so, how can we fix the problem? Thanks in advance for your time in answering.
July 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking the fuel sending unit. Maybe the float arm was bent during the repair. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Vito Comments: Hey nick I have 2006 Mini Cooper s I run off the fuel and now won't star I check the fuse is geting Fire but is not geting Fire to the fuel pump I jump a wire whit 12 volt and run good you know if have a fuel cut off or a reset fuel pump I look everywhere I can't not f
June 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No reset. You may have ruined the pump running it dry. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Vito Comments: Hey I have 2005 Mini Cooper s standar combertible rum of the gas and know won't star any ideas what s going up let me know if some body have the same problem
June 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty fuel pump.

I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
sholz Comments: Hi can I just open up the fuel pump assy and change the pump inside?
June 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don;t know of a replacement part.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Martin Comments: Hi, I've got a 2002 R53 Cooper S with 108k miles. I'm having a strange problem with gradual acceleration in lower gears 2-4. The power delivery is not smooth and it is 'stuttering'. This happens with about half to two thirds of pressing the throttle. However when using full throttle the power curve is smooth with great acceleration and no stuttering. I have changed spark plugs, ht leads, air filter and MAP sensor. The car engine now sounds much smoother however the stuttering that u get when climbing the rev range under partial throttle is even more pronounced!
Any ideas what this might be? Another forum said it could be the fuel filter, what do you think? Cheers
June 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light on? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Leeners Comments: Hello, I have a 2003 Cooper S and came back from a business trip where the car was in a parking lot for 4 days with lots of rain. Started the car as usual and it ran for about 10 seconds then stopped. Tried starting again and it would not turnover. Tried starting the next day same thing, ran a few seconds and stopped and could not start again. A towing company came to pick it up but the driver tried a few things first and what he tried last was he had the key turned in the ignition and he got under the back of the car and hammered around the gas tank then told me to get in and start the car...it revved right up! Really nice of him to help and not get charged for a costly tow! Drove home fine and days later same thing again and now I have hammered it and it starts right up. This loosens sediment in the line so it can get gas? Does this mean I need a new fuel pump? What might something like this cost? Single income with no extra cash flow....bummer : Thank you for all your help!!
May 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a faulty fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
gary Comments: What is the labor time involved in a 2006 Mini Cooper R53 fuel filter change? People on NAM state an hour for the time involved. My independent German car mechanic is quoting me $325 for the labor only, which equates to about 3+ hours. Which time frame for the fuel filter replacement is more accurate?
May 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have a labor guide. Call a few shops. Try a few places to get an idea of the average time it takes. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: I have a 2011 Cooper S Convertible with 72k miles. Does it have two fuel pumps, or just one? I see references to a high pressure pump up on the engine, and to a BMW-style fuel pump inside the fuel tank. If just one pump, which reference is correct? If there are two assemblies and I am having fuel pump problems, do I replace both? I am already planning to replace the fuel filter
April 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: S models have an in tank and a high pressure pump on the engine.

Here is a video I made showing how to test them both.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfAyti805GE - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Dorothy Comments: My 05 mini cooper stalled on me as I came to a complete stop. I change the filter and pump the engine still won't start. Also my car keeps saying I need a new gas cap. Does this have to do anything with the pressure?
April 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That message is due to a loose or missing gas cap.

I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Rob Comments: A very helpful article! One thing, though - the gaskets for the sending unit and fuel pump should be fitted to the opening of the tank rather than to the pump or unit. They're really tough to reinstall otherwise.
February 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I agree, thanks for the feedback and input. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Stot31 Comments: I have a 2006 Cooper S, i already change the fuel pump, and now the problem is that it dont start in the girst try, you have to try angain and again until in the fourth or fifth try it start, once on the car works great, any sugestion!
January 17, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Scottie Comments: Thanks fitted the Pump and Filter ok ...fiddly but all went well. One Question does the ECU need reprogramming or anything else required to be done the car seems to run well enough.
December 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not when replacing a fuel pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Drofenal Comments: I replaced the fuel pump and my MINI ran great for 2 weeks then it died again, same problems as before. It happened after I filled the gas tank up. Could it be the gas? Or a faulty gas pump? This is the second time this has happened. Im wondering if I should fill the tank up all the way or a little over 3/4.
December 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you confirmed the fuel pump is faulty? I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
lowpuller Comments: My 2010, R57 I think, has cold start issues. After it has been sitting for several hours upon starting it idles very rough, the accelerator is even non responsive. It a few seconds of this the check engine light cones on. If I shut down and retry, car starts perfect and runs great. Codes on CEL reveal misfire. Mini recommended carbon cleaning, which I had done, but it made no difference. If anything the problem is worse? Thanks for any suggestions you have.
December 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be fuel delivery issue or base engine problem. It sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Xmun Comments: Hello,
I recently changed the fuel pump on a 2002 Mini Cooper S R50 I believe . Although the pump works fine, the gauge won't go below the one quarter mark. When I partially remove the pump from the tank and manually move the arm, the gauge does move through its full deflection. Could there be an issue with the sender unit, or did I install something wrong ?
Thank you
November 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The sender may be jammed in the tank. Check if the fuel pump is orientated correctly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bayo Comments: My 2005 mini cooper S will run perfectly for about 30-45 minutes then go off. It will always restart but never runs more than 5 minutes each time until it is left to cool for about 30 minutes, then the sequence starts again. Temperature gauge is normal. i just replaced the fuel filter.
November 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could very well be a fuel pump, or an engine sensor. I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Drofenal Comments: I was driving my 2004 mini cooper, slowed down and down shifted, then it started "choking" and sputtering. It finally died in a parking lot. I tried starting it several times and it acted like it was barely getting gas. Now, it acts like it is getting no gas. Replaced the filter still nothing. Last resort is a fuel pump? Could it be anything else?
November 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
alex Comments: I just replace my fuel pump on my minni Cooper S and the fuel filter i connect everything back in the car didn't start it looks like no gas is going through the engine the pump sounds like it's working any idea
November 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check your connections. A seal in the fuel sender may be leaking, not allowing fuel to flow to the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BigGunz Comments: Fuel filter change. Everything went well. Man that cover is a beast to get off! The filter was extremely dirty too. 147K on the original filter to the best of my knowledge.
November 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
RKsCooper Comments: 2003 Cooper S, 158k. Developed a hummmm from what appears to be the fuel tank area. Contemplating changing the fuel pump to cure the problem before further issues. Is this something that should proceed with? No other symptoms of fault.
November 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A hum is a sign of a struggling pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
romz Comments: Great write up! I have an r53 mc. It went to the dealership they replaced the fuel pump but know when I drive past half a tank I loose fuel pressure and the car stalls. Wont start up no more fuel pressure has filter changed with pump they cant figure it out I need to any tips will help. Thanks.
October 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The siphon jet pump may be faulty or be partially detached. Or an issue with a sealing O-ring or line inside the tank. Ask them to remove what they installed and inspect each component. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bingote Comments: Hello! I can't remove the plates, they feel like glued, i don't want to try too hard before confirmation. Are they supossed to be glued or something like that? Do I need to have something extra to glue them back when i'm done? Should I just try harder? Mine is an 09 R57. Thank you.
October 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The access covers? Try levering them up using a plastic prying tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
The Dude Comments: My Mini 2007 S my mini is loosing fuel pressure in about 4-6hrs of sitting making it hard to start There is no fault indicator coming on as well. Replaced the fuel pump to fix it but that didn't seem to work, is there any problem areas to check that might cause the drop in pressure?
September 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Which fuel pump did you replace and where are you performing your fuel pressure test (connection point)? How are you activating the fuel pump to test it? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jon_Chaps Comments: I have a 2003 Mini Cooper S R53 I've just recently started having problems check engine light on drives good for a bit feels like it stalls and rpm goes down to 2000 rpm and EML light turns on and DCS light too ac stops working and engine over heats
August 24, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system will not hold pressure and there are no external leaks the head gasket may be faulty.

Then check the vehicle for fault codes. If multiple systems are not working properly, fault codes will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
nighthack Comments: Hi , my 2004 mini basic started making a weird clicking sound when driving , it stops when i press on the clutch and starts the sound again when the clutch ism let go, the frequency of the clicking speeds up when i accelerate, any ideas?
August 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There may be an issue with the pressure plate in the clutch. Does the noise happen at idle with the engine in park? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jason Comments: 2006 Cooper S stalled while stopped at idle on the highway. Car wouldn't restart for about 10 minutes. Did some searching online and someone with the same problem said their issue was the "main electrical relay was overheating causing the fuel pump to cut off. Replacing the relay solved the problem." Does this sound like a plausible problem/solution? Thank you.
August 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I see quite a few fuel pumps fail. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jeff Comments: My 2006 mini cooper base model is having a weird transmission issue. It seems to not lock out in 6th gear anymore. It will run at 3500rpm at speeds from 45mph to 75mph. Need to know what I may have to replace if anybody knows.
August 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hard to say without having some testing performed. This is too critical of a component to take chances on. First check the transmission fluid level to be sure it is correct. Then check the transmission ECM for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Kato Comments: I have a 2002 base mini wife ran it out of gas .so I put so gas in it .still wouldn't start .banged on the fuel tank car started but only ran 50 miles now no fuel to the rail . Could this be the fuel pump or some kind of relay .please help
August 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fuel pump may have been damaged from running it low on fuel. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality. If the test shows incorrect delivery, check power and ground to the pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ducati Pilot Comments: I just purchased from Pelican and changed the fuel pump and the superseded fuel filter assembly in my 02/02 build R50. Thanks to your excellent step-by-step instructions, the install went great. However, when I completed the project, checked for leaks, and filled the tank the gauge now only shows 3/4 when completely topped up. Does the new complete fuel filter module replacement do this in the early build cars, or did I possibly route the hoses incorrectly, obstructing the full travel of the float level sender up top? I'm quite sure the level sending rods were not bent during installation. And why does both the fuel pump AND the new filter module assembly have float level senders? Which one actually sends the level to the gauge?Thanks again. Your site is a fantastic resource!
July 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The sending unit should be on the left side. YOu may have bent the arm when installing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Russ Comments: Hey, Nick- 2002 Mini Base Hatchback 5 speed. 2 weeks ago, the fuel pump would not engage at start-up. I tried it the next day, fuel pump hummed and started fine. Now it is happening again fuel pump won't run only I am unable to "wake up" the pump. I have replaced the relay and checked fuses.

Is there a way to electrically check the 6 pins on the pump plug? Which ones are supposed to be hot when I turn the ignition on? Right now, on the female side of the plug, the black/red wire with yellow dots is hot when I turn on the ignition, but doesn't go dead when I turn it off. Same with black/red wire with white dots. They must time out after a while?
I want to put 12 volts to the pump to check it, but don't know which pins to power. Thanks!
July 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: white/blue is power, brown is ground. I would grab a repair manual to be sure these colors match your vehicle.
Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Sha Comments: Hello. I have a 2004 Mini base. I'm trying to replace the fuel pump with a VDO replacement pump but I cant quite determine where all of the hoses are supposed to hook up. The gray line is still connected to a piece from the old fuel pump. Do I remove the piece and connect it where you had the gray hose? There are also 2 other hoses: a black and a brown. I appreciate any feedback you can give me.
June 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are you replacing the fuel pump module or just the fuel pump? Just remove the old fuel pump, then reattach the hoses in the same orientation you removed them from. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ducatiorourke Comments: Are there any clips or anything that would attach the fuel lines to the tank itself internally? Had an accident with my Clubman, ran over something big, compressed the tank enough to smash my pump. I found pieces of white plastic in the tank that I can't identify as part of the pump or filter housings when compared to the new parts. Thanks.
June 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The lines have clips and the sending unit. The lines are molded, so something may have broken. You may want to inspect the lines and inside the tank before ordering parts. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jsantllan13 Comments: The fuel gauge is not reading correctly. What could be causing this problem? It will not drop below 1/2 or rise above 3/4. The computer is reading consumption and the gauge works to a point.
May 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A faulty sending unit could cause this. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
hoser Comments: I have a 2008 JCW mini. Engine cranks but no start. No 12v during cranking at intank fuel pump wiring. Applied 12v to fuel pump directly and pump ran fine. Fuel pump fuse is ok. Does this have a fuel pump relay? Still need to check spark, fuel pressure etc..Thanks!
April 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The wiring shows a relay in the junction box (JBE). Powered by fuse F43. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kosta909 Comments: Hello! Thanks for all the info here! I have a question...
I have a Mini 1.6 2002, with CVT, I have replaced 3 times over the years It starts in the morning like a champ. Later in the day its slow to start. After a few moments turning over, it will start, and sort of tries to find proper idle for a few moments. Replaced battery and spark plugs... does this sound like a fuel related problem? thaks so much for any input!
April 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be fuel. Your going to want to check fuel pressure in the morning to see if it is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Checked mini Comments: When it ran it was fine. smooth idle, rev fine. turned it off then would not restart. fuel pump fuse blown and pump locked up.
March 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Likely something in the tank. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
checked mini Comments: Tank is clean. car only ran for about two min after 2nd new fuel pump.the first replacment pump worked for one day. could I be getting voltage spike?
March 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unlikely. voltage cannot go higher than charging system, other components would be damaged too. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
checked mini Comments: I have a 2003 r53 142000 mi. fuel pump locked up. replaced it. new one locked up after one hour. replaced it. this one locked up after two min. no trash in tank. replaced filter at same time. any ideas on why pump keeps locking up?
March 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does the vehicle run OK when the pump is first replaced? Could be something mixed with the fuel, causing it to fail. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
steveis here Comments: hi i have a mini 2002 r50 it has been parked up for 2 years outside charged the battery and tried to start it it turns over no problem but no start fuel was very low maybe empty, put in 1 gallon put the fuel doesn't seem to be getting to the engine what could this be?
March 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mango Comments: Hi I have a standard Mini Cooper 53 reg it's drive fine all day then when I
Come to start it again after been in shop it started but then died and will not start now any ideas ???
March 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
chronic-J Comments: i want to upgrade my 2004 mini cooper 1.6 engine just tell me what can i do coz i want it to me be more faster?
February 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can start by adding exhaust and intake bolt-ons. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part kit. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Waldo Comments: I have a base model 2008 mini cooper r56 hardtop, I have great fuel pressure during idle and throttle up and down, the pressure drops maybe 8psi overnight, problem seems to be fuel pump doesnt prime before starting, checked electrical connections, fuses, etc. I have to throttle it when starting to get it started, once it is running it runs great and will idle after startup, but always have to throttle it on start up to get it running, starts and immediately dies if not, why is the pump not priming? please help.
February 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you monitored pressure when cranking? It may be a worn pump, that takes a moment to build pressure. Instead of starting it right away. Cycle the key a few times while monitoring fuel pressure, does the pressure build to spec? Does it start normally? If so, the pump is weak. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
minicooper Comments: Does anything affect a new fuel pump Brocken from the cup?
I Bought the fuel pump by internet and maybe ups just didn't carried right so it came with a little crack in top of the cup where the battery connector is at and the ground terminal.
January 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it is cracked, I would get a replacement. It sounds like it was damaged during shipping. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mellow yellow mini me Comments: 09 R56. Light acceleration between 2 and 3k rpms I get slight miss/shutter from engine also when it sits for 8 hours or so, I get an extended crank. Noticed if I'm sitting at a stop light and tap the throttle quickly, the idle drops down and runs rough, then slowly comes back up. Does this sound like a fuel pump or ignition issue. Sound like fuel to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
December 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff:
I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jaimie Comments: Hey Nick, do you need to reprogram anything after changing the filter as i've heard the fuel pump needs to be told that a new filter has been fitted. Is this true?
November 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not on an R50 model. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kevin Comments: sorry nick I mean the fuel filter assembly when I released the filter it would not reseat back into position cheers kevin
November 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would match up the old and new filters to be they are are the same. Then double check that the new filter is dropping far enough into the holder. You may have to push down on it to get it to seat. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kevin Comments: having trouble seating fuel pump back into the tank it seems to be sitting on something 05 mini cooper s cheers kevin
November 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Remove the pump and look into the tank. This way you can check if there is something stopping it from going in. If the pump slides into the tank, and stops, try gently rotating it. If it is hung up on the seal, apply a small amoutn of dish soap to the seal. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Kelvin Comments: Respected Nick,

Very informative and thank you for writing something so detailed like this. My question is that do you need to change fuel pump Feeding unit as shown in pictures along with Filter when you do it? Or can you just change a fuel filter and use the pre-installed fuel pump. Would it effect the car or performance or fuel pumping behaviour in anyway? Also do i need to replace levelling sensors while carrying out this procedure? Can you kindly confirm? Thanks!
November 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can exchange just he filer. I would replace the sealing o-rings as well. The sending unit should not have to be replaced if it is is good condition. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ChrisT Comments: Hey Nick, Great Guide. I am planning to go to a mechanic for doing this. The only worry i have got that i bought the fuel filter kit from normal car parts shop and not from a dealer directly. Its same as yours called Vaico. Do you recommend me to use this or get a new one from dealer directly.
I am worried that after going all through that and if it doesnt work right i will have to get one again from dealer and go through all of the process again. What do you suggest? Is VAICO a reliable brand? If i used VAICO how long after would i need to change. Kindly advise. Thanks in Advance. Regards.
November 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The Vaico filter will be fine. Consider it a factory equivalent. You would want to change it at the same interval as the MINI filter. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Linmaster Comments: Hi Nick

Long story -- I have an issue with my Mini Cooper 2007 R56 150k km mileage. It has had this problem a month after replacing the clutch, but it seems to get worse now. Most of the time it starts successfully but sometimes it just cranks forever and not start, I push the stop button then it shows yellow steering lock warning light with exclamation mark for few seconds and immediately shows yellow cruise control light with exclamation mark. Eventually, it would start successfully and shows yellow engine malfunction light. Sometimes it cuts while driving and shows the same warning lights.

A month ago i took it to one BMW dealer, they could not find the problem on diagnosis. So they did full service spark plugs, oil, brake fluid, air filter. Took it to another BMW dealer a few weeks ago, they replaced themostart and some oxygen sensor, whole job for $800. The same day after getting back my car, still has both starting and cutting issue. Took it back to them the following day, they still can't diagnose the problem. The car is not storing any faults they say. And they don't think it's the fuel pump. Anyone had similar problems before? Please help guys, I reli don't know what to do now.
October 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If your vehicle has an electronic steering lock (ELV), it could be faulty causing the no start. This is what it sounds like is going on with your vehicle. Of course you are going to have to scan the vehicle using a MINI scan tool. If the ELV is faulty, there will be a fault code stored. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dannyman365 Comments: Hi I took the engine out of my 52 plate mini one auto so I could paint it in the engine bay and I have put it all back together and it's turning over but not starting help please
October 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff:
If your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.

Once you figure out what is missing you can address that component. Before digging too deep I would check that you didn't leave something unplugged, for example the crankshaft sensor. Or possibly a ground wire was left off. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
max Comments: Replaced the fuel pump and filter. Now thw car isn't getting any fuel pressure? any ideas?
October 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fuel pump is likely not connected properly. There could be an issue with the wiring where the pump is not turning on, or a problem with a hose connection, allowing fuel pressure to bleed off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Narelle Comments: Hi,
Does the 2009 Mini Cooper D R56 have a Fuel additive reservoir which needs to be topped up. If so where is it located and what additive do you recommend. Thanks
October 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't have that model is the US. However, I don't think you have a Urea tank. To be sure, check your owners manual. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Cranny Comments: Mini Cooper S 56 2010. Had 2 HP fuel pumps, 2 sets injectors, 2 water pumps and now standard fuel pump is gone. They reckon its also blown "fuse box assembly". Does anyone think this is a Lemon?2 months out of warranty and $3k to repair. Any suggestions?
October 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Common issues hardly make a car a lemon. However, I have seen faulty in tank fuel pumps that create issues with the high pressure pump. If yours was failing, it may have affected the high pressure pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jo Jo 72 Comments: Hi the engine malfunction light came on my daughters Mini Cooper d 2007 phoned mini emergency who picked it up yesterday later the guy dealing with it phoned and said it need 4 new tyres run flats and the malfunction light had not showed up on the computer when plugged in!!!!! Receive a voicemail this morning saying it needs a new fuel pump which they will fit has still under warranty but we will have to pay price for fuel filter has that isn't a serviceable part also it has a oil leak and they will do that under warranty too fuel filter price £111.00 really think I'm being ripped off well my daughter is especially when they 1st assumed it was the tyres ......plz advise
October 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would imagine they saw the tires were worn out and that is why they suggested them, That is easy enough to confirm on your own. As far as the fuel filter costing you, it is a maintenance item, so it would not be covered under warranty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
gsmetz Comments: Hi Nick .
I think 95% that I have solved the problem with my mini cooper Automatic transmission fault jumping through gears , one thing was it did not have the right oil in it and there was only 1.8L in the transmission so I changed the oil as per my manual book and took it for a drive I done 160Ks and did not have any problems , so good so far , next thing ill do is change the filter and oil then a test drive should be O/K , thankyou for your assistance Nick .
September 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the new info and the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Randy Comments: Awesome article. Replaced the pump, still have a leak-down issue after sitting causing long crank starts. Does that pressure line from the brown connector go directly to the injector rail? Does the pump draw from the filter or push through it? I see two lines in the bottom of the filter housing. What are they? I see three lines under the car; pressure, vent and? I thought it was a non-return system. I need to back track to check for leaks. Can I put less than 52 PSI air to the fuel line under the hood and check for leaks? I assume the check valve can handle that?
September 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: DO NOT blow compressed air into your fuel tank. The air and fuel combined create a very dangerous situation, a fire or explosion could occur from a small spark.

The fuel outlet comes out of the fuel filter housing, then to the fuel rail. The fuel pump is used in conuction with a siphon jet pump to keep the tank level equal on both sides. The fuel pressure regulator is mounted to the bottom of the filter housing.

The other lines on the tank are for EVAP emissions.

You will have to determine if the pressure loss is at the fuel pump or fuel rail. If it is at the fuel tank side, you could have a bad O-ring, line or check valve. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
gsmetz Comments: I am having problem with my mini cooper R56 chilli year 2007 hatchback automatic gear box , when I go to pass a truck or car on the HWY , and you put your foot down the gears go every where say from 6th to 2nd in one hit , put it this way , it jumps through the gears only going down through the gears very frustrating . When you are at a set of lights and take off and the car go,s straight from say 4th gear to 2nd just jumps every where , I checked the oil in the auto trans and it is ok . I took it to BMW twice and on the way to both BMW service centres the car stopped doing it , even took the Mechanic with me for a test drive and the car would not do it, I felt like kicking the car . What should I do ? .Bmw say they have tested it and cannot find any faults .
Regards gsmetz
September 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It sounds like you have worn clutches or a fluid pressure / volume issue. Unfortunately, if the problem is not consistent enough for the shop to diagnose, you're going to have to wait until it is. Intermittent issues can be tough to pinpoint, and they are not going to want to guess at a transmission issue. As the wrong diagnosis can be costly for everyone. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
gsmetz Comments: should I change out the timing chain and guides at 100,000 Ks on my mini cooper R56 chilli , year 2007 , hatchback ?
Even so , if it is in good condition should I change the timing chain and guide out anyway ? Is it recommended by BMW Mini to change it out at 100,000 Ks ?
September 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The engine used in your vehicle has a tendancy to stretch the timing chain. Especially if the engine oil is run low a few times. If you are performing routine maintenance or repairs related to the timing chain and guides, I would replace them. If the chain is not noisy, it maynot be necessary. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rich Comments: Why does this happen? - I have a suspect pump and/or filter

Take the upper cover and carefully line up the tabs on it it can only go in one way with the tabs on the lower filter housing. Take care to make sure the upper cover is directly seated on the filter element. If it isn’t, the car won’t start.
August 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it is not lined up, there will be an internal leak int he fuel tank, along with a drop or loss of fuel pressure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Patrick Comments: I got a 07 mini s wont start checked fuel pump working fine good pressure
Not timing checked that also had bad gas once drained fuel and was fine car wouldn't start week later changed the plugs still nothing but warning over hood of car shows 31000 mile service reset it and it still shows also disconnected all power for a day still nothing ready to walk to mini and strangle someone 7405419050 if u have any good answer for me thanks never buying another BMW product i also have a 525i anti thieft is a joke and bmw knows it my cat sets off the silent alarm and renders car inoperable untill relearn procedure is done lol no more bmw they should have needed a bail out I'm sure if enough pple gt 2 get her we can collapse bmw forever all minis should b recalled along with 525s amongst alot of others another way to rape the public
August 8, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. It would also be a good idea to perform a full vehicle scan using a MINI scan tool.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
Freddy Comments: Hi I have a mini one 2003 and its leaking from the top from the green connector. Do you know what I can do to stop it from leaking? I found a used connector it stayed for some time then it just clicked out. Do I need a new pipe or a new filter assy? I have attached the photo from your website to show you the green connector

Thanks Freddy
July 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the fuel line looks OK, the O-ring inside the fuel sender is likely leaking. You will have to replace the fuel sending unit. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jet NK_E85 Comments: Many thanks. It's very helpful DIY. I can monitor fuel pump and filter when I change fuel to E85.
July 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Robwej Comments: Thanks for the excellent DIY. We change the fuelpump in less Tham 30 min.
//Robert & Weijo
July 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You're welcome and good work - Nick at Pelican Parts  
r53mini Comments: I'm replacing the pump with a Walbro unit. wonder if you think the pump inlet should sit down on the tube attached to screen at bottom of pump housing? The OEM pump seems to have two inlets on the bottom: one that draws thru the tube bypasses screen, and another that draws perhaps thru the screen.
July 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should not be an line that bypasses the screen. This could be the pick up tube from the other side of the tank since it is a saddle tank design - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Paul Comments: Great write up! Ordered Pump and filter from Pelican Parts.
Note, I had to use original seals for fuel filter.
July 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Peter Comments: After my question yesterday, I noticed a smell and looked into the filter and found it wet with fuel. I'm now looking into the seals at the top of the filter housing where the fuel line goes in.

Are these O-rings replaceable? That is, are the little O-rings relaceable that go around the plastic fuel line fitting and are located inside the white plastic lid.
May 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Depending on what is leaking, you may be able to service the O-ring or the entire fuel line.
Drop our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Peter Comments: My Mini is slow to fire. Letting the fuel pump cycle a few times seems to allow it to light off first time. Is there a check valve on the fuel pump that can be replaced? Is there a check valve at the pressure regulator?
May 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The check valve is built into the fuel pump. You can test is by checking fuel pressure, then allowing system to sit under pressure while you monitor it. It should hold pressure with the key off.


Drop our sales department a call at 1-888-280-7799 they can get you a repair manual with the test included. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ted Comments: Great write up but have question about filter replacement. On Figure 24, it says to use hammer/flathead to remove. Does it screw in or do you pry it out?
May 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: In firgure 23: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/17-FUEL-Fuel_Pump_and_Filter_Replacement/images_small/Pic23.JPG You can see the retaining ring still in place. It unscrews in a counterclockwise direction.

The ring is already removed in firgure 24.

Once the ring is off, the fuel pump module will pull stright up.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JOHN Comments: can i add a fuel filter under the hood near the motor my mini 50 runs good at higer rpm but rough at idle engin lite shows #4 CYL HAS SOME ELEC PROBEM TKS
May 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the filter is properly mounted it shouldn't be an issue to add one. However, fuel supply problems generally do not show up at idle and not off idle. I would look for other causes for your problems also. Vacuum leak, ignition issue, etc.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
purdyman Comments: just ead this and it is great that this is available for all to read and thanks for that
December 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
albert314 Comments: Hey - many thanks for this guide. I had changed my fuel filter and could not get my car started. Then I saw your note about the need to carefully assemble the upper & lower filter housing "...or the car will not start". I needed something this direct and I got it. Thanks again.
July 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem, glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Max Comments: Is there no need to bleed the fuel line after reassembly? R53 Cooper S
June 14, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, the fuel system will work the air out of the system in a few seconds when you first crank the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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