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Pelican Technical Article:

Engine Air Filter Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$20 to $60

Talent:

*

Tools:

T25 Torx driver, E14, 16mm wrench, rags

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz GL320 (2007-09)
Mercedes-Benz GL450 (2007-14)
Mercedes-Benz GL550 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz GL63 AMG (2013-14)

Parts Required:

New air filters

Hot Tip:

Wipe down the inside of the airbox

Performance Gain:

If the old filter is really dirty, you'll pick up some power

Complementary Modification:

Change cabin air filter

Every 10,000 miles or so, you should change the two engine air filters in your Mercedes-Benz GL450. The air filters protect the air intake system, valves, pistons, cylinder walls, and engine oil from dust and debris that can be sucked in under normal operation. Replacement is a snap and should take you under an hour even the first time you do it.

There are two engine covers on the GL450 along with two air ducts that you will need to remove to change the air filters. You will also need to disconnect one side of the strut cross brace.

With the hood open you can see the two engine covers, the front one (red arrow) that comes off for just about any job and the rear one (yellow arrow) that also contains the air filters.
Figure 1

With the hood open you can see the two engine covers, the front one (red arrow) that comes off for just about any job and the rear one (yellow arrow) that also contains the air filters. There are also two air ducts that you will need to remove (green arrows).

To remove the front cover simply grasp it at the front and lift it straight up (red arrow).
Figure 2

To remove the front cover simply grasp it at the front and lift it straight up (red arrow).

This photo illustrates two of the clips of the underside of the cover (red arrows).
Figure 3

This photo illustrates two of the clips of the underside of the cover (red arrows). The metal clips can weaken over time and can easily be replaced just by pulling them off and pushing new ones on.

There are two plastic air ducts, one on each side.
Figure 4

There are two plastic air ducts, one on each side. To remove the ducts compress the plastic duct towards the front of the car (red arrow) and slide it off the rear engine cover. These are just friction fits and do not have fasteners.

With the duct off the engine cover pull it out from the front grille (red arrow) and remove it from the engine bay.
Figure 5

With the duct off the engine cover pull it out from the front grille (red arrow) and remove it from the engine bay. The other duct (yellow arrow) is removed in the same fashion.

Pull the hose from the air pump off the right side of the rear engine cover (red arrow).
Figure 6

Pull the hose from the air pump off the right side of the rear engine cover (red arrow). There is a clip on the very back of the cover that you need to reach in and release (yellow arrow). You can just use your hand to push it back off the cover.

To remove the rear engine cover you will need to move the strut tower cross brace (red arrow).
Figure 7

To remove the rear engine cover you will need to move the strut tower cross brace (red arrow).

Unclip the two clips on the air box on the right rear of the engine bay (red arrows).
Figure 8

Unclip the two clips on the air box on the right rear of the engine bay (red arrows).

With the clips undone pull the box up and out (red arrow).
Figure 9

With the clips undone pull the box up and out (red arrow).

On the right side strut tower you are going to remove one of the nuts and bolts (red arrow) and just loosen the other (yellow arrow).
Figure 10

On the right side strut tower you are going to remove one of the nuts and bolts (red arrow) and just loosen the other (yellow arrow). Use an E14 socket and 16mm wrench for this job.

Use the E14 and 16mm wrench and remove both nuts and bolts from the left side mount (red arrows).
Figure 11

Use the E14 and 16mm wrench and remove both nuts and bolts from the left side mount (red arrows).

You can now lift up the left side of the brace enough to lift the rear cover up and out from underneath it (red arrow).
Figure 12

You can now lift up the left side of the brace enough to lift the rear cover up and out from underneath it (red arrow).

With the cover removed you can see the clip that attaches to the rear of the cover (red arrow).
Figure 13

With the cover removed you can see the clip that attaches to the rear of the cover (red arrow). Do not forget to reattach this when reinstalling.

Place the cover upside down on your work bench with a couple of rags under it to protect it from getting scratched.
Figure 14

Place the cover upside down on your work bench with a couple of rags under it to protect it from getting scratched. The two air filters are located one on each side (red arrows).

Use a T25 Torx and remove the four Torx screws on each air filter housing (red arrows, two shown).
Figure 15

Use a T25 Torx and remove the four Torx screws on each air filter housing (red arrows, two shown). The screws will not unscrew all the way out from the housing lid. This is also a good time to check the condition of the mounts in the lid that attach to the rubber mounts on the engine (yellow arrow).

Remove the old filters and be sure to clean out the air boxes.
Figure 16

Remove the old filters and be sure to clean out the air boxes. You do not want to put a clean air filter in a dirty air box. Installation is the reverse of removal.







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Comments and Suggestions:
peaybe Comments: I have a 2008 GL320 CDI, but the engine layout looks quite different. Please look at the shape of the filter in the last picture looks like a plain rectangle and compare it to the two filters shown under the image of a 2008 GL320 CDI on the left box the filters have different thickness in the two halves. Looking forward to your comments. Thanks.
October 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your model may have a different style intake air housing due to space restrictions. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Nacho Comments: Went through this procedure on a 2011 GL550. Have to say it was spot on and super helpful. Thanks for the effort to put it together.
June 21, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ed Wolcott Comments: I have a 2014 350 Bluetec GL and the procedure is quite a bit different.
March 25, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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Page last updated: Fri 12/2/2016 02:57:21 AM