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Brake Pedal Switch Replacement / Clutch Pedal Switch Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Brake Pedal Switch Replacement / Clutch Pedal Switch Replacement

Time:

30 min

Tab:

$20 to $50

Talent:

**

Tools:

Screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Porsche 986 Boxster (1997-04)
Porsche 986 Boxster S (2000-04)
Porsche 987 Boxster (2005-08)
Porsche 987 Boxster S (2005-08)

Parts Required:

New pedal switches

Hot Tip:

Twist the old switch to remove it

Performance Gain:

Working brake lamps, cruise control

Complementary Modification:

Install aftermarket pedals
101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster. The book contains 312 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 950+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any Boxster owner's collection. The book is currently available and in stock now. See The Official Book Website for more details.

There are three pedal switches on the Boxster, two on the clutch pedal and one on the brakes. The brake and clutch pedal switches get a lot of use, and they all have a tendency to fail once and a while. Replacement is really easy, and should take only about 30 minutes.

For the brake switch, the first step is to verify that your brake lamps are not working. If you're by yourself, then wait until nighttime and back up against a brick wall. You should see the reflection off of the wall when you step on the brakes - if you don't, then your switch is probably shot. It's important to note that the switch has redundancy built-in and the warning system should tell you when your switch is failing, but this doesn't always work.

The clutch pedal has two switches, although I'm not quite sure why. One switch controls the cruise control (turns it off when you push in the clutch), and the other won't let you start the car without the clutch pedal pushed in. If you're having intermittent starting problems with your car, I would look at this switch first.

Curious, but the cruise control switch is identical to the brake pedal switch except that the cruise control switch is red, and the brake pedal switch is a translucent brown. Both switches have three of the same the same part numbers printed on them.

The switches are relatively easy to access, as they are located right above the pedals. You will have to open the driver's side door and then stick your head into the foot well to see them. Replacement is easy: simply unplug the harness from the end and then twist to remove the switch. If you need to manhandle and/or break the switch to remove it, that's perfectly okay, since you will be replacing it with a new one very soon anyways. The clutch pedal switch that prevents the car from starting is a standard microswitch mounted with screws.

To finish the job, simply install the new switch into place, and reconnect the wire harness. Test the brake lights to make sure that they are working properly, and then reinstall the knee panel.

Here are the two clutch pedal switches.
Figure 1

Here are the two clutch pedal switches. The yellow arrow points to the microswitch that prevents the car from starting if you don't have the pedal pushed in. The red switch is the one that deactivates the cruise control when you push the clutch in.

Here's a photo of the brake pedal switch (green arrow).
Figure 2

Here's a photo of the brake pedal switch (green arrow). Simply unplug the harness, twist the switch, and then remove it from the chassis. The lower left inset photo shows the brake and cruise control switches together. The only difference between these two is the color of the housing.

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Comments and Suggestions:
bern Comments: I replaced the lockout switch on the clutch on my 09 987.2. I did not have to remove the bracket. Just unplugged the two leads, then a T10 torx on the switch screw. About a 10 minute job once you know/see where the switch and screw are. The screw head is above/behind the front lead. In photo, screw actually goes in the other hole - this is just for photo
September 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JanW Comments: I've got a 2000 Boxster. When I had it inspected this morning, the brake lights weren't working. After trolling several sights, this one included I figured that I didn't have anything to loose to try and clean the contacts. Thanks for the picture. It was helpful to confirm what I was looking at. I would agree with Dan K, that it wasn't as easy as the article implies if you have large hands. After reading this and other forums, I successfully pulled out the break switch out but I had to carefully use a wrench to help be twist the switch or I would not have been able to twist it the 90 degrees. I carefully cleaned the contacts and put it back it and the brake lights were good to go! I called my Porsche mechanic back and left a message on this Labor Day Weekend that I wouldn't be needing his services after the holiday. That was a great feeling! I've ordered a new switch just in case the "fix" doesn't last but for now we're back on the road!!
September 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JMphoto Comments: I have a 2010 Cayenne S v8, which cranks s l o w l y. But sometimes it cranks normal speed.

It seems to be related to foot position and pressure on brake pedal matters. 150,000 miles on it. Is never cranks unless you press pedal. Is it possible brake pedal interlock relates to starter cranking speed.
July 9, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Pressing the brake pedal is part of the starting procedure. It is possible the brake switch connection is intermittent causing the starter to engage then disengage. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bruce Comments: Forgot to mention that the failed switch I was replacing was the after- market type the $10 one that a previous owner had installed. It came out pretty easily. That switch has a "hex head" style body which also fits nicely in a 1/2" drive socket. Can't remember what size but it is smaller than the 1 1/16" socket needed to fit the OEM switch.
June 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Bruce Comments: Broke my first OEM brake light switch trying to install it as I could not turn it 1/4 turn to lock it into position by hand so tried using a wrench. Bad idea. Then determined that the square switch body fits perfectly in a 1/2" drive 1 1/16" socket. Socket holds the switch on all four corners and switch extends beyond the socket to enable installation into the mount bracket. The larger diameter of the socket allows for more hand/finger torque to be applied in order to make the 1/4 locking turn.
June 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Lynn Comments: I DID IT! I changed the brake light switch. I moved the seat all the way down and back. Slid into the cabin floor hear first, disconnected the wiring harness, used a very small screwdriver to use as a tool to rotate the switch and, voila, it loosened and came out. I prepared the new switch by lightly sanding the tabs with a nail file to shave off a small amount. I used a piece of wood, under the clutch and on top of the brake pedal to depress the pedal. I stuck in the switch, turned and it was set. I plugged in the wiring harness, turned on the ignition and it worked just fine. I'm so happy.
May 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
FlatSix Comments: ... perhaps i should add, that it is an automatic/tiptronic transmission. Thanks
May 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
FlatSix Comments: Hi Forum ... 1st time posting so pse be kind. Have a 2004 Boxster S. Rear lights were flickering, so replaced switch with a non OEM part followed your step by step guide, from your 101 Projects Book - which i love - taillight now work perfectly - BUT; Since then, my Cruise Control and its green light dash indicator now only works intermittently. Always works when car starts - and for about 5-10mins into drive, then for no reason i can ID, the green CC light disappears, and i can't get it back. Could it be as simple as another Switch?
May 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Was there an issue with the cruise light before?

I would install the old switch, to confirm the cruise light still flickers. if not, the switch is the issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
al b Comments: Is it possible that the bolt holding on the clutch pedal switch is 7.5 mm?
April 30, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not likely. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
txhokie4lfe Comments: Just curious - can the switch connectors be swapped? I have a track car with a custom clutch - the engagement is much higher - to start it is beyond the clutch engagement, and I don't care about cruise. Aside from removing altogether, swapping might be an option car is not stored here or I would check myself.
December 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure, I would assume no. I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JC Comments: On the following comment: "the other won't let you start the car without the clutch pedal pushed in". My Boxster 2001 cranks very well but the car does not start. Is that a possible symptom of a bad clutch safety switch? Does the clutch safety switch prevents the starter of rotating or it rotates but prevents the car from starting? Thanks, JC
November 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the clutch switch will prevent the engine from starting. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Chris Brocious Comments: My brakes were flickering, so I pulled my switch and cleaned it. When I put it back in, the brake lights stayed on constantly. Apparently, when I pulled it out, whatever if anything that was pushing the plunger in either fell off the brake pedal, or the plunger got osteoporosis and shortened up on me. When I pulled the switch, and pushed the plunger in with my hand, it worked great. So what did I do... I stuck a piece of cardboard in between the metal housing the brake light switch sits in and the brake pedal. Worked great.

I hope this saves someone some time, sanity, energy, etc.
November 4, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the Info. We appreciate it. I would get a new switch in there asap. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ScoobyDoo555 Comments: I've got the ABS/PSM lights coming on my MY99 996 C4 when I press the brake pedal. The lights also come on when coasting. I'm suspecting the switch as I now have no brake lights either even after switching the car off to reset the ABS/PSM.... new brake light switch? :
October 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be. Checking for fault codes would be best, for the warning lights. However, with the lack of brake lights, I think you may be on the right track. Fix the lights, then see if the problem persists. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mharrison Comments: As a tip that I read in another forum, very lightly grease the two plastic prongs/lugs that go through the bracket and the two plastic spring tabs. I tried it without this and couldn't do it. I applied grease very sparingly with a toothpick and it was very easy!
August 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Comments: My hands were too big to turn the brake switch to remove it. However I was able to unplug from the connector and then disconnect the next part of the plastic housing witch has double clips on both sides. The copper was very dirty. So I cleaned with mixture of salt and lemon juice and put it back together. Now the brakes work again! Just make sure you put the spring back in the correct location! Pelican, is there a special wrench that can be purchased to turn this? With a tool this would be an easy task!
August 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't believe there is a special tool.

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Dan K Comments: I can not agree with the comments above stating replacing this part is "easy". I had to break the old brake light switch to remove if from my 1998 Boxster. Good thing I ordered two OEM replacement switches from Pelican as I broke the first one trying to reseat it. Unless you have small hands and a short forearm, you would have to be able to dislocate your wrist to fit your hand in the small place. I plan to go to the Porsche Dealer as they must have a tool and simple trick to put the part in place. Maybe I did not find the correct swear word to facilitate the process!
July 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jay buck Comments: Is it possible for the stop light switch to bad on right side not letting right brake light to come on
July 2, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What kind of vehicle? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Paul in KY Comments: Ok I have a 99 Boxster. When I depress the pedal slightly as in starting to slow down/stopthe light comes on but if I push it down to totally stop, the brake lights go off altogether. Pretty sure it is the switch starting to go out. Think that *may* be it?
April 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've seen that been caused by the switch on occasion. Take a quick look down by the pedal with a flash light, the switch is easy to see. Then move the brake pedal and make sure the pedal is touching the switch. If it is touching the pedal correctly, the switch is likely faulty. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
2thpuller Comments: Have a 2006 Boxster. Right rear brake light stopped working. Running lights and turn signals fine. Bulb fine. Left tail light all fine. Fuse fine. Is it possible that corroded contacts in switch causing only one side to malfunction?
April 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is there voltage going to the socket for the bulb? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
PaulDash Comments: Is the plug that connects to this switch along with the crimp-on spade connectors available from Porsche? If not, is there a compatible plug?
April 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Electrical repair kits are available. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
dwa Comments: Nick asks - Possible environmental issue?

Yeah - if you consider that one of the possibilities is the environment where the switch is located. Could it be that the clutch arm hammers the heck out of the switch? OK out there - you DIYer's - when you buy and receive a new switch and you've remoxed the flumuxed one out of the car - compare the microswitch arm. Is the old one hammered? Just thinking. i could be wrong.
DOUG
February 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
DWA Comments: OK - enuf. Second time to replace 2012 997 with 14,000 miles clutch pedal switch - 997.613.109.50. Observation w/o comparison 'cause the dealer kept the 'faulty' switch- that trigger arm looks might flimsy highly technical termcould the clutch arm mash the switch arm to a point where it becomes ineffective? Just asking.
February 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Odd that two would fail so quickly. Possible environmental issue? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Michael Comments: My brake lights were not working in my 1999 Boxsterand after reading the items above, I decided to remove the switch and check it out. The switch can be easily taken apart and noticed the internal copper tabs corroded and dirty. Did a little cleaning by submerging the components in water with baking soda. Put it bag together and now works fine. No need to buy one. Sorry Pelican.
February 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Michael Caeg Comments: I just replaced the clutch switch and still having issues starting my 97 boxster. Any suggestions?
December 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What's going on when it doesn't start? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
backtotheporsche Comments: Many thanks to UrS4_2008 who had the same problem I was having brake lights stuck ON when key is in the ignition-I rather easily removed the switch didn't even have to demate the connector and pulled out the plunger a few clicks, reinstalled and Voila! my problem was solved.
June 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Deadmanneverdies Comments: When I hit the brakes my lights sometimes light up and sometimes does not. I understand that its the brake pedal switch. But their are 2 of them. replace both?
September 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is one brake light switch. I attached a photo and text from the tech article to help you.

"Here are the two clutch pedal switches. The yellow arrow points to the microswitch that prevents the car from starting if you don't have the pedal pushed in. The red switch is the one that deactivates the cruise control when you push the clutch in." - Nick at Pelican Parts
mark1958 Comments: Very helpful but on my 2007 Cayman there is a heater duct blocking the view of the switch any tips for getting the connections off as I cant see the switch as in your picture. The cruise control is easily viewable, just need some advice on how to get at witch - thanks
August 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The duct should pull off. Just double check there aren't any fasteners attaching the duct to the vehicle. Run your hand along it, checking for attaching points. If none are found. Pull one end out to remove it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RalphyT Comments: When I gently depress the brake pedal the brake lights don't activate. As pressure is applied the brake lights come and will stay on as long as the amount of pressure doesn't change. As the pressure on the pedal increases the lights go back out. Sound like this switch??
January 29, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is definitely odd behavior for a switch. This switch does control the brake lights so I would replace this first and see if that fixes the problem. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Stephan Wilkinson Comments: The Clutch Pedal Switch Replacement article is interesting in that it reveals to me that I ordered and got the wrong clutch-pedal switch from you. I ordered the one that shuts down cruise control p/n 996-613-114-01-M64, when I wanted the one that prevents the ignition from working until the clutch pedal is fully depressed..

Okay, so I'm out $25, no big deal.

Now I want the correct starter-interlock switch, and the article says "click here to order parts for this project." So I do, and all it shows is the cruise-control switch. How do I get the starter-interlock switch?
July 24, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Drop our sales department a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
UrS4_2008 Comments: My brake lights were on constantly. I ordered and mounted a new switch, when I saw that the length of the actuator on the switch is adjustable, and mine was adjustet too short - hence brake lights were on constantly. This happened after a lot of braking done when changing the brake booster and all fluid. So all I really had to do was to remove the switch, extend the rod, and reinstall the same switch. Oh well...
June 19, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
alfa11 Comments: The brake pedal switch and the clutch cruise controle switch are both "twist snd pull" to remove 1/4 turn. These switches are plunger type with a multi wire connectors.

The clutch "start engine" awitch has two small phillips head screws mounted sideways that can be accesed with a 4" or 5" small phillips screw driver. This switch has a metal lever and only two wires.

These are all painfull to get to in that you will need to move your seat to the rear and lay on your back with your head under the pedals looking up. Best to bring reading glasses and take your favorite pain meds before attempting.
June 18, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and tip on the pain meds. :) We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Randy Comments: I have since found the switch I mentioned below when I searched by part number, 997 613 109 02.

Your photo above - Figure 1 - shows the gray starter interlock switch very well.
January 20, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Randy Comments: I've been having intermittant starting problems with my 03 Boxster and have narrowed it down to the clutch starter interlock switch. I often have to release the clutch and depress it again to get the switch to engage the starter.

This is one of two switches on the clutch pedal. As stated below, one switch red disengages the cruise control I have the switch, but not the cruise control... and the other switch gray prevents starting unless the clutch is depressed completely. This switch piggybacks on the bracket on the other switch. A photo of this switch bypassed with a tie-wrap is here:

http://boxsters.addr.com/hacks/clutch_switch.htm

You have the first switch listed in your catalog 996-613-114-01-M64, but I'm not finding the starter interlock switch 997 613 109 02. Am I missing something? Please don't make me go to the stealer... dealer to buy this switch! It looks like a very simple replacement.
January 20, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I took the part number from your follow up. In the case someone needs this part it is: 997 613 109 02 - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Hurdigurdiman Comments: Has anyone ever noticed when doing a brake job, under normal braking or even track braking, which, if either set, front or rear brake pads, wear out more than the other? I just did a brake job on my 1999 C2 996 and only needed to replace the rear brake pads. Just wondered if this was normal. Can anyone shed light on this subject. Thanks.
November 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, in general, the front brakes wear out much quicker than the rears because when you have heavy braking, you have what is commonly known as "weight" transfer to the front brakes. The best way of illustrating this is to think of a trick motorcyclist who slams on his brakes and makes the rear wheel come off the ground while braking. This is an exaggerated circumstance, but you can draw the analogy from this that under normal heavy braking, the rear of the car tends to lift, reducing the amount of weight on the rear (and thus the amount of braking). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Hurdigurdiman Comments: Comments from JDAM...I just bought a switch from you and tried installing it. The old one was in very tight - I had to use channel locks and broke it into several pieces to remove it. Now I cannot get the new one into place. I can't twist it by hand, and I'm afraid to use a wrench since it's so awkward to get a clean hold on the switch.


Check the switch contact is slightly pointed so it can turn easily as PETER E had to do. That may do the trick. Good luck.
November 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
PeterE Comments: I just installed the brake position switch and had the same problem as jdab. So I compared the old and new switches carefully. The only physical difference was on one of the two prongs that hold the swith into the chassis. On the old one, one prong is not as pointy compared to the new one. So, with an exacto knife I trimmed one pointy tip and that did the trick. Only took off 1/32nd or so. This was preventing the switch from twisting while trying to insert it. Now all is good.
September 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Odd, I haven't heard of this problem from other customers, but I will make a note in our files to check this out. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
kanu Comments: The clutch pedal has two switches, although I'm not quite sure why.

You want the cruise control to disengage as soon as you begin to depress the clutch. You don't want the starter to be able to engage until the clutch is fully depressed. A single switch on the clutch pedal wouldn't be able to fulfill both of these functions.
September 5, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That's a pretty good point, I never thought to check the engagement points of the clutch pedal itself. I guess one is high travel, and one is low travel. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jdab Comments: Wayne,
I just bought a switch from you and tried installing it. The old one was in very tight - I had to use channel locks and broke it into several pieces to remove it. Now I cannot get the new one into place. I can't twist it by hand, and I'm afraid to use a wrench since it's so awkward to get a clean hold on the switch.

Any suggestions? I'm afraid I'll have to just take it to a mechanic.
April 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See answer above... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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