Pelican Technical Article: Window Regulator Replacement / Window Switch Replacement / Window Motor Replacement Wayne R. Dempsey
Time: 1 hr
Tab: $235
Talent:
Tools:
Torx driver set
Applicable Models:
986 Boxster (1997-04) 987 Boxster (2005-08)
Parts Required:
New window regulator and motor
Hot Tip:
Clean the window and regulator channels carefully prior to the reinstallation
Performance Gain:
Smooth, reliable window operation
Complementary Modification:
Replace lock assembly, mirror switch
This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster. The book contains 312 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 950+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any Boxster owner's collection. The book is currently available and in stock now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
Check out some other sample projects from the book:
Have you gotten tired of having to open your door and get out to retrieve your burger at the drive thru window? Is your roof stuck up because the window is broken and the car won't let you open the roof without the window rolling down? Perhaps it's time to replace or clean your window regulator, or install a new power window motor. Not much is better than driving in your Boxster with the roof and windows down on a nice sunny day. Having a broken window regulator can surely put a damper on that.
The first step in replacing either the regulator or the power window motor is to remove the door panel (see Pelican Technical Article: Door Panel Removal / Mirror Switch Replacement). Make sure that you eliminate the power window switch as a potential problem before you start tearing into your door (see Figure 1). Double-check all the fuses that control the power windows, and swap out the relays to make sure that there isn't a problem with them. If one of the windows works and the other doesn't, then chances are that it's the window motor or the window switch. The switches themselves are often faulty, which can sometimes make this an easy fix. Test the switch by removing it from the center console, and swap it with one that is working. If there is any noise coming from the door (clicks and whines) and the window isn't moving, then it's quite obvious that the motor is fine, but the regulator needs to be repaired. If your window is not dropping down when you pull open the door handle, then you probably have an issue with the electrical switch that is integrated into the handle itself. See Project 78 for more details on replacing the handle and that switch.
For details on removing the door panel, see Pelican Technical Article: Door Panel Removal / Mirror Switch Replacement. When you have the door panel removed, you can view the regulator. With your fingers clearly out of the way, roll down the window until it's about 75% of the way down. Observe what is happening: the goal here is to figure out if the motor or the regulator needs replacing. If there is no movement, then the motor is suspect. If the motor moves, or clicks, then your regulator probably needs to be replaced. Remove the motor (Figure 4), and then the regulator (Figure 5).
With the regulator detached from the doorframe and the window, you should test the motor. With your hands out of the way of the motor, carefully press lightly on the window switch and see if the motor moves properly. If the motor doesn't move at all, then it probably is worn out, assuming that you've checked the window switch (check the voltage to the motor when you press the window switch to see if it's getting 12V).
Before you reinstall the window, I recommend that you inspect and replace the front window channel guide if it's worn. This is the channel that guides the front of the window as it is raised and lowered by the regulator. Also worth replacing are the window slot seals if they are worn out. These inner and outer window scrapers keep water from dripping down into the recesses of the door. You should also grease all of the moving parts of the regulator: the slides, the motor, the gears, etc.
Before you close everything up inside your door, it's a wise idea to test the proper operation of the window. With your fingers clearly out of the way, hook up the power connections to the window motor, and try to raise and lower the window. Also verify and adjust the stop positions of the window once you have reinstalled the regulator (see Figure 6). There are screws located on the regulator that control these stop positions. If the power is disconnected from the car, the power windows lose their reference point for the closed position and need to be re-initialized. With the convertible top fully closed, press the up button on each window and then continue pressing down for about five more seconds.
Figure 1
The first step in checking the proper operation of your window is to verify that the window switches are working. Remove the two screws in the coin tray (inset), and then pull out the assembly. If one window works and the other does not, try swapping the switches with each other. Replacement is easy, they snap out the back (in the direction of the green arrow), after releasing the tab inside with a small screwdriver.
Here's a photo of a brand new regulator. Compared to the old days, modern window regulators are an advanced design, incorporating the cables, gears, and rails into a single assembly. The blue arrow shows where the motor bolts to the regulator. The white arrow points to where the lower edge of the window mounts to the regulator. The orange arrows show the adjustment / tightening screws for the window clamps. The purple arrow shows the height adjustment points for the window (see Figure 6).
Shown here is the procedure for window removal. Raise the window all the way up and stick a screwdriver in the door latch mechanism to trick the car into thinking the door is fully closed. This will keep the window in the top elevated position (see Frame A of Figure 6). Pry off the rubber plugs that cover the access holes (green arrow). Loosen but do not remove the two window clamping screws (yellow arrow). Finally, pull the window up out of the door (purple arrow).
Removal of the window motor is fairly easy. Disconnect the electrical harness connection (blue arrow). Then remove the three nuts that hold the motor to the door. Push the motor into the door and pull it down so that you can access the studs that you just took the nuts off of. Remove the three studs (purple arrow shows one of them): they are what hold the motor and the regulator together. Finally, pull the motor off of the regulator (inset photo, upper left).
With the motor disconnected and detached, removal of the regulator is a snap. Disconnect the four mounting points for the regulator (green arrow) and it should slide out of the lower part of the door. On the very bottom surface of the door, you need to remove the two inner door plugs to reveal the mounting nuts (orange arrow).
Window adjustment can be a bit tricky. A- Trick the door into thinking it's closed by putting a short screwdriver into the lock mechanism. The window should raise about 12mm. B- With the roof up, push the door near to being closed and measure the distance that the top of the window is located above the bottom edge of the seal. This should be about 2mm or so. C- Make sure that the glass is aligned properly left-to-right in the holding clamps. The edge / corner of the glass should be aligned with the edge of the aluminum clamp (purple arrow). To align the left-right angle of the window, use the slot indicated by the green arrow (only the rear slot is adjustable). D- Check the distance that the window sits into the seal by using small pieces of Post-It notes affixed to the window. Open the door and measure the distance from the top of the Post-It notes to the top of the window. This should be about 4mm. E- Adjust the window height by removing the outer plugs in the bottom of the door and using an E6 Torx socket to turn the stopper (counter-clockwise = higher window). F- Check the window rake angle by placing a sheet of paper in the window and rolling it up. You should not be able to remove the paper. Adjust the rake angle by moving the position of the two lower mounting studs for the regulator, in the slots in the door (remove the inner lower door plugs to access these).
Comments: I have 2001 911 c4 cabrio and need to replace the passenger rear window regulator. some one told me i need to reset the computer to make it synchronize with the cabrio top is this true ? or I just need to instal it at the bottom of the cycle ?
May 11, 2012
andrew83944
Comments: hey there..have an 01 boxter..heard a weird noise when opening my window..after removing the door panel and inner vapour barrier..I found the round white plastic wheel that keeps tension on the front wire to the window regulator had fallen off.I found the inner magnetic sleeve that fits into the tube that holds this white wheel but not the metal cap..is this cap and plastic wheel available or do I have to buy a new regulator.
Thanks
April 29, 2012
mike
Comments: I have a 2000 boxster and after it was serviced, "with the battery disconnscted" I shut the passenger door. I did not realize the window had not lowered itself. I tried several times to close the door with the window up not knowing it was all the way up. When I realized the window was all the way up I lowered the window manually with the window switch and closed the door. I guess I broke something when I kept trying to close the door with the window up. Now when you pull the inner or outer door handle the window lowers part way but not enough to open the door. The window will raise and lower with the regular window control switch. There is a pop when the window get all the way up. Any ideas what I broke
March 17, 2012
bratboy03
Comments: Hi there. I have replaced the R/H window regulator and the motor on our 2003 Boxster S. The original problem was that the motor would not lower the window enough to open the door when you raised the handle, or pulled the inner handle halfway. It turned out there is a rubber buffer in the motor that was worn. The window would go down the neccesary 1/2 inch if you took up the slack. Now with the new parts installed the window slack is gone but the window will only go about 1/4 inch when the handle is raised and when you release it the window returns. I can't seem to find any adhjustments anywhere for this and I don't think it is an electrical issue. Lastly when I was looking at the new regulator I noticed a series of 4 spring clips on one motor end of the cable. One of the four clips was part way out when I recevied it so I pushed it in. Is it possible that this could have something to do with the window not dropping fully or did something else go wrong in my installation. If anyone has any input I sure would appreciate it. Thank you in advance
February 26, 2012
PJ
Comments: excellent article! Great Pics. About 4 hrs works fine. Porsche Dealer wanted $ 380 part and $350+ labor. Thanks! PJ
September 17, 2011
mrmetts
Comments: WARNING: Hook the airbag up electrically before re-connecting the battery and turning the ignition key to check window operation and fit. If you leave the airbag disconnected and turn the ignition switch, it will activate the airbag warning lamp, requiring a computer re-set.
June 6, 2011
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip, that's true. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Mh
Comments: Will this apply to a 2000. 996
February 12, 2011
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the window regulators and just about everything inside the doors is the same on the Boxster and the 996/997 - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Check out some other sample projects from the book:
