Figure 1 | | Shown here is the glass rear roof upgrade for the early Boxsters that only had the plastic rear window. As you can see, the window is a bit smaller than the plastic version. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 2 | |
Figure 3 | | Remove the two front latches (green arrows), the screw that holds on the side seal (purple arrow), and the front retaining rail (yellow arrows). | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 4 | | With the attachment screws removed, pull down and remove the front convertible top seal. Inspect this seal carefully: you might want to replace it if it's old or damaged. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 5 | |
Figure 6 | |
Figure 7 | | With the screws removed, you should be able to lift up the front part of the convertible top. Much of it will be stuck to the frame with double-sided adhesive: peel it back slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the frame. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 8 | | The top is attached to a plastic channel piece that runs down the center of the car. Remove the metal clip in the center that affixes the channel to the top. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 9 | | Pull back the top, and then you should be able to slide this channel piece off of the top (pull in the direction of the red arrow). | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 10 | | On the top of the roof will be two aluminum pieces with a cable and spring attached. Cut away the plastic shrink wrapping and disconnect the cable from the end of the spring. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 11 | | With the cable removed from the spring, remove it from the end of the aluminum channel. This cable is used to guide the top around the window frames when raising or lowering the roof, and is integrated / sewn into the roof lining. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 12 | | Taking caution not to damage the aluminum panels, cut them out from the old roof and place them on your workbench. You will be reusing these on the new top. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 13 | | Turn on the ignition and carefully lower the roof so that it's about 75% down. Remove the screw that holds the other end of the tensioning cable. This screw also secures a flap on the top, and the plastic slider. Be careful not to drop it into the recesses of the roof compartment, as it can be difficult to retrieve. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 14 | | There is a plastic slider piece that is attached to the top liner and held onto the frame with two plastic rivets. Using care, remove the rivets and squeeze the prongs from behind and pull the piece out of the frame. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 15 | | This photo shows the backside of the slider piece with the plastic rivet broken. It's very easy to damage this piece when removing it, but new ones are inexpensive at about $10. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 16 | | With the rivets detached from the frame, the slider piece can be removed from the top by peeling back the top material (yellow arrow) and sliding its groove out of the plastic retainer that is sewn into the top liner (green arrow). | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 17 | | Here's what the frame looks like after you have pulled out the plastic slider piece (arrows show the two pivot holes). | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 18 | |
Figure 19 | |
Figure 20 | |
Figure 21 | | Pull back the roof material from the channel. You may find it easier to remove the locking strip first (see next photo). | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 22 | |
Figure 23 | | The last and final step in the removal of the roof is to slide it out of the channel that is attached to the middle bar of the roof frame. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 24 | | Go over the Boxster frame carefully and remove all traces of double-sided tape and residue with a mild degreaser and isopropyl alcohol. Also clean the two aluminum pieces that you removed from the original roof. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 25 | |
Figure 26 | | Poke holes in the new fabric (for the screws) and then affix the new fabric using the double-sided tape. Attach the cable to the spring, and wrap with some tape or heat-shrink tubing. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 27 | |
Figure 28 | | Take the two plastic sliders removed in Photo 16 and transfer them to the new roof liner. Push each slider onto the liner in the direction indicated by the arrow. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 29 | | Install the new roof onto the frame, first sliding the middle part into the rear channel (as shown in Figure 23). I suggest covering the rear window with some paper and tape to avoid accidentally scratching it during the installation process. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 30 | | Slide on the middle plastic channel into the new roof liner. Use a light bit of silicone spray on the plastic piece if you're having a tough time getting this threaded. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 31 | |
Figure 32 | | Apply some 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive to the channel, and then screw down the top liner using the sheet metal screws. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 33 | | With the roof about 75% open, snap the slider pieces back into place on both the left and right sides, and reinstall the plastic rivet. On the roof that we installed, the new liner included a set of helper straps that needed to be affixed to this rivet. After the slider pieces are installed, reattach the roof cable using the screw removed in Figure 13. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 34 | | Move the roof back to about 18 inches open. At the rear of the car, measure the center of the window and the center of the rear channel and mark the liner and the channel so that you can line them up during the next steps. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 35 | | Apply double-sided adhesive tape to the rear channel in the same manner as it was when you removed the old top. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 36 | | Lining up the rear and making sure it's centered, feed the top material into the top of the rear channel. Keep the seam aligned slightly low along the edge of the rail, otherwise, the seam may be visible when the top is closed. Use a small rubber hammer to tap in the locking strip (shown with orange arrow). | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 37 | |
Figure 38 | | Reinstall the thicker seal into the lower channel. We used double-sided tape for this, but the seal repeatedly fell out when the roof was raised and lowered. Consider using the 3M Super Weatherstrip instead if this happens. | | Large Image | Extra-Large Image |
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Figure 39 | |
Figure 40 | |
Bonus Photos | Looking for more photos? Click to see bonus pictures for this project. |
