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Pelican Technical Article:
Coolant Replacement / Coolant Flush
 

 
Time: 2 hours
Tab: $120
Talent:  
Tools:
Large bucket, socket set
Applicable Models:
986 Boxster (1997-04)
987 Boxster (2005-08)
Parts Required:
6-12 quarts of coolant
Hot Tip:
Make sure your bucket is big and wide to catch the coolant stream
Performance Gain:
Prevents electrolysis in your engine
Complementary Modification:
Water pump and hose replacement
 
   

  This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster.  The book contains 312 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads.   With more than 950+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any Boxster owner's collection. The book is currently available and in stock now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 

Check out some other sample projects from the book: 

Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!
   
     One often neglected task on many cars is the maintenance of the cooling system. In general, Porsche recommends that you flush and clean out your cooling system once every 36 months, or approximately every three years. I like to perform this task on my own cars about once a year, or if I let it slip, once every two years. The reason for this is that old, exhausted coolant can actually cause irreversible damage to your engine components - I found this out firsthand when I recently replaced the head gasket on one of my older BMWs. It looked like the previous owner hadn't changed the fluid once in the past ten years. As a result, there were many parts of the engine that were corroded and showing severe signs of wear.

     A properly maintained cooling system must have a few things in order: adequate supply of coolant, a radiator that acts as a heat exchanger with the outside air, a fan or air flow source, a water pump to keep the coolant circulating, and a thermostat to regulate the engine at its optimum operating temperature. The coolant must also have the correct mixture and chemical compounds to promote heat transfer, protect against freezing, and also inhibit corrosion. To keep your Boxster operating correctly, it's important to check the level, strength, and overall condition of the coolant on a regular basis. You also need to change the coolant before it degrades to the point where it doesn't perform its job adequately.

     A fact that I keep hearing kicked around revolves around the reported findings of the U.S Department of Transportation, which states that cooling system failures are the leading cause of mechanical breakdowns on the highway. Not exactly surprising, since proper cooling maintenance is one of the most neglected areas of most cars.

     Electrolysis - One failure mode associated with dirty coolant is known as electrolysis. Electrolysis occurs when stray electrical current routes itself through the engine coolant. The electricity attempts to find the shortest path, and impurities in the coolant often generate a path of least resistance that the electricity travels across. The source of this stray electricity is often from electrical engine accessories that have not been properly grounded. A missing engine or transmission ground strap can also cause the coolant to become electrified. Sometimes the path of least resistance becomes a radiator, a heater hose, or even the heater core. These components are often well grounded, and offer a ground path from the engine to the chassis by means of the semi-conductive path of the coolant.

     Electrolysis can destroy your engine quickly. Although it's semi-normal to have very small amounts of voltage potential in your coolant system, values greater than about a tenth of a volt can start reactions between the coolant and the metal in your engine. In particular, electrolysis affects primarily aluminum engine components, resulting in pitting and scaring of the aluminum surface. This eating away of the metal can cause coolant system leaks, and in particular, radiator leaks around aluminum welds. Cast-iron components are also vulnerable, but typically the aluminum metal parts fail first. Often, electrolysis can be easily seen attacking aluminum cylinder heads (see Figure 1).

     How can you test for electrolysis? Other than actually seeing visible signs of erosion, you can perform a current flow test. Connect the negative terminal of a voltmeter to the chassis ground. Test for adequate continuity by touching another point on the chassis - the resistance should be near to zero. With the engine cold and running, submerge the positive probe into the coolant tank, making sure that the probe does not touch any metal parts. The voltage should be less than .10 volts. If not, methodically turn off or unplug each electrical accessory until the reading reads below .10 volts. Have an assistant switch accessories (like the A/C compressor, heater blower, etc.) while you measure the voltage.

     If an accessory doesn't have an on/off switch, test it by temporarily running a ground from the housing of the accessory to the chassis. Ground each component and check the voltmeter. If the wire restores a missing ground connection to the accessory, then you've found a component with a faulty ground.

     During this test, be sure to check the starter. Not only will a poorly grounded starter struggle to turn over the engine, it will also zap away tremendous amounts of metal in your cooling system components. Watch the meter carefully when starting the engine. Any voltage spike will indicate a faulty ground connection.

     Coolant System Additives - Many people are rightly skeptical of coolant system additives - there are a lot of myths in the automotive industry. Luckily, the coolant system additives are in the category of good practice, for reasons I'll explain here. It all begins with chemistry. Like today's modern oils, many of today's modern coolants incorporate some of the chemicals that help cooling and increase heat flow around your cooling system components. As more and more automotive components are made out of aluminum, and radiators become smaller, the use of these additives becomes more advantageous.

     Aftermarket coolant system additives are known as surfactants. What is a surfactant? A surfactant or surface active agent, is a molecule that has a water-loving end (hydrophilic and water fearing end (hydrophobic). Localized boiling of coolant in the cylinder head can create large shock waves that can wreck havoc on your engine, particularly on aluminum components. Without going into too much boring detail, these surfactants also help to reduce the amount of air in the cooling system, and also control the amount of foam within the system.

     In general, there are three main reasons why using these additives is beneficial to your cooling system. Firstly, they reduce harmful cavitations and foaming that may occur when your water pump is kicking out fluid at a rapid pace. This reduced foaming helps to prevent damage to aluminum surfaces. Secondly, the use of these additives aid in the transmission of heat from the coolant to the radiating surfaces within the radiator. Even if your car runs very cool, these additives add an extra level of protection in case a thermostat or similar component fails. Thirdly, the additives contain corrosion inhibitors. Most cars on the road have cooling systems that do not contain the ideal 50/50 water / antifreeze ratio that the antifreeze manufacturers design for. The additives help to minimize potential corrosion by maintaining adequate pH levels. Even if your antifreeze already contains surfactant additives, the use of these additional additives is typically beneficial because most cars are shortchanged on the 50/50 coolant/water mix.

     In general, the benefits of additives like Water Wetter are:
  • Reduces corrosion due to rust, and electrolysis
  • Increases the 'wetting ability' of water and improves heat transfer, thus reducing cylinder head temperatures
  • Cleans and lubricates coolant system seals like those found in the water pump
  • Reduces the formation of foam and cavitations which can cause corrosion
  • Reduces the effects of 'hard water' in the cooling system

     In general, the addition of these additives is cheap, and it's a proven benefit too - no snake oil here. Using the additives on a perfectly maintained car can also provide a significant margin of error in case something goes wrong. Porsches are not generally known for cooling system failures, but keeping the odds on your side can prevent a costly head gasket replacement.

     It's important to keep your cooling system at the correct pH as well. Water has a pH of 7 and is considered neutral. Battery acid is highly corrosive and has a pH of about 2-3, whereas baking soda is very alkaline, and has a pH of about 10-11. In general, you want to make sure that your coolant has a pH greater than seven. Any pH less than that will result in an acidic mixture, which will start to corrode your engine. The corrosion inhibitors in additives and antifreeze are added specifically to keep the pH above 7. A properly mixed 50/50 split between water and antifreeze will yield a pH of about 8-9. Over time, the glycol (one of the main components of antifreeze) will break down and degrade, creating acidic compounds. The alkaline corrosion inhibitors must be adequate enough to neutralize these acidic byproducts over the life of the coolant. Minerals in the water, heat, dissolved oxygen, and other factors gradually deplete the coolant of its corrosion inhibitors. Once gone, the mixture will become acidic, and will begin to eat away at your engine.

     Cooling System Maintenance: Checking the Level - It's very important to check your coolant level regularly, as this will help detect leaks that can siphon off coolant and cause overheating in your engine. You should regularly check the coolant level in your coolant reservoir, making sure that it is within the prescribed High/Low marks. These marks are printed on the side of the coolant container, located in the rear trunk. The container is slightly transparent, and you can see through it slightly to see the current coolant level.

     Your Boxster will lose a little bit of coolant here and there over time due to evaporation and/or sporadic leakage. However, a significant loss of coolant over a very short period of time almost certainly signifies a leak in the system. Sometimes a leak can be seen when you park the car overnight. Often the coolant leaks out and then evaporates while you're driving, leaving no tell-tale mark of coolant on the pavement. If you suspect a coolant leak, visually inspect all of the hoses, the water pump, the reservoir, and the radiator for seepage or the 'weeping' of coolant out of seams and gaskets. Check the seal on the radiator cap. Check that the radiator cap is fastened securely. If you suspect a leak that you cannot see, a pressure test from a professional mechanic can verify the integrity of your system.

     If you can't find any visible leaks and the system appears to hold pressure, then check to make sure that the cap is good, and is rated for the proper pressure. Verify that the cap you have for your Boxster is the proper one for your engine. If you look inside the coolant tank and the coolant is muddy or cloudy, then you may have a serious head gasket problem. Oil may be leaking past the gasket and mixing with the coolant. This typically means that the engine needs to come apart and the head gaskets resealed, which is a complex and expensive repair as you might imagine.

     If the system does not hold pressure, and you're still at a loss where coolant might be disappearing to, then you might want to start looking in the oil. A faulty head gasket will often cause coolant to leak into the oil. If you remove your oil cap and find a yellow murky substance, then you probably have a faulty head gasket. The oil level may be elevated and you will be able to see droplets of coolant inside the oil filler hole. If coolant is leaking past the gasket into a combustion chamber, you will see steam exiting out of the tailpipe, and the spark plugs will foul easily. In addition, the exhaust will be contaminated with the silicate corrosion inhibitors found in the coolant, and your oxygen sensor will be destroyed - plan on replacing it if you have experienced this problem.

     If you can't discover what happened to the coolant, it may be because there was a temporary overheating problem and some of the coolant boiled over. In this case, top off the coolant and keep a very close eye on it. It's not uncommon for overheating issues to suddenly destroy a head gasket.

     Checking Coolant Strength & Condition - You should periodically test the strength and condition of your coolant to assure that you have achieved the optimum balance for your Boxster. This is just as important for protection against heat as it is for protection against freezing. An imbalance between water and antifreeze levels will change the boiling point and/or freezing point of the mixture. A 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene glycol (EG) antifreeze will provide protection against boiling up to approximately 255° F (with a 15 psi radiator cap). This mixture will protect against freezing to a chilly -34° F. On the other hand, a similar 50/50 mixture of propylene glycol (PG) antifreeze and water will give you protection from -26° F to about 257° F.

     If you increase the concentration of antifreeze in your coolant, you will raise the effective boiling point, and lower the freezing point. While this may seem beneficial on the surface, having a antifreeze content of greater than 65-70% will significantly reduce the ability of the coolant to transmit and transfer heat. This increases the chances of overheating. As with most things in life, it's a good thing to maintain a healthy balance.

     Beware - you cannot accurately determine the condition of your coolant simply by looking at it. The chemical composition and concentrations in the coolant are very important - if the chemistry is off, then your coolant may be harming your engine.

     As mentioned previously, it is important to keep the coolant fresh. The main ingredient in antifreeze, ethylene glycol, typically accounts for 95% of antifreeze by weight. It does not typically wear out, but the corrosion inhibitors that comprise the remaining 5% typically do degrade and wear out over time. Keeping the coolant fresh is especially important with engines that have both aluminum heads and cast iron blocks.

     I recommend that the coolant be changed at least every two years, or every 25,000 miles. I'm not a huge fan of long-life antifreeze - if these longer-life fluids are mixed with conventional antifreeze (a very easy mistake to make), the corrosion inhibitors react and reduce the effective protection of the long-life fluid. If you do have this long-life fluid installed in your car, only add the same type of anti-freeze to the car. Don't mix and match regular and long-life fluid.

     Unfortunately, it's tough to determine if your long-life coolant has been mixed or topped off with ordinary antifreeze. Although some coolants are dyed a separate color (like Dex-Cool in GM vehicles), when mixed with standard antifreeze, it typically isn't enough to overpower the bright green color. In general, unless you know the entire service history of your Boxster, it's a wise idea to err on the side of caution, and use a shorter service interval for changing your coolant.

     Okay, so how do you check the coolant in your system? I recommend using little chemical strip tests that measure how much reserve alkalinity is left within the coolant. The test strip changes color when immersed in the coolant. You can then compare the final color change to a reference chart in order to determine the condition of the coolant. Obviously, if the coolant tests poorly or is borderline, you should plan on replacing your coolant very soon.

     An additional note: ethylene glycol (EG) and Propylene glycol (PG) antifreeze have differing specific gravities, so make sure that you use the correct type of test strip when testing your coolant. Otherwise, you may end up with false readings. EG antifreeze is very toxic to pets and small animals yet smells and tastes pretty good to them, so make sure that you keep old coolant away from them.

     Changing the Coolant in Your Boxster - Okay, so I've convinced you that your coolant needs changing. The good news is that it's relatively straightforward on the Boxster. Begin by getting a large drip pan to place underneath your car. My favorite choice is kitty litter boxes, as they are large, are made of plastic, and will hold a lot of coolant. The Boxster six cylinder engines will hold between 4-6 gallons, so make sure that whatever container you use is capable of holding all of that coolant.

     With your Boxster cold, elevate it on jack stands (see Pelican Technical Article: Jacking Up and Lifting the Boxster on Jack Stands) and remove the plastic protective panels that cover the radiator hoses on the underside of the car. Place the heater temp controls all the way to HI, turn the ignition to the on position, and turn on the passenger compartment fan to its lowest setting. Do not start the car. By turning the heater on, you are opening the valves to the heater core, which will allow you to drain the coolant located in the core. Move to the rear trunk and slowly remove the radiator cap inside the trunk to allow any coolant system pressure to vent out.

     Now it's time to empty the coolant: refer to Photo 2 for the location of the drain plug and the hoses that need to be disconnected. At the bottom of the engine, open the drain plug and let the coolant empty into your large bucket. When the flow has stopped, replace the plug using a new o-ring and torque to 7-11 ft-lbs (10-15 Nm). Next disconnect the two large radiator hoses that feed the supply and return coolant lines to the front of the car. I also like to disconnect the front lower hoses from the radiators as well, but this requires removing the front bumper cover (see Project 68 and Pelican Technical Article: Radiator Replacement and Cleaning).

     Reconnect the hoses when all of the coolant has drained using new hose clamps. I used to only recommend the use of good quality German screw-type clamps, but I'm slowly coming around to the annoying spring-clip type that were used in the initial assembly of the car. These clips have an advantage over the clamp type in that they apply constant pressure when the hose expands or contracts as the car heats and cools.

     Next, disconnect and empty the coolant from the two heater hoses. Reattach with new hose clamps. Now it's time to refill the coolant, and bleed the system. In the trunk, remove the oil cap, lift up the “trap door” panel (Figure 3), and then screw the oil cap back on. Flip up the metal clip that opens the bleeder valve (Figure 4). If you have an automatic transmission car, then you need to remove fuse B1, which is located in the fuse panel near the driver's side foot well (see Photo 5 of Pelican Technical Article: Roof Rack System (Roof Transport System - RTS)). This will disable the ATF cooler shut off valve temporarily. Now, fill the car up with coolant, until the coolant level is visible at the bottom edge of the coolant tank. Start the car and run it at idle, topping off the coolant to the maximum level, until no more coolant can be added. Rev the engine and let it settle down and top it off again if the level decreases. Be sure during the whole process that the car does not exceed 176° F (80° C) while bleeding the system: if the car gets too hot it will interfere with your ability to fill and bleed the system to the proper level.

     Now, reinstall the reservoir cap and let the car continue to warm up at about 2500 rpm for 10 minutes or until the thermostat for the front radiators opens up. When the thermostat opens and coolant starts flowing forwards, the electrical radiator fans should turn on. Now allow the car to continue to warm up a bit more, revving the car to about 5000 rpm every 30 seconds or so. Remove the reservoir cap slowly, letting any built up pressure dissipate. There should not be any tremendous pressure built up because the bleeder valve is still open at this time. Top off the coolant in the tank to the maximum level, reinstall the cap, and repeat the process of revving the engine to about 5000 rpm for another five minutes.

     Now, allow the engine to idle for a few minutes until you hear the radiator fans cycle on and off at least once. Turn off the engine, and slowly remove the reservoir cap again, relieving any pressure that might have built up there. Top off the coolant until it reaches the MAX level indicated on the coolant tank gauge, located on the side of the tank. Flip down the metal clip to close the bleeder valve and replace the “trap door” panel on top of the tank. If you have an automatic transmission car, then replace fuse B1 in the driver's side door kick panel.

     I'm sure one question you're about to ask is "what type of coolant should I use?" The Porsche factory manuals indicate that the coolant used inside the Boxster engines should be considered a “lifetime” fluid, and mixing regular fluid with this life-time fluid is not recommended. I prefer to use the Porsche factory coolant in my cars. At $35 a gallon, it can be somewhat more expensive than generic coolant, but the Porsche coolant is not premixed. Plan on using about 19 liters (5 gallons) of coolant for cars without a center radiator (all 1997-04 Boxster). The 2005-08 cars and the Boxster S take about 22 liters (6 gallons) of coolant. Add one more liter as well if you have an automatic transmission. If ordering coolant for your flush job, I would be sure to order an extra gallon: you might need them to top off down the road, and the Porsche OEM coolant can be difficult to find in a pinch. The part number for a one gallon (3.79 liter) container is 000-043-301-05-M100, and it costs about $35 per gallon from PelicanParts.com.

This photo shows a picture of the thermostat area of a BMW cylinder head that has been partially damaged by electrolysis.
Figure 1
This photo shows a picture of the thermostat area of a BMW cylinder head that has been partially damaged by electrolysis. Notice how the aluminum has been eaten away, and eroded by the chemical/electrical reactions. The process works somewhat like electrical discharge machines (EDM). These machines work by passing a large electrical current through metal, literally zapping away bits of material until nothing remains. Unfortunately, the electrolysis process works in a similar way, zapping bits of metal in proportion to the amount of electrical current passing through the coolant. A poorly grounded starter can literally destroy a radiator or head within a matter of weeks, depending upon how often the car is started. A smaller current drain, like an electric cooling fan, may slowing erode components over many months.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
This photo shows the coolant drain plug (yellow arrow), and the hoses that need to be disconnected in order to empty the coolant from the system.
Figure 2
This photo shows the coolant drain plug (yellow arrow), and the hoses that need to be disconnected in order to empty the coolant from the system. Green arrow - Return hose from the front radiators. Orange arrow - thermostat housing and supplies coolant to the front radiators. Red and purple arrows: heater supply / return lines. The white arrow shows the radiator vent hose which should not need to be disconnected.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
I personally like to use the Porsche factory coolant, which is a bit more expensive, but specially formulated for the cars.
Figure 3
I personally like to use the Porsche factory coolant, which is a bit more expensive, but specially formulated for the cars. However, if you use a standard off-the-shelf coolant that meets or exceeds the factory's specifications, then that should suffice as well. The red arrow points to the coolant level indicator on the side of the tank. The photo inset shows the “trap door” panel that hides the bleeder valve underneath.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
The coolant bleeder valve has a small metal clip on it.
Figure 4
The coolant bleeder valve has a small metal clip on it. Flip the clip upwards to open the valve so that you can bleed the coolant system.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
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Comments and Suggestions:
Buck Comments: I have a 1999 Porsche Boxster. I recently noticed a fluid leak on the floor of my garage where I park the Boxster. The leak appears to be coming from the cap on the coolant reservoir located in trunk. Last week I brought the car to the tecnician that works on my car. The technician removed approximately 1 pint of coolant. The reading on the reservoir was between recommeded max and min. Yesterday the red idiot light flashing came on. Drove car home and parked it, checked for leakage under car, and found none. This morning I checked reservoir and found it was below the min. mark by approximately what the technician had removed. It, again, appeared as though there was leakage around the reservoir cap. Is the cap the reason for the leakage or is this possiby a sympton of a larger problem?

Thanks,
Marc
August 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is easy to pressure test the cap to be sure. Ask your mechanic or a local parts store to test it. If it blows off before the specified pressure, replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
987Boxster Comments: "Followup from the Pelican Staff: What you have here is a 987-2 style tank, which is used on the Cayman and 2007 and later 987 cars. There is no bleed plug on this one, you need to pull a vacuum on the system in order to bleed it. I probably need to do a tech article on this sometime in the very near future."

Wayne, did you ever do this article? I have a 2008 Boxster, and don't have the bleeder valve either. Can you explain what the procedure is what tools are required to do it right? Thanks.
June 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This tech article has not been created yet. As soon as we get the chance we will document the process. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rick Comments: I changed out the cooling tank and drained out the old coolant what a job, filling it back up could only get about 3 gallons back in following your directions, I have the bleeder valve open and it would run over 180 degrees would not take any more coolant what can I do?
June 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Once it reaches operating temp, let engine cool back down. Then open bleeder and try to fill it with more coolant. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rick Comments: I drained about 5 gallons out but it only took about 3 1/2 and got to 180 and I shut it down. How can I get it to take the rest.
June 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to bleed the cooling system, follow the steps in this procedure.

I find the best way to get it filled is a vacuum filler. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Rick Comments: I have a 1999 Boxster and the owner's manual say's 50% coolant and 50% distelled water. You say 5 gallons of coolant but did not mention distelled water. What do you recommend?
June 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe the 5 gallons assumes a 50/50 mix. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
dougler Comments: Hi,

An update to my earlier post. I decided to pull the carpet up in my boot in order to see if there was any coolant leakage. Thankfully there wasn't but what there was, is a sort of dried residue which seems to be originating from the top of one of the hoses that connects to the coolant tank.

This would lead me to think there was a leak, albeit very small and coming from a pipe or pipe clip rather than the tank itself.

That said, I'm taking it into my local Porsche garage tomorrow to have them give me their expert opinion.

Cheers,

Doug
June 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
dougler Comments: Hi,

I recently bought a 98 Boxster. After having it for a day or so, I noticed that the coolant low warning light was flashing so I topped up with a little distilled water and the light stopped flashing.

However, after only about 2-3 weeks, i've noticed that when I first start the car, on the odd occasion, the warning light flashes again, but if I stop the car, turn the engine off and restart the car, the light stops flashing.

The car had a major service 6,000 miles ago, but according to the log book that was over 10 years ago. Which means it's entirely possible the oil and coolant haven't been changed in a very long time.

Would you suggest I take it into Porsche garage to have a minor service with an Oil and Coolant change and see if that resolves the problem before I spend ££ on having them find out if there's a problem with the coolant tank and/or sensor?

Cheers,

Doug.
June 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There could be a leak. I would check the level again, top up if needed, Then pressure test the cooling system. If it hasn't been serviced, it is a good idea to get that done also. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MannyV Comments: 1998 Boxster colgante leakage. Thank you Nick. I already fondo that leakage was due to a broken heater valve connection. The inlet plastic pipe broke in two pieces. Think is the original heater valve so I believe it valid do to age. Iner passages are clean with no any deposits. Same on the hoses. Been using Porsche coolant at 50/50 with distilled water always. Will replace it this coming long weekend. Thanks again.
May 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
MannyV Comments: Hi, I have a 1998 Boxster Base with auto tiptronic transmission and 107,600 miles. Car runs great and I am not of the speeding type of guy. Today the light at the thermometer started blinking, no overheat, engine was idling when it happened. Stop the engine to go check coolant level at the reservoir and found a river of coolant running from down the car, look down there but could not see the exact point of leakage. It is somewhere between the rear of the transmission and the exhaust. Brought car home on a flatbed truck. Once at home I started the engine without any problem. Make a short run and check that speeds change smooth as usual. Refilled system and took one gallon to MAX but it spilled out again. Need to jack it up to check what went broke. Any suggestion where to look?
May 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check the coolant hoses that run along the rear of the engine and the heat exchanger. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
WPE Comments: My bleed valve is leaking somewhere around the screws. Why is this and what do I need to do to fix it? Or where do and how do I replace it.1999 boxster
February 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the bleeder is leaking, you have to replace it. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
MG Comments: Hi
I have a 2000 year 2.7 boxster, that developed a leak from the header tank 3 pipe plastic manifold engine side... going to drill out as mentioned elsewhere on her and run longer pipes through to the header tank.
The problem is the car got very hot which caused the leak I think but I didn't hear any fans engine or rads working, what do I look at/test to see if they are working?
Regards Mark
January 26, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can use a scan tool to command the fans on. You can also let the vehicle warm up, at idle when the temp rises, the fans should come on.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
AMF Comments: What is the part number for the plastic support clasps on the 2 large coolant hoses hose from thermostat housing and hose from oil pump/water housing on the 1999 Porsche Boxster. They both cracked as I changed the two hoses.
December 10, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Steve Comments: Hi again
i have now replaced the valve and cap but the bleed valve still opens when warm? i do not understand why it shouldnt open when warm as it takes little effort to open it when i had it apart ,the engine runs a constant temp with no over heating probs
December 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are you referring to the overpressure valve in the radiator cap? It should not open except under extreme high temperature conditions--bu then that means there is something wrong. If it opens easily the cap is defective.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
Steve Comments: Hi ,my Boxster bleed valve is constantly open when the engine is warm ,it closes when cold ,is this correct ?
November 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The valve should be closed and in this position. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Hurdigurdiman Comments: The Boxster six cylinder engines will hold between 4-6 gallons, so make sure that whatever container you use is capable of holding all of that coolant.
That seems kike a very strange statement... Is it not known exactly how much is needed in the system???????????????
October 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: They hold a little under 6 gallons. However, I think when draining it is tough to get it all out. So that may be why it is listed as 4-6. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dan Comments: Ok Nick in regard to the refill comment but I see a comment by Wayne at the bottom of page where he states you can ad water and coolant separately..Can someone clarify?
October 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I suppose this is preference. I always mix coolant before I fill it. I live in a cold climate and want to know the coolant and water are at the correct ratio and mixture before adding it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dan Comments: Sorry for all the questions..Is it mandatory to change the o-ring?
October 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, I would change the O-ring each time the part is removed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dan Comments: Sorry the comment for the torquing the bolts was for the Water pump thread
October 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem, we're here to help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dan Comments: Also..Is it mandatory to tighten the bolts to 7lbs. I don't have a small torque wrench..In fact I can hardly fit my small ratchet in some the tight spots and I'm force to use a small wrench. I tighten the bolts just at the point where the bolts won't turn anymore..Will this suffice? Again Thanks.
October 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that is the torque for the fasteners. No way around it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dan Comments: Hi I have a 2002 Boxster S. I have read through this tech article. My question is when refilling do I put 2 1/2 gallons of Porsche coolant and 2 1/2 gallons of distilled water?? And what order as well? A gallon of coolant first then a gallon of water and so fourth ? Please help..Thanks!!
October 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, I would start by mixing one gallon of coolant and one gallon of distilled water. Fill the cooling system with the pre-mixed coolant. As you bleed the system, top it up with pre-mixed coolant. Try to avoid adding unmixed coolant. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rex11078 Comments: i be like to ask i have a 986S the coolant was low after i put back the coolant and the car wont move why?
September 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does you engine run? Did it overheat? i would figure out where the coolant went. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rp Comments: Looking for a good Porsche independent shop to get maintanance and repairs on a 2001 Boxster S ,in the San Diego area in calif
September 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'd contact a few local Porsche owners or the local chapter of PCNA, they can provide better insight then me.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
andre Comments: Hi, I have a 98 porche boxter that i bought last year.
The car seems slugish to start and when I drive it for bit and the engine is hot it's even harder to start it can take two to three tries.
August 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you may have a faulty head gasket. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
flo Comments: Is it Ok to run a porsche boxter at 190 deg?
Before changing thermastat it ran at 180...
August 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you are going by the dash gauge, at times they are not very accurate. i would check the actual temp using a thermometer.

If the engine is running hotter and you installed a factory spec thermostat, you might air trapped in the system. Try bleeding the cooling system again. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
David Comments: Please HELP!
I have a Porsche boxster s 2001 that I will be buying used. The owner told me that the collant is not working and needs new coolant. He said the engine gets really hot when running and when it gets to hot it stops automatically. How am I suppose to fix this problem? How much will it cost me in repair? Should I buy the car or walk away from the offer?
Many thanks in advance and please answer ASAP, its urgent!
August 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This sounds like the vehicle is overheating. It could be a major problem, like a head gasket. I would take the vehicle to a Porsche repair shop for a pre-buy inspection before you purchase it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Edi Comments: Hi,

Will the coolant reservoir of 2005/06 Boxster fit the 2001 Porsche Boxster ?

Thanks,

Edi
July 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't think so.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
pepe Comments: Hi Wayne.I have just had my Boxster s 2000 Serviced i also had the coolant System Drained the Problem i have is the engine overheats when the engine is running it shows 90 when you turn the engine off it shows 120 i have also noticed that there is a lot of air when you remove the filler cap filler cap do i need to bleed the system .
July 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes. Porsche service procedure uses a vacuum fill but you need to have the tool and a compressed air source. This will take a decent amount of time to bleed - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Wendell Comments: I suspect I have a coolant tank lid leak the fill lid in the trunk, not the expansion tank lid in my 2008 Boxster S. After a 5 hour drive and then sitting the night the low coolant light came on when I went to start it. The coolant was 1.5 liters low and there was some white residue and a couple of drops of coolant in the rubber fill boot. The cap and gasket look ok, but I suspect they were leaking. Any experience with this? The cap seems rather cheaply made.
June 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I have seen caps leak, they wear out over time. I would pressure test your cooling system, including the cap. This way you can be sure there are no leaks. A coolant leak can cause an engine overheating condition, leading to engine damage. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CB Comments: Dear Pelican, How do I make sure that I do not have air in the system. I really do not want to take to the dealer!! 2000 Boxster S.
May 27, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See figure 4 in this tech article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/29-WATER-Flush/29-WATER-Flush.htm The bleeder screw mentioned there has to be opened when filling the cooling system - Nick at Pelican Parts  
CB Comments: When putting the car on jack stands to do this job should the front end be at the same level? Both ends on stands?
April 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You want the vehicle as level as possible when filling and bleeding the cooling system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BoxsterGeek Comments: Somehow the waterpump on my 02 Boxster came loose, and coolant started leaking. To be safe, I replaced it with a new waterpump. After I installed he waterpump, the temp gauge does not move and the temp red light keeps blinking. I've topped off the coolant. Has anyone else experienced this issue and how was it remedied? Thank You
March 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You possibly still have air in the cooling system causing the gauge not to read. Also check the connection to the coolant temp sender. I would not recommend driving your Boxster until proper gauge readings are achieved.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
John Comments: Wayne, I have a question re my 2000 Boxster. The expansion tank developed a leak/crack, and was replaced by Porsche service. After replacement it was running hotter than before all driving conditions and I kept loosing coolant. Once it dumped coolant from new tank and other time tank was completely empty. Porsche said they have no idea was caused it, but they replaced temp sensor and thermostat, and now we think it is okay ~100mi since. Any ideas?
February 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I suspect when the coolant tank failed your boxster overheated and damaged the thermostat. It sounds like replacing the thermostat cured your porblem. I would recommend watching your temp gauge and checking your coolant level. After driving 100 miles with no issues it sounds like your problem is resolved.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
M. G. Comments: I have a recently purchased 1997 Boxster, currently with about 49,000 miles. My low coolant warning light came on immediately the last time I went to start the car last week. I live in New England and it was between 30 and 40 degrees that morning, though I've driven in similar temperatures with no issues. Shut down and restarted, still flashing, so I parked it. I saw no puddles around the car where it has been parked, and the coolant appeared to be right around the Min mark on the tank, but looking at it again later it appears that it is indeed below Min. It appears the green coolant that this car would have come with has been phased out and the only thing that can be found around now is the pink one. What is in my car is green. I have not serviced my coolant system yet since I bought it, and I don't want to assume that what's in my tank from the previous owner is green Porsche coolant. Do I need to do anything aside from the instructions in the 101 Projects book for servicing the coolant system before refilling with the pink coolant? I just want to be on the safe side and ensure that there is no old fluid that might possibly react with the pink coolant. Thanks for all that you do for the Porsche community!
January 15, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No matter how hard you try, he will never be able to get 100% of the old coolant out of your car's went system when you change the fluid. Although I don't recommend mixing colors, type, or brands of coolant, when you replace all the coolant in your cooling system, there is almost no way to avoid some mixing of the old coolant with the new coolant. In general, there isn't much to worry about. The linking light on your dashboard indicates that you have a low coolant level. Keep an eye on it – if the coolant continues to disappear without any obvious leaks, then you may have a head gasket issue to deal with in the future. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Andy Comments: Any idea where replacement factory spring hose clips can be found to replace the originals?. I have a special tool used for the spring clips which makes using these very easy.
January 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you're looking for the factory radiator hose clips, then we can special order those for you. Give one of our sales reps a call at 888 – 280 – 7799 and they can look those up for you. The factory clips are interesting. I originally thought they were a cheap solution to the older style clamps, but I was recently educated on the fact that because they are spring-loaded they apply a uniform pressure across the circumference of the hose no matter what temperature the hose gets. In other words they apply uniform pressure under almost all varying conditions. I still like to use the older style clamps, but these also work just as well - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Merb55 Comments: Once in a while when I turn off my 2001 boxster S, coolant begins to flow out of the rear. There were not panel indication that the car was overheating. Any suggestions?
December 10, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try a new radiator cap, maybe it cannot hold the pressure during the heat soak. Also you may have to bleed air out of the system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bobby Comments: My 2001 boxster showed the low coolant red light, then I filled the tank with 1 gallon of Porsche coolant and 1 gallon of water - car ran about 1000 miles 2 months time elapsed and now the low coolant light is back on. What should I do - do I fill in 3 gallons coolant + 3 gallons water? Or is this a slow leak?
October 2, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a slow leak. Can you pressure test the system and look for the leak. You may have a bad head gasket and are burning the coolant in combustion. Do you see signs of coolant leaking on the engine somewhere? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
elhawary Comments: I replaced the 2 radiators in my boxter 97, and still the heat is up over 200 degrees, i see no leaking but suspecting the fan. is there a way to adjust the pressure in the radiator or to adjust the water circulation cooling. i also begun to hear some disturbing noise when transmitting knowing my boxter is a tip-tronic model
September 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Maybe you have a bad water pump or the thermostat could be sticking closed. Does the system have air trapped in it? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Pancho Comments: Good afternoon,

Would you be kind to tell me where the bleeding valve for the cooling system in a 97 2.5 Boxster is?

The check engine light is on and is telling me that we have misfire cylinder numbers 1 & 4, but coil and spark plug look ok to me. What could it be?

Many thanks for your prompt reply,

Pancho
June 17, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The coolant bleeder valve is located on top of the coolant reservoir. it is alever you flip up.

I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If there is am isfire, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing. if spark and fuel are Ok, check engine compression. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ruben Comments: Wayne,
Thanks for your time and the super fast reply! Should I replenish the coolant I took out with what coolant? or can I just put back the one I took out? It looks red enough and with a somewhat more "watery" consistency than normal...but not even soapy.
May 28, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would replace it with new Porsche coolant, just to be safe. We sell that here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/986M/POR_986M_WATmis_pg2.htm#item9 - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Ruben Comments: Hi! I have a 2005 Boxster S. I asked my son to refill the windshield washer but told him the wrong trunk...he poured about half to 3/4 gallon of windshield washer fluid in the coolant reservoir. I noticed when I got a warning and asked him...wrong reservoir...HELP! What should I do? I have actually driven the car around 200 miles already. I emptied the reservoir with a vacuum pump and extracted about a gallon's worth of reddish liquid. It is indeed coolant but has the liquified consistency.
May 27, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmmm. To be 100% safe, you could simply flush out the coolant as detailed in the article. However, windshield water fluid is mostly water, as is coolant. If it were my car, I would probably leave it for the short term, and plan to do a coolant flush in the near future. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jeroen Comments: The coolant bleeder valve is sticking out / opens up by itself when the car is heated up. I had a coolant leak, renewed radiators and water pump. No overheating though. I checked the coolant for CO several times. Seems to be ok. I don't think there is excessive pressure in the tank.
Is it normal for the bleeder valve to come up when the car is warmed up ?
May 24, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When checking the cooling system for combustion gas, you test for co2, not co. I would run the test again before making any decisions. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sailman Comments: 2002 Boxster S drove 50 miles no issue. Stopped to buy a bulb and 5 mins later Red overheat on temp came on, white smoke and coolant dump. I am assuming a thermostat ordered but when I tried pressure testing coolant seems to be coming out just above the right diff can't see exact location ie under reservoir. Should I be looking for another problem?
April 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be a coolant hose leak or the engine oil heat exchanger. Try using a mirror when you pressure test the system to pinpoint the source. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bobatious Comments: Wondered what the actual chemistry of the Porsche coolant is; and specifically if it is like or identical to the G12/G12++ coolants used in other late model VAG VW,Audi,other cars.

This G12 style coolant is pink/purple and also claimed "lifetime", hybrid-OAT type, FWIW. This is also not cheap, but at least many more dealers and parts suppliers have this - as contrasted to Porsche dealers.
December 31, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Well, Porsche is an assembler of cars, not a chemical company, so I would suspect they buy something that is formulated and used somewhere else. Which company it is, well, that probably varies over the years depending upon specifications and pricing. They might have a specific formula and then sub-contract it out to be manufactured. The reality is that any good, modern coolant will work, although the Genuine Porsche coolant is priced only a little bit more than off-the-shelf stuff, so I typically recommend using the factory stuff. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bala Comments: Hi Wayne,
New 2000 Boxster S 3.2 owner. Topped coolant with Prestone 50/50 pre diluted antifreeze~1/2 quart max. Drove about 2-3 miles after. I'm planning to replace the coolant with Porsche spec. Do I need to flush the system with a cleaner/detergent or just plain distilled water before refilling it? Thanks.
December 24, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Flushing with distilled water is a good idea - probably not necessary, but certainly is a good practice. In general, I don't like to mix different brands of coolant, but if you empty the whole system out, then you should be okay going from one to another. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bert17 Comments: Wayne question replaced my water pump. Went to refill with coolant and bleed the system. It only took 2 and 1/2 gallons instead of the 5. When I started the car the temperature gauge does not move. No hot air comes out of the vents when I turn the heat on. Do you think it could be just a bad thermostat or do I have air in the system? Porsche Boxster S 2006
June 9, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: How much water came out of the system when you replaced the water pump - that's a good measure of how much you should put in. It's not uncommon for only about 1/2 of the coolant to flow out when you remove the water pump. It does sound like you have a massive set of air bubbles in the coolant system though - I would rebleed the system again - remember to turn the heat on when doing that... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jville Comments: Hi Wayne, my Boxster run fine for 10 miles then when I'm ready to put it in reverse and park it, it want to overheat. I slowly release the pressure with the coolant cap and then it started slowly spew out, what could be the problem?
May 24, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Odd, I don't completely understand. However, I will take a wild guess that you have a leak in your coolant system somewhere. If the compressed air / coolant in the system is allowed to leak out, then the total pressure of the coolant system will decrease and the coolant will boil over at close to the boiling point of water. Keeping the system properly pressurized (no leaks) means that you can run higher temps with the coolant before it starts to turn into a gas (and then it no longer cools). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Tony Comments: sorry to bother you again wayne but still cant find the bleed cap for the coolent to fill more coolant. I have taken of the filler caps oil n water and removed the cover but it just shows the metal bulk head not any bleed valve they are on the side not like your photo. Help were is it cant fill the coolant without bleeding system. 07 boster 2.7 engine thanks Tony
May 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What you have here is a 987-2 style tank, which is used on the Cayman and 2007 and later 987 cars. There is no bleed plug on this one, you need to pull a vacuum on the system in order to bleed it. I probably need to do a tech article on this sometime in the very near future.  
Teknow Comments: Hi Wayne, bought you book in the UK and have to say it is very useful. First time mechanic and so far I've got the car on axle stands, drained the old coolant and removed both radiators.

My car is a 2000 Boxster S.

One question, I couldn't get either if the radiator hoses off the bottom of the engine. They are really hard to shift ... Any ideas? Do I need to worry f I have removed both radiators anyway?

Likewise, I only managed to remove one of the heater hoses from the engine. Got 2 litres or so of fluid out but couldn't shift the other hose!



May 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the hoses are really hard and stiff, then it might be time to replace them. If you cant move or budge them, then simply cut them with a razor blade and replace them with new ones. That's what I'd recommend. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
chichomeyer Comments: Hi, I was just trying out this procedure and the firt time I had to open the coolant cap, a lot of preassure came out and water started spilling out. Does this mean I have a blown gasket? I don't get any milkshake-like substance. Thanks.
May 4, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Nope, it just means that the car was either overfilled or there was an air bubble, or it may have been pressurized too much. I would just follow the procedure and not worry about it. It's happened to me before as well too. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
lou Comments: Wayne, I have a 2006 Boxster and attempting to flush the coolant. I need help looking for the drain plug. The book indicates where it is located but in my 2006, there seems to be a different set up.
April 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Whoops, I made an error here - there is no drain plug on these later 987 cars. You need to disconnect the radiator hoses. I have some images from the Porsche documentation I have, I have posted them here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/601935-where-987-coolant-drain-plug.html - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Tony Comments: Hi wayne sorry to sound dumb but on the 987 boxster is the bleed valve in the same place as your photo shows the older boxster. I have changed the radiators but cant get any more that 10 liters in because i havent found the bleed valve. please advise need help think i have bit off more than i can handle Tony
March 30, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, actually I do get asked this question quite a bit. The 986 and 987 have the same setup, and the bleed valve is in the same spot on the cars. Read through the article again carefully, you need to remove the access panel off of the top of the tank in order to see the bleeder valve underneath. It's under the plastic that you see when you open the trunk and look at the radiator and oil fill caps. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Paul Singh Comments: Hi Wayne, great doc.. My car is over heating, I've recently changed the passenger radiator and topped up on coolant. Cars over heating and the rads are staying cold. Any idea what this could be? Do you think I might have air locks in the system?
February 6, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, you could have air trapped in the system, I would bleed and then rebleed again. It also sounds like the thermostat may not be opening properly. The factory procedure for bleeding involves applying a positive pressure to the radiator cap (the coolant reservoir cap), but that is often not necessary. I would continue to bleed the system again and again according to the instructions in the article, and it should go away. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
carbon Comments: Hi. I need some help. I replaced both rad. fan assemblys.Both fans work when air con. in auto but do not operate when air con. off and temp at 190 or higher. Ideas as to what else needs replacing
September 20, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Revised: The fans in the Boxster don't come on until about 207 degrees, I believe. Porsche wanted the engines to run hotter so that it would boil off the excess water in the oil (this is my guess), and lead to longer oil life changes. So, it sounds like it's operating normally. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
brucelong Comments: BTW - in the older Boxsters it suggests unplugging the tiptronic fuse "B1" to do the air bleeding. In the newer 987s, fuse B1 doesn't seem to be associated to the tiptronic at all according to the diagram. Do you know if this procedure still applies to 987s 2006 and up? If so, do you know which fuse should be pulled? Thanks. Bruce
August 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I checked the factory documentation and I couldn't find any reference to removing the fuse on the later cars. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
brucelong Comments: Oh the temp error was reset easily by my Porsche diag OBDII tool and works fine now. No temp overheating, no white smoke, and no more milkshake - go figure.
August 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
brucelong Comments: Wayne - thanks for the follow-up. I thoroughly flushed the engine with a little dish detergent I read about on the other posts and refilled with clean Porsche and water mixture. After several hundred miles still clean. No problems and car runs great. Only thing I can imagine is someone mistakenly put oil into the coolant side by mistake.

Oh the temp error was reset easily by my Porsche diag OBDII tool and works fine now. No temp overheating, no white smoke, and no more milkshake - go figure.

Thanks again. Bruce
August 31, 2010
brucelong Comments: Hi Wayne I didn't have any Porsche coolant with me so added regular Prestone. When I ran the engine I noticed almost a milkshake like substance. Are there any incompatibility issues. The car only has 44,000 miles and driven by my wife, so I can't believe it could be a serious head gasket problem. Otherwise it drives great. Only one other thing is that I'm getting a temp sensor error too, and the temp gauge doesn't go up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would hate to take it into the dealer.
August 15, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Milkshake like substance means almost certainly that oil and water are mixing, either through the head gasket, or a cracked cylinder head liner. The temp gauge is probably not related to this issue, but you never know. If you take it to the dealer, they will probably tell you that you need a new engine. Sorry, but this doesn't look like good news. There is almost no circumstance that I can think of when coolant and oil mix where it's an easy fix. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
JJ Comments: Wayne,

Not able to locate this washer or plug anywhere, even at my local Porsche dealership? Can you provide the catalog number so I can order these parts from Pelican?

Thanks,
John
July 28, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: John,
We will add these to the online catalog. I believe these are the parts you are looking for:

900-219-007-02-OEM coolant plug
900-123-144-30-M131 sealing ring

- Scott at Pelican Parts
 
JJ Comments: Wayne,

You've been a great help and I have one more questions before I change out my coolant. Can't find anyone that sells the crush washer for the coolant plug? Your instructions state that it should be replaced, can I get this part on Pelican or AutoZone?

Thanks,
John
July 27, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We sell this in the catalog, but yes, it's not a very special washer, and you should be able to find it almost anywhere. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
John Comments: Wayne,

Since my car holds between 4 to 5 gallons automatic, I just purchase 3 gallons of coolant from Pelican.

Thanks,
John
July 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that should be enough then, as the Porsche coolant is not pre-mixed (you add 1/2 water). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
JJ Comments: Great document and I plan on replacing my coolant soon. 1999 Boxster automatic. Just one question. 6 gallons of Porsche coolant, any mixture with water? Since Porsche does not provide a premix, do I need to add water?

Thanks,
JJ
July 18, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that's correct. The factory Porsche coolant is not pre-mixed, so you add 1/2 distilled water to the mix when you're adding it to the car. You can pour in a liter of coolant, and then a liter of distilled water - no need to mix them beforehand. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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