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Pelican Technical Article:

Fuel Pump Replacement

Time:

2 hrs

Tab:

$300

Talent:

***

Tools:

Oil filter wrench, battery charger

Applicable Models:

Porsche 986 Boxster (1997-04)
Porsche 986 Boxster S (2000-04)
Porsche 987 Boxster (2005-08)
Porsche 987 Boxster S (2005-08)

Parts Required:

Fuel pump, o-ring, sending unit

Hot Tip:

Jumper the relay to empty the tank

Performance Gain:

More reliable fuel system

Complementary Modification:

Replace battery
101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster. The book contains 312 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 950+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any Boxster owner's collection. The book is currently available and in stock now. See The Official Book Website for more details.

Some common fuel injection problems can be traced back to a faulty or non-operational fuel pump. If your pump is noisy and loud, or the fuel pressure in the engine compartment is below what is needed for proper fuel injection operation, then it's probably time to replace it. The fuel pump is a not as simple a device as one might think. The fuel actually runs through the pump and acts as a coolant and lubricant for the entire assembly. Therefore, if you let your car run out of gas, make sure that you turn off the pump immediately, or you might damage the internal components of the pump. Trust me - not much is worse than a broken or faulty pump leaving you stranded on the side of the road.

Typical fuel pump problems can sometimes be headed off in advance. If the pump is noisy, and making loud clicking noises, then chances are that the bearings inside are worn and should be replaced. If the pump continues to make noise even after the ignition is shut off, internal check-valves in the pump may be showing signs of failure. The pump could seize up at some time, or the pressure to the fuel injection system could drop. Either way, the car will not be performing at its peak. Another symptom of failure is the pump getting stuck, and then finally kicking in after turning the ignition on and off a couple of times. This could be a clear sign that you are living on borrowed time, and that you should replace the pump immediately. Check the electrical connections to the pump before you replace it to make sure that it's not an electrical problem.

The first step in replacement is to prep the car. Remove as much gasoline out of the car as possible (see photos). Some warnings too:

  • Always have a fire extinguisher handy in case an emergency arises.
     
  • Gasoline is highly flammable. When working around fuel and fuel line connections, don't disconnect any wires or electrical connections that may cause electrical sparks.
     
  • Always remove the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the tank prior to working on the fuel system.
     
  • Do not use a work lamp when working near fuel or fuel tanks. If you need some light, use a cool fluorescent lamp and keep it far away from the pump.
     
  • Gasoline vapors are strong, harmful, and can cause you to become drowsy and not think straight. Always perform work in a well-ventilated area with plenty of fresh air blowing through.
     
  • Always disconnect the battery when working on the fuel system. Leave it disconnected for at least 30 minutes to allow any residual electrical charge in components to dissipate.
     
  • Keep plenty of paper towels on hand, and wear rubber gloves to prevent spilling gasoline on your hands
     
  • Be well grounded - don't do anything that will create static electricity. Keep all cell phones and pagers a safe distance away.
     
  • Run the car so that the gas tank is near empty, and then remove the remaining fuel as detailed in Figure 1

The first step is to remove the battery from the car (see Pelican Technical Article: Battery Disconnect Switch / Battery Buddy Installation). The lower battery tray acts as both a retaining platform for the battery and a cover for the fuel pump area. Underneath this tray, you will see the top of the fuel tank sending unit. Disconnect the connector that mates with the sender. Now, squeeze and disconnect the fuel lines & breather hose that feed into the top of the unit. There might be some small gas spillage here - have a roll of absorbent paper towels on hand. You might want to find an old pen to carefully plug the lines to prevent further leaks. If there is any fuel in your tank, now would be an excellent time to empty it (see Figure 1 and Figure 2).

The sender is held in place by the big circular disc with the risers on it. There is a special tool that is used to remove and tighten this black plastic ring. However, with a large flathead screwdriver or chisel and a small hammer, you can easily tap the plastic ring loose. Carefully remove the ring from the top of the sender.

Now comes the fun part. Make sure that you are prepared at this stage, with a heavily ventilated garage, plenty of paper towels, and rubber gloves. Pull up on the top of the sender, and the entire assembly should come right out of the tank (Figure 3). There is a big, thick o-ring that seals the pump to the tank: grab it and put it off to the side. See Photo 4 and Photo 5 for instructions on removal of the pump.

When reinstalling the pump into the car, make sure that the fuel hoses inside the tank don't interfere with the proper operation of the fuel tank sender. I found that my sender was getting stuck and the problem was the hoses. The solution was to open the tank up again, and zip tie the hoses out of the way. I would verify that they don't interfere with the movement of the sender before you button everything back up.

I recommend that you replace the large sealing ring with a new one. If you do opt to reuse the old one, and it doesn't seal well, you might be plagued with a fuel smell in the car from that point on. Make sure that the big o-ring is properly sealed around the outside of the pump and will seal with the opening of the tank. Spin on the large circular ring and use the hammer/screwdriver tapping procedure to tighten it. I tightened mine about as tight as I could get it without feeling that I would break the ring. Reconnect the fuel hoses and the electrical connector.

Reinstall and connect the battery after all fumes have subsided. Then crank the car over and see if it starts. If the car starts and runs for any length of time then the pump is working fine.

This photo shows a safe method for emptying the gas out of the tank in your Boxster.
Figure 1

This photo shows a safe method for emptying the gas out of the tank in your Boxster. Disconnect the pressure side hose from the top of the pump and connect some clear plastic tubing to the barb (yellow arrow). Carefully connect the car's battery terminals up to a 12-volt supply, making sure that you wrap and insulate both terminals carefully. Jumper the relay in the driver's side foot well, (see Figure 2), turn on the ignition, and the pump should turn on and begin to pump fuel into your tank. Watch the level carefully, and shut the pump off when the external tank fills up, or when the Boxster's fuel tank runs dry.

This photo shows the relay panel under the driver's side foot well.
Figure 2

This photo shows the relay panel under the driver's side foot well. The fuel pump is not normally turned on unless the engine is running, but you can remove the relay and bypass it using a simple jumper wire as shown here. Remove the fuel pump relay (shown in the inset) and then jumper pins 30 and 87 (typically labeled 3 and 5 on the relay panel). This will cause the fuel pump to turn on automatically when you turn the key in the ignition.

Once you remove the battery and the lower tray/cover, you will see the top of the tank and the fuel sender.
Figure 3

Once you remove the battery and the lower tray/cover, you will see the top of the tank and the fuel sender. Squeeze the fuel line connectors and remove them along with the vent hose and the electrical connections (lower left). Use a large chisel and a medium-sized hammer to carefully tap on the outer ring that holds the fuel pump in place (upper left). It should turn and loosen up with a few taps. With the ring loose, pull out the fuel tank sending unit, and you should be able to carefully squeeze and remove the fuel supply hoses that attach to the bottom. When you reinstall the sending unit, be sure to line up the big arrow (blue arrow) with the three lines on the tank (green arrow).

The upper left inset shows the fuel pump sitting inside the empty fuel tank.
Figure 4

The upper left inset shows the fuel pump sitting inside the empty fuel tank. I had a really difficult time removing the pump from the bottom of the tank. Supposedly you should be able to simply turn it with your hands and unlock it from the bottom, but my grip wasn't strong enough. Instead, I used a rubber oil-filter wrench to carefully wrap around the circumference of the pump. One solid twist of the tool, and the pump came free of its locking site on the bottom of the tank.

Installation is pretty straightforward.
Figure 5

Installation is pretty straightforward. A- The red arrow shows the circular locking ring that the bottom of the fuel pump snaps into with a twist. This secures the pump to the bottom of the fuel tank. B- Shown here is the new pump installed. It looks slightly different than the original, but it's functionally equivalent. C- With the new pump in place, install the fuel tank sending unit into the top of the tank. Be sure to connect the hoses from the pump to the bottom of the unit. D- Shown here is the new pump installed with the new sending unit all buttoned up and ready for testing. Be sure to put some fuel back into the tank prior to starting the fuel pump up.

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Comments and Suggestions:
RP Comments: Clarification - I am replacing the Fuel Sending Unit ONLY. The Fuel Pump remains intact. Will I need to have someone recalibrate for a replaced fuel sending unit?
November 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RP Comments: You make no mention of calibration of the fuel sender. Does the sender need to be recalibrated? I would like to avoid having to have someone recalibrate it if possible. What must I do? I am replacing only the Fuel Sending Unit.
September 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It does not need to be calibrated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RP Comments: You make no mention of calibration of the fuel sender. Does the sender need to be recalibrated? I would like to avoid having to have someone recalibrate it if possible. What must I do?
September 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It does not need to be calibrated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Scott Comments: Thanks for the write-up, it helped me do this on the side of the road during a road trip. I made it home fine, but I smelled fuel before too long. I attributed this to the dealer not having a new gasket to go with the pump. I replaced the gasket when I got home, and it now seems that wasn't the issue. Fuel is leaking from vertical quick-connect fitting. I verified this by removing the battery and powering via jumper cables, as you recommend for draining. The fuel started leaking as soon as the line was pressurized. I'm hoping I misplaced an o-ring? Otherwise, do you have any suggestions on stopping that leak and do you know how far back that line runs/if it's replaceable? Thanks again, I also used your write-up for the IMS bearing. Helped a TON.
July 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's possible the O-ring fell out, but I don't think it is available as a part. Most likely you will need a line. Inspect the line for small hole or damage. Sometimes they will fail and leak. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
808Alan Comments: Any one know what voltage should be measured at the fuel pump connector? Reading 5V with connector disconnected, pump relay jumpered and ignition on.
July 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Battery volts. You may have a voltage drop. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Migliore Comments: My 1999 Boxster project car took s bit longer to complete than expected. Isn't that always the case? The fuel in the tank was 16 months old and I didn't want to take any chances. This write up saved the day. I drained 10 gallons out without spilling more than a couple of drops. Thank you!
May 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
cr Comments: Boxster 2001 - replaced fuel pump and relay. Now remote key is not working. Any thoughts? Key flashes red when pressed, not communicating with car.
January 26, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Don't see the relation. Try a second key to see if the key you have has failed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Pete03S Comments: Hi everyone, just finished this job on a 2003 Boxster S with 75,000 miles. My symptoms were intermittent but occasionally loud noise coming from the gas tank fill tube. Sounded like a dying cow. Note the S is a little different, no return line and also the fittings are in slightly different locations. But basically the same. Note you will have to disconnect electrical plug on sending unit before you can remove it. BTW, great write up Pelican, thanks.
January 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mike D Comments: hi sorry mike D again should have said in line fuel filter or is it located in the fuel tank.
December 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Should be in-line like here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/04-BASICS-Fuel_Filter/04-BASICS-Fuel_Filter.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mike D Comments: hi does anybody no if a 2003 facelift boxster 2.7 as a inline filter or is in the tank
December 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Should be in-line like here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/04-BASICS-Fuel_Filter/04-BASICS-Fuel_Filter.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Smitty Comments: The hose needed to drain the gas tank that I used was 5/16" 8mm.
October 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Awesome, thanks for sharing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dibeck Comments: Hi,
I obviously have a fuel handling system related issue as well and I am really getting frustrated with my 2008 Boxster S and hope I can get some ideas here …
It happened the second time now that I got stuck with the car since the engine was stalling this time it happened at 250km/h on the German Autobahn about 155 mph on the left lane – not good …
It all starts with some engine cut offs before the engine eventually dies. It can be restarted for some seconds and then dies for good.
I put in 5 liters of gas and it starts as if nothing had happened. But at the gas station I can only fill in about 45 liters then. So my assumption is that the tank is NOT empty when the engine dies but still has about 20 liters of gasoline.
First thought was the car has a saddle tank and the jet pump on the secondary side has an issue. However, there is not jet pump on the Boxster and no saddle tank either.
No CEL, no failures in OBD, Porsche dealer has not clue.
Anybody having an idea would be very much appreciated.
Just another note: Before this happened the first time I had completely emptied the tank during a nice trip through the black forest. Maybe this rings a bell?
Thanks!
Dirk
September 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be an issue with the fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality. The trouble will be, getting it to act up so you can test when it is broken.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Smitty Comments: The instructions for removing the gas from the gas tank on the boxsters shows attaching a hose to the fuel pump and jumping the fuel pump relay. However there is no mention on the size of the hose needed to do this. Any idea on what this hose size ID is?
September 9, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Good question. Looking ta the hose it looks to be about 10mm. Having 8 and 10 on hand wouldn't be a bad idea. Can you follow up to let us know what size you use? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jon Comments: hi. Can you tell me how to find the DME relay on my 2005 boxter 987? I can't locate the relay panel you show in the photograph. It's a very early 987 model with right hand drive.
April 4, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The info I have says fuse / relay panel 1. No image or relay color. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tom p Comments: FYI - have had a repeating fuel problem in my 2006 cayman 987. Sputtering and then engine cuts out. Scary on a motorway. Showed "low oil pressure"...

Fuel gauge was registering 100 miles of fuel left, but the tank was completely empty when it was towed back to the garage. Refilled and worked fine.

How can recalibrate the sensor? How does the sensor work? The fuel pump was replaced several months ago.
November 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure a calibration will fix your issue. You may have a faulty sending unit. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dan Comments: Question....In figure 5C and 5D , there is a yellow tube that is going into the tank to the left of the sending unit and pump. I think that tube is disconnected on my boxster perhaps causing my problem of not being able to fill the gas tank. What is the tube and where does it go.

I've posted on the forum, but gotten no responses. Also, I have a kink in a tube in that area, and wondering what that is?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/828128-gas-filling-problem.html
September 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are you holding the battery vent? I do not believe anything is missing from your sending unit. The vent is likely restricted. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dee Comments: Hello,
2002 Boxster S. CEL came on last week, went off after 2 days. Back on today, 4 hrs later car died in driveway. Cranked but wouldn't turn over. Never did this before over 3yrs. Tune up, & alternator done in last 6 months . 3 hrs later fired up like nothing happened . Thinking, still going to take to dealer but thinking fuel filter as I did hear a loud ticking that sounded like the driverside rear. thoughts?
August 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be the crank sensor. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
paul Comments: Hi. My 2005 987 2.7 Boxster is losing power intermittently. While accelerating the power will cut, and I need to release the accelerator and then I am able to accelerate again. I figure it could be a problem with the fuel filter or pump? Even though the filter is contained within the tank does that mean it absolutely cannot be replaced? Is the first step to replace the fuel pump?

Many thnaks,

Paul
July 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
myboxster Comments: Do the 987's have a fuel filter?
May 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, it is integrated into the fuel pump module. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Side Comments: I have a boxster 986 2,7 year 2001 and don't have signal to relay from pump fuel but the pump fuel it's good ,I had tested the pump and it works, what do you think it's the problem
April 29, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check if the relay is getting power, ground and the control circuit is being turned on by the DME. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
gleb621 Comments: I have a 2006 Cayman S with almost 12k miles. It sat for a while and the battery died and couldn't be recharged. The new battery was installed and now my passenger window drops down when you open the door, but it won't go back up when the door is closed. The auto down feature is working, but not auto up. I also noted that the interior lights stay on unless I lock the car. Someone told me it was the door lock assembly, but I'm not so certain. I swapped it out for a used one that was supposed to be tested as OK. I still have the same issue. I tried raising / lowering the windows to reset but no luck yet.
March 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be as simple an initializing the windows or a faulty door latch switch. You can try cleaning and lubricating the latch. If function returns, I suggest replacing it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Robb Comments: I have bought a 2001 Boxster that has been sitting for years. Low mileage, however the gas was left in the tank and the car never run. Fuel in lines including filter is totally contaminated so opened tank ty for your article above and there is a rotten mess inside. I need to remove the fuel tank and can see the attachement bolts and straps underneath to do so, but is there anything else I need to know about removing the tank prior to proceeding??
February 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Be sure it is empty, and be sure all the lines and electrical connections are detached before removing it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
dbaker Comments: When I put gas in the car it becomes hard to start but does. When I remove the gas cap and push down on the cover it seems to relieve the pressure.
December 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention what type of vehicle you have. However, it sounds like there is a restriction in the evap system, maybe the vent line. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
dbaker Comments: 2002 boxster, my boxster is making a humming sound, it seems to becoming from the gas tank anyone knows what the problem might be? I can only assume it’s the fuel pump.
December 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is there a difference in the noise when the fuel tank is full vs low in fuel? The pump does make a noise but it's usually dampened by fuel in the tank etc. But it gets noisier with age until it fails. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
captzoom Comments: What is the correct fuel pressure requirement for a 3.2 986 S?
December 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 45 - 51 psi - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Joel Comments: Can you tell me how to locate the fuel pump relay on a 1998 Boxster?
October 5, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See attached photo. It should be in same place as noted in this tech article. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Pete993 Comments: That's a good way to empty the tank Jumping the fuel pump
but you're doing this due to a bad pump!So that won't work.
September 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can:

Pump the fuel out from the filler neck using a long hose and pump it into a tank.

or

Remove the fuel pump you can pump the fuel out of tank openening. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ScottUSMCRet Comments: Hi, I have an 986 boxster 2002 that is running fine, but the fuel gage is not responding to changes in fuel level. It sits around 3/4 and after driving goes to 4/4 even if I know the tank is almost empty. I have not noticed any problems with the car running properly. It does seem to surge a little at idle but only if the air conditioner is OFF...strange huh and not sure if related. Anyway, the bentley manual says the 2002 has all one unit and parts can't be changed seperatly. This tutorial shows the sending unit and pump as seperate parts. Am I off here because I don't think I need a pump seeing as how the car runs. Again, am I off the mark. Any help will be appreciated.
July 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Bentley likely used the factory parts spec as a guide. Our site does have the sending unit available separately. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Eric D Comments: Q: Will the pump always stay running when relay jumpered or is there a safety that shuts it off after a few seconds?

I have pulled the relay and jumped properly and when I turn the key on I hear a small whirring noise which then stops after a few seconds...wasn't sure if maybe there is a pressure cutoff in the fuel pump that stops the pump from over-pressuring the lines or not, but if I spray starter fluid into the intake MAF port the car will start and run for a couple of seconds and then quits.

There is one more test I want to try to confirm that it is the fuel pump...If I disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel injector rail and turn the key on, theoretically the pump should just stay on at that point and I should start gushing at the back. If I do have fuel delivery to the injector rail, what would be my next step?
July 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Put the fuel hose you disconnected from the rail into an empty gallon container. Jump the fuel pump relay and the pump should stay running as long as the relay is jumped, otherwise you have a bad pump. If the pump stays running while the relay is jumped then you probably have a bad relay. There is no safety shut off. With the engine not running the PCM will only activate the fuel pump for a few seconds to prime the system. It will then reactivate the relay when it sees a crank signal from the engine spinning - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Charlie Comments: Is there a trick to pulling the relay out. I only pulled the plastic cover off. Guess I'm ordering a new one no matter what now.
June 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the relay seems stuck, slowly work it up. Pull up while moving the relay side to side, it should come free. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nick Comments: thanks for your help. YES it was the fuel pump in the tank that went bad! Anyone having a similar issue as i described..replace your fuel pump.
June 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nick Comments: 2000 boxster...while driving the car starting losing power. When I stepped on the gas it bogged...and rpms and power kept dropping. Eventually the car died. Then I was able to start it..but it ran rough and quit. Now the engine cranks but won't start. I tried the unplug the mass air sensor trick...but it still just cranks but won't start. I jumped the fuel pump relay and turned the key...heard nothing. Should I hear the fuel pump with the front hood up and the battery still installed?
June 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have the fuel pump activated, you should hear it running. Try removing the fuel filler cap and listening via the filler neck.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
DaveRemy Comments: FUEL PUMP HINT: My 2002 Boxster hesitated as if it ran out of gas, then would not restart. I jumped out the relay and still not would not start. I resigned to replace the fuel pump. I purchased an inexpensive transfer pump and pumped the remaining gas into a 5 gal gas can. Fortunately, I also own a gas thirsty Hummer and filled up its tank with the fuel from my boxster. It is important to drain the tank completely and wipe out the bottom wipe a shop rag. The new pump clicks in place with just a 1/8 turn. Because the sender kept falling apart when inserted, I had to snug up the sender spring extension w/ a wire-tie. Finally, it is important to insert the new tank gasket into the tank first. Lightly lube up the gasket w ATF for good measure. The sender will then slide into the gasket. Tighten the sender ring and then go back and tighten it again.
May 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jon Comments: Hi,

On a Boxster 987, is there an 'easy' way to access the relays? They are mounted connections down / relays up above the fuse box in the footwell and access appears to be appalling - is there a trick to unclipping the relay board to get better access?

Thanks!
April 25, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are retaining lugs at the sides of the relay panel. Once you detach these lugs, the panel can be pulled down for better access. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
steeler Comments: Have a 2000 Boxter w/ 67k miles, drove it to work tried starting it an hour later and it would not start. Had it towed to dealer recieved a call 4 hours later telling me it started right up. This has happened numerous times and dealer is unsure of the cause.
March 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You stated your car would not start. Did it not turn over or not start while cranking? If it did not crank over an ignition switch or starter are possiblilites. Not starting while cranking could be a fuel pump or a multitude of other items. Intermitent problems can be very difficult to diagnose.


- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
itsred7 Comments: HELP! I changed the fuel pump while looking at this pagem extremely helpful. but i think hooking up the cars terminals to a charger might have fried or messed with something because now the driver window was starting to go up and then just went back down when I would press the switch. After pressing up it went down all the way and now it does not go back up. What can it be?
January 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is indeed a strange problem. I'm not sure that they are related. If both windows are doing that at the same time and perhaps you have some problem with the controller that was caused by an electrical fault. There is a procedure to reset the window controller. Check out the tech article that I have on replacing window regulators – the procedure is documented in there. The windows are also equipped with a safety mechanism that will not allow them to go up if they have any significant amount of pressure placed on them. So it may be that your window regulators are just sticky and need some grease. I'm going to copy this questions the forums and perhaps you can add some follow-up information so that we can help you out. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
eric Comments: When you say battery supply, is this just a regular batter charger/maintainer?
January 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: For the purpose of powering the fuel pump to empty the tank you can use any 12V power source that has enough amperage to power the pump. In this case I simply used a battery charger set at the two AMP level and that was more than adequate. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
eric Comments: IFWE ARE REPLACING THE FUEL PUMP, WHY WOULD WE JUMPER THE RELAY FOR THE PUMP TO PUMP OUT THE FUEL IN THE TANK? DOESNT THE FUEL PUMP NOT WORK?
January 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That's true if there is a complete failure of the pump. In a lot of cases, the pump starts to leak internally and then cannot provide enough pressure for the engine, but can provide enough pressure to empty the tank. Also, sometimes the pump can work intermittantly - requiring a tap on the side with a hammer, etc. Also, there are a few other projects that refer to this one for emptying the tank. -Wayne at Pelican Parts  
romy s raquel Comments: I have a hard time locking in the pump at the bottom with circular ring, is there a trick or a method to this.
December 17, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You might try a little bit of lube or oil at the friction mating surfaces. Hope this helps.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
Andrew Comments: I have a Porsche cayman 2007 and the pumps and relay panel look nothing like this. I got it working to empty my tank during Sandy. Tip one: expose pump assembly by removing battery. Check the power wired to the pump. In my case it was green with black stripe. I foundt this same wire in the relay panel to figure out the right relay to short. nothing is labeled at all in the panel tip two: do not connect power unless you are ready for the pump to activate. In my case it did not require turning the key. Pump starts ASAP when you attach the battery even with everything off. Tip 3: the pressure hose on my assembly was the small tube with the quick connect.
November 4, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank you for the clarifcation and tip. Just a warning when jumping the pump or attaching the battery, Beware of fuel vapor and sparks. Safety first and always.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
JR Comments: My car was running fine then I stopped driving it for a few months, had to replace the battery as it was done. Driving down the road the car died, all the lights came on the dash. The car was reading 20 miles worth of juice left. Put more juice in and it drove for another 10 miles and again all the dash lights came on. Tried the next morning and it worked for a few minutes and now it does not start. I changed the crank sensor but it did not help. How can I tell if the relay/pump is gone? Is there anything else to check?
It turns over without problem but wont kick off :
August 18, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would suggest jumping the pump relay as described in the article. When jummped you should hear the fuel pump running. You could also check your fuel pressure to verify that the pump is working. Lastly, have you changed your fuel filter? Engines that run for a while and then die and restart and run for a while and die indicate a possible clogging fuel filter. Tip, Always replace your fuel filter when replacing the fuel pump.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
tknight Comments: Car cranks no fire, this is the second time it happened, the first time it finally fired after a couple tries.
This time no luck,
I checked fuses, all good, I jumped the relay, I still get no sound from fuel pump, whats funny is when I jumped the relay I received 12v at the pump, still no sound, but when the relay is installed I get nothing,no voltage at the pump?? Am I missing something here or is this correct?
Id like to eliminate all the easy fixes before I replace the fuel pump.
August 13, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you had voltage at the pump and did not hear the pump running it has failed. The pump does not get power unless the engine is running or cranking. That would explain no power to your pump with the relay bpassed. I suspect you did not check voltage while cranking with the relay installed.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
prisonbob Comments: I have a 2001 Porsche Boxster, the gas station fuel pump shuts off after a couple gallons. I think the fuel lines need tied up, from what Ive been reading. do you have an article on how to wire tie them up? Thanks Prisonbob
April 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Fuel station pumps shut off when fuel reaches the return section of the filler nozzle. Either your tank is only two gallons low or there is a problem with your venting system. If your pump or sender was replaced and the hoses are not allowing the fuel sensor to move it's entire range you will get an incorrect fuel gauge reaging. Check the additional pictures link below the article for more info.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
JS Comments: yphion Easy to follow the directions provided here, sucessful with no drama, saved $390 labor at the dealer.

For those wanting to survey the symptoms, after a 30 minute drive we stopped, were out of the car about 10-15 minutes. The car would start run for about 10 seconds and then die out. This was repeatable. After an overnight to sit, the car wouldn't replicate and started no problem. This didn't last, once a drive took place it was back to not running.

Did buy the new relay $12 here, but it didn't change anything but for $12 it was worth a try-it would have been great if it had. The fuel pump also has a 30 amp fuse in the drivers footwell,good to check it before anything else. In my case, it was fine.

Buy a good hand pump, a $12 dollar syphon pump moved 8 gallons pretty rapidly. Great article -thanks as always.
March 31, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank You for the positive feedback. The hand pump is a great tip.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
Tee Comments: I have a 2003 3.2s and the top of the sender unit only has 2 fuel connection hoses. I have bridged the relay termimals and had the pump running but no fuel comes out either of the hoses, Can you help
March 25, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That could be a faild pump. They can run but still not deliver. Another possibility is leaking hoses inside the fuel tank. I would remove the pump and sender for inspection.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
JT Comments: Hi Chaps, my 1998 996 cut out without warning, through viewing various forum sites, including this one, I ordered a new fuel pump relay, sorted, it took seconds to fit, it,s located under the foot pedals above the fuse box. But where the tell tale signs there? A couple of days prior to the relay failing, the car felt a little juddery one morning on the way to work, I also switched off the airconditiong and the revs dropped rather than increased. Defiantly worth trying the relay first before concluding it could be the fuel pump. Hope this helps some of you guys.
March 17, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thank You for the advice. Jumping the relay as described in the article is another good test.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
Sir Laffalot Comments: I don't see where you mentioned the size of the hose that one needs to drain the gas tank: 1/4-inch I.D. polyethylene tubing. It's not clear which makes it hard to see when gas goes into the line, but it's fuel-resistant. Regular clear vinyl will work too, I guess, but it might work next time.
December 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The clear vinyl hose works fine for short term emptying of the fuel tank like this - it's not going to eat through or dissolve the hose while your emptying the tank. I wouldn't use it long term, but for short term usage like this, the clear hose works well. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Charz Comments: I have a question about Figure 2 in the Fuel pump replacement DIY. The write up says jumper pins 30 and 87 but the picture shows pins 85 and 86 jumpered. Also, if jumpering it does not run the pump with the key on, can you supply 12v to the pump while its in the car to test it? If so, which pins on top of the pump do you use, there are 4.
June 20, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm pretty sure that in the photo, it's an optical illusion based upon the relay socket. The socket has six slots, I believe, and the relay only appears to have four. So, I believe the proper ones are indeed jumpered. You can indeed supply 12V directly to the pump, but this isn't the safest approach in my opinion, because you can have spark in that area while you're pumping out fuel. Two wires in the top are for the pump power, and two are for the fuel sender. Sorry, I'm not sure which one is which, you'd have to take the pump out and trace them from the connector. Or, disconnect the connector, jump the wires at the relay, and then test the connections with a multimeter. But, if you're going to do that, you might as well just use the jumper to power the pump. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Kepakurl Comments: Hi My 986 boxster 2002 stopped on the side of the road with no warning.It had run out of fuel with 15 litres still in the tank. Runs fine otherwise. Is this the fuel pump.The guage is working fine.
October 18, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Indeed, the fuel pump is probably the first thing that I would check and/or replace. You might also want to check the fuel pump relay and/or the fuse on the pump circuit as well prior to replacing the pump. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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