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Pelican Technical Article:
Oil Pan Gasket Replacement / Deep Sump Installation
 

 
Time: 3 hrs
Tab: $300
Talent: 
Tools:
Dremmel tool
Applicable Models:
986 Boxster (1997-04)
987 Boxster (2005-08)
Parts Required:
Deep sump kit, pickup tube extension
Hot Tip:
Add the pickup tube extension for maximum protection
Performance Gain:
Better engine protection in high G-force cornering
Complementary Modification:
Change oil
 
  

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your Porsche Boxster.  The book contains 312 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads.   With more than 950+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any Boxster owner's collection. The book is currently available and in stock now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 

Check out some other sample projects from the book: 

Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!
  
     The older Porsche 911 cars had what is known as a dry-sump oiling system. This meant that excess oil from the engine was removed (scavenged) from the bottom of the sump and stored in a separate oil tank. With a dry-sump system, a significant quantity of oil (approximately 12 quarts) is available to be supplied to the engine at all times. With a wet sump system, the oil is stored in an area below the engine. A traditional wet sump, similar to the one used on the Boxster engine, doesn't hold as much oil as a dry sump, and also may suffer from scavenging issues when the car corners and oil is sloshed from one side of the sump to the other.

     As a result of the lower oil capacity of the wet sump design, it's possible that the Boxster engine may exhibit oil scavenge problems under high performance track driving. The engine is not likely to see these types of forces when driving on the street. One solution to help the problem is to lower the sump and increase its capacity. A deep sump kit extends the bottom of the engine and adds about a half a quart to the total capacity. That half quart may be just what you need in order to save your engine if your Boxster is experiencing high G-forces on the racetrack. Installation is fairly easy and can be performed on the engine with it still installed in the car. Follow the instructions shown in the photos as well as the ones included with the kit.
After emptying the engine of oil, the first step is to remove the lower engine sump cover.
Figure 1
After emptying the engine of oil, the first step is to remove the lower engine sump cover. A total of 13 bolts hold the sump cover to the engine (red arrow shows one). Remove all but two of these: loosen the last two bolts but don't remove them. This is to keep the sump plate from falling on you when you pry it free. Have a large drip tray handy when you remove the sump cover, as there will some excess oil that will drip out of the engine. To remove the sump cover, use a prybar between the two bosses located near the oil filter (yellow arrow). Some light tapping with a rubber mallet might help as well. Do not place any tools on the mounting surfaces of the sump plate or the engine. The engine sump plate sandwiches itself between the case and the stock lower sump as shown by the green arrow.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Remove the black plastic baffle from the bottom sump plate.
Figure 2
Remove the black plastic baffle from the bottom sump plate. The six “windows” on the baffle should be enlarged slightly in order to gain the maximum performance from your additional sump. Using a Dremmel tool, carefully modify the baffle, removing about an 1/8th of an inch from the bottom of each window. The inset photo shows the first window modified (yellow arrow). Only take off a small amount of material here: you must leave enough material on the bottom so that the flaps will still seat on the raised bottom lip.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Install the baffle spacer onto the bottom of the sump plate.
Figure 3
Install the baffle spacer onto the bottom of the sump plate. Make sure that the two small tabs line up with the fin that is cast into the bottom of the sump plate (yellow arrow). Install the plastic baffle onto the spacer using the bolts supplied with the kit. Use some Loctite threadlocker on the screws as you install them. Do not use any gasket sealant on the baffle extension. When you remove your old sump, be sure to carefully clean both the engine side and the sump plate so that you can reseal the sandwich plate upon installation. After meticulously cleaning the two mounting surfaces, I used Loctite 5900 to seal the flange surfaces.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Shown here is the Brey-Krause deep sump kit that we used for this project.
Figure 4
Shown here is the Brey-Krause deep sump kit that we used for this project. This high quality kit is available from PelicanParts.com and comes complete with the sump spacer, the baffle spacer and the appropriate mounting hardware.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Shown here are the lower sump air-oil separators, which help to de-foam the oil in the bottom of the sump.
Figure 5
Shown here are the lower sump air-oil separators, which help to de-foam the oil in the bottom of the sump. They are held on with two bolts each (green arrows), but seldom need replacing. I would recommend that you replace them if you had some type of major engine failure at one time that might have contaminated them (inset photo shows them removed). For the installation of this kit, I chose to add the oil pickup tube spacer, manufactured by LN Engineering (inset photo). This spacer lowers the oil pickup tube all the way down to the bottom of the sump when the deep sump kit is installed. This allows the maximum amount of oil to be sucked up by the oil pumps (cost is approximately $30). The yellow arrows point to the attachment points for the oil pickup tube.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
See Bonus Photos
Bonus Photos
Looking for more photos? Click to see bonus pictures for this project.
Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!
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Comments and Suggestions:
JimComments: I recently bought a couple of AOS units from you for my 2000 Boxster S. But, I cannot find the torque specs for the sump cover or the AOS units anywhere. Would you happen to know what they are? Thanks for any help.
Jim
December 2, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Those are 6MM bolts. Normal torque for 6MM is 10NM or 7 foot pounds.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 
JimComments: I recently bought a couple of AOS units from you for my 2000 Boxster S. But, I cannot find the torque specs for the sump cover or the AOS units anywhere. Would you happen to know what they are? Thanks for any help.
Jim
November 13, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Those are 6MM bolts. Normal torque for 6MM is 10NM or 7 foot pounds.

- Denny at Pelican Parts
 

Check out some other sample projects from the book: 

 

Got more questions?  Join us in our Boxster / Cayman Technical Forum Message Board or our Carrera 996 / 997 Technical Forum Message Board and ask a question to one of our many automotive experts.

Or, see what other questions readers have asked about this article...
 Applies to: 1997 Boxster, 1998 Boxster, 1999 Boxster, 2000 Boxster, 2001 Boxster, 2002 Boxster, 2003 Boxster, 2004 Boxster, 2005 Boxster, 2006 Boxster, 2007 Boxster, 2008 Boxster, 1999 Carrera, 1999 996, 2000 Carrera, 2000 996, 2001 Carrera, 2001 996, 2002 Carrera, 2002 996, 2003 Carrera, 2003 996, 2004 Carrera, 2004 996, 2005 Carrera, 2005 997, 2006 Carrera, 2006 997, 2007 Carrera, 2007 996, 2008 Carrera, 2008 997
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