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Accessory Belt Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Accessory Belt Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

30 minutes30 mins

Tab:

$6 to $20

Talent:

**

Tools:

13mm wrenches (2)

Applicable Models:

BMW E10 2002 Coupe/Conv (1967-76)
BMW E21 320i Coupe (1977-83)

Parts Required:

New belt

Hot Tip:

Do NOT over tighten the belt

Performance Gain:

Proper running accessories

Complementary Modification:

Change air filter

The drive or accessory belt on the BMW 2002 is simple and easy to replace and a great way to get started on DIY-ing your car. You should check your belts every six months for wear, cracking, fraying, delaminating and drying out. If your belt shows any of these signs you should replace it. I recommend you buy two belts and always keep an extra one in the car. You don't want to be stranded on the side of the road for the lack of a spare drive belt.

You can easily change the belt from the top of the motor so lifting the vehicle is not necessary. Just make sure you let it cool down, as you will be working close to the radiator.

The tension on the belt is determined by the adjustment bracket on the alternator (red arrow).
Figure 1

The tension on the belt is determined by the adjustment bracket on the alternator (red arrow). Loosening the alternator will allow you to replace the belt. You are going to be working close to the radiator. If you are worried about damaging it, like we were since we are working on the Clarion Build's BMW 2002 and it has a really nice aluminum radiator, put a piece of cardboard over it to protect the cooling fins.

The belt travels around the crankshaft pulley on the bottom of the motor (red arrow), around the water pump (yellow arrow) and over the alternator.
Figure 2

The belt travels around the crankshaft pulley on the bottom of the motor (red arrow), around the water pump (yellow arrow) and over the alternator. You do not need to get under the car to replace it. This photo is for illustration purposes. Just make sure the belt is sitting in the pulleys correctly.

You are going to be working around the alternator, which has a direct connection to the battery.
Figure 3

You are going to be working around the alternator, which has a direct connection to the battery. If you find yourself using a tool like a socket and ratchet that gets close to the wiring on the rear of the alternator, do yourself a favor and disconnect the ground strap on the battery (yellow arrow) as well as the positive (red arrow). Just make sure to keep any radio codes you might need when reconnecting the battery.

You will need to loosen the alternator.
Figure 4

You will need to loosen the alternator. Start by using two 13mm wrenches or sockets and loosen but do not remove the 13mm nut and bolt where the alternator connects to the mount on the block (red arrows).

Next loosen but do not remove the two 13mm nuts and bolt on the adjustment bracket (red arrows).
Figure 5

Next loosen but do not remove the two 13mm nuts and bolt on the adjustment bracket (red arrows).

Gently push the alternator down and slide the belt off the alternator pulley and then the water pump and crankshaft pulley.
Figure 6

Gently push the alternator down and slide the belt off the alternator pulley and then the water pump and crankshaft pulley.

Check the belt for any signs of excessive wear along the edges that might indicate an alignment problem with the pulleys.
Figure 7

Check the belt for any signs of excessive wear along the edges that might indicate an alignment problem with the pulleys. Installation of the new belt is the reverse of removal. Do NOT over tension the belt, as the 2002 is known for destroying water pumps by having too much tension on the pulley and belt. Tension the belt so the water pump turns but is not over tight. You should be able to deflect the belt about an inch in the midway point between the alternator and water pump.


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Page last updated: Sat 12/3/2016 02:58:50 AM