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Engine Mount Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Engine Mount Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$200

Talent:

***

Tools:

Set of sockets, 16mm, E12 inverted Torx, hydraulic or screw jack, block of wood, floor jack, two jack stands, two wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

BMW X5 (2000-06)

Parts Required:

Motor mounts and fasteners

Hot Tip:

Replace in pairs

Performance Gain:

Reduce engine vibration

Complementary Modification:

Replace transmission mounts

The engine in your BMW has to be secured to the chassis in order to provide maximum power transfer. BMW achieves this by using a hydraulic motor mount (liquid filled). These mounts have hollow chambers inside that are filled with fluid that helps to create a stiff engine mount while maintaining the highest level of vibration dampening.

The E53 drive drain (engine and transmission) is supported by a system of mounts. In the front, the engine rests on two engine mounts, one on each side of the engine. At the rear, the transmission rests on a pair of mounts which are bolted to a support crossbeam underneath the vehicle.

When an engine mount begins to fail, you will feel more vibrations from the engine. The engine may sag in the engine bay or the engine may have excessive movement when the engine is running, if a mount is broken. When working under your vehicle, you may notice fluid leaking out of your engine mount(s). This means the mount has failed and should be replaced.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing the engine mounts on the BMW E53 with an M62 8-cylinder engine. Other engines are similar.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you are working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Jack up the front of your vehicle. See our tech article on jacking up your vehicle.

Remove the engine splash shields and reinforcement plates. See our tech article on splash shield removal.

Remove the engine covers. See our tech article on engine covers removing.

The following steps highlight removing the right side engine mount. Only remove the side you are currently replacing. Do one side at a time. The procedure is similar for the left side. If steps vary from side to side, they will be noted.

When replacing the motor mount on the right side, start by removing the E12 external Torx fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 1

When replacing the motor mount on the right side, start by removing the E12 external Torx fasteners (red arrows). Use an E12 socket on a swivel adapter to access the fasteners. When replacing the left side motor mount, start by removing the 16mm center nut. Then remove the rear most E12 fastener. Next, slightly jack the engine and remove the front most E12 fastener from below using a wrench or ratchet. The inset shows how to access the fasteners using a long extension, working from the engine compartment.

This photo shows the extension (green arrow) swivel and socket removing the E12 fastener at the rear of the mount.
Figure 2

This photo shows the extension (green arrow) swivel and socket removing the E12 fastener at the rear of the mount.

Use a magnetic pick-up tool to retrieve each fastener as you loosen them (red arrow).
Figure 3

Use a magnetic pick-up tool to retrieve each fastener as you loosen them (red arrow). Next, remove the 16mm center nut (green arrow), for the right side mount. If removing the left, you would have removed this first.

This photo shows the extension and socket (green arrow) removing the 16mm center nut.
Figure 4

This photo shows the extension and socket (green arrow) removing the 16mm center nut. Use a magnetic pick-up tool to retrieve the nut as you loosen it (red arrow).

This photo shows the mount from below viewed from the wheel well (green arrow).
Figure 5

This photo shows the mount from below viewed from the wheel well (green arrow). With the fasteners removed, it is time to jack the engine and remove the mount.

When replacing the right side mount, you will want to jack as close to the engine mount bracket as possible.
Figure 6

When replacing the right side mount, you will want to jack as close to the engine mount bracket as possible. Next, support the engine from below using a jack (green arrow). Place a block of wood between the corner of the engine oil pan and the jack pad. Raise the jack until the engine mount stud hole (blue arrow) clears the engine mount stud. To get the mount out, flip it over as you feed it out. Flipping it helps the stud to clear the bracket.

Raise the engine until the engine mount can be removed from the vehicle.
Figure 7

Raise the engine until the engine mount can be removed from the vehicle. You will see the upper engine mount stud move free of the upper bracket. Remove the engine mount from the vehicle. Install the new engine mount. Slowly lower the engine down onto the mount. Install the new engine mount nuts and tighten them to spec. Then repeat the procedure for the opposite side mount. Reassemble the remaining items and recheck that all engine mount nuts are tight.

If replacing the left side mount, leave the right side mount top nut loose.
Figure 8

If replacing the left side mount, leave the right side mount top nut loose. Start by removing the 16mm center nut. Then remove the rearmost E12 fastener. Then slightly jack the engine by the corner of the oil pan (red arrow points to differential, do not jack here), spreading the jacking force evenly. Then, remove the frontmost E12 fastener from below using a wrench or ratchet (green arrow). Once free, jack the motor until you see the upper engine mount stud move free of the upper bracket. Remove the engine mount from the vehicle. Install the new engine mount. Slowly lower the engine down on the mount. Install the new engine mount nuts and tighten them. Reassemble the remaining items and recheck that all engine mount nuts are tight.


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Comments and Suggestions:
TLUU Comments: Do you have to disconnect the Fan that connects to the engine when jacking up the motor?m62
March 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You shouldn't. But if you jack too high you can put stress on it and the shroud. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Kristope Comments: @Craigbmwx52001

Since your engine didn't go up high enough did you end up needing to drop the subframe to remove the driver's side motor mount? When I view the motor mount from under the fender part of the lip of the mount is pretty close to the body channel and doesn't seem like the motor mount could be lifted up enough to be able to taken out of the cradle.
December 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Craigbmwx52001 Comments: Question? I just replaced the following on 2001 BMW x5 3.0l M54 engine:

AC Mech. tensioner and new AC belt
H20/Alt/etc Mech. Tensioner+ Alt. Idler pulley + new S-Belt
Thermo./gasket, new H2o pump. + pulley, o-ring, fan clutch
New coolant + ~8-gallon distilled water flush!
New heater temp. sens. + o-ring installed in lower rad. hose
New fan shroud

I was astonished at first how tight and smooth the engine was upon idle. Car has 204,350 miles, and I am certain these were the original tensioners-OMG! Now 4 days after install, I am getting dreaded early morning squeal/chirp. It goes away after driving for a few minutes. Could it be the belts or even one pulley still has coolant residue? How would you diagnose this issue with surgical precision? By the way, an unexpected side benefit to all of this was a longstanding inside cab vibration went away! Car SCREAMS like new upon acceleration. Readers should do this inexpensive repair and/or maintenance job which is really easy and can produce so many benefits, imvho !!!

Thanks in advance for you comments!
May 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you spray the belt with water and the noise goes away, the belt is likely the issue. If the noise doesn't go away, the tensioner may be causing the chirp. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Craigbmwx52001 Comments: My $0.02 :- This is NOT an easy job. My vehicle: 2001 BMW x5 3.0 liter. Passenger side for sure came out easier. Driver's side was a beast! The engine would not jack up any higher on this side, plain and simple. It is a finesse job, wiggling the old mount to get it out, and same on installing. One note for all X5 3.0 liter owners. ** DO NOT FORGET TO REATTACH RED GROUND WIRE on passenger's side Mount. Your car will not start!! That ground has a special ear/bolt hole for pass. side mount. If you complete this job, you deserve major credit !
April 17, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
admranger Comments: One more thing - you have to take the driver's side axle out or completely drop the front subframe 6" to get the driver's side mount out. Seriously, this thing will not come out otherwise.
February 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks! - Nick at Pelican Parts  
admranger Comments: This procedure is not good for the N62 motor X5's. Not even close.

You have to get to the passenger side bolts and the nut from underneath as there's no way to get things to line up from up top dipstick tube and A/C hard lines are in the way. You can get the driver's side nut and the front bolt from above, The rear bolt is a very difficult one to get as you have about 1 or 2 teeth of ratchet movement. Need a flex head ratchet to get to it.

Also, with the motor jacked up all the way on one side axle hitting body of X5, the mounts won't come out. You need to lower the front subframe a good bit to get enough room.
February 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I agree. this should not state it works with the N62 engines. I will have that info removed. Thanks for the note and the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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