Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
Follow Pelican Parts on Facebook Follow Pelican Parts on Twitter Follow Pelican Parts on Instagram Follow Pelican Parts on YouTube Follow Pelican Parts on Pinterest Follow Pelican Parts on Tumblr
  Search our site:    
View Recent Cars  |   Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
 >  >
Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
 
Bookmark and Share

Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$300

Talent:

*****

Tools:

Set of sockets E14, 16mm, 6mm Allen, prybar, wire brush, 36mm 12 point,

Applicable Models:

BMW X5 (2000-06)

Parts Required:

Rear wheel bearing, wheel bearing fasteners or thread locker

Hot Tip:

Replace brakes

Performance Gain:

Quiet and smooth front end

Complementary Modification:

Replace in pairs

The drive wheel of your X5 is connected to the drivetrain via a drive axle. In order to keep that axle rotating smooth and vibration free, a wheel bearing is used. The rear wheel bearing on rear wheel drive E53 models bolts into the steering knuckle, unlike previous models that were pressed in. This wheel bearing is a large sealed bearing, consisting of four races and two sets of bearings. The bearing is lubricated at the factory and due to being sealed cannot be serviced as time passes.

A faulty wheel bearing can exhibit a few warning signs. The most obvious would be a howling or grinding noise from a front wheel while in motion. This noise would get louder when you steer side to side. You can check for a noisy wheel bearing with the vehicle stationary too. Jack the front of your vehicle and rotate the front wheel, while rotating place your hand on the front coil spring. You should be able to pick up a vibration in the spring. There may also be free-play in the bearing. You can check for free-play by jacking the front of your vehicle and wiggling the wheel up and down. If there is any free-play, replace the bearing.

Remember your car may have been serviced before and parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Raise and support the rear of vehicle on jack stands. See our tech article on jacking your up vehicle. You'll want both wheels off the ground for this repair.

Remove the rear wheel from side of vehicle you are replacing wheel bearing on.

The rear wheel bearing is mounted behind the brake rotor.
Figure 1

The rear wheel bearing is mounted behind the brake rotor. I will highlight what has to be removed to access the bearing. Start by removing the rear drive axle. See our tech article on rear drive axle removing.

Working at the rear of the rake caliper.
Figure 2

Working at the rear of the rake caliper. Remove the two 18mm fasteners (red arrow) for the caliper mounting bracket.

Then, remove the brake caliper and secure it in place using a stiff wire.
Figure 3

Then, remove the brake caliper and secure it in place using a stiff wire. Do not allow it to hang by the brake hose. Then remove the 6mm brake rotor Allen fastener (red arrow). Once the fastener is removed, remove the brake rotor. For detailed information, see brake rotor removing.

Working at back of wheel bearing carrier, remove the four E14 wheel bearing fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 4

Working at back of wheel bearing carrier, remove the four E14 wheel bearing fasteners (red arrows).

I like to use a long ratchet with a 4 extension.
Figure 5

I like to use a long ratchet with a 4" extension.

Next, remove the wheel bearing from the steering knuckle.
Figure 6

Next, remove the wheel bearing from the steering knuckle. If it is stuck, give it a light tap with a faced hammer.

Remove the wheel bearing from the steering knuckle.
Figure 7

Remove the wheel bearing from the steering knuckle. Clean wheel bearing mounting surface using a wire brush.

Next up you have to press the axle flange (red arrow) out of the wheel bearing.
Figure 8

Next up you have to press the axle flange (red arrow) out of the wheel bearing. Place the wheel bearing in a shop press with the flange pointing down and the wheel bearing supported. Press the flange out through the center of the wheel bearing (yellow arrow).

The outer race (yellow arrow) will likely stick to the flange (red arrow) when you press it out.
Figure 9

The outer race (yellow arrow) will likely stick to the flange (red arrow) when you press it out. If it didn't, you are one lucky person.

To remove the race, secure the flange in a vise, then use a three-jaw puller to remove the race from the flange.
Figure 10

To remove the race, secure the flange in a vise, then use a three-jaw puller to remove the race from the flange.

Confirm the orientation of the wheel bearing (red arrow) before pressing in the flange.
Figure 11

Confirm the orientation of the wheel bearing (red arrow) before pressing in the flange.

Using a flange installer (blue arrow), press the flange (yellow arrow) into the new wheel bearing (red arrow).
Figure 12

Using a flange installer (blue arrow), press the flange (yellow arrow) into the new wheel bearing (red arrow). Be sure your installer supports the races properly, or damage may occur. I like to replace the wheel bearing bolts too during this procedure. The bolts have a thread locker applied at the factory. You can either replace the bolts or apply new thread locker. You'll have to try to match up what comes off for thread locker grade (color). Install new wheel bearing and tighten fasteners. Reassemble suspension and install brakes, remember to pump brake pedal before driving vehicle. Have vehicle professionally aligned.

Bookmark and Share
Comments and Suggestions:
Dan Z Comments: I don't think you need to remove the rear center drive *shaft*, which is where your link goes. You remove the drive axle going to the wheel. I think this is the right link: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-X5/72-TRANS-Rear_Drive_Axle_Replacement/72-TRANS-Rear_Drive_Axle_Replacement.htm
September 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for catching that. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

  Search our site:    

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Privacy Statement]
 [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping] [Map to our Location] [Careers]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc.

Page last updated: Sat 12/3/2016 02:44:50 AM