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Charcoal Canister Replacing
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Charcoal Canister Replacing

Nick Czerula

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$200

Talent:

***

Tools:

T20 Torx driver, flathead screwdriver, 8mm, 10mm sockets

Applicable Models:

BMW 525i Sedan (2004-07)
BMW 528i/xi Sedan (2008-10)
BMW 530i/xi Sedan (2004-07)
BMW 530xi Wagon (2006-07)
BMW 535i/xi Sedan (2008-10)
BMW 535xi Wagon (2008)
BMW 545i Sedan (2004-05)
BMW 550i Sedan (2006-10)

Parts Required:

Charcoal canister, DMTL pump

Hot Tip:

Be careful when working with evap system; do not damage any hoses or connections

Performance Gain:

Repair evap system faults

Complementary Modification:

Replace evap hoses

With increased Federal emissions standards, BMW has been required to decrease both tailpipe emissions and the evaporative emissions. Evaporative emissions consist of volatile organic compounds (VOC), such as hydrocarbons from fuel and engine oil. Both of which vaporize and can escape from the vehicle into the atmosphere if not recovered.

The charcoal canister is an emission control device and consists of a sealed plastic canister of activated charcoal with hoses and lines at the side. It's used as a temporary storage device for fuel vapor or HC (hydrocarbon) from the fuel tank. This prevents excess fuel vapors from exiting the fuel tank and entering the atmosphere.

When the engine is off, fuel vapor from the fuel tank passes through a vent line into the canister where it is absorbed by the charcoal. When the engine is running, the fuel vapors are routed to the engine via an electronic solenoid and drawn in by intake manifold vacuum and controlled by the DME using a programmed duty cycle in order to maintain proper fuel mixture.

The charcoal canister and DMTL pump are located inside the right side rear fender. The charcoal canister is responsible for storing hydrocarbon vapors from the fuel tank that are eventually sent to the engine via the purge solenoid. The DMTL pump is mounted to the charcoal canister and is used to pressurize the evap system to check it for leaks. The DMTL pump can fail electrically. A fault code will be stored and the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) will be illuminated. If you have a fault code for the DMTL pump current high, replace the DMTL pump with a new one.

Remember that your car may have been serviced before and had parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Jack the rear of your vehicle and support it using jack stands. See our tech article on jacking up your vehicle. Always wear your safety glasses whenever you're working under your car.

The charcoal canister is tucked away behind the wheel well liner (green arrow).
Figure 1

The charcoal canister is tucked away behind the wheel well liner (green arrow). You will have to remove the liner to access it. Eleven 8mm fasteners, two plastic 10mm nuts and one plastic rivet hold the liner in. Start by removing the right rear wheel.

Working at the front of the right rear wheel well liner, remove the four 8mm fasteners.
Figure 2

Working at the front of the right rear wheel well liner, remove the four 8mm fasteners. The green arrows point to two of them. The inset and blue arrows point to the remaining two. Then remove the 10mm plastic nut (yellow arrow).

Working at the rear of the right rear wheel well liner, remove the seven 8mm fasteners (yellow arrows).
Figure 3

Working at the rear of the right rear wheel well liner, remove the seven 8mm fasteners (yellow arrows). Next, remove the plastic rivet (blue arrow) by removing the center rivet, then pulling it from the liner. Then remove the 10mm plastic nut (green arrow).

With all the fasteners removed, pull the center of the liner (near strut) away from the body.
Figure 4

With all the fasteners removed, pull the center of the liner (near strut) away from the body. The detaching points are where the plastic nuts attach. Once free, pull the center of the liner away from the body while feeding the top-sides (yellow arrow) down and out of the fender. Remove the liner from the body.

With the liner removed, you now have access to the charcoal canister (green arrow).
Figure 5

With the liner removed, you now have access to the charcoal canister (green arrow).

Working at the side of the charcoal canister, disconnect the hose (green arrow).
Figure 6

Working at the side of the charcoal canister, disconnect the hose (green arrow). Squeeze the hose release collar (inset). Then pull the hose straight off the charcoal canister.

Working at the side of the charcoal canister, disconnect the next hose.
Figure 7

Working at the side of the charcoal canister, disconnect the next hose. Squeeze the hose release collar (green arrows). Then pull the hose straight off the charcoal canister. Then disconnect the DMTL pump electrical connector by pressing the release tab (yellow arrow) and pulling it straight off.

Working at the top of the charcoal canister, disconnect the hose.
Figure 8

Working at the top of the charcoal canister, disconnect the hose. Squeeze the hose release collar (green arrows). Then pull the hose straight off the charcoal canister.

Next up, remove the two 10mm charcoal canister fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 9

Next up, remove the two 10mm charcoal canister fasteners (green arrows). When removing these fasteners, support the canister while you remove the last one. The canister can drop out. If it hits the ground it could break.

Slowly lower and guide the charcoal canister out of the rear fender and remove it from the vehicle.
Figure 10

Slowly lower and guide the charcoal canister out of the rear fender and remove it from the vehicle.

Place the charcoal canister on a workbench or solid surface.
Figure 11

Place the charcoal canister on a workbench or solid surface. Then remove the three T20 Torx fasteners (green arrows) for the DMTL pump.

Pull the DMTL pump (green arrow) straight out of the charcoal canister to remove it.
Figure 12

Pull the DMTL pump (green arrow) straight out of the charcoal canister to remove it. The new DMTL pump should come with a seal (yellow arrows). Double check that you are getting one with the new part and be sure to replace it when installing the new part. Before reassembling the charcoal canister, inspect the canister lines and hoses for cracks or damage. You don't want to reinstall a defective part. Your check engine light will be on soon after if you do. Install the new DMTL pump. Then reassemble the charcoal canister and the wheel well liner.

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Comments and Suggestions:
howitzer Comments: Except for physical damage, does the canister ever need to be replaced? If so, how often or for what reason? Thank you!
January 8, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Only if saturated with fuel or carbon falls apart clogging solenoids. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ss109 Comments: I have a gas smell coming from the right rear fenderwell only whilst the car is idling in one location for ten minutes or more. Could this be the culprit? Do these filters fail? However, because the engine is running, the canister is not active, correct? I do not have any errors or warnings. Thanks
December 16, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The canister could be the cause, or a broken line. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
donnyriz Comments: I Swapped out my old DMTL pump with a brand new one, without removing the entire Charcoal Canister, and now I am getting the gas cap warning light and then the engine light with the same old code of 2A17, though far more frequently than before I swapped. I feel my issue might be when re-installing at Figure #6 white hose...Felt like this hose was a bit tight to get off, but upon re installation I can't seem to get it to 'click' in place and I can just slide it off fairly easy I can still see a bit of the 'orange ring' when inserted. suggestions??
Thanks!
October 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Put some dish soap on the sealing o-ring to help with the install. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Sat 2/25/2017 02:24:36 AM