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M54 6-Cylinder Engine Head Gasket Replacement
 

Pelican Technical Article:

M54 6-Cylinder Engine Head Gasket Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

12 hours12 hrs

Tab:

$1500

Talent:

*****

Tools:

Set of sockets hex, Allen, Torx, wrenches (19mm, 32mm), screwdrivers, camshaft timing tools, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

BMW 525i Sedan (2004-05)
BMW 530i Sedan (2004-05)

Parts Required:

Head gasket kit, coolant pipe and O-rings, engine oil, filter, engine coolant

Hot Tip:

Work with a cool engine

Performance Gain:

Repair oil and coolant leaks

Complementary Modification:

Replace VANOS oil line

The cylinder head gasket is responsible for sealing the cylinders and the oil and coolant that pass from the top to the bottom of the engine. When this gasket fails you could have engine overheating, oil and coolant mixing along with a poor running engine. If your engine is overheating and there is white smoke coming out of your exhaust, you will need to confirm the head gasket is faulty. One way is to use a co2 tester to check the cooling system for combustion gas. Another way is to pressure test the cooling system. If there are no external leaks but it doesn't hold pressure the head gasket may be faulty. Remove the spark plugs and inspect each cylinder for signs of coolant.

On BMW E60 models equipped with an M54 6-cylinder engine the head gasket is usually unrepairable due to faulty threads in the block. Before repairing a faulty head gasket, attempt to re-torque the cylinder head bolts. If the bolts will not tighten, the block is faulty as well. Not all hope is lost as you can repair the holes with time serts, which work quite well. However, most times it is better to go with a used lower mileage engine. You will need a handful of special tools for the is job not limited to but including, camshaft timing tools, torque wrench, angle finder, plastic clean up tool, and standard hand tools. Be sure to have your cylinder head professionally cleaned and pressure tested before reinstalling.

Remember, your car may have been serviced before and parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have any questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below.

Read through the entire procedure before beginning. Be sure this is not above your skill level, as engine damage can occur if engine timing is not correct.

The majority of the procedure will be shown on an engine that is not installed in a vehicle. The steps are the same as if it was installed.

Drain the engine oil and coolant.

Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. See our tech article on Battery Replacing for connection notes.

In order to remove the engine cover(s) (yellow arrows), you first have to remove the cabin microfilter housing (green arrow).
Figure 1

In order to remove the engine cover(s) (yellow arrows), you first have to remove the cabin microfilter housing (green arrow). This photo shows an early 6-cylinder model. The cabin microfilter housing remains the same throughout all years. I will note the different engine types once we begin removing the engine covers. First, we will remove the cabin microfilter housing. Remove the engine covers. See our tech article on removing engine covers.

Open all six-ignition coil electrical connectors by rotating the connector (red arrow) up 90°.
Figure 2

Open all six-ignition coil electrical connectors by rotating the connector (red arrow) up 90°. Then remove the electrical connectors from the ignition coils. Remove the ignition coils from the cylinder head by pulling it straight up. If the coil resists, twist when pulling up to break it free from the spark plug. The ignition coil rubber boot can become stuck to the spark plug over time. Do this for all six-ignition coils. Remove the valve cover. See our tech article on valve cover gasket replacing.

Remove the engine cooling fan and shroud.
Figure 3

Remove the engine cooling fan and shroud. See our tech article on engine cooling fan replacing.

Working at the front of the exhaust system, remove the nuts that connect the exhaust system to the exhaust manifold (green arrows).
Figure 4

Working at the front of the exhaust system, remove the nuts that connect the exhaust system to the exhaust manifold (green arrows). Be careful when loosening these nuts. I like to spray the studs with penetrating oil and clean the end of the stud with a wire brush before removing. Depending on your region, these can seize up. If they break, don't worry. You can remove the studs by hammering them out and replace them with new ones. Support the engine from below using a hydraulic floor jack with a block of wood between the jack and the engine. Next, working at the right front of the cylinder head, remove the secondary air valve from the engine. See our tech article on secondary air components replacing. Support the engine from below using a jack or jack stand. Use a wood block between the jack and the engine. Working in the engine bay, locate the top of the right engine mount. The photo shows the mount looking down past the exhaust manifold. Remove the nut from the motor mount. Remove the right side engine mount bracket fasteners. Then remove the bracket from the engine. The bracket has four fasteners and bolts to the side of the engine block. You can access it from below the vehicle.

Remove the exhaust manifold fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 5

Remove the exhaust manifold fasteners (green arrows). There are eight fasteners on each manifold. Remove the front manifold fasteners first. Then remove the rear manifold fasteners. This photo shows the manifolds with the engine removed for clarity. Remove the exhaust manifold. Remove the intake manifold. See our tech article on intake manifold replacing.

With the intake manifold removed, you now have to remove the coolant pipe (green arrow) from the crankcase.
Figure 6

With the intake manifold removed, you now have to remove the coolant pipe (green arrow) from the crankcase. These pipes almost always break. Have a new on hand with new O-rings.

Using a 19mm wrench, remove the VANOS oil line, (below oil filter housing).
Figure 7

Using a 19mm wrench, remove the VANOS oil line, (below oil filter housing). Cover the line and opening to prevent dirt from entering the VANOS system (purple arrow). This line has to be moved out of the way to remove the coolant pipe.

Using a flathead screwdriver, level up the hose clamp until it reaches the stop (green arrow).
Figure 8

Using a flathead screwdriver, level up the hose clamp until it reaches the stop (green arrow). Then pull the hose straight off the coolant pipe.

Working at the front and rear of the coolant pipe, remove the two 10mm fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 9

Working at the front and rear of the coolant pipe, remove the two 10mm fasteners (green arrows). This photo shows the fasteners already removed.

Remove the coolant pipe from the cylinder head.
Figure 10

Remove the coolant pipe from the cylinder head. If needed, gently lever between the cylinder head and the coolant pipe flange (green arrow). The pipe usually gets stuck and breaks. If it does, be sure to get all the pieces out of the engine.

Remove the plastic camshaft cover from the cylinder head by pulling it up and off the cylinder head.
Figure 11

Remove the plastic camshaft cover from the cylinder head by pulling it up and off the cylinder head.

Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft pulley fastener to rotate the engine.
Figure 12

Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft pulley fastener to rotate the engine.

Rotate the engine clockwise until the first camshaft lobes point toward each other (green arrows).
Figure 13

Rotate the engine clockwise until the first camshaft lobes point toward each other (green arrows). This brings the engine to the cylinder #1 TDC position. This is the first step in locking the engine timing position.

Next, you are going to remove the dust plug from the crankcase.
Figure 14

Next, you are going to remove the dust plug from the crankcase. It is located below the engine, inside of the mounting reinforcement. This photo shows the plug (green arrow) on an engine removed from the vehicle for clarity. The purple arrow points to the engine oil pan.

Remove the plug from the crankcase.
Figure 15

Remove the plug from the crankcase. The dust plug can become stuck over time. If needed, pry it out using a flathead screwdriver. The green arrow points to the dust plug. The purple arrow points to the throttle housing.

Next, install the crankshaft locking pin tool (11 2 300) into the hole that the dust plug was removed from.
Figure 16

Next, install the crankshaft locking pin tool (11 2 300) into the hole that the dust plug was removed from. When installing the tool, push it in until it bottoms out. Slowly rotate the engine until the pin drops in about 12mm further. Once the tool is installed, confirm the crankshaft can no longer be rotated. Follow the instructions that came along with your special tool kit to ensure proper use.

Remove the studs at the rear of the cylinder head using a 10mm deep socket (green arrows).
Figure 17

Remove the studs at the rear of the cylinder head using a 10mm deep socket (green arrows).

Install the camshaft-locking jig (11 3 240) at the rear of the camshafts (green arrow).
Figure 18

Install the camshaft-locking jig (11 3 240) at the rear of the camshafts (green arrow). The jig should slide down onto square bosses on the end of the camshafts. Then secure them together. Follow the instructions that came along with your special tool kit to ensure proper use.

Working at the front of the VANOS actuator, remove the upper 8mm Allen plug.
Figure 19

Working at the front of the VANOS actuator, remove the upper 8mm Allen plug.

Next, remove the lower 8mm Allen plug.
Figure 20

Next, remove the lower 8mm Allen plug. When you remove the lower plug, be prepared to catch a small amount of oil in a container.

Using needle nose vise grips, pull the plastic plugs out of the VANOS actuator (green arrow).
Figure 21

Using needle nose vise grips, pull the plastic plugs out of the VANOS actuator (green arrow). There is one plug for each camshaft.

Next, you are going to remove the VANOS fasteners.
Figure 22

Next, you are going to remove the VANOS fasteners. The fasteners are T30 Torx and are left hand thread. To remove, rotate in the clockwise direction.

Remove the engine hoisting hook fasteners then remove the hook from the engine (green arrows).
Figure 23

Remove the engine hoisting hook fasteners then remove the hook from the engine (green arrows).

Remove the seven 10mm VANOS actuator fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 24

Remove the seven 10mm VANOS actuator fasteners (green arrows).

Slide the VANOS actuator off the cylinder head and remove it.
Figure 25

Slide the VANOS actuator off the cylinder head and remove it. Be prepared to catch the excess oil in a rag.

Using a 32mm deep socket or wrench, remove the primary timing chain tensioner.
Figure 26

Using a 32mm deep socket or wrench, remove the primary timing chain tensioner. The tensioner is located at the right side of the engine.

Next, you have to compress the secondary timing chain tensioner and lock it into the compressed position.
Figure 27

Next, you have to compress the secondary timing chain tensioner and lock it into the compressed position. It is located at the top front of the cylinder head. Push down on the top guide. Then insert a pin (green arrow) into the hole in the tensioner (yellow arrow).

Working at the exhaust camshaft, remove the three 10mm impulse wheel fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 28

Working at the exhaust camshaft, remove the three 10mm impulse wheel fasteners (green arrows).

Next, remove the impulse wheel from the camshaft.
Figure 29

Next, remove the impulse wheel from the camshaft.

Then remove the spring plate.
Figure 30

Then remove the spring plate. As you remove these items, note the installation orientation. I like to lay them down in the order they came off.

Then remove the intake camshaft sprocket 10mm nuts (green arrows).
Figure 31

Then remove the intake camshaft sprocket 10mm nuts (green arrows). Then remove the spring plate. It is labeled "front".

Now, back at the exhaust camshaft, remove the three E8 inverted Torx bolts (green arrows).
Figure 32

Now, back at the exhaust camshaft, remove the three E8 inverted Torx bolts (green arrows). Only two of the E8 inverted Torx bolts are shown. My hand blocks one.

A few mechanics I know like to zip tie the camshaft timing chain onto the sprockets before removing it.
Figure 33

A few mechanics I know like to zip tie the camshaft timing chain onto the sprockets before removing it. This helps to keep them in the right order and prepped for reinstallation in case you don't have the special tool.

Lift the camshaft timing chain with the sprockets off the camshafts.
Figure 34

Lift the camshaft timing chain with the sprockets off the camshafts. The intake camshaft splined shaft (green arrow) will come off with them.

Remove the four 10mm timing chain tensioner fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 35

Remove the four 10mm timing chain tensioner fasteners (green arrows). Then remove the timing chain tensioner from the cylinder head.

Pull the splined shaft out of the exhaust camshaft and store it with the other exhaust camshaft components.
Figure 36

Pull the splined shaft out of the exhaust camshaft and store it with the other exhaust camshaft components.

Next, remove the exhaust camshaft sprocket from the timing chain.
Figure 37

Next, remove the exhaust camshaft sprocket from the timing chain. Then store the sprocket with the other exhaust camshaft components. For now, loop the timing chain on top of the exhaust camshaft end to temporarily store it.

Now you have to remove the four E8 inverted Torx timing chain cover fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 38

Now you have to remove the four E8 inverted Torx timing chain cover fasteners (green arrows). Be sure to note the location of each fastener, as they are different lengths. Then remove the timing chain guide (yellow arrow) from the cylinder head.

We are now at the part where the cylinder head bolts can be removed (green arrows).
Figure 39

We are now at the part where the cylinder head bolts can be removed (green arrows). There are two ways to do this; you can remove the camshafts first or leave the camshafts installed. I prefer to leave the camshafts installed, as this means less time the job will take. There are notches in the camshafts that allow access to the bolts. Remove all fourteen E12 inverted Torx bolts from the cylinder head. Start in the center of the cylinder head and work your way outward.

Once the bolts are loose, I remove them with a magnet.
Figure 40

Once the bolts are loose, I remove them with a magnet.

Then I remove the washer from below the camshafts using a magnet.
Figure 41

Then I remove the washer from below the camshafts using a magnet.

Now you can remove the cylinder head from the engine.
Figure 42

Now you can remove the cylinder head from the engine. Have a friend to help you lift it off. Especially if the engine is installed make sure you have a helper, as it is long and awkward when lifting.

Next, remove the cylinder head gasket from the cylinder head.
Figure 43

Next, remove the cylinder head gasket from the cylinder head. Once the head is removed, send it to a machine shop to be cleaned and pressure checked for cracks and warping.

Remove all of the old head gasket material from the block.
Figure 44

Remove all of the old head gasket material from the block. I like to use the green 3M clean up tool (green arrow). It is safe to use on engines and does a great job of cleaning it up. Do not mar or scratch the surface while cleaning.

Check the block deck for warping.
Figure 45

Check the block deck for warping. A maximum of 0.05mm is allowed. Use a straight edge bar designed for checking engine straightness and a feeler gauge. If your head had to be machined, be sure you ordered the thicker head gasket to make up for the material that was removed. Working at the front of the block where the timing cover joins, apply the sealing compound 3 Bond 1209 over the joints.

Place the new cylinder head gasket on the block.
Figure 46

Place the new cylinder head gasket on the block. Be sure both alignment dowels are in good shape (green arrows). Lower the head back onto the engine, as you guide the timing chain up through the timing cover area.

Check that the cylinder 1 intake and exhaust camshaft lobes are pointing toward each other (yellow arrows) before installing the head onto the block.
Figure 47

Check that the cylinder 1 intake and exhaust camshaft lobes are pointing toward each other (yellow arrows) before installing the head onto the block. If you have to move the camshafts once the head is installed, rotate the crankshaft to 30° before TDC. Install the new cylinder head bolts into the cylinder head. Lightly coat the threads with clean engine oil and install them finger tight. Do not reuse old cylinder head bolts.

My head gasket came with the torque specs along with the tightening sequence.
Figure 48

My head gasket came with the torque specs along with the tightening sequence. This was quite handy. The cylinder head bolts are torqued in three stages.

Stage 1: Start by torqueing the head bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft-lb).
Figure 49

Stage 1: Start by torqueing the head bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft-lb). Start in the center and work your way outward, alternating side to side. Use the previous photo as a reference. After the initial torqueing, you will have to torque the bolts a total of two more times. Each time you will be rotating the head bolt an additional 90°.

Stage 2, use an angle finder and tighten the head bolts an additional 90°.
Figure 50

Stage 2, use an angle finder and tighten the head bolts an additional 90°. Start in the center and work your way outward, alternating side to side. Stage 3, use an angle finder and tighten the head bolts an additional 90°. Start in the center and work your way outward, alternating side to side.

Reinstall the timing chain guide onto the cylinder head (yellow arrow).
Figure 51

Reinstall the timing chain guide onto the cylinder head (yellow arrow). Then install and tighten the four E8 inverted Torx timing chain cover fasteners (green arrows). Be sure to use the earlier noted location of each fastener, as they are different lengths. Tighten the fasteners to 10 Nm (89 in-lb).

Lock the camshafts in place.
Figure 52

Lock the camshafts in place. Install the camshaft-locking jig (11 3 240) at the rear of the camshafts (green arrow). The jig should slide down onto square bosses on the end of the camshafts. Then secure them together. Follow the instructions that came along with your special tool kit to ensure proper use. If needed, rotate the camshafts slightly to properly engage the tool.

Next, install the crankshaft locking pin tool (11 2 300) into the hole that the dust plug was removed from.
Figure 53

Next, install the crankshaft locking pin tool (11 2 300) into the hole that the dust plug was removed from. When installing the tool, push it in until it bottoms out. Slowly rotate the engine until the pin drops in about 12mm further. Once the tool is installed, confirm that the crankshaft can no longer be rotated. Follow the instructions that came along with your special tool kit to ensure proper use. While doing this, be sure to keep some tension on the timing chain. Just hold it in the air. Help from an assistant may be needed.

Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the timing chain onto the exhaust camshaft.
Figure 54

Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the timing chain onto the exhaust camshaft. Be sure that the arrow on the sprocket (yellow arrow) points to the cylinder head sealing surface. Install the sprocket fasteners (green arrows) a few turns. Do not tighten them yet.

Next, screw in the timing chain pretension tool 11 4 220 into the main timing chain tensioner hole.
Figure 55

Next, screw in the timing chain pretension tool 11 4 220 into the main timing chain tensioner hole. Do not tighten it yet. Just screw it in until it comes in contact with the timing chain guide.

Check that the arrow (yellow arrow) on the exhaust sprocket is still aligned with the cylinder head sealing surface.
Figure 56

Check that the arrow (yellow arrow) on the exhaust sprocket is still aligned with the cylinder head sealing surface. Adjust it if needed. Then tighten the three 11mm studs (green arrows) on the camshaft sprocket that we installed finger tight earlier. Tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb).

Install the timing chain tensioner to the cylinder head.
Figure 57

Install the timing chain tensioner to the cylinder head. Then tighten the four 10mm timing chain tensioner fasteners (green arrows). Be sure that the tensioner is still compressed with the pin.

Install the exhaust camshaft splined spacer (green arrow) so that the gap in the splines aligns with the gap in the camshaft splines (red arrows).
Figure 58

Install the exhaust camshaft splined spacer (green arrow) so that the gap in the splines aligns with the gap in the camshaft splines (red arrows).

Slide the exhaust camshaft splined shaft into the camshaft sprocket.
Figure 59

Slide the exhaust camshaft splined shaft into the camshaft sprocket. Slide it in until the three threaded holes on the camshaft sprocket are centered in the slots of the splined spacer (yellow arrow).

Place the intake and exhaust camshaft sprocket with the secondary timing chain into BMW special tool 11 6 180.
Figure 60

Place the intake and exhaust camshaft sprocket with the secondary timing chain into BMW special tool 11 6 180. Align the intake sprocket so the splined gap is in the position shown (green arrow).

Remove the secondary timing chain and camshaft sprockets from the tool.
Figure 61

Remove the secondary timing chain and camshaft sprockets from the tool. Then install them on the engine in the same way they were orientated in the tool. The gap in the splines should align (green arrow).

Slide the splined shaft onto the intake camshaft until you can only see 1mm of the splines (green arrow).
Figure 62

Slide the splined shaft onto the intake camshaft until you can only see 1mm of the splines (green arrow).

Install the intake camshaft spring plate so that you can read FRONT.
Figure 63

Install the intake camshaft spring plate so that you can read FRONT. Then tighten the three 10mm nuts (green arrows) finger tight.

Now, back at the exhaust camshaft, install the three E8 inverted Torx bolts (green arrows).
Figure 64

Now, back at the exhaust camshaft, install the three E8 inverted Torx bolts (green arrows). Only two are shown. My hand is blocking the other one. Tighten them to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) Then back them off half a turn. Then install the thrust plate (yellow arrow).

Then install the spring plate.
Figure 65

Then install the spring plate. Make sure the marking F is facing outward.

Then install the camshaft impulse wheel (yellow arrow) and tighten the 10mm mounting nuts (green arrows) finger tight.
Figure 66

Then install the camshaft impulse wheel (yellow arrow) and tighten the 10mm mounting nuts (green arrows) finger tight.

Then pull the exhaust camshaft splined shaft out (green arrow) until it reaches the stop.
Figure 67

Then pull the exhaust camshaft splined shaft out (green arrow) until it reaches the stop.

Preload the timing chain tensioner tool 11 4 220 center bolt to 0.
Figure 68

Preload the timing chain tensioner tool 11 4 220 center bolt to 0.7 Nm (6 in-lb).

Preload the exhaust camshaft impulse wheel (yellow arrow) by hand and tighten the 10mm nuts finger tight (green arrows).
Figure 69

Preload the exhaust camshaft impulse wheel (yellow arrow) by hand and tighten the 10mm nuts finger tight (green arrows).

Place the VANOS set up bracket 11 6 150 onto cylinder head and evenly tighten the fasteners (green arrows) until it is flush with the cylinder head.
Figure 70

Place the VANOS set up bracket 11 6 150 onto cylinder head and evenly tighten the fasteners (green arrows) until it is flush with the cylinder head.

Now you can lock the camshaft adjustment fasteners down (green arrows).
Figure 71

Now you can lock the camshaft adjustment fasteners down (green arrows). First torque them all to 5 Nm. Then tighten the 10mm fasteners to 10 Nm (8 ft-lb). Then tighten the E8 inverted Torx fasteners to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb).

Remove the crankshaft locking pin and the camshaft locking tools.
Figure 72

Remove the crankshaft locking pin and the camshaft locking tools. Rotate the engine one full rotation and confirm that the first camshaft lobes point toward each other (green arrows). Reinstall the crankshaft-locking tool. Confirm the proper alignment. The camshaft-locking tool should be flush or almost flush with the intake side of the cylinder head sealing surface. 1mm is allowed if you're using a feeler gauge to check. Once you have confirmed the camshafts are timed correctly, remove the special tool from the front of the cylinder head (11 6 150). Clean the VANOS unit-sealing surface. Then install the new VANOS actuator gasket. Install the VANOS actuator on the cylinder head. Install the VANOS actuator fasteners and tighten. Install the engine-hoisting hook and tighten. Next, you will install the left hand thread VANOS fasteners and tighten. Be sure to use the correct amount of torque. This connection is very important. Install the plastic plugs. They just push back into place. Then install the VANOS actuator metal plugs. Next, remove the camshaft and crankshaft locking tools. Reinstall the studs at the rear of the cylinder head and reassemble the valve cover and other items removed. The hydraulic VANOS piston to the camshaft splined shaft torque is 10 Nm (89 in-lb). The VANOS sealing plug torque is 50 Nm (37 ft-lb). Remove the crankshaft and camshaft locking tools. Install the new coolant pipe. Then install the VANOS line with the seal. Install the intake manifold. See our tech article on intake manifold replacing. Install the exhaust manifold. See our tech article on exhaust manifold replacing. Install the valve cover. See our tech article on valve cover gasket replacing. Install the engine cooling fan and shroud. See our tech article on engine cooling fan replacing. The remainder of the reassembly steps are the reverse of removing. Be sure to replace the engine oil and engine coolant when done. Bleed the cooling system and check for leaks.


Comments and Suggestions:
pgib8 Comments: why did you call for a 32mm deep socket for the tentioner? i specifically bought a 32mm deep socket for this job and now it doesn't fit because it's too long and the AC lines are in the way...
June 18, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Each manufacturer of sockets will vary. Not all made the same. This is what I use and it fits and works well. I use Snap On tools. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JJ Comments: Good day quick question, everything looks straight forward willing to try this but it seems like I would have a hard time with the exhaust manifold. Is it possible to remove the head along with the manifold still attached if I just remove the 4 nuts from the bottom? 04 530i
April 1, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, I have done that on older cars, but it may be quite cumbersome with the precat, headers attached. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
kennyG94 Comments: does the motor have to be removed to do the head gasket??
March 21, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, some steps are shown on a removed engine for clarity and ease of photography. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Vic Comments: Can you guys please correct picture/comment alignment? I'm about to do the head gasket job and would like to use this article as a reference.
February 27, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I had the article corrected and it is ready to go live but in a long service queue. I'll email you. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
sam Comments: What is the blue tap in Picture 9? What is the purpose of that?
February 14, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That would be removed so that you can install the crankshaft lock pin. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
concerned Comments: "Nick at Pelican Parts" - when do you plan on fixing this article?? the only two comments on it are both over a year old, commenting on the pictures and steps not matching up.
September 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I answer tech questions. Article edits and corrections I pass onto the web team. Thanks for keeping on us. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jr Comments: The Steps don't match up with pictures for this article
"M54 6-Cylinder Engine Head Gasket Replacement"
August 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for catching that, I will have the article fixed - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Todd Comments: Captions don't match up with the illustrations on this one, guys.
March 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for catching that, I will have the article fixed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Tue 12/12/2017 02:51:29 AM