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Transmission Mount Replacing
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Transmission Mount Replacing

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$100

Talent:

****

Tools:

Set of sockets, 13mm, floor jack, wood blocks, 13mm wrench, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

BMW 525i/xi Sedan (2004-07)
BMW 528i xDrive Sedan (2009-10)
BMW 528i/xi Sedan (2008-10)
BMW 530i/xi Sedan (2004-07)
BMW 530xi Wagon (2006-07)
BMW 535i xDrive Sedan/Wagon (2009-10)
BMW 535i/xi Sedan (2008-10)
BMW 535xi Wagon (2008)
BMW 545i Sedan (2004-05)
BMW 550i Sedan (2006-10)

Parts Required:

Transmission mounts, nuts for the mounts

Hot Tip:

Replace in sets

Performance Gain:

Smooth driveline

Complementary Modification:

Replace driveshaft flex-disc at the same time

The BMW E60 drive drain (engine and transmission) is supported by a system of mounts. In front, the engine rests on two engine mounts, one on each side of the engine. At the rear, the transmission has two small rubber mounts that insulate it from the aluminum support bracket.

These mounts wear over time and cause a driveline vibration. Sometimes if they fail catastrophically, there will be a clunk when accelerating. When inspecting the mounts, look for dry rot and cracking. Engine mounts may be fluid filled, so if you see evidence of fluid leaks near the engine mounts that may be an indication of engine mount failure. When an engine mount begins to fail, you will feel more vibrations from the engine. The engine may sag in the engine bay or it may have excessive movement under torque if a mount is broken.

Check the transmission mounts to see if they have separated by jacking up the transmission. As you jack the transmission, monitor the mounts. They should stretch a little but stay in one piece. When replacing the mounts, I'd suggest replacing the nuts also. You are not required to, but I always feel better about having a new fastener, especially on something that takes as much stress as a mount. It's also not a bad idea to replace your driveshaft flex-disc at the same time. It is also made of rubber. If the mounts are worn out, the flex-disc can't be far behind.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Do not work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Vehicle models change and evolve, as they grow older, so the vehicle shown in our illustrations may vary slightly from yours. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing the transmission mounts.

The two rubber mounts are the same part number, located between the transmission (red arrow) and the aluminum support bracket (green arrow).
Figure 1

The two rubber mounts are the same part number, located between the transmission (red arrow) and the aluminum support bracket (green arrow).

Place a screw jack or hydraulic jack under the rear muffler (red arrow).
Figure 2

Place a screw jack or hydraulic jack under the rear muffler (red arrow).

Working at the center muffler hanger, behind the fuel tank (green arrow), lever the rubber hanger off the support using a pry bar (red arrow).
Figure 3

Working at the center muffler hanger, behind the fuel tank (green arrow), lever the rubber hanger off the support using a pry bar (red arrow).

Next, move forward on the exhaust to the center reinforcement (green arrow).
Figure 4

Next, move forward on the exhaust to the center reinforcement (green arrow). Remove the four 13mm fasteners (red arrows). Then remove the reinforcement from the body.

Now it is time to remove the final few supports for the exhaust and lower it.
Figure 5

Now it is time to remove the final few supports for the exhaust and lower it. First move to the rear of the muffler and remove the two 13mm nuts (red arrow, one shown).

Then remove the rear most hanger fastener (red arrow), a 13mm nut located to the left side of the tail pipe (green arrow).
Figure 6

Then remove the rear most hanger fastener (red arrow), a 13mm nut located to the left side of the tail pipe (green arrow).

Working at the transmission cross member, remove the E10 bolts while counter-holding the 13mm nuts (red arrows).
Figure 7

Working at the transmission cross member, remove the E10 bolts while counter-holding the 13mm nuts (red arrows). Note the bushing position when removing (red arrows) for reinstallation.

Lower the jack supporting the muffler about eight inches.
Figure 8

Lower the jack supporting the muffler about eight inches. Then remove the center heat shield fasteners (red arrow). There are eleven 8mm fasteners.

Once the fasteners have been removed, rotate the center heat shield toward the right side of the vehicle and pull it out from above the exhaust toward the rear of the vehicle (red arrow) and remove it.
Figure 9

Once the fasteners have been removed, rotate the center heat shield toward the right side of the vehicle and pull it out from above the exhaust toward the rear of the vehicle (red arrow) and remove it. At the front most corners of the heat shield, there are folded retaining tabs. Reach up under the plastic body shielding and unclip them.

Now move forward to the front pipe heat shield.
Figure 10

Now move forward to the front pipe heat shield. Remove the three 8mm fasteners (red arrow, one shown) and two 10mm sheet metal nuts.

Once the heat shield is free, move it down and away from the body and toward the rear of the vehicle.
Figure 11

Once the heat shield is free, move it down and away from the body and toward the rear of the vehicle. This one can stay in the vehicle if you want. You will have enough room to work around it.

Place a screw jack or hydraulic jack under the transmission (red arrow).
Figure 12

Place a screw jack or hydraulic jack under the transmission (red arrow).

Working at the transmission cross member, remove the two 13mm transmission mount nuts (red arrows) and the six 13mm cross member mounting bolts (green arrows).
Figure 13

Working at the transmission cross member, remove the two 13mm transmission mount nuts (red arrows) and the six 13mm cross member mounting bolts (green arrows).

With the cross member fasteners removed, pull the cross member (red arrow) down and away from the transmission.
Figure 14

With the cross member fasteners removed, pull the cross member (red arrow) down and away from the transmission. You will have to wiggle as you pull to disengage the tabs (red arrows) on the mounts.

With the support bracket out of the way, you can remove the transmission mounts.
Figure 15

With the support bracket out of the way, you can remove the transmission mounts. Remove the two 13mm nuts (red arrows). Then remove the mounts from the transmission.

When installing the new mounts, be sure the tab on the mount aligns with the slot in the transmission cross member. What I like to do is, install one mount to the cross member, then place the other in the cross member. I then install the cross member at an angle aligning the mount studs with the mounting bores. Install the nuts and tighten. Remember, you will have to align the rubber tabs with the cross member. This will require some wiggling of the cross member as you push it up. Then, tighten all of the fasteners for the transmission cross member. Assemble the remaining items in the reverse order of removal.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Boise Comments: One nut seems to be missing from the transmission mount for the 2010 BMW E60 5-series. Could this contribute to this seemingly loud noise upon braking and accelerating? The noise sounds like something bang something when the vehicle stops quickly or accelerating quickly, does missing one nut from atop the transmission mount warrant this kind of loud sounds? Or It has to be something else. If so, what is the part number for the nuts? it's a 13mm nut.
April 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, that is likely your noise.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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Page last updated: Mon 12/5/2016 02:42:14 AM