Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
Follow Pelican Parts on Facebook Follow Pelican Parts on Twitter Follow Pelican Parts on Instagram Follow Pelican Parts on YouTube Follow Pelican Parts on Pinterest Follow Pelican Parts on Tumblr
  Search our site:    
View Recent Cars  |   Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
Bookmark and Share

Pelican Technical Article:

Engine Mount Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$200

Talent:

***

Tools:

Set of sockets, (16mm), hydraulic or screw jack, block of wood, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

BMW 525i/xi Sedan (2004-07)
BMW 528i xDrive Sedan (2009-10)
BMW 528i/xi Sedan (2008-10)
BMW 530i/xi Sedan (2004-07)
BMW 530xi Wagon (2006-07)
BMW 535i xDrive Sedan/Wagon (2009-10)
BMW 535i/xi Sedan (2008-10)
BMW 535xi Wagon (2008)
BMW 545i Sedan (2004-05)
BMW 550i Sedan (2006-10)

Parts Required:

Motor mounts and fasteners

Hot Tip:

Replace in pairs

Performance Gain:

Reduce engine vibration

Complementary Modification:

Replace transmission mounts

The engine in your BMW has to be secured to the chassis in order to provide maximum power transfer. BMW achieves this by using a hydraulic motor mount (liquid filled). These mounts have hollow chambers inside that are filled with fluid that helps to create a stiff engine mount while maintaining the highest level of vibration dampening.

The E60 drive drain (engine and transmission) is supported by a system of mounts. In front, the engine rests on two engine mounts, one on each side of the engine. At the rear, the transmission rests on a pair of mounts, which are bolted to a support crossbeam underneath the vehicle.

When an engine mount begins to fail, you will feel more vibrations from the engine. The engine may sag within the engine bay or the engine may have excessive movement under torque if a mount is broken. When working under your vehicle, you may notice fluid leaking out of your engine mount(s). This means the mount has failed and should be replaced. Some BMW E60 models (for example all-wheel drive and turbocharged) do not have a lot of room for engine movement and access to the mounts. You will have to replace one side at a time while supporting the engine from below.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing the engine mounts on the BMW E60 with an M54 6-cylinder engine. Other engines are similar.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Jack up the front of your vehicle. See our tech article on jacking up your vehicle.

Remove the engine splash shields and reinforcement plates.

The following steps highlight removing the right side engine mount. Only remove the side you are currently replacing. Do one side at a time. The procedure is similar for the left side.

To access the motor mount, remove the air filter housing assembly (yellow arrow).
Figure 1

To access the motor mount, remove the air filter housing assembly (yellow arrow). Remove the two T30 Torx fasteners (red arrows). If needed, remove the electrical connectors at the alternator. Electrical connectors allow more working space and remove risk of damage.

Then disconnect the mass airflow sensor electrical connector (yellow arrow).
Figure 2

Then disconnect the mass airflow sensor electrical connector (yellow arrow). Now loosen the mass airflow sensor clamp (green arrow).

Next, unclip the three air filter lid clips (green arrows).
Figure 3

Next, unclip the three air filter lid clips (green arrows).

Once unclipped, lift the air filter-housing lid out of the engine compartment.
Figure 4

Once unclipped, lift the air filter-housing lid out of the engine compartment. 

Once the lid has been removed, lift the air filter housing out of the engine compartment.
Figure 5

Once the lid has been removed, lift the air filter housing out of the engine compartment. Lift the rear of the housing first, detaching it from the fresh air duct (red arrow).

Working in the engine bay, locate the top of the engine mount.
Figure 6

Working in the engine bay, locate the top of the engine mount. The left side mount is shown in this photo looking past the alternator. Loosen the 16mm nut (green arrow) from the mount. Keep the nut on for now to help the mount remain aligned (inset).

Working in the engine bay, locate the top of the right mount.
Figure 7

Working in the engine bay, locate the top of the right mount. The right side engine mount is shown in this photo, looking down past the exhaust manifold. Remove the 16mm nut from the mount (green arrows). The inset photo shows a zoomed in view of the nut.

Next, you have to remove the E10 engine mount bolts (red arrow).
Figure 8

Next, you have to remove the E10 engine mount bolts (red arrow). The rear bolt is shown. The front bolt is on the opposite side of the mount. In order to remove the rear bolt on the right side mount,  you have to remove the ground strap (green arrow).

Working from below the engine, remove the 13mm ground strap nut (green arrow).
Figure 9

Working from below the engine, remove the 13mm ground strap nut (green arrow). Then remove both E10 engine mount bolts (red arrow).

When replacing the right side mount, you will want to jack as close to the engine mount bracket as possible.
Figure 10

When replacing the right side mount, you will want to jack as close to the engine mount bracket as possible. Next, support the engine from below using a jack (green arrow). Place a block of wood between the corner of the engine oil pan and the jack pad. Raise the jack until the engine mount stud hole (red arrow) clears the engine mount stud.

Raise the engine until the engine mount can be removed from the vehicle.
Figure 11

Raise the engine until the engine mount can be removed from the vehicle. You will see the upper engine mount stud move free of the upper bracket. Remove the engine mount from the vehicle. Install the new engine mount. Slowly lower the engine down onto the mount. Install the new engine mount nuts and torque them to spec. Then repeat the procedure for the opposite side mount. Reassemble the remaining items and recheck that all engine mount nuts are tight.

If replacing the left side mount, leave the right side mount top nut loose.
Figure 12

If replacing the left side mount, leave the right side mount top nut loose. Then remove the left side fasteners from above the engine. Raise the engine by the corner of the oil pan, spreading the jacking force evenly. Raise the engine until the engine mount can be removed from the vehicle. You will see the upper engine mount stud move free of the upper bracket. Remove the engine mount from the vehicle. Install the new engine mount. Slowly lower the engine down on the mount. Install the new engine mount nuts and torque them. Reassemble the remaining items and recheck that all engine mount nuts are tight.



Bookmark and Share
Comments and Suggestions:
jake Comments: regarding figure 1, are you saying that the alternator has to be removed? removing the alternator in my '08 535xi requires me to lift up my intake manifold about an inch and also requires me to remove the oil filter housing.
November 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, that is a typo. Just the harness may have to be removed. Should read, To access the alternator and access the electrical connections at the rear of the alternator,.... - Nick at Pelican Parts  
TANK Comments: What are the torque specs for the engine mount bolts that bolt the engine mount support to the block? There are 2 on the bottom of the support that are the same length and one in the top that is longer in a triangle pattern. I can't even find this in my bentley manual!
August 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have that info handy.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Coyote Comments: The engine mount bracket bolts are sheerer off in the motor block on passenger side of engine. Is this a common thing with this model. The bolts appear to be aluminum, any tips tricks or suggestions would be appreciated thanks
February 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Haven't seen that one much. Could be old bolts we reinstalled, then they failed. They are aluminum. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

  Search our site:    

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Privacy Statement]
 [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping] [Map to our Location] [Careers]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc.

Page last updated: Wed 12/7/2016 02:42:23 AM