Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
Follow Pelican Parts on Facebook Follow Pelican Parts on Twitter Follow Pelican Parts on Instagram Follow Pelican Parts on YouTube Follow Pelican Parts on Pinterest Follow Pelican Parts on Tumblr
  Search our site:    
View Recent Cars  |   Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
 >  >
N62 8-Cylinder Coolant Pump Replacement
 
Bookmark and Share

Pelican Technical Article:

N62 8-Cylinder Coolant Pump Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$150

Talent:

****

Tools:

Flat head screwdriver, 10mm socket, 10mm wrench, 22mm wrench,

Applicable Models:

BMW 545i Sedan (2004-05)
BMW 550i Sedan (2006-10)

Parts Required:

Coolant pump, hoses, seals, engine coolant, coolant hose cap (left side of coolant pump)

Hot Tip:

Work with a cool engine

Performance Gain:

Car will cool down again

Complementary Modification:

Change thermostat, serpentine belt, radiator hoses

BMW E60 cooling system components include:

  • Radiator and coolant overflow tank.
  • M54 and 8-cylinder engines: Belt driven coolant pump bolted to the front of the engine block.
  • N52 and N54 engines: Electric coolant pump bolted to the right front of the engine block.
  • Electric cooling fan attached to rear of radiator. The cooling fan is controlled by the engine control module (ECM) via an output final stage.
  • Electrically heated thermostat.
  • Automatic transmission cooler (heat exchanger).
  • Heater valve and heater core (for climate control).
  • Coolant level sensor inside expansion tank.
  • Coolant temperature sensor at cylinder head.
  • Radiator outlet temperature sensor
  • Coolant hose and lines.

When a coolant pump begins to fail, you'll notice that the car tends to overheat at low engine speed, such as sitting at a stoplight. When you accelerate, the engine temperature will drop. Now, this is not always indicative of a coolant pump, but a good starting point. You may also want to try squeezing the top radiator hose with the engine warmed up and running. You should feel pressure build up on the back of the hose and surge once it is released. If you feel no pressure, it's a fair bet that the coolant pump is failing. Sometimes, you can also see a slight drip coming from the coolant pump housing itself. These weep holes are cast into the pump housing and allow excess coolant to drain out if it has leaked past the various seals in the pump. The bearing can fail creating a grinding noise or creating free-play in the shaft also resulting in a coolant leak.

The thermostat is attached to the right side of the coolant pump. It is not necessary to replace it when replacing your coolant pump. If it is within your budget, I would suggest doing so. At the minimum, replace the thermostat sealing O-ring.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing the belt-driven water pump on BMW E60 8-cylinder models.

Be sure to work with a cool engine and confirm the cooling system lacks pressure before opening the cooling system.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Do not work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Vehicle models change and evolve, as they grow older, so the vehicle shown in our illustrations may vary slightly from yours. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Drain the cooling system. See our tech article on Cooling System Draining and Filling.

Remove the cooling fan. See our tech article on Radiator Cooling Fan Replacing.

The coolant pump is located at the front of the engine, just below the throttle housing (green arrow).
Figure 1

The coolant pump is located at the front of the engine, just below the throttle housing (green arrow).

Working at the intake air duct, pull the vacuum line (green arrow) off the air duct.
Figure 2

Working at the intake air duct, pull the vacuum line (green arrow) off the air duct.

Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen both the intake air duct hose clamps (green arrows).
Figure 3

Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen both the intake air duct hose clamps (green arrows).

Once the clamps are loose, pull the air duct off the throttle housing, then pull it off the intake air box.
Figure 4

Once the clamps are loose, pull the air duct off the throttle housing, then pull it off the intake air box. Place the duct aside.

Working next to the alternator, locate the drive belt tensioner.
Figure 5

Working next to the alternator, locate the drive belt tensioner. Using a T60 Torx bit, rotate the tensioner in a clockwise direction. Once tension is removed from the belt, pull the belt off the alternator pulley. Then remove the belt from the engine.

Working below the throttle housing, disconnect the thermostat and coolant temperature sensor electrical connectors (green arrows) by pressing the wire release tab and pulling it off.
Figure 6

Working below the throttle housing, disconnect the thermostat and coolant temperature sensor electrical connectors (green arrows) by pressing the wire release tab and pulling it off. The coolant temperature sensor is shown already unplugged.

Remove the four 10mm water pump pulley fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 7

Remove the four 10mm water pump pulley fasteners (green arrows). You will have to counterhold the pulley. This can be done by hand as the bolts are not very tight.

Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump.
Figure 8

Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump. If needed, gently lever the pulley off. Be careful as it is made of plastic. While the pulley is off, inspect it for small cracks or damage. The pulleys can fail, although not that often. These darn pulleys might fail least when we expect it.

Working at the radiator hoses, use a flathead screwdriver to lever out the coolant hose retaining clips (green arrows).
Figure 9

Working at the radiator hoses, use a flathead screwdriver to lever out the coolant hose retaining clips (green arrows). Be sure to pull the retaining clips out until they rest at the stop (yellow arrow).

Remove the radiator hoses from the thermostat and coolant pump.
Figure 10

Remove the radiator hoses from the thermostat and coolant pump. This can be tricky. The hoses have been attached for quite a while and may not come off easily. You will want to pull the hose off in the direction of the green arrow, while rocking it back and forth. Be careful not to damage the hose if you plan to reuse it. Once the hose moves off the thermostat slightly, you can use a flathead screwdriver to gently lever the hose off while pulling it. Be very careful with this technique, as everything you are prying on is made of plastic and can break.

Working at the left side of the coolant pump, use a flathead screwdriver to lever out the coolant hose retaining clip (green arrow).
Figure 11

Working at the left side of the coolant pump, use a flathead screwdriver to lever out the coolant hose retaining clip (green arrow). Once the clip is disengaged, remove the hose in the direction of the yellow arrow to remove it. This photo shows an N62 engine with an air-cooled alternator. That means the left side of the coolant pump is plugged with a cap. If this vehicle had a water cooled alternator, there would be a hose here in place of the cap. I always replace these caps, as they can leak when reinstalling.

Working at the right side bottom of the coolant pump (blue arrow), use a flathead screwdriver to lever out the coolant hose (red arrow) retaining clip (green arrow).
Figure 12

Working at the right side bottom of the coolant pump (blue arrow), use a flathead screwdriver to lever out the coolant hose (red arrow) retaining clip (green arrow). Once the clip is disengaged, remove the hose in the direction of the yellow arrow to remove it. The main photo shows the hose as viewed using an inspection mirror. Note that the clip for the hose disengages up toward the top of the coolant pump. Once the final hose is disconnected, remove the thermostat. See our tech article on Thermostat Replacing.

Remove the four 10mm water pump mounting fasteners (green arrows).
Figure 13

Remove the four 10mm water pump mounting fasteners (green arrows). Once the easy-to-access four are removed, loosen the final 10mm fastener (yellow arrow). You will have to use an open end wrench to loosen this one, as a swivel socket won't fit. BMW instructs us to remove the crankshaft pulley to get this bolt out. I find if I loosen it with an open end wrench, then tilt the coolant pump when removing, the pulley can stay installed, which saves me a good amount of time.

Using a large flathead screwdriver or pry bar, gently lever the coolant pump away from the timing cover.
Figure 14

Using a large flathead screwdriver or pry bar, gently lever the coolant pump away from the timing cover. There is a tab (green arrow) on the coolant pump for levering.

Tilt the top of the coolant pump away from the engine as you lift.
Figure 15

Tilt the top of the coolant pump away from the engine as you lift. The bottom fastener (green arrow) will just clear the timing cover and allow the coolant pump to be removed.

With the coolant pump on the bench, remove the coolant temperature sensor using a 22mm wrench.
Figure 16

With the coolant pump on the bench, remove the coolant temperature sensor using a 22mm wrench. Install the coolant temperature sensor into the new coolant pump using a new sealing ring. Before installing the new coolant pump, thoroughly clean the water pump mounting surface and check for debris inside the coolant pump cavity (inside timing cover).

Install the coolant pump with the bottom fastener in pump body, tilting in as you remove it. Once in, install the lower fastener a few turns. Hand-tighten the remaining fasteners in a crisscross pattern. Once the water pump is flush with the engine, tighten all of the fasteners. Install the water pump pulley and tighten the fasteners. Install the engine drive belt, cooling fan, and fill and bleed the cooling system. Once complete, check the cooling system for leaks and top up the cooling system. 



Bookmark and Share
Comments and Suggestions:
AJ Comments: Yes, thanks for the post. And, yes I agree with Mike - get the tstat out of the way early. I couldn't get the bottom bolt back in after 3 hours. Took the a/c belt off and LOOSENED the crank shaft pulley and the bottom bolt went right in & also gives more room to get the small wrench on. Problem comes with getting a/c belt back on without special tool. Need 2 people, clamp belt on a/c pulley I used a smallish trigger clamp, keep pressure on belt as it heads to a/c & walk belt on crank shaft pulley with screw driver. Same person should operate the screw driver and rotate the crankshaft. Other thoughts: replace the belts if you haven’t; order the seal between the pump and tstat when you order the pump; need torx bits up to T60; need 27mm socket for bolt to rotate crank shaft and remove top of air box and filter for more room to work.
August 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Comments: Thanks for posting this. It was a big help. Man, getting that bottom water pump bolt threaded into the hole was a BEAR! Like they couldn't have made it 1mm shorter? Would've made a big difference. Getting the lower right passenger side hose of was really tough because of not being able to see it. I found it easier to take off the thermostat first.
December 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

  Search our site:    

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Privacy Statement]
 [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping] [Map to our Location] [Careers]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc.

Page last updated: Sat 12/3/2016 02:24:28 AM