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Audi A4 Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Audi A4 Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$150

Talent:

**

Tools:

T20 Torx, 22mm wrench, 13mm flare nut wrenches, power bleeder, Audi scan tool

Applicable Models:

Audi A4 (2002-05)
Audi A4 Cabriolet (2003-06)

Parts Required:

New master cylinder, reservoir, brake fluid

Hot Tip:

Use paper towels and plastic bags to contain any fluid leaks

Performance Gain:

Better braking

Complementary Modification:

Replace brake booster

Like many modern manufactures Audi shares components and even platforms across its many model lines. This article is based on one of those shared components but the work may have been performed on a different model than your vehicle. While some fasteners and other hardware types and sizes may be different, all of the information you need to safely complete the project is included in this article. If you have any questions, comments or feedback please contact us using the comment section below or join us on one of the world's best automotive forums for additional assistance.

If you are getting a sound from your rear wheels like a small jet trying to take off and it increases with the speed of the vehicle you may need a new rear wheel bearing.

 rear wheel bear and hub come as one piece so you do not need to worry about pressing them together. Removal and replacement is easy as long as you have the right tools. You will need a three arm puller to perform this work. 

Begin by safely raising and supporting your vehicle. Then remove the rear tires. Please see our article on safely raising and supporting your car. You will also need to remove the brake caliper and rotor. Please see our article on removing your caliper and rotor for further help.


With the rotor off begin by using a flathead screwdriver and prying off the dust cap (red arrow).
Figure 1

With the rotor off begin by using a flathead screwdriver and prying off the dust cap (red arrow).

With the dust cap off (red arrow) you can see the 18mm triple square bolt (yellow arrow) that holds the hub/bearing to the bearing carrier.
Figure 2

With the dust cap off (red arrow) you can see the 18mm triple square bolt (yellow arrow) that holds the hub/bearing to the bearing carrier.

 Remove the 18mm triple square bolt. It is torqued to 180NM plus 180 degrees so you will need a breaker bar to remove it (red arrow).
Figure 3

 Remove the 18mm triple square bolt. It is torqued to 180NM plus 180 degrees so you will need a breaker bar to remove it (red arrow).

The nut is the triple square bolt (red arrow). This bolt is single use only and must be replaced once removed.
Figure 4

The nut is the triple square bolt (red arrow). This bolt is single use only and must be replaced once removed.

Reinsert the bolt back into the bearing carrier to use a press point for the puller.
Figure 5

Reinsert the bolt back into the bearing carrier to use a press point for the puller. Only install the bolt approximately an inch back into the carrier so you have room for the bearing to move forward. Use a three arm puller (red arrow) and pull the old hub/bearing off. It is not on the axle very tight and should slip right off.

The bearing and hub should come right off as one piece (red arrow).
Figure 6

The bearing and hub should come right off as one piece (red arrow).

Clean the stub axle and check for any signs of damage (red arrow).
Figure 7

Clean the stub axle and check for any signs of damage (red arrow). If the old bearing was really bad there may be scoring and damage to the axle. Replace as needed. Please see our article on replacing your rear bearing carrier.

If you can, let the bearing sit out in the sun for a little time to warm it up and help it expand.
Figure 8

If you can, let the bearing sit out in the sun for a little time to warm it up and help it expand. Place the new hub/bearing on the stub axle taking care to make sure it is centered. You should push it on far enough so you can thread the new triple square bolt on. Use the bolt to seat the new bearing and torque to specs. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Brad Comments: This is all screwed up in several ways.
May 18, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the note. We are working on getting it fixed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Framosa2000 Comments: Wrong pic's or wrong instructions to this job...
February 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for catching that. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Fri 8/18/2017 02:53:47 AM