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Audi A4 Fuel Pump and Level Sender Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Audi A4 Fuel Pump and Level Sender Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$265 to $420

Talent:

***

Tools:

Philips head screwdriver, large channel locks, extraction pump (optional)

Applicable Models:

Audi A4 1.8 T (2002-08)

Parts Required:

Fuel pump/ level sender, fuel pump sealing O-ring

Hot Tip:

Work in a well ventilated area

Performance Gain:

Better running engine

Complementary Modification:

Replace fuel filter

The Audi A4s are known for having problems with the fuel pump but replacement of the pump is relatively easy. The front wheel drive models have a single unit that contains both the fuel pump and the fuel level sender. The fuel supply, vent and return lines all attach to the top of the early units but are replaced in the front wheel drive with a pump that only takes the fuel and supply and return line in 2004. Make sure to double check your pump/level sender before ordering. If you start to have fuel pump problems, you should replace it right away as when they fail completely, you may be left with an engine that doesn't run at all.

It is best to replace your fuel pump with the fuel tank drained. This reduces the amount of possible spilled fuel and fuel vapors, but if necessary work can be performed with fuel in the tank as long as you use common sense and follow a few safety precautions. When replacing, work in a well ventilated area. Working outdoors is a good choice. Do not use incandescent work lights or power tools and DO NOT smoke. Fuel and fuel vapors are highly combustible. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the fuel cap. Then slide an anti-static siphon hose down the fuel filler neck. Once the hose has bottomed out, pump fuel out of the fuel tank into an approved storage container. You can refill the tank with this fuel when the job is complete. Always wear gloves when working with gasoline.

Disconnect the negative battery cable (yellow arrow) from the battery post (red arrow) and place it somewhere where it cannot come in contact with the post while working on the car.
Figure 1

Disconnect the negative battery cable (yellow arrow) from the battery post (red arrow) and place it somewhere where it cannot come in contact with the post while working on the car.

Access to the pump/level sender unit on the front wheel drive vehicles is through an access panel in the trunk area.
Figure 2

Access to the pump/level sender unit on the front wheel drive vehicles is through an access panel in the trunk area. You can access it either through the trunk or fold the right side rear seat down. Slide the trunk panel out and you will see the access panel (red arrow).

Use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the three screws holding the access panel in place (red arrows).
Figure 3

Use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the three screws holding the access panel in place (red arrows). Lift up the panel using care not to ruin the gasket between the panel and body.

There are two electrical connectors on top of the pump; one is just held in place there and is not connected to the pump (red arrow).
Figure 4

There are two electrical connectors on top of the pump; one is just held in place there and is not connected to the pump (red arrow). Simply pull this out from its mount and set it aside. The other connection is the electrical connection for the pump (yellow arrow).

It is easier to remove the vent line first by pushing in on the end of the connector (red arrow) and pulling the connection off the vent nipple on the pump (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

It is easier to remove the vent line first by pushing in on the end of the connector (red arrow) and pulling the connection off the vent nipple on the pump (yellow arrow). This will make getting access to the electrical connection on the pump easier (green arrow).

Release the clip on the connection (red arrow) and remove the electrical connection from the pump (yellow arrow).
Figure 6

Release the clip on the connection (red arrow) and remove the electrical connection from the pump (yellow arrow).

Disconnect the fuel supply line (red arrow) and the return line (yellow arrow) by squeezing in the tabs on the ends of the connectors and wiggling and pulling them straight off.
Figure 7

Disconnect the fuel supply line (red arrow) and the return line (yellow arrow) by squeezing in the tabs on the ends of the connectors and wiggling and pulling them straight off.

Clean around the pump locking ring so as to not get dirt into the tank when removing it.
Figure 8

Clean around the pump locking ring so as to not get dirt into the tank when removing it. Audi makes a special tool for removing the locking ring but you should be able to get a large set of channel locks and carefully turn the ring to unlock it (red arrows). Do not attempt to unlock the ring by using a large flathead screwdriver and hammer and tapping the ring until it unlocks; this will usually just result in damage to the plastic nubs on the ring.

Pull the pump and sealing ring from the tank.
Figure 9

Pull the pump and sealing ring from the tank. Make sure to use care when removing the level arm, as you have to turn the pump sideways to get it out (red arrow). Always use a new seal between the tank and pump when reinstalling.

In some of the pumps you can replace the fuel level sending unit.
Figure 10

In some of the pumps you can replace the fuel level sending unit. Remove the wires from the unit (yellow arrow) and then the sending unit from the pump (red arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal.




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