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Audi A4 Muffler Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Audi A4 Muffler Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$75 to $1,600

Talent:

**

Tools:

17mm, 13mm wrench, penetrating oil, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, auto creeper

Applicable Models:

Audi A4 (2002-05)
Audi A4 Cabriolet (2003-06)

Parts Required:

New mufflers

Hot Tip:

Don't work on a hot exhaust

Performance Gain:

Quieter car

Complementary Modification:

New O2 sensors

The Audi A4 1.8L uses a muffler system that goes from a single pipe from the catalytic converter and splits from a single primary muffler to two mufflers at the end of the system. Our project car's mufflers were welded together and left no place where you could unbolt them other than where the cat and exhaust pipe are joined. If you need to replace a single muffler tailpipe, you can cut the pipes where they are straight and insert a muffler clamp to join them together again.

If they are bolted together, replacement is an easy process, primarily because the exhaust components and bolts are very easily accessible. One thing to remember though, the muffler assembly is quite heavy and very unwieldy to manipulate under the car - this is a project best performed with a helper. This article will show you how to remove and replace components from the front of the system rearward.

The Audi A4 1.
Figure 1

The Audi A4 1.8L uses a muffler system that has a single pipe from the catalytic converter (yellow arrow) and splits from the primary muffler to two mufflers at the end of the system (red arrows).

To remove the primary muffler; begin by removing the exhaust clamp between the cat and the muffler pipe.
Figure 2

To remove the primary muffler; begin by removing the exhaust clamp between the cat and the muffler pipe. It is a good idea to hit the two 17mm nuts and bolts with a little penetrating oil before attempting to remove them (red arrow). The clamps connect the pipes and with it removed the pipes are independent of each other.

There is a cross brace at the rear or the tunnel that you will need to remove to get the exhaust out.
Figure 3

There is a cross brace at the rear or the tunnel that you will need to remove to get the exhaust out. Use a 17mm socket (red arrows) and a T20 Torx (yellow arrows) and remove the bolts. Wiggle the brace out from one side of the under body tray and remove it from the car.

The primary muffler is held in place by two hangers attached to rubber isolating mounts (red arrows).
Figure 4

The primary muffler is held in place by two hangers attached to rubber isolating mounts (red arrows). Note: on some vehicles the pipe from the rear of the primary muffler clamps to each tail muffler; ours were welded in place (yellow arrows).

You can remove the muffler hanger from the rubber mount (red arrow) by lifting the weight of the muffler and sliding the hanger out from the rubber mount.
Figure 5

You can remove the muffler hanger from the rubber mount (red arrow) by lifting the weight of the muffler and sliding the hanger out from the rubber mount. Check the condition of the mount and replace as needed.

The rear hanger is removed from the rubber mount in the same fashion as the front hanger (red arrow).
Figure 6

The rear hanger is removed from the rubber mount in the same fashion as the front hanger (red arrow).

The two rear mufflers on our project vehicle came with the pipes welded to the primary muffler.
Figure 7

The two rear mufflers on our project vehicle came with the pipes welded to the primary muffler. You can still replace the rear muffler by cutting the pipe in a straight section (red arrow) and then joining the new muffler and pipe with an exhaust clamp. The rear mufflers are attached in the middle by a cross support bracket. If you are replacing only one muffler, you need to remove the 13mm nut (yellow arrow) and separate the pipes.

Make sure you carefully measure the distance between the cut and where to cut the new pipe.
Figure 8

Make sure you carefully measure the distance between the cut and where to cut the new pipe. The connector has an inner sleeve that compresses around the pipes when tightening (red arrow) and will seal everything up air tight.

When installing the new connector make sure that when you mount it the nuts and bolts are NOT positioned below the lowest height of the connector (red line and yellow arrow).
Figure 9

When installing the new connector make sure that when you mount it the nuts and bolts are NOT positioned below the lowest height of the connector (red line and yellow arrow).

There is one hanger for each of the two rear mufflers (red arrows).
Figure 10

There is one hanger for each of the two rear mufflers (red arrows).

You can remove the muffler hanger from the rubber mount (red arrow) by lifting the weight of the muffler and sliding the hanger out from the rubber mount.
Figure 11

You can remove the muffler hanger from the rubber mount (red arrow) by lifting the weight of the muffler and sliding the hanger out from the rubber mount. Check the condition of the mount (yellow arrows) and replace as needed.

When installing the new muffler, make sure that the gap between the top of the tailpipe and the lower opening in the valance is at least 20mm.
Figure 12

When installing the new muffler, make sure that the gap between the top of the tailpipe and the lower opening in the valance is at least 20mm.

The upper rear section of the tip should be between 10-16mm from the rear valance.
Figure 13

The upper rear section of the tip should be between 10-16mm from the rear valance. Hang everything while it is loose and then tighten everything up once all the adjustments have been made.

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