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914 Valve Adjustment Made Easy
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

914 Valve Adjustment Made Easy

Time:

1-2 hours

Tab:

$105

Talent:

***

Tools:

Set of feeler gauges, 13mm wrench, small flathead screwdriver, large screwdriver or crowbar, something to scribe metal with, car ramps, jack stand, floor jack, wheel chocks, safety glasses, newspaper, drip pan

Applicable Models:

Porsche 914 (1970-76)

Parts Required:

Valve cover gaskets (if needed), valve adjusting screws (if needed), gasket sealer

Performance Gain:

Properly adjusted valves will help your 914 engine run just right

Complementary Modification:

Replace your valve cover gaskets and your valve adjusting screws
 

One of the most common maintenance procedures to perform on a 914 is a routine valve adjustment.  The 914 valve train design is based on a set of push rods that are guided off a timing cam via a series of lifters that ride the cam.  The push rods activate a set of rockers that open and close the valves.  Between these rockers and the valves are valve adjusting screws.   These screws must be adjusted so that there is a specific clearance between the valve and the screw.  Too tight a clearance, and the valves will open too far, or not fully close.  Too loose a clearance, and the valves will not open far enough.

The Porsche factory manuals recommend that the valves be adjusted every 3000 miles.  Depending on how well your car is running, and how much wear and tear you put on it, this number can decrease or increase.  Some people find that their clearances are significantly off after only a thousand miles.  If this happens, then there might be something that is seriously wrong with the car; you should possibly investigate further.   The car displayed in our Pelican Technical Article, "Rendezvous with a Dropped Valve Seat" had a bizarre clearance problem with one of the valves one week prior to the destruction of its engine.

The process described in this Pelican Technical Article will show you how to adjust your valves real quick and easy.  The first time that you do the adjustment, you will have to set a few things up for future adjustments.   However, after the first time, it should be easy to adjust them in a little over and hour.  The process is based on the fact that with a little know-how, you don't need to keep looking in the engine compartment every time you rotate the engine.  In fact, you don't even need to open the engine lid for the adjustment process after the first time.

Ok, here's what you will need to do this job:

  • Set of feeler gauges
  • 13mm wrench
  • Small screwdriver
  • New valve cover gaskets (if needed)
  • New valve adjusting screws (if needed)
  • Large screwdriver or crowbar
  • Something to scribe metal with
  • Car Ramps
  • Jack stand

The first thing that you need to do is drive your car up on a set of car ramps.  It is important that you use the ramps because one wheel of the car must be elevated, yet cannot be allowed to turn.   A 914 on a set of car ramps is shown in Figure 1.  Be careful not to over-run the ramps.  If you do, hit the brake hard, and then let the car slowly fall down the other side.  If your car is at a standard HEIGHT, then you should be able to pull the ramps out from underneath.  If not, then use a floor jack to elevate the car, and start over.

After the car is on the ramps, elevate one wheel as shown in Figure 2.   Lift the car up high enough so that you can pull out the ramp.  Make sure that the parking brake is on and the front wheels are chocked.  Place a jack stand underneath the car on the side that you jacked up.  One of my favorite places to support the car is under the engine mount bar.  Some other people don't really like this approach, but it supports the car quite nicely.  You can also place the jack stand underneath the jack point 'triangle' near the rear of the rocker panels.  Figure 3shows the car with one wheel on a ramp, and the other one on a jack stand.  Once you have the car up on the stand and ramp, take it and give it a big shove to make sure that it's stable.  You would hopefully want the car to fall during this 'test stage' rather than when you are underneath it.

This setup allows you to turn the engine by simply turning the road wheel.  Whatever you have heard in the past from other people, do not turn the engine using the impeller fan.  It's just not worth breaking a fan blade when there is a much better approach.  With one wheel free to spin, and the other wheel firmly planted on the ramp, you can use the transmission to drive the motor.  One wheel has to be kept stationary, otherwise the differential will not let you turn the wheel.

Once you have set the car up in the air, you need to find top dead center (TDC) for cylinder #1.  You need to find this in order to properly adjust the valves.  The cam shaft that controls the valves rotates 1 turn for every 2 turns that the engine crankshaft rotates.  In this manner, the crankshaft position for TDC on cylinder #1 is the same as it is for cylinder #3.  Likewise, crankshaft position for TDC on cylinder #2 is the same as it is for #4.  Because of this, you only need to know when the crankshaft is at TDC for #1 and #3, and when it is rotated 180', for #2 and #4.  To make life simple, you can mark the flywheel to tell you when you reach these points.

There are a few ways of doing this.  First, open your engine compartment and remove your distributor cap that is held on with two little clamps on both sides.  Figure 4shows the distributor, cap, and one clamp on the left side.  After the cap is removed, you can see the rotor.  Now, take off the parking brake (if currently on), and put car in fifth gear.  Rotate the wheel that is elevated above the ground until the rotor points to the small notch in the distributor housing.  This small notch is shown in Figure 5, and when the rotor is pointing there, the car is approximately at top dead center (TDC).  If you rotate the driver side road wheel counter-clockwise, as if the car were moving forward, the distributor rotor will move in the opposite direction (clockwise).

After you have found the approximate top dead center (TDC), then remove the small plastic inspection cap on top of the fan housing.  This cap is shown in Figure 6.  Looking inside the hole will show the impeller fan and a notch, as shown in Figure 7.  On most cars, there will be a paint mark at TDC, as well as a timing mark elsewhere on the fan.  Do not confuse these two marks, as it will lead to more confusion later on.  Additionally, on the impeller there is a notch that also indicates TDC for cylinder #1.  Rotate the wheel of the car until this TDC notch aligns with a small V-notch in the fan housing.  This alignment is shown in Figure 8.  When the impeller notch is aligned with the V-notch, and the rotor is pointing at the notch in the distributor housing, the car is at TDC for cylinder #1.

It has been rumored that some impeller fans do not have either the painted mark or the notch.  The paint mark often rusts off, and is very often missing.  The other mark/notch may be missing if a replacement impeller fan was used at one time.  There is an alternative method for finding TDC.  Underneath the car, there is a small opening on the top of the transmission.  The flywheel is marked with a notch that represents TDC.  This mark should be visible through the top of the transmission when the car is at TDC.  Figure 9shows approximately where you need to look underneath the car to see the TDC mark.  Note that the mark is not visible without a small inspection mirror.  Figure 10shows the mark reflected in an inspection mirror.  If you think that this is hard to see, just try taking a picture of it!  The good news is that you don't really have to see the mark.  You can reach up and feel the notch with your finger.  When the notch is centered in the small opening at the top of the transmission, the car is at TDC for either cylinder 1 or 3.  It is also very easy to rotate the wheel when you're already underneath the car.

After you have located TDC through one method or another, you need to mark the bottom of the flywheel.  Underneath the transmission, on its bottom, there is a small gap that allows you to see the flywheel.  When the engine is located at TDC, you need to scribe a mark on the bottom of the flywheel.  You mark the flywheel so that you won't have to go through the process of finding TDC again.    Instead you simply rotate the engine until your mark appears.  This mark will be located at 180' from the notch on the flywheel.  This way you know (while your underneath the car) if the car is at TDC for either cylinders #1 or #3.  A simple mark is shown in Figure 11.

Illustrating what was talked about previously, if you rotate the driver side road wheel clockwise (as if the car is going backwards) the flywheel will turn and you will see a large notch in the flywheel from underneath the car.  When this notch is centered, the car is in TDC for piston #2 or #4.  This is shown in Figure 12.

After you have found and marked the flywheel, leave the car alone for several hours.  The car needs to be completely cold in order to properly adjust the valves.  Failure to do so will result in valves that are off when the car warms up.  You may want to plan in advance by driving the car up the ramps the night before you want to do the adjustment.

After the car is completely cold, begin the actual adjustment process by removing the valve covers.  Using a screw driver or a small crowbar, pry off the spring clip that holds the cover onto the head as shown in Figure 13.  A small amount of oil may drip out so be ready with some newspaper, or a drip pan to cover the heat exchangers.  Remove both covers from each side.  A typical 914 valve cover and gasket is shown in Figure 14.

With the valve covers removed, the head and rockers should be exposed as shown in Figure 15.   Now, make sure that the engine is pointing at Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder #1.  This will be when the distributor rotor is pointing to the notch in the housing, and the mark you made on the flywheel is clearly visible from the bottom of the transmission, underneath the car.  A way to double check is to see if there is some clearance in the valves for cylinder #1.  Check this by seeing if the rockers will move slightly when rotated.  At this point, it is time to adjust cylinder #1.   Looking at Figure 16, determine which cylinder is #1.  You may also look at the sheet metal in the engine compartment, which is marked with each piston number.   This is shown in Figure 17

Figure 18 shows both the exhaust and intake valves for piston #1.  It is a wise idea to check the clearances on the valves before you loosen them up.  Using a feeler gauge, as shown in Figure 19, measure the distance between the adjusting screw and the valve underneath.  It's probably a wise idea to record the initial clearances somewhere so that you can possibly predict or prevent a problem with your engine in the future.  After you measure the initial clearance, then loosen up the retaining nut on the adjusting screw with a 13mm wrench as shown in Figure 20.  At this time you might want to inspect your adjustment screws for pitting.  You should replace them only with factory original ones; aftermarket ones are sometimes too hard, resulting in wear on your valves.  It's easier to replace the screws than it is to replace the valves.   The screws come in two sizes, 8mm and 10mm depending upon your car.  Pelican Parts can provide you with a set of replacement screws for your car. [gratuitous plug]

Now, set the clearance for the valve.  Tighten down the screw on the feeler gauge until you can't pull out the gauge.  Then loosen slightly until you can slightly move the feeler gauge in-between the screw and the valve.  Then tighten the retaining nut (Figure 21), and remeasure the clearance.  Sometimes tightening the retaining nut will cause the clearance to change so always remeasure.  Adjust and set the clearances for both the intake and exhaust valves for cylinder #1.  The factory recommended clearances are:

Engine Model Intake Exhaust
914-4 1.7L 0.15mm / 0.006 in. 0.15mm / 0.006
914-4 1.8L 0.15mm / 0.006 in. 0.15mm / 0.006
914-4 2.0L 0.15mm / 0.006 in. 0.20mm / 0.008 in.

Now, you need to move on to cylinder #2.   Lying on your back looking up at the transmission gap, rotate the driver side road wheel of the car clockwise with your hand (as if the car was going backwards) until you can see the large notch in the flywheel as shown previously in Figure 12.  You can check to make sure that the car is at TDC for #2 by checking the distributor rotor position.  It should have rotated exactly 90' counter-clockwise.   Adjust and recheck the clearances for the intake and exhaust valves for cylinder #2.

Now, rotate the driver side road wheel clockwise again so that your 'homemade' mark on the bottom of the flywheel appears again.  The distributor rotor should now be 180' from TDC for cylinder #1 (rotor should be pointing at 6 o'clock).   Adjust the valves for cylinder #3.

Rotate the driver side road wheel clockwise once more until the large notch in the flywheel appears.  Now adjust the valves for cylinder #4.  Rotate the wheel once more, and you should be back at TDC for cylinder #1.

The whole process should go quite smoothly after you make the marks on the bottom of the flywheel.  You only need to check the rotor position if you are unsure of yourself.  After a few tries, you will most likely find that the method of turning the wheel while looking for the marks on the flywheel really speeds things up quite a bit.  To perform the entire adjustment, you never even need to look into the engine compartment, except to put the rotor at TDC for piston #1.

After you have adjusted all the valves, rotate the engine through all the cylinders and check the clearances again.  If you are finding that many, if not all of the valves are really far off on your first pass, then you might be making a mistake.   Go back and check to make sure that the distributor rotor is pointing in the correct direction, and that you are adjusting the correct cylinder.  Remember that the rotor and the cylinders are related in the following manner:

Cylinder #1 Driver-side Rear Rotor at 12 o'clock
Cylinder #2 Driver-side Front Rotor at 9 o'clock
Cylinder #3 Passenger Side Rear Rotor at 6 o'clock
Cylinder #4 Passenger Side Front Rotor at 3 o'clock

When you are finished adjusting the valves, replace the covers using new valve gaskets (Figure 22).  Apply a little sealant to the inside of the cover - these seem to leak quite a bit.  Make sure that your valve cover is firmly seated.  Very often it will look like it is firmly seated when it's not.  This will cause a major oil leak onto your heat exchangers.  Watch under the car after you put the covers back on to make sure that it's not leaking.

Well, that's about it. This has been one of the most requested technical articles for the 914.  If you enjoyed this article, and would like to make sure that this site stays up, and articles like this one continue to be written, then please make the effort to support Pelican Parts by ordering all your parts through us.  You will find that our prices are very reasonable, and our customer service strives to be the best.  If you have any questions or comments about this helpful tip, please drop us a line.


James Thorusen has the following to add in addition to the article above:

Gentlemen:

I have just gotten around to reading your technical article on valve adjustment. While the article is very well presented and the web page construction is beyond criticisim, I must point out that you are perpetuating a technique that I refer to as "the hard way". There is a much simpler and quicker way to adjust valves, which does not require removing the distributor cap and constantly climbing out from under the car to observe the rotor position, nor does it require making special marks on the flywheel.

I have been asked for this procedure enough times that I have formatted it into a file which I simply drop into an E-mail message when requested. Although I arrived at this procedure independently, it has since been pointed out to me that it is essentially the same as the procedure described on page 138 of Tom Wilson's book on VW engine rebuilding. The technique is reproduced below.

First, general rules:

Be sure that you use the correct clearance values for your engine: .006 INTAKE, .008 EXHAUST (for 2.0 litre) ( .006 BOTH INTAKE/EXHAUST for 1.7 and 1.8 litre)**

Don't mix them up! As a general rule of thumb, exhaust valves run hotter than intake valves, therefore they lengthen more due to expansion, therefore the larger clearance specification will be for the exhaust valve. I'm sure that someone can site an example of it being the other way around, and of course there are engines (including the 914 1.7 and 1.8 litres) that have identical clearances for both, but as I said, it's a rule of thumb.

If you set a valve .001" looser than spec, it might be a bit noisier, but you will not harm anything. Setting an exhaust valve .002" too tight will risk burning it... not a good idea, so to reiterate: .006" INTAKE .008" EXHAUST (for 2.0 litre) ( .006 BOTH INTAKE/EXHAUST for 1.7 and 1.8 litre).

Now, if you exert sufficient force on a feeler gauge, for anything but big narly racing engines you can actually open the valve with the gauge, as you have considerable mechanical advantage owing to the curved shape of the end of the rockers. A correctly adjusted valve will put a slight amount of drag on the feeler gauge as it is moved back and forth. If the gauge slips in with no resistance at all, the valve is too loose.

If you have to strain, and the feeler gauge feels like it wants to sproing into an inchworm shape instead of going in, the valve is too tight. There should be just a little bit of drag on the gauge; enough so that you can detect a friction effect, even with oil present.

Once you have this feel in mind, stick in the appropriate gauge and measure the clearance... as in fortran, you have three choices: < > or =.

Once you have determined which way you need to go, loosen the lock nut, turn the screw a bit in the correct direction, and re-tighten the lock nut. Note that when you tighten the locknut, the adjusting screw sets back into the rocker arm, commonly by as much as .001", so allow for this when tightening, and let the adjusting screw turn SLIGHTLY clockwise with the lock-nut. Repeat the adjustment as necessary until the clearance is correct; i.e. slight drag on the feeler gauge with ALL TOOLS OFF THE VALVE TRAIN! There should never be any tool on the rocker assembly, either screwdriver or wrench, while actually measuring the clearance. You will introduce side loads or other moments that will prevent an accurate measurement.

Now for the actual adjustment procedure. To understand it, however, a bit of history and theory first.

I should like to point out that the 914-4 engine is a derivitive of the good old VW engine designed by Dr. Porsche way back when. As the "people's car" everything, including the engine, was designed for cheap mass production. As part of this philosophy, Dr. Porsche reasoned (I take license here) something like this: "Why should I design a typical 4-cylinder engine camshaft with 8 lobes, when I can get by with half that number?" Due to the flat-four layout, each cam lobe does double duty, actuating a valve first on one side of the engine, and then on the other.

This then gives rise to a simplified adjustment procedure, which I have printed up and glued into my Haynes manual to replace the rather cumbersome procedure in the book.

It works perfectly. I quote verbatim:

1. Jack up car and place on stands; block one rear road wheel to prevent it's turning, engage 5thgear, handbrake off.

2. Valve clearances are adjusted with the engine COLD.

Clearances are INTAKE = .006" EXHAUST = 008". ('74 model year, 2.0 litre engine) Remove valve covers, clean up spilled oil, and check gaskets; renew if necessary.

3. Using the unblocked roadwheel as a handwheel, rotate the engine until the rockers are rocking in accordance with the first entry in the table below. Adjust the clearances of the corresponding valves as shown in the table. Continue rotating engine and adjusting valves until all have been done. Re-install valve covers.

4. Valve adjustment table: # denotes cylinder number;

Ex = Exhaust valve; In = Intake valve.

Turn until Rocking: Adjust:
#2 Ex & #3 In #4 Ex & #1 In
#1 Ex & #2 In #3 Ex & #4 In
#4 Ex & #1 In #2 Ex & #3 In
#3 Ex & #4 In #1 Ex & #2 In

It follows logically that a valve opposite one that is open is on the back of the same cam lobe, the perfect place for adjustment. It is only necessary to be certain of which valves actually share the same cam lobe, which can be a little tricky owing to the offset nature of the cylinder layout. However, I believe that I have done this, and that further, I have worked it out so that, if the valves are adjusted in the order given in the table, a minimum amount of engine rotation will be necessary to complete the task.

One other helpful hint: Unless you are VERY familiar with the engine layout, clean two spots on the bottom of each head next to the pair of valves associated with each cylinder and mark the cylinder number in the cleaned spots with magic marker so that it can be seen from under the car. This will help you figure out which cylinder is which while you are upside down under the car, and is an invaluable aid in using the table. The cylinder layout can be taken from fig. 3.3 on page 63 of the Haynes book, or, if the engine is clean enough, can be taken from stamped numbers in the engine sheetmetal.

Jim T.
entropy@hughes.net

**Corrected 9/17/09, Pelican Staff

Figure 1

Car on Lift Ramps

Figure 2

Jacking the Car Up

Figure 3

914 Suspended With One Wheel Constrained

Figure 4

Distributor and Cap

Figure 5

Rotor Pointing at TDC

Figure 6

Plastic Timing Hole Cover

Figure 7

Painted TDC Mark

Figure 8

TDC Mark on Fan Housing

Figure 9

Underside of Transmission Where TDC is Seen

Figure 10

Looking at TDC Mark on Top of Transmission

Figure 11

'Homemade' Mark on Flywheel for TDC

Figure 12

Flywheel Marking at Bottom of Transmission

Figure 13

Removing Valve Cover

Figure 14

914 Valve Cover

Figure 15

914 Head with Valve Cover Removed

Figure 16

Cylinder Head Numbering

Figure 17

Engine Sheet Metal Marking for Cylinder #2

Figure 18

Exhaust and Intake Valves

Figure 19

Measuring Valve Clearance

Figure 20

Loosening Retaining Nut

Figure 21

Tightening Retaining Nut

Figure 22

914 Valve Gasket Covers

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Comments and Suggestions:
drbill Comments: Okay, I found the notch on the flywheel. It's not centered in the top opening when the impeller notch/groove and rotor are perfectly aligned. It is off some, maybe 10 deg, but when it is centered, the impeller fan and rotor are off. Which do I go by?
May 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would think they should be aligned. If the engine timing is correct, the fan would be my choice. However, I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. I don't want to steer you the wrong direction on something as important as engine timing.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
drbill Comments: Thanks for the article. I found #1 TDC using the notch in the distributor and the notch/groove in the impeller fan. However, just to be sure by checking the flywheel, I noticed there is no notch at the top. I can actually see the opening at the top on the transmission from the back of the engine bay. So, do I need to be concerned about that notch not being there? Should I just go ahead and scribe a mark on the bottom of the flywheel?
Thanks!!
May 5, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would run it around again and check for the notch. It is possible, the notch on the flywheel is 180° out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dave Comments: With reference to your description of the inspection port at the top of the transmissionI ran into an interesting situation recently that may be of use to others with missing timing marks needing to resort to the inspection mirror technique you offer:

Drop the rear of the transmission as in your article on trans. mount replacement. In my case the upper retaining clips for the rear tin dislodged and the inspection port became visible from the engine bay. The time spent doing the job this way also allows inspection of the transmission mounts I was replacing mine earlier that day anyway.
July 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
HomeAutom8 Comments: Great article. Thank you! I am a novice and figured out that you don't need the mirror to get to the top of the transmission mark. Simply reach over the rubber trim in the center of the rear of the engine. Lightly touch the fly wheel with your finger and rotate the tire with your other hand. When you feel the indentation of the mark you are at TDC. Once found, I found the mark my 1.7 was a circle, not a line under the cap on the fan. Note, the notched line or circle is on the engine side V, not the front of the car V. I used a small bruch and repainted the TDC mark on the fan.
June 30, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback and additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Burke Comments: Wow! Thanks so much for this article; very useful to supplement my years of VW experience as I learn my new 914. But for beginners, I'd suggest you don't prop up one wheel to crank the engine or worry about the marks for TDC. Just pop the distributor cap off and watch the rotor while you crank the engine with a wrench on the alternator bolt. Very safe and easy, and you needn't get exactly on TDC for the cylinder you want because the valves will be closed even if you're off a few degrees - TDC is between the compression & power stroke, both of which require both valves closed.
February 12, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Dave/Dave's Import Repair Comments: alternative method for holding one wheel from moving--what we do is clamp a vise grip to the drive axle on one side and rotate it to a stop. Then turn the other wheel.
January 5, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
cosmic farmer Comments: why does my lifter clearance keep changing ? i set them & double check ,after i start the motor they are very noisey ,irecheck and they are loose,do you think the base of my lifters are worn,and causes improper clearances ?this is driving me nuts.
November 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may be adjusting them in the wrong position. That or the rocker arm shaft is worn. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RichW Comments: One other point, I don't believe was mentioned -
as I recall, valve adjustment on the 1.7 and 1.8
need only be done every 6,000 miles, whereas on
the 2.0 the requirement is every 3,000 - please confirm?
Thanks!
October 16, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I thought it was 12,000.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Radmacdaddy Comments: excellent hydraulic article Wayne! Thanks
October 10, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Radmacdaddy Comments: The last question needs to be answered. You don't discuss hydraulic lifters!!! I'm stuck. Tom wilsons book says two full turns after screw is seated on the valve. Any thoughts anyone?
October 9, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have any experience with adjusting hydraulic lifters on the Type IV engine, but this page here seems to have it covered pretty well: http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html . - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Craig Comments: Does this procedure apply to the porsche 912e, it has the VW type 4 2.0 L engine.
January 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes it does 100%! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Craig Comments: This is great information, I am just confused with which one is the intake valve and which one is the exhaust. New Owner
January 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: For the purpose of adjustment, it doesn't matter as both intake and exhaust are closed at TDC. But for reference, the intake valves are the two that are closest to the center of the cylinder head (exhaust valves are on the outside). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
brian Comments: My valve cover clamps seems to be way to tight, its almost impossible to get them on and off the valve covers. Both valve covers seem to be in good shape, no warping. Any Ideas?
June 6, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I had this problem a long time ago with my 4-cylinder. Tight is better than loose, as you don't want them leaking. I always used a big screwdriver to pry the metal bar off when needed. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jason Comments: Can Valves be replaced with out removing the engine?
February 8, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
TOC Comments: I am attempting to convert my 914/4 fuel injected 2.0 to carbs, buy using a set of type 4 duel port heads. The heads seem to fit ok; the combustion chamber is the same. What problems might I encounter, if any? The heads are off a 1974 1.7 bus.
November 8, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, other than you needing to use a low-pressure fuel pump and regulator, I can't think of much off the top of my head? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
stephenaki Comments: An observation and question; 1st, since the car must be cold and you have a jack and stand, why not jack it up and lower it onto the top of the car ramps? Then you don't have to wait for it to cool down. Just a thought.

Next, my car was converted from a 1.7 to a 2.0 to include the crank and rods. The heads were just machined but they are not 2.0 heads. What adjustment should I use, the 1.7 or 2.0 measurements?
October 10, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, on this combination motor, I would probably split the difference between the two numbers. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Kingpin Comments: Wayne;
Your article is correct. Jim T.'s below it is not. His article says .006 int. and .008 exh. for the 1.8.
Thanks for the posting from the Porsche manual. I take it the info is typical for both the 1.7 & 1.8 unless noted otherwise in parentheses? Ergo .006 for both valve types typical to both 1.7 & 1.8. Oh, also there is nothing to
identify the third page you posted as applying to the
2.0.
Thanks Wayne.
September 16, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Oh, I see, I will have my guys correct that then. Thanks! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Kingpin Comments: Then that makes the first article wrong Wayne. Let me verify:
The Porsche manual says .006 intake and .008 exhaust for the
1.8 and 2.0 engines and .006 for both intake and exhaust for
the 1.7 engine? If so there's an error being widely copied.
September 16, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's another article out on the net that has some wrong information in it. The article here is correct, as confirmed by the Porsche Factory Technical Spec book. I have scanned and posted the images here:

Cover of the book:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_valve_adjust/914-1.jpg

Here's the page for the 1.7L & 1.8L
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_valve_adjust/914-2.jpg

Here's the page for the 2.0L:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_valve_adjust/914-3.jpg

- Wayne at Pelican Parts
 
Kingpin Comments: Isn't it .006 for both on the 1.8 and not the 1.7?
September 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The article is correct, I just verified it with the Porsche factory spec book I have here. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
red Comments: but what if my car has hydraulic lifters? don't ask why, all you purists.
September 8, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have to shim the valve springs. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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