| I recently had the left turn signals quit working on our 914 track car, that is still licensed for the street and since I do drive it around now and then to test changes I figured ththe signals should work. Also the horn had been dead for a while so I needed to get it fixed too. To troubleshoot the signals I did the folowing:|
- replaced the bulbs in both sides with new matching, no luck.
- replaced the dash turn signal indicator lights, no luck.
- noted the parking lights (all) stayed on if the key was off and signal was to either side, as it should.
- replaced the flasher relay with a known good one, worth a try anyways, no luck.
- checked front and rear signal housings and grounds, all were good.
Seems the only thing left was the column switch, so I got ready to remove the switches. BUT, since this was mainly an autocross/race car I thought about eliminating the column switches completely. I KNOW most of you have had the wipers come on accidentally on the track and it can be embarassing can't it???
I read the diagrams in the Haynes manual and on the Pelican Parts site for several days and figured I could use three toggle switches to do repacement for the wipers, headlight flasher and the turn signals. I bought the following switches:
- SPST (on), for the headlight flasher.
- SPDT (on) off (on), for the turn signal switch.
- SPDT on off on, for the wiper switch.
Note: The (on) means the switch is MONENTARY or you have to hold it.
Here are the steps to complete the job, some may be done in another order, but this worked for me.
- Remove the batt. ground connection.
- Remove the knee gaurd as per chapter 10 (so I wouldn't damage it only).
- Remove the steering wheel (if you have a push-to-talk switch, be careful).
- Remove the steering column switches as per chapter 7.
NOTE: When you unplug the connectors, try not to move them around so the will look like the diagram below.
- Make three sets of connector wires, one with two wires and two with three wires.
NOTE: Most people (like me) do not have the multi colored wire like the factory, so use different colored wires on the lugs on each switch to keep them separate. The male connectors are pretty small and I had to trim the lugs to fit the female connectors and they should be snug.
- Refer to the diagram below and connect one new switch at a time and test it by connecting the batt ground then trying the switch. If there is a problem or a fuse blows, recheck the connectors and insure the wire colors for your car match what I have listed. The colors are for our 1973 and 1974 2.0l models and as some of you know, sometimes strange parts can be found in our 914s due to left over parts after a year run, etc.
- If all switches test okay you can install them.
- I removed the lighter to gain the existing hole and drilled additional holes as needed just to the right of the column.
- Install each switch through from the back of the dash panel and tighten snugly while holding the back so it doesn't turn. If you are worried about the extra holes, they can be covered over if you revert to original with dash material. My dash had a thin plate in the center part covering four holes of various sizes?
- Tape the connector assembly securely and push/tie wrap it up under the dash so you will not get your clutch foot caught in it.
- Reassemble the steering column minus the original switches.
- Reinstall the knee pad if removed.
Oh yea, I mentioned the horn didn't work when I originally started this project, well I ran a wire from the connector noted below to the MOMO horn buttom and guess what, the horn works. Great for time trials when you come up behind someone and give them a honk!!!
- TURN SIGNAL: BK/WH/GR To Center Lug, BK/GR To side lug, BK/WH To side lug.
- HEADLIGHT FLASHER: BR To one lug and YW/RD to other, it doesn't matter.
- HORN: Connect a wire from BR/WH to horn button
(the three other connections: WH/RD, WH, WH/BK can be left un hooked)
(on wiper side connector)
WIPER: RD/BK To center lug, BK/PU To side lug, BK/BL To side lug.
(the BR/BK connection is not used)