| [Click on Photo] 
Typical Broken Ignition Switch
| | Electrical starting problems often occur with many 914s after 25 years of starting the car. While there are often many sources to the problems of starting, one of the most common is the failure of the electrical starter switch within the steering column. This switch is connected to the tumbler and is responsible for powering the relay that drives the starter solenoid. After many years of turning the key, this electrical switch often fails. The first step in repairing this switch is to isolate the problem, and confirm that it is indeed the switch. Sometimes, this is not always an easy task. The primary symptom of a faulty and broken ignition switch is that the car's electrical system operates when you turn the key, but the car will not start. Occasionally, you get variations on this problem. For instance, the car may start, but the headlamps flick on and off as you wiggle the key. Sometimes the car won't start until you apply a great amount of force to the key. Note that continuing to do this will most likely damage the lock cylinder and/or your key. After you've determined that you have a problem starting the car, you should check to make sure that your starter is functioning well. Wire a lead from the positive terminal of the battery. With the car in neutral, or on stands, connect the wire to the starter solenoid. The starter should turn over. Please make sure that you have the car in neutral, or you will lurch the car forward, and possibly injure yourself. |
Figure 1: Seat Belt Relay and Buzzer | | Next, check the large starter relay that is located underneath the passenger seat. The relay and buzzer are shown in Figure 1. The relay is the bigger box of the two, the smaller one is the very annoying buzzer. This relay is found on the later cars, and is part of the seat belt fastening system. If the wires to this relay are damaged, or they are disconnected, then the car will not start. This is part of the seat belt safety system that someone decided would be an intelligent idea. The idea was to have pressure sensors that were located in the seats. If there was someone sitting in the seat without their seat belt fastened, then the car would not start. This system was also connected to the annoying buzzer which went off when you opened the door. The relay and the buzzer sit underneath the passenger seat, in an area that is often filled with water, especially if the roof leaks. This water can cause the relay and its connections to corrode, resulting in a car that will not start. The solution is to bypass the seat belt relay. To do this, unplug the seats and the belts from the harness. Then take the two large yellow wires going into the relay and wire them together. This will bypass the entire system, and you will be able to start the car regardless of the condition of the seat belts. |
Figure 2: Brand New Electrical Switch
Figure 3: Steering Wheel Removed
Figure 4: 914 Outside mirror
Figure 5: Screws that Secure the Knee Panel
Figure 6: Knee Panel Removed
Figure 7: Electrical Connections to the Switches and Housing Screw
Figure 8: Removing the Wiper Switch Screws
Figure 9: Removing Turn signal and Wiper Switch
Figure 10: Screws That Secure Switch Housing
Figure 11: Pulling Out Ignition Cylinder
Figure 12: Small Set Screw That Holds Electrical Switch
Figure 13: Typical Broken Electrical Ignition Switch and Set Screw
Figure 14: View of Electrical Switch and Ignition Switch Assembly
| | Once you have checked both the starter and the relay, chances are that the problem lies with the electrical starter switch. A brand new switch is shown in Figure 2. This plastic assembly often cracks and malfunctions with age and use. To begin the replacement process, you need to remove the steering wheel. Remove the wheel according to the instructions in the Pelican Technical Article, "Steering Wheel Removal." After the wheel is removed, the steering column should resemble Figure 3. The next step is to remove the knee pad from underneath the dash board. This is held on with screws both underneath the dash, and on the sides. The screws on the side of the knee pad are normally hidden by plastic covers that need to be removed before you can remove the retaining screws. The left side retaining screw is shown in Figure 4. After both side screws are removed, (you may need some needle nose pliers to get them out of their holes) remove the five screws that mount the bottom of the knee pad to the dashboard. One of these screws is shown in Figure 5. Once the knee pad is removed, you will be able to access the dashboard from underneath as shown in Figure 6. At this time, unplug the wiper and turn signal switch from the wiring harness. Also, disconnect the hex head bolt that holds in the steering column housing. These two plugs and the bolt are shown in Figure 7. Now, remove the four screws that hold in the turn signal and wiper switch assembly. Make sure you put these in a safe place, as they have a habit of falling out, and are difficult to replace. The four screws that you need to remove are shown in Figure 8. Once the screws are removed, you can carefully pull the entire assembly out as shown in Figure 9. Be careful not to damage the switch when it is out; it will be hanging by the rubber hoses that control the window washer. Now, remove the two screws that hold in the small housing piece that constrains the ignition switch. These two screws are shown in Figure 10. Be careful of the small spring that can fall out when you remove the housing. This spring fits into a small cavity on the ignition switch housing, and is part of the steering wheel lock. Once you have the small housing cover off, you can pull the entire steering wheel housing out on the shaft. While this is not necessary, it allows for easier access to the rear of the electrical ignition switch. Now, unplug the rear, electrical portion of the ignition switch. At this point, you should be able to insert your key, twist, and pull out the entire assembly, as shown in Figure 11. Now move to a work bench and remove the set screw from the ignition housing shown in Figure 12. Once this set screw is removed, the white electrical ignition switch should slide right out. In most cases, it will be cracked, as shown in Figure 13. If yours is cracked, then this is most certainly the cause of your starting problem. Insert the new switch and tighten down the set screw, as shown in Figure 14. Insert the new switch in place of the old. Tighten down the small set screw. Replace the entire assembly into the steering column. Plug in the wire harness connector to the rear of the switch. Reattach the small housing that holds the ignition switch in place. Don't forget the spring that controls the steering wheel lock. You can now check the switch by turning on the ignition. Now reinstall the wiper / turn signal switch assembly without tightening the four screws too much. Push the entire steering column housing back in and reinstall the bolt that secures it into place. Now reinstall the knee pad, checking to make sure you didn't forget anything. You may want to clean your horn contacts at this time. Reinstall the steering wheel, and your finished. Well, that's all there is to it. If you have all the info, (we give it to you here) the replacement process is actually quite easy. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to email them to us. Please remember that your continued purchases and support of Pelican Parts has a direct impact on the support and expansion of this website. Please give us your business if you like what you see here, and would like it to continue into the future. Thanks, Wayne.
George Lester makes the following note: I printed out the article on ignition switch replacement for the 914 , It sure was a great help when I finally did the job, it was like you said if changing a tire is a one this was a three..On my car the lock was bad and I changed the switch while I had it apart. You might add to the article on switch changing that to get the tumbler out take a punch and push in the hole just above where the steering lock sticks out and the tumbler can be pulled out.. Thanks for your help, you have a great web site..George And Bruce Patterson makes another interesting point: What I've found out since there was only 4100 76's made they're a little different than the rest. To retract the metal steering surround that holds the ignition switch (there is no screws holding it) you insert the key like you are going to remove the tumbler,turning the key unlocks the tab thats holding it on the steering shaft,letting you pull the whole piece off, exposing the switch and the set screw for easy removal and replacement.If you dont turn the key there's no way that assembly will come off the shaft.You may want to include this info on to the tech article. Thanks Bruce Patterson |
