| As our 914’s age, leaking gas tanks are becoming increasingly common. These leaks can develop from the inside, or can be caused by rust and abrasion on the outside, as was the case with my car. Fortunately removing and repairing the tank is an easy task. (This is the procedure used on my 1974 2.0. There may be slight differences between various years and models, but the procedure is essentially the same). Begin by disconnecting any vapor lines which run out from the expansion chamber, which sits on top of the tank. Next, remove the expansion chamber itself by taking out the 8mm bolts which surround the fuel tank filler on your car. There is also a 10mm bolt holding the expansion chamber on. Simply lift the expansion chamber from the top of the tank, and set it aside. You will then see the connector for the fuel tank sender, which you can simply unplug. Next remove the screw which holds the gas tank-retaining strap together. Spread the restraining straps out to the side so that you can lift the gas tank out. Before beginning the process, you should run the tank down as low as you can. You don’t needneed to take it too low (I have removed it with as much as a quarter tank left), but the less gas there is in it, the easier it will be to lift. You can then begin lifting the tank out. First, lift the tank just enough to remove each of the rubber blocks on the sides of the tank. These are there to hold the tank in place and isolate it from excessive vibration. Once the blocks are removed, lift the passenger’s side of the gas tank up as high as you can. The 2 fuel lines run out of the bottom. The original lines are fairly short, and may be held on by non-reusable clips. Therefore, simply cut the lines (it’s a good idea to use new ones anyway), and lift the tank out, keeping it lifted to prevent excess fuel from leaking from the tank. When the tank is out, it is easy to simply pour, from the inlet and outlet lines, the fuel into and approved gas storage container. Fortunately, the 914 tank is very simple, and easy to strip down. The fuel level sender simply unbolts from the top. The screen inside the tank will come out when you unbolt the 2 short metal lines, which run out from the bottom of the tank. Once these 3 items are removed, the tank is ready for treatment, and you will not need to worry about clogging any internal lines, filter screens, etc. There several gas tank treatments on the market, but I recommend the POR-15 treatment (1-800-45-por15). POR-15 sells a complete kit, which includes a heavy duty cleaner, a metal etcher and the actual sealer, along with exact instructions; essentially, the tank should first be flushed out with water. Then, firmly tapeall openings except for the top and mix in one quart of the cleaner with one quart of hot water. Tape up the top and slosh the solution around. It should sit in the tank for 24 hours, being shaken occasionally tocoat the entire interior. If the tank is really dirty, the process can be repeated, but probably will not be necessary. Next, rinse the tank out and reseal all the openings, pour the itching chemical in, and reseal all the openings. This needs to be agitated occasionally, for between ½ hour and 24 hours. I let mine soak for about 2 hours. Next the tank should be rinsed again with water, and left to dry. I used a hair dryer to help speed the process. The tank opening should then be retaped and the sealer poured in. Simply rotate the tank around until all areas have been coated, and drain the sealant. The sealer needs to drain for at least 24 hours before using the tank. I also treated the outside of the tank (the bottom half only) with POR-15 black paint. I then painted the entire trunk with Wurth matt black paint for a factory appearance. Once the tank is dry the inlet and outlet lines can be screwed back in, along with the sender unit. The fuel lines should be replaced with new line, abort 2 feet long. Using longer lines is nice because it allows you in the future to lift the tank up high enough to reach underneath and unscrew the hose clamps to detach the tank, instead of cutting the lines. Be careful however, not to use lines that are too long or they will get crimped when you put the tank in blocking fuel flow. You only want them long enough to give you access. Drop the tank in, connect the new lines, center the tank with the rubber blocks, reconnect the fuel sender, screw the expansion chamber back on (don’t forget the rubber gasket!), and reconnect any vapor lines. Pour only new gas in (you don't want any left over crap from your old tank in there), and you're ready to go. Make sure that you drop off the old gas at your recycling center. Most places that take used oil will also take old gas. NOTES: Some people recommend removing the front trunk lid. This would certainly give you more room, but it is not really necessary. Some people also recommend removing the steering rack cover underneath the car, but I don’t think this one is necessary either, as all of the work I have described is done from above the car. Finally,make sure you do this in an area free from sparks or other source of ignition, as you will be working with an open tank of gasoline. To be safe, it is also not a bad idea to disconnect the battery. | 
