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HomeTech Articles > Replacing and Adjusting the 914 Clutch - Page 2

Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing and Adjusting
the 914 Clutch

Page 2

Difficulty Level 6

Difficulty scale:
Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a 911 Motor is level ten

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Figure 15: Backup Lamp Switch

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Figure 16: Starter Cable and Bolts

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Figure 17: Starter Nut Inside Engine Compartment

     After you disconnect the ground strap, it's time to remove the starter.  Begin by unplugging the back up light switch that is located on the left side of the transmission.  The plug for this switch is shown in Figure 15.  Unplug the wires by first removing the rubber boot (if it's still there), and then using a pair of pliers to grab onto the bullet end connectors.  If you cannot reach the connectors, then simply pull on the wires.  Although this may cause them to become separated from the bullet connectors, it may be the only way to remove the wires from the switch.  If they do become disconnected, they can just simply be resoldered into the bullet connectors.

     After the switch is disconnected, remove the nut that holds the starter voltage cable.  This cable and the starter are shown in Figure 16.   Confirm that the battery is disconnected before doing this, as this can be the most dangerous part of the job.  A friend of mine welded his watch to his car when he forgot to disconnect the battery (I didn't actually see this happen, but it makes for an interesting story).  After you remove the cable, loosen and remove the nut on the left side of the starter.  This should be a 17mm nut.  The one on the right side is often a big point of confusion for 914 owners.  There is a bolt that mounts the starter on the right side.  However, there is also a nut on the other side of the engine case (in the engine compartment) which holds this bolt to the engine case.   The housing of the starter is cast in a way so that the bolt will not turn when flush and tight against the starter.  In other words, you can not put a wrench on and loosen the right-side starter bolt from underneath the car.  This bolt must be removed by loosening and removing the nut inside the engine compartment.   Consequently, many people miss this nut because it is almost impossible to see, and equally difficult to reach, especially if you own a 1.8L car.  Figure 17 attempts to show the nut through the injection system.  Depending upon your car, you may or may not be able to see it.   It is against the engine case on the left side.  There is another bolt that is symmetrical to this starter bolt on the opposite site.  This may help orient you in finding it.  Once you have found it, use a 17mm wrench (yes, on top of all that, it is a smaller nut than the other one used to fasten the starter) to loosen and remove the nut.  Be careful not to drop it, or you will have a difficult time retrieving it.   After you remove this nut, you should be able to lift off and remove the starter.

 

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Figure 18: Separating CV Joints

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Figure 19: CV Joints Disconnected

     At this point, move to the CV joints and loosen the remaining CV joint bolts.  They should be loose enough to slide around in their holes.  Do not remove the bolts, as they will not fall out unless appropriately coaxed.  After all the CV bolts are loose (may require you to rotate the wheel and apply the parking brake), you then separate them by carefully prying them apart with a small screwdriver.  Place the screwdriver on the separation nearest to the transmission, and tap around the outside of the CV joint until they begin to separate.  This process is shown in Figure 18.  The CV joints are positioned with a pretty tight toleranced dowel pin, so it may take quite a bit of coaxing to get them separated.  Don't use too much force, or you could damage the mating surfaces or the joints themselves.  Once you have them disconnected, as shown in Figure 19, make sure you place a bag over the ends of the axles, and the flanges on the transmission.   This is to protect both the joint from dirt and you from grease.  If you skip this step, you will regret it later when you have CV joint grease in your hair.
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Figure 20: Jack Stand Underneath Engine Case

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Figure 21: Transmission Supported on Jack
(not on shifter arm as it might appear in photo)

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Figure 22: Disconnected Transmission Mounts

     At this point in time, you should have nothing else extraneous attached to the transmission.  Perform a quick check to make sure that you didn't forget anything.  The next step is to place a jack stand underneath the engine case, as shown in Figure 20.  Make sure that the jack stand is close to the bottom of the case, because you don't want the engine to travel too much and flex your motor mounts.  Place some wood or another type of shim underneath the jack stand to achieve the proper HEIGHT.  

     After you have the jack stand in place, support the weight of the engine and tranny assembly with a large floor jack, as shown in Figure 21.  Jack up the assembly until the weight is just slightly removed off of the transmission mounts.  If your transmission mounts are worn or cracked, then the engine and tranny should lift a slight bit before beginning to lift the car.  If the car starts to move, then you have jacked up on the transmission too far.  Make sure that the weight of the engine and transmission are the only thing supported by the jack.  After the assembly is supported by the floor jack, then disconnect the bolts that attach the transmission mounts, as shown in Figure 22.  You will need to hold the bolts on top with a 19mm crescent wrench.  Be sure to place the bolts and washers in a safe place upon removal.

     After the transmission mounts are disconnected, lower the engine and tranny assembly so the weight of the two is supported by the jack stand.   At this point, the transmission should be at least a few inches below its standard mounting position in the rear of the car.  Now disconnect the remaining three bolts/nuts that attach the transmission to the engine case.  One nut is located inside the engine compartment, similar to the one holding in the starter.  This one, fortunately is easier to reach than the other one.  Don't worry about the transmission falling off - it won't.  After the three remaining nuts/bolts are removed, then place the floor jack back under the center of the transmission, and jack it up until it is supporting the weight of the transmission.  There will be a point where the jack is not lifting the engine, and the engine case is not supporting the weight of the transmission.  It may take a little trial and error to find this point.

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Figure 23: Transmission Pulled Away from Engine

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Figure 24: Removing First Flywheel Bolt

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Figure 25: Flywheel Locked, Removing Pressure Plate

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Figure 26: Prying Off Pressure Plate

     After the transmission is supported on the floor jack, pull the transmission and the jack rearward away from the engine, as shown in Figure 23.  The transmission should require a little bit of coaxing to be separated from the engine case.  Be careful not to accidentally let the transmission hang on the center driveshaft.  This will most likely damage the transmission.  Once the transmission is clear and the driveshaft is out of the clutch/flywheel, then lower the jack and pull the transmission away.

     After the transmission is safely stowed in another area, remove one bolt from the pressure plate.  You can do this without spinning the flywheel by following the method shown in Figure 24.  Simply place a breaker bar in-between the socket and a single stud on the engine case, and turn.  The breaker bar should prevent the pressure plate from turning.  Then, attach the flywheel lock as shown in Figure 25.  The flywheel lock is basically a piece of metal with two holes in it.  I usually use left over motor mount bar holders, but I couldn't find one for this article.  By attaching one end to the flywheel, and the other end to the case, you prevent the flywheel from turning.  Once you have the flywheel lock in place, loosen the remaining pressure plate screws.  If you are planning to reuse the pressure plate over again, be sure to loosen the screws uniformly.  It is not recommended that you reuse the pressure plate unless you have just recently installed it and are removing the clutch to repair something else.   After all the screws have been removed, you can then pry the pressure plate out from the flywheel using a screwdriver, as shown in Figure 26.  The disc should come out easily after the pressure plate is removed.  You may want to have a vacuum cleaner to vacuum up all of the clutch dust that may have accumulated over the years and subsequent wearing out of the clutch disc.  The older discs were made with asbestos lining, so be careful not to inhale too much of the stuff.

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Figure 27: Pressure Plate Removed

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Figure 28: Flywheel Locked, Removing Flywheel Bolts

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Figure 29: Flywheel Bolts Removed

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Figure 30: Flywheel Removed

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Figure 31: Removing Flywheel Seal

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Figure 32: Installing New Flywheel Seal

     After the area is all cleaned up, the flywheel should be visible as seen in Figure 27.  With this flywheel, the disc was hitting the top of the flywheel bolts.   Now, reattach the flywheel lock carefully, as you will be applying a great amount of force to remove the flywheel bolts.  Use a long breaker bar and eat your Wheaties before you try to remove the flywheel bolts.  The bolts are often torqued on there very tight and often require a tremendous amount of force to remove them from the flywheel (Figure 28).  When loosening them, check to see how much your engine flexes on it's engine mounts.  If it flexes quite a bit, then you need new engine mounts.  Be sure to use only good quality tools; you don't want the tools breaking on you and stripping the flywheel bolts.  From my own personal experience, drilling and grinding out flywheel bolts is a horrible way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

     Once you have the bolts removed (Figure 29), the flywheel should come off with repeated tugging from both sides.  This will expose the end of the crankshaft, and the crankshaft seal.  If there are any oil leaks around the seal, they will be apparent.  The entire area will be oil soaked or dirty.  If you press on the seal with your finger, and oil rushes out, then you need to replace the seal.   Seals may be damaged by old age, or they may even be melted by a slipping clutch heating up the flywheel.  Figure 30 shows a stream of oil leaking from this particular flywheel seal.

     To remove the flywheel seal, get a screw driver and a small plate (in this case, my flywheel lock), and gently pry out the seal.  It is important not to touch anything metal with the screwdriver; you don't want to scratch or damage any tight seal areas.  Prying out the seal as shown in Figure 31 basically avoids any damage to the case or the crank.  Make sure that you catch all of the end-play shims (all three of them) when you remove the flywheel seal (they will fall out).  Make sure that they don't get dirty.   You can replace the shims later on after you install the new seal, but I would recommend putting them in before you install the seal to minimize potential problems.   To install the new seal, simply place the seal up against the case and tap it in.   I would use a rubber hammer instead of a metal one, as this is less likely to cause accidental damage.  Tap evenly on all sides of the seal, and with a little coaxing, it should go right in, as shown in Figure 32.

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Comments and Suggestions:
rjames Comments: It would be helpful to post the measurements that show if a flywheel can be reused. I learned the measurements the hard way after paying to have a flywheel resurfaced and installing a new main seal that will need to be removed to check end-play when I get a new flywheel.
October 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. We will try to locate this information and add it to the article if we do. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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