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Project 911
Chapter 1: The Rust Free Chassis

Wayne R. Dempsey
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     Pelican Parts is pleased to announce a new series for the website that will follow a ground up restoration of an early 911.  We hope to cover the intricate details of all aspects of restoration including the replacement and upgrade of the brakes, suspension, and motor.  Keep checking the site for updates on the progress of this car.  We expect it to be completely finished about a year from now (August 2000).

     The car belongs to Michael Russell, a close friend of Pelican Parts.  It is a 1973 1/2 911T with a CIS 2.4 motor.  The chassis is one of the best, if not the best example of a rust-free Californian car that we have ever seen.  So, it is with much pleasure that we have begun a complete ground-up restoration on this car.  Michael purchased the chassis from someone who had started the ground up restoration, and had removed just about everything that you could possibly remove off the car, and still have it roll.  The car was then stripped to the bare metal, and painted the original color, silver, with original German Glasurit paint.

     Michael has decided that he will not restore the car completely to stock condition, but instead, upgrade it with many of the options that were available on the later cars, while maintaining the stock early 911 look.  Some of the planned upgrades are:

  • 3.0L or 3.2 Six Cylinder Motor
  • Sport Seats
  • Carrera or SC Brakes
  • Later model suspension
  • Carburetors or other engine modifications

     In essence, we don't want to do anything to the car that will require cutting metal on the chassis.  To do so to such a pristine example would almost be blasphemy.  Since the car is a 1973 chassis, it is exempt from all smog testing and compliance here in Southern California.  In recent years, the 1973 and earlier cars have increased significantly in value as people have been looking specifically for cars that don't have to meet the newer and tougher smog requirements.  Most 1974 owners feel slighted, (myself included) since the major smog law changes didn't occur until 1975, and the 1974 smog laws are nearly identical to the earlier 1973 ones.  Since this car is exempt, the options for engine enhancement will be limited only by the availability of funds.  We must be careful in choosing a powerplant, as the early Targas are lighter, and not as stiff as the coupes, and could suffer from torsional problems if the engine is too strong for the car.  It is for this reason that the factory never mass-produced any 911 Turbo Cabriolets or 911 Turbo Targas (there were actually two Targas made for factory workers).  The chassis just isn't stiff enough when you remove the roof pillars.

     If you take a close look at the photos accompanying this series, you will find that there isn't a spec of rust on this car.  Now, there might be some rust coloration on the panels due to surface rust, but the core metal is as sound as it was leaving the factory.

     When looking for a project to start on, the most important element is to get yourself a rust-free chassis.  The most costly, difficult, and annoying (well at least to me) part of a restoration is chassis and body repair.  It's messy, time-consuming, and you will never have as good of a car when you are finished, as a good rust-free example.  I can't stress this enough:  a good rust-free chassis is worth the extra money you will pay for the car.  It is also important to know that all the chassis up to the late seventies were not coated with any rust-prevention materials or coatings (I believe Porsche started this in 1978).

     Well, the first stage of the restoration was to find a good candidate, and we don't think that we could have done any better here.  Our next step is to secure a powerplant.  In the next chapter, we will describe what we chose, why we chose it, and how much it cost and will cost us to bring it up to par.

     In the meantime, I have about 50 pictures of our new acquisition here, complete with descriptions of what to look for when securing yourself a restoration project.  [Posted Sept '99]

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Chassis Driver Side. No dents, no dings, no bondo.  A very professional paint job accompanies this car.  The driver's side fender is shown here, the passenger's is detached.  I think that they had to do some repair on the fender.

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Chassis Passenger Side. Looks the same as the driver's side except for the removed fender.

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911 Driver Side Battery Box. On the early 911s, these cars had dual batteries that were located on each side of the car.  A favorite place for rust, these battery boxes are very hard to find rust free on most cars.  This car has an exceptional battery box that is intact, rust free, and very original.

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Front Trunk, Driver's Side. It's unusual to find a chassis with a front trunk that is as flawless as this one.  This is what it must have looked like when it left the factory. 

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Front Trunk, Driver's Side Corner. No crumple points from previous accidents.  There are no seam lines where there was a clip attached.  Only factory welds here.

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Front Trunk, Under Dash. Under the dash, it is all original, with no rust.  It's not uncommon to find a bit of rust down here as water seeps from the windshield and drain areas.

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Shock Towers. The shock towers and inner fenders would show immediately any damage from an accident.  Unless a body shop was going to drill out and reweld the original spot-welds, you can never get as good or as strong as the original factory did.

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Rack & Pinion. The rack and pinion were left on the car in order to be able to move it around.  This area, prone to water/rust damage appears to be unscathed.

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Outer Corner. Here you can see the battery box, the recently painted door, and the rare, deep dish six inch Fuchs alloy wheel.

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Front View. The front sill that supports the front bumper is straight and hasn't been hit.

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Front Sill. An inside view of the front sill.  Again, no evidence of any damage here - a common place to find some.

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Passenger Side Battery Box. Like the driver's side battery box, this one is rust free.  It is very rare to find these without any rust in them, and this car has been well maintained in the past.  Look here for rust when you are looking at a chassis to purchase

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Battery Box / Front Sill. An excellent view of the battery box and the undersill that is often damaged.

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Driver's Fender. The 914-6 is characterized with the lettering 914-6 on the rear trunk.  In Europe, this script can also seen as VW-Porsche 914-6.  The script is 'gold plated' and attached at three points.

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Front Trunk Under Dash.

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Front Trunk Under Dash.

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Front Trunk Under Dash.

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914-6 Emblem. The 914-6 is characterized with the lettering 914-6 on the rear trunk.  In Europe, this script can also seen as VW-Porsche 914-6.  The script is 'gold plated' and attached at three points.

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914-6 Emblem. The 914-6 is characterized with the lettering 914-6 on the rear trunk.  In Europe, this script can also seen as VW-Porsche 914-6.  The script is 'gold plated' and attached at three points.

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Passenger Door. No rust on the inside of the door (a popular place for rust to exist)

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Passenger Footwell. The only spot that doesn't look too good.  This car sits outside in the dry Los Angeles climate, but sometimes water gathers here.

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Passenger Compartment.  

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Rear of Chassis.  

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Rear Targa Shelf.

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Dashboard with Gauge Holes.  

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Dashboard w/speaker. Here you can see the opening for the center speaker.  Original dashpanel covers are getting very difficult to find with this speaker opening.

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Right Side Rear Seat Well. Some surface rust, but generally harmless.

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Left Side Rear Seat Well.

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Dashboard serial numbers. I don't really know what these numbers mean, however, I know that somewhere on the inside of the dash is written the partial serial number of all Porsches.

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Serial Number Sticker. A sign of a very good chassis is the original VIN sticker on the driver's side door jamb.  It is wise to check this against all the other serial numbers on the chassis before you purchase a car.

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Serial Number in Front Trunk. The serial number is stamped in the front trunk on the passenger side.  This number should be unaltered, and match the numbers on the door jamb, the windshield, and also the hand scrawled number on the inside of the dashboard.
 

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Passenger Side A-Arm. The small tabs on the A-Arm are to mount the forward sway bar.

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Left Side Trailing Arm.  

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Right Front Fender Well.  

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Rear of Chassis. Sitting high of course, because there is no engine installed.

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Torsion Bar Tunnel and Trailing Arm Mounts. 

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Torsion Bar Tunnel and Trailing Arm Mounts.

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Passenger Side Trailing Arm.  

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Driver's Side Trailing Arm. 

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Drivers's Side Engine Compartment.

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Passenger Side Engine Compartment. Shock mount and corners clearly visible.

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Driver's Side Engine Comparment. Top of the shock mount is visible (shocks not installed).

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Driver's Side Engine Compartment. You can see where the fuel filter and electrical box mounts.

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Motor Mount, Driver's Side. Looking nice and rust free, this must be a strong point for attaching the motor.

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Driver's Side Trailing Arm. Showing quite a bit of semi-harmless surface rust.

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Heater Flapper Boxes. On many cars, these heater boxes are rusted away, and need to be replaced.  If they are relatively rust free, then this is a good sign that the car has had a good life.  I have seen that the original heater flapper boxes are red, whereas the replacement ones are black.

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Heater Flapper Box, Driver's Side. I was surprised to see the flapper boxes on this car.  Perhaps they were used as 'covers' during painting, with the knowledge that they would be replaced at a later date?

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Floor, Center View. Not much to say here, except that you can see my 356 in the distance.

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Floor, Driver's Side. The 911 was not designed well with respect to jacking it up.  It is sometimes difficult to find a proper place to put the jack stands.  The floorpan often suffers as a result of unknowledgeable owners or shops.

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Floor, Passenger's Side. My own 911SC, which I think is in great shape, has a large dent in the floorpan because someone tried to jack it up from there.  It is indeed rare to find one this intact.

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Floor, Center View. Not much to say here, except that you can see my 356 in the distance.

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Driver Side Inner Stub Axle. CV Joints and caliper removed, you can see the stub axle that the CV joint mates to.

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Passenger Side Axle. Still attached, this will need to be removed and replaced.

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Torsion Bar Covers. The most popular and probably best place to jack up the rear of a 911.

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Shift Coupler Access Opening. The shift coupler is accessible through this opening.

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Rear Center Tunnel. Shows where the heater pull handles are mounted.

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Forward Center Tunnel. Shows where the shifter mounts, and also a forward access opening.

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Driver Side Rear Seat Area.

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Passenger Side Rear Seat Area.  

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