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Mocal 44-Row Oil Cooler Installation for the 911
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Pelican Technical Article:

Mocal 44-Row Oil Cooler Installation for the 911

Roger Jambor


6-7 hours






Pelican Parts oil line wrench set, Liquid Wrench or WD-40, Acetone, thin walled metric wrench set, 101 Projects for Your 911 by Wayne Dempsey, rivet gun, tin snips,

Applicable Models:

Porsche 911 (1974-89)
Porsche 930 Turbo (1976-89)

Parts Required:

Mocal 44-row oil cooler, Mocal 6.5-inch pull fan, Rust-oleum silver metallic paint, Pelican Parts hard line clamps and rubbers, 1/8-inch pop rivets, Pelican Parts Porsche oil cooler shield, 36 inches of 3/4-inch rectangular steel tubing, 10 inches of 1/2-inch rectangular steel tubing, 5 inches of 1/8-inch by 2-inch sheet steel, 5/16-inch by 18 nuts and lock washers, 5/16-inch by 18 by 1.5-inch bolts, 1/4-inch by 20 bolts (1/2-inch and 1-inch), nuts, lock washers, kept nuts, 3/8-inch washers, rubber garden hose washers, two steel corner braces (4-inches by 7/8-inch), one steel corner brace (5 inches by 1-inch), .08-.10-inch thick 5-inch by 9-inch aluminum sheet

Performance Gain:

Your 911 engine will run up to 45 degrees Fahrenheit cooler with the installation of this oil cooler

Complementary Modification:

Change your oil and filter

     This article should be used in conjunction with the excellent articles by Wayne Dempsey ("911 Carrera Oil Cooler Upgrade") and Tom Sharpes ("Remote Oil Cooler Installation"). Wayne’s book is a must have if you want to work on your Porsche. The differences between this article and theirs are the cooler used, the 44 Row Mocal is larger than the Porsche Cooler and the car is a 1983 SC Targa originally equipped with the "trombone" oil cooler.


  1. Getting the oil line connections loose is difficult and the lines are easily damaged. Penetrant and heat alone did not work very well on the 19 year old lines. Get the oil line wrench set from Pelican and use 1" pipe sections for leverage on the wrenches. We used one 18" length and one 24" length, and it does take two people. With one person holding each side of the fitting you can exert the force necessary in a controlled manner and preserve the fittings and lines.
  2. Power wash the underside of the car or at least the areas you will be working in. It makes the job a lot easier when you can actually see what you are working on.
  3. Remove the front bumper, front valence and horns. This job requires a lot of trial fitting, hole drilling and tapping, etc., and these are a lot easier when you have complete access to the work area.
  4. Although not necessary, remove, clean and paint the hard lines running from front to rear. Use a light color so you can spot leaks quickly. (I used Rustoleum Silver Metallic on the lines and cooler shroud and brackets.) Also, order new hard line clamps and rubbers from Pelican. New parts will protect the lines and keep them from rattling around – you do not want to do this job twice.
  5. My 911 spends too much time in traffic so I supplemented the oil cooler with a "Cool Collar" (UPDATE: Cool Collars are no longer available) and "911 Oil Cooler Scoop", both from Pelican.
  6. The steel tubing and sheet steel used in the project should be wiped down with paint thinner or acetone before you start working with them. They are pretty dirty when purchased and cleaning them makes marking them a lot easier and it keeps things cleaner.
  7. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for connecting the oil lines. Use plenty of oil on the hose when pushing it through the fittings.



The Mocal Kit A includes the 44 row cooler, metric X AN adapters, AN fittings and 12AN stainless hose. The 6 1/2 " fan is also from Mocal. You need the "pull" version because the fan is mounted behind the cooler in order to clear the horns. (Photo1). Source: BAT Inc. / Mocal USA. www.batinc.net.

Photo 1 – Mocal Kit A and 6 1/2" Pull Fan

- Porsche Oil Cooler Shield from Pelican
- 36" length of 3/4" rectangular steel tubing
- 36" length of 5/16 threaded rod
- 10" length of 1/2" rectangular steel tubing
- 5" length of 1/8" X 2" sheet steel
- 5/16" X 18 nuts, lock washers
- 5/16" X 18 X 1 1/2 " bolt
- 1/4 " X 20 bolts ( 1/2" and 1"), nuts, lock washers, kep nuts
- 3/8" washers
- Rubber garden hose washers
- 2 Steel Corner Braces 4" X 7/8"
- 1 Steel Corner Brace 5" X 1"
- 0.08 – 0.10" Aluminum Sheet 5" X 9" (Minimum) Source: Sears Hardware

Step 1 – Making the Oil Cooler Frame The Mocal cooler has two mounting tabs on the top and two on the bottom. However, in this application, we need mounting surfaces on the sides so we have to fabricate them. Leave the red plastic protective caps on the cooler fittings to keep debris out of the cooler as work continues. The side with the red caps will be the top and the sides should be marked "Left" and "Right" so you can keep track of which mounts and brackets go where. Measure the inside distance between the upper and lower cooler mounting brackets and cut the 3/4" rectangular tubing to fit. The distance should be 13 1/4".

Next, cut the 5/16" threaded rod to a length of 14 3/4" or 11/2" longer than the rectangular tubing (Photo 2). Repeat for the other side.


Photo 2 – Frame Parts

Insert the rectangular tubing between the cooler brackets and insert the 5/16" threaded rod through the front bracket hole and through the rectangular tubing and secure it with washers, lock washers and nuts leaving the excess rod at the bottom so it does not interfere when attaching the hose and fittings. (Photo 3) Repeat the procedure for the other side of the cooler. When tightened, this structure will provide a rigid frame for mounting the cooler.

Photo 3 – Frame Trial Assembly

Step 2- Mounting the Fan The fan must be secured to the frame and positioned so that there is at least a 1/8" clearance between the fan and the cooler. In order to accomplish this we have to raise the fan mounting flanges above the cooler frame. I do not like using zip ties or something similar to mount the fan directly to the cooler because it is not a rigid mount and the cooler and fan will work against each other due to vibration. Disassemble the parts from step 1. Cut two 5" lengths of the 1/2" rectangular tubing. At each of the four ends cut away 3 sides of the tubing for a distance of 3/4" leaving the fourth side as a mounting flange. Center the 1/2" tubing on one side of the 3/4" tubing, drill a 1/8" hole through the flanges and the 3/4" tubing and secure with 1/8" pop rivets (Photo 4).

Photo 4 – Fan Mounts

Assemble the frame and cooler loosely and lay the assembly on a flat surface, face up. Position the fan so the wire is pointed up and two mounting flanges are positioned over the two fan mounts. Position the frame rails and fan so that the mounting holes in the fan flanges are positioned over the centerline of the fan mounts and mark the positions of the holes on the fan mounts (Photo 5).

Photo 5 – Aligning Fan

Drill a 7/32" hole in each fan mount and tap it with a 1/4" X 20 tap. Secure the fan to the frame with 1/4" X 20 X 1/2" bolts and lock washers (Photo 6).

Photo 6 – Attaching Fan

Step 3 – Left Side Brackets and Mounting The left side of the frame utilizes two brackets for mounting in the fenderwell. Take the 5" x 1" corner brace and cut each leg down to 4". Measure from the end of each leg so you eliminate the right angle (Photo 7).

Photo 7 – Left Side Brackets

Drill and tap a 1/4 X 20 hole 1 7/8" from the top of the frame

Drill and tap a 1/4 X 20 hole 3 1/2" from the bottom of the frame (Photo 8).

Photo 8 – Bracket Holes in Left Side of Frame

Attach the left side brackets to the frame using 1/4" X 20 X 1/2" bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts snugly but not too tightly because the brackets must be able to move a little (Photo 9).

Photo 9 – Brackets Installed on Left Side of Frame

Inside the fenderwell (Photo 10) re-tap the original oil cooler mounting hole to 5/16 X 18.

Photo 10 – Lower Left Bolt

Using the 5/16 X 18 X 1 1/2" bolt, secure the lower bracket to the inner fenderwell. Between the bracket and the fenderwell use a spacer made of a rubber gasket sandwiched between two 3/8" washers. Use a 3/16" washer and lock washer under the bolt head.

Photo 11 – Lower Left Mount

With the lower bracket tightened enough to hold the cooler in place while still allowing movement, position the cooler in the fenderwell so that it is angled toward the rear and clears the headlamp bucket by approximately one inch. Position the upper bracket so that it points downward and is approximately parallel to the lower bracket. Insert a pencil or marker through the inner hole (Photo 12) and mark the fenderwell. Drill a 5/16" hole through both the outer and inner fenderwell walls.

Photo 12 – Marking Location of Left Upper mounting hole

Cut a 4" length of 5/16" threaded rod and insert it in the left upper mounting hole so that it protrudes on both sides (Photo 13).

Photo 13 – Upper Left Mounting Stud

Secure the trunk end of the mounting stud with a spacer made of a rubber gasket sandwiched between two 3/8" washers and a 3/16" washer, lock washer and 5/16 X 18 nut as shown (Photo 14). Leave approximately 1/8" of the stud above the nut.

Photo 14 - Upper Left Mounting Stud Secured In Trunk

Secure the fenderwell side of the Upper Left Mounting Stud in the same manner as the trunk side. (Photo 15)

Photo 15 - Upper Left Mounting Stud Secured In Fenderwell

Step 4 - Right Side Bracket and Mounting The right side bracket secures the oil cooler frame to the fender support strut. Mount the cooler in the fenderwell using the two right side brackets so that it is positioned where you want it. Place a small piece of light cardboard (a 3X5 card will work) between the right side of the cooler frame and the cooler body. Push it through so that the edge rests on the fender strut flush against the inside edge. Position the cardboard so that it is as horizontal as possible. (Photo 16)

Photo 16 – Right Bracket Template 1

Use a marker to outline the cooler frame, fender strut and fender strut hole on the cardboard (Photo 17). Also mark the position of the card on the cooler frame. Using masking tape on the frame will make this easier. (Photo 17a & 17b)

Photo 17 – Right Bracket Template 2

Photo 17a – Marks on Frame Photo 17b – Marks on Frame

Remove the cooler and disassemble the right frame. Measure the length of the outline on the cardboard and cut a piece of the 1/8" x 2" sheet steel to that length. Lay the cardboard on the piece of sheet steel (Photo 18) and transfer the marks to the sheet steel (Photo 18a)

Photo 18 – Template on Steel Photo 18a – Marks on Steel

Center punch the fender strut hole mark on the steel and drill the hole out to 5/16".

Clamp the sheet steel piece on the inside of the right frame and drill two 1/8" holes through both the sheet steel and the frame wall. Secure with two 1/8" pop rivets. (Photo 19)


Photo 19 – Completed Right Bracket Photo 20 – Assembled Right Side

Reassemble the right frame and do a trial fit of the cooler in the fenderwell. Make any necessary adjustments. (Photo 21)

Photo 21 – Right Side Bracket in Car

Step 5 – Modifying and Mounting the Stone Shield The Porsche Stone Shield and Lower Cover Plate as sourced from Pelican must be modified to work with the Mocal 44 Row Cooler. Trim the top and sides of the cooler so that there is a 1/2" edge on the sides and 1/2" beyond the holes at the top. Pop rivet the 5x9" aluminum sheet to the top of the guard using nine 1/8" pop rivets creating an extension (Photo 22).

Photo 22 – Shield Extension

Since the holes for the oil lines in the original Porsche Stone Shield do no align with the Mocal line location, new holes must be cut in the shield extension. Lay the shield on the cooler and mark the centerlines of the oil line fittings on the shield extension. Use a 2" hole saw to cut the holes (Photo 23) and bend the extension back over the top of the cooler to check the fit (Photo 24).

Photo 23 – Oil Line Holes Photo 24 – Oil Line Clearance

Trim the mounting tabs of the lower shield to a 1" length, position at the bottom of the shield, drill a 1/8" hole in each and secure with pop rivets (Photo 25).

Photo 25 – Mounting Lower Shield

Trim one leg of the 4" x 7/8" Steel Corner Braces to a length of 3/4". Trim the long leg to a length of 2 7/8". Insert a 1/4x20x3/4" bolt through the hole in the short leg and secure with a lock washer and nut (Photo 26).

Photo 26 – Stone Shield Brackets

On the outside of the right frame 4 1/2" from the top, drill and tap a 14x20 mounting hole. Mount a Stone Shield bracket on the right frame with the short leg on top and pointed inward (Photo 27).

Photo 27 – Right Side Stone Shield Bracket

Repeat the process for the left side with the mounting hole 4 3/4" from the bottom.

Position the shield on the cooler and punch/drill two 1/4" holes where the bracket bolts contact the edge of the shield. Secure the shield to the brackets with 1/4"x29 kep nuts (Photo 28).

Photo 28 – Mounted Stone Shield

Reinstall the horns, mount the cooler and that’s it.


  1. You can use aluminum tubing and sheet instead of steel if you want to save weight.
  2. Once the cooler is finally trial fitted, you can have all the brackets and tubing welded together eliminating the pop rivets, bolts, washers, etc. Leave the Stone Shield removable.
  3. You may want to use metric-to-AN adaptors and AN hose fittings on the existing oil lines. The supplied metric-to-AN fittings require a very thin wrench to tighten correctly.
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Comments and Suggestions:
79 Euro Comments: Did the stone guard come with Mocal Kit A or is this an additional option?
March 16, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think the stone guard is a Porsche part and is not included with the Mocal kit. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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