Figure 41: Fuel Filter and Accumulator
Figure 42: Fuel Filter Connection
Figure 43: Fuel Accumulator Disconnected
Figure 44: Fuel Hose Connections
Figure 45: Fuel Hose Connections
Figure 46: Main Engine Wire Harness Connector
Figure 47: Disconnecting Wire Harness and CD Box
Figure 48: Disconnected O2 Sensor
Figure 49: Oxygen Sensor
Figure 50: Breather Hose Disconnected
Figure 51: Breather Hose Connection
Figure 52: Accelerator Engine Mount
Figure 53: Accelerator Linkage
Figure 54: Cruise Control Unit
Figure 55: Cruise Control Bracket
Figure 56: Four Nuts that Hold Transmission to Engine Case
Figure 57: Engine Motor Mounts
Figure 58: Engine Dropping Down
Figure 59: Pulling Engine Away from Car
Figure 60: Engine Dropping Down
Figure 61: Engine Dropping Down
Figure 62: Engine Separating from Transmission
Figure 63: Separating Engine From Tranny
Figure 64: Separating Engine from Tranny
Figure 65: Top View of Engine Separating from Tranny
Figure 66: Top View of Engine Pulled Away from Tranny
Figure 67: Separating Engine from Transmission
Figure 68: Engine Pulled Away from Tranny
Figure 69: Motor Resting on Wooden Blocks
Figure 70: Make Sure the Engine Doesn't Rest on CAT
Figure 71: Engine Lowered on Blocks
Figure 72: Watch Not to Damage Hard Line
Figure 73: Engine/Car Clearance Problems
Figure 74: Engine on Cart and Almost Out
Figure 75: Engine Removed
Figure 76: Engine Bay Without Engine
Figure 77: Engine Removed (Time for a beer)
|| With the compressor out of the way,
we can now move on to what is perhaps the most annoying and dangerous part of lowering
your engine - disconnecting the fuel lines. In order to make some more room for this
procedure, it may be wise to remove one or more of the blower motor hoses. On the
911SC in particular, there is one hose that runs down the driver's side of the engine,
essentially blocking everything. Loosening a few clamps and hoses makes this large
plastic hose easily removable. Make sure that your garage is well ventilated, and
that you don't have any sources of ignition or heat around. Note that halogen lamps,
and even shop fluorescent lamps can ignite gasoline. With this process, there is
really no way to avoid spilling at least some fuel in the engine compartment and on the
ground. Figure 41 shows the fuel accumulator
(olive green) and the fuel filter (silver) on the right side of the engine compartment
(fuel accumulator already disconnected). I recommend that you start by disconnecting
the connection at the top of the fuel filter, shown in Figure
42. Be careful when removing this connection, as cars that are old may have some
corrosion, and it may be difficult to untorque the nut without damaging something.
Also be careful not to strip the connection. Now, remove the connection from the
bottom of the fuel accumulator, as shown in Figure 43.
This also may be a bit frozen, and might require some encouragement to loosen up. In
addition to the two connections at the fuel accumulator and filter, you need to disconnect
another line closer to the engine. Figure 44
and Figure 45 show this connection point. On
different cars with different fuel injection systems, you will have to figure out what
lines need to be disconnected. If you look closely, you can usually figure it out
without too much head scratching. After you disconnect each of these lines, I would
recommend that you leave your garage, and evacuate your house (if located above the garage
like mine) as the fumes will be quite strong. Gas odors and fumes have been found to
cause cancer, so be advised to try not to inhale too much of the stuff.
After the gas lines are detached, then move to the right side of the engine compartment
and disconnect the electrical connections. Start with the main wiring harness (Figure 46). Be careful when pulling this apart -
use a small screwdriver to remove the plug. This will minimize damage. Then,
move on to disconnecting the CD box. This is the small aluminum finned box located
next to the fuel filter, as shown in Figure 47.
Be careful when pulling this apart too. Be sure to disconnect any additional
electrical connections like the heater blower motor (white plug visible in Figure 47).
Now, you want to disconnect the oxygen sensor. I believe
that only cars from 1980 on had the O2 sensor installed. The sensor has a plug that
connects near the fuel filter and accumulator, and can be seen in Figure 48. Disconnect this plug and tuck it out of
the way. For reference, the O2 sensor is located near the driver's side heat
exchanger, right before the catalytic converter, as shown in Figure 49.
After you unplug the O2 sensor, you want to disconnect the oil
breather hoses. This in general varies greatly with the different cars and fuel
injection systems. Figure 50 shows an oil tank
breather hose that is attached to the filler neck. This is common on most
carts. Figure 51 shows a breather hose
attachment point for the CIS injection. Depending upon your car, you will have to
look carefully and inspect the hoses to see which ones need to be disconnected.
Don't confuse the A/C hoses with the oil hoses - the A/C lines are connected to the A/C
After removing the breather hoses and oil lines in the engine
compartment, you now need to disconnect the accelerator linkage from the motor. On
my 911SC, this was unusually difficult to do, and I ended up accidentally bending the
accelerator rod - something you want to avoid doing. The rod is connected using a
small ball joint end that snaps into a rocker that is attached to a bracket located on the
top of the engine. This rocker/bracket assembly is shown in Figure 52. It is barely visible from the rear of
the car when the engine and all of the fuel injection is installed. This assembly is
connected to a long rod that runs from the engine compartment to the rear of the
transmission. You need to disconnect this long rod at the ball joint (Figure 53) and remove it, to avoid damaging it.
The ball end of the rod should simply snap off of the rocker located inside the engine
compartment. After it is disconnected from the engine compartment, you should be
able to slide it off of the mounting point at the rear of the transmission.
For those cars equipped with cruise control, you need to
disconnect the cruise control cable. The control actuator is shown in Figure 54. This unit is normally located on the
driver's side of the car in the engine compartment. The long cable coming out of the
unit is connected to the accelerator, and may be difficult to reach and disconnect.
If you follow the cable, you will find that there are two small bolts holding on a bracket
that attaches the cable to the throttle body of the fuel injection. You need to
disconnect this bracket, shown in Figure 55, and put
the cable out of the way somewhere inside of the engine compartment.
If you have gotten this far, then you should have just about
everything disconnected and ready for the final engine drop! Once, again, I cannot stress
enough that there are significant differences between all of the 911s, and you will have
to use some common sense to make sure that you disconnected everything. Look for
electrical connections, hoses, gas lines, breather hoses, etc. Look, and then look
again, as there is a likelihood that you missed something. Also, when you are
dropping down the engine, make sure that you do it slowly, and keep checking to make sure
that nothing is still connected.
Now it's time to disconnect the transmission from the
engine. There are four nuts that hold the engine to the transmission. The
engine case has four studs that protrude from the case and are inserted into the
transmission case. You now need to remove these four nuts. Two are located on
the driver's side, and two are located on the passenger side. Three of them should
be obvious - they are large, and look like they hold the engine case to the
transmission. The fourth one is impossible to see - you have to know it's
there. It's located above the starter. This nut is also not your typical nut -
it's a Allen barrel nut, and requires either an 8 or 10 mm Allen wrench to remove.
This nut, and the other three 'normal' nuts are shown in Figure
56. Note that if your engine has already been out of the car (for a clutch job,
for instance), then the person reassembling it may have placed a different type of nut in
it's place. Unfortunately, you can see up there, so you will have to figure it out
simply by feeling around. If you have a difficult time figuring out where these nuts
are located, you might want to look at some of the later pictures in this article, where
the engine is being removed from the transmission, as this will give you an indication of
where the nuts are located. (Figures 62-68)
After the four bolts are removed, it's time to lower your
engine! start by placing your jack under the engine, and jacking it up until the
jack just begins to support the weight of the engine. Place the jack under the oil
sump plate, as this is a pretty good balance point for the engine. Now move to the
engine compartment and remove the engine mount bolts from the center of the engine
mounts. The engine mount with the bolt removed is shown in Figure 57. The motor mount bar which bolt screws
into it tapped and threaded, so there is no nut that you need to hold underneath the motor
mount. After you remove these bolts, you should feel the motor drop down slightly as
the weight shifts from the car to the jack.
Now, you want to slowly lower the motor down. It's wise
to have two people around for this job - one to lower the motor, and one to check to see
if there is anything caught in the mess of hoses and wires. Lower the motor down
very slowly until you have enough room to pull it forward slightly. This distance
will probably be about 1 foot or slightly more. Figure
58, Figure 59, Figure
60, and Figure 61 all show the process of
dropping down the motor.
When you get enough clearance in front of the fan to pull the
motor forward, have your assistant look under the car at the seam between the motor and
the transmission. If you give a slight yank on the jack, pulling the motor away from
the car, you should see the engine start to separate from the transmission, as shown in Figure 62. This is a good sign. In order to
effectively remove the engine from the transmission, you need to have the angle of the
engine lined up properly with the transmission, as shown in Figure 63. If the engine is cocked with respect to
the transmission (Figure 64), you will have problems
removing it from the car. You should move teh jack up and down until you find the
exact point where it will separate from the transmission. Once you have the proper
alignment, you should be able to pull and yank on the engine in order to get it to
separate from the transmission. Figure 65 is a
top view of the engine separating from the transmission. Once you pull the engine
completely away from the transmission, it might begin to waver slightly on the jack.
It would be a good idea to have your assistant help you with balancing the engine. Figure 66, Figure 67,
and Figure 68 shows the engine pulling away from the
Once the engine is freed from the transmission, you can lower
it all the way down. I recommend resting the motor on wooden blocks. This is a
good way to go, because then you can remove your jack and transfer the motor to a
furniture cart, which makes it much easier to move around. I recommend using some
4x4 blocks of wood, and placing the motor down, resting on the heat exchangers.
While this is probably not a good long term solution, for the immediate need of
transferring to a cart, this should work fine. Figure
69 shows the motor resting on two sets of blocks. Be careful not to have the
motor sit on the catalytic converter (CAT), as this will damage the sheet metal and
perhaps the CAT too (Figure 70). Figure 71 and Figure 72
show the motor sitting firmly on top of wooden blocks.
By this time, it will be obvious if you need to jack up the
car higher, as can be seen in Figure 73. At this
time, you can take the jack and use it to jack up the car from the rear of the floorpan,
near the rear of the car. Make sure that you use a block of wood or newspaper to
avoid damaging the floorpan. Don't jack up the car in the middle of the pan, because
it is weak, and cannot support the weight of the car. After you have enough
clearance, I suggest transferring the motor to a furniture cart, as shown in Figure 74. This will make it really easy to pull
out and roll around your garage. The final step is to just pull the motor out from
underneath the car. Be careful of clutch cables and electrical wires that might be
hanging down, and might get caught on the wheels of the cart.
Well, that's about it! Once you have your engine out, it
should look like Figure 75. The inside of the
engine compartment, complete with transmission should resemble Figure 76. Finally, the engine sitting on the cart
is shown in Figure 77. Now you're ready to
replace your clutch, fix oil leaks, or rebuild your engine (all future tech
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here to look at comments, suggestions, and feedback from other people who have read
this article. Or, add your own feedback,
and help everyone else out by learning from your experience!
Dave Kalokitis (email@example.com)
Wayne, I just completed R&R on my 911 engine. Now that I'm done, I
found your article on the process. You seem to have covered al the bases. These is one
thing I would recommend slightly differently. I used a plywood dolly between the engine
and jack. It is layered plywood about an inch and half thick with 4 casters. Its about the
size of your furniture dolly with a solid center. You could add a plywood center to your
dolly and have a similar set up. Just screw the plywood to the dolly. This worked great. I
set the engine down and the dolly was already in place. Now I could use my jack to pick up
a corner of the car and wheel the engine out. I changed the clutch and reassembled. The
engine never left the dolly. I removed the engine and trans as a unit. You should mention
this option as clutch alignment is easier in this fashion. Hope this helps and thanks for
the good tech articles. I have used your valve adjustment procedure very
Dale Pratt (Dale92261@aol.com)
Your article on dropping the 911 engine was very helpful, and I thank
you for taking the time to write it. I have something that may prove to be helpful
to others in respect to that fourth nut holding the tranny and motor together, the one
over the starter. Mine was the original barrel nut (10 mm Allen) but the stud completely
filled the cavity, preventing me from inserting an Allen wrench. I simply skipped this
nut, and went ahead with the engine drop. When the engine had dropped down about two and a
half inches, the nut was easy to get to from the engine compartment. I used a very small
pipe wrench to loosen the nut, and the rest of the drop went normally. I hope this helps
any others who may run into the same problem, I still don't know why that stud was so
long, but on reassembly I intend to see if the stud can be seated into the block a little
further. Thanks again for the article.
Just a little idea which you may like to add to your 911 engine removal (or others
We all know that when oil lines are disconnected that oil drips follow and whilst putting
rags in the ends of lines may work for a while, if they become saturated they drip as
well. A simple very inexpensive idea is to use kids ballons as oil line
"condoms". Just stretch them over the ends of lines... they seal well and also
act as a mini-accumulator of oil.
Photo attached of my engine showing balloons in place.
I was put onto the idea when assisting some guys in the Porsche Car Club of Queensland
(Australia) work on engines.
Another minor point in articles on the site... eg "spark plug #1 is at the back on
the drivers side" ... uh uh ... in other places the drivers sits on the other side of
the car ... better to refer to #1 as at the back on the Left Hand side when viewing the
fanbelt or whatever.
Your articles are never the less VERY VERY excellent and a great help to home mechanics
Keep up the great work and look forward to your 101 Projects book being released.