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911 Alternator and Fan Replacement & Upgrade
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

911 Alternator and Fan Replacement & Upgrade

Walt Fricke

Time:

3-4 hours

Tab:

$777 (new)

Talent:

***

Tools:

22mm socket, metric socket set, flathead screwdriver or Porsche pulley retaining tool, metric hex key set, hammer,

Applicable Models:

Porsche 911 (1974-77)

Parts Required:

Rebuilt or new alternator and previously used or new 11-blade fan

Performance Gain:

Proper charging of your 911's electrical system and better cooling to your alternator and engine

Complementary Modification:

Replace the fan belt
     Has the alternator on your 911 gone out?  Did you want to upgrade your 2.7 motor to a larger sized fan?  Want to clean inside your fan housing?  Well, then this tech article is for you.   Inside we will cover the removal, and replacement of both the alternator, alternator brushes, and the actual fan for the 911 motor.  The 2.7L motors were originally shipped with a five-blade fan which soon proved to be less than ideal for adequate air flow.  As a result, these engines often ran hotter, and didn't last as long (there were other reasons for the 2.7L motor's premature failure, but we won't go into that here).  While there have been many varieties of 911 motors over the years, the principles are generally the same across all of them.  This article was written using photos of a 1974 911S motor which already had an 11-blade fan installed.

     The alternator for the 911 motor is attached to the rear of the fan, and is enclosed within the fiberglass fan housing.  To remove the fan and the alternator on a 911, you do not need to remove the engine from the car.  However, for the 914-6, it is impossible to remove the alternator without removing either the engine, or the fuel injection (Weber carbs, etc.).  Figure 1and Figure 2show the rear of the 2.7L 911 motor.  This particular motor is shown removed from the car, and has a 914-6 motor mount attached.  The coil is attached to the fan housing on the left above the distributor.

     The first step in removing the fan housing, is to remove the alternator/fan belt.  While holding the pulley steady, use a 22mm socket to loosen the pully retaining nut on the fan.  Do not hold the fan by the blades, as they can easily crack under the pressure.  If you are having difficulty keeping the fan from turning, use a screw driver inserted into the holes of the pulley or use the special Porsche pulley retaining tool.  This tool was supposed to have shipped with the 911 toolkit as standard equipment.  For more information on removing the fan belt, refer to the Pelican Technical Article, Fan Belt and Pulley Replacement.  Figure 3shows the fan belt removed.

     After the fan belt is removed, remove the coil from the fan housing.  Figure 4shows the coil attached to the fan housing.  You do not need to unplug the ignition wires from the coil.  Just simply remove the two nuts that hold both the coil and it's ground strap to the fan housing.  Once removed, place the coil to the side, as shown in Figure 5.

     Now, remove the two screws that hold the fiberglass fan shroud (green in this case) to the fan housing.  The first one is located near the top of the fan housing, on the right side, and is shown in Figure 6.  The other screw is located on the right side of the fan housing  near the distributor.  This screw also often doubles as a grounding point for the stainless steel covered ignition wires.  This bolt with the ignition wire grounding sheath attached is shown in Figure 7.  It is recommended to replace the bolts into their original holes while working on the car.  That way, you usually don't lose the bolt and the washers that are associated with it.

     The next step is to loosen the retaining band that holds the fan housing to the case and fiberglass shroud.  There are two bolts that require a hex key to loosen up the retaining ring, shown in Figure 8.  After you loosen these two bolts, the fan housing should be free to be removed.  Figure 9shows the fan housing pulled out from the fiberglass fan shroud.  Be careful not to pull on the wires that are connected to the alternator, as shown in Figure 10.

     If you are interested in only replacing the brushes on your alternator, then you need not disassemble any further.  Carefully move the alternator around so that you can reach the back panel where the brushes are located.   The rear of the alternator is shown in Figure 11.  The brushes are located behind the small 1" x 2" screwed panel at the top.  Loosen the screws, and remove the brush assembly, as shown in Figure 12.  The actual brushes are two small pieces of metal that are spring loaded to compress against the center shaft of the alternator.  Worn brushes normally wouldn't stick very far out of the assembly.   Replacing them with a new set may renew your alternator and may also solve any intermittent problems you may have been having.  For 914-6 owners, it makes sense to replace your brushes if you have the motor out of the car, considering the fact that it is very difficult to do with the engine still in the car.

     If you are planning to remove and replace the fan or the alternator, carefully label all the wires that are attached to the alternator, and if possible, take a picture of them.  Remove these wires, and carefully place them out of the way.  Now the fan and housing should pull away from the fan shroud.  The fan/alternator assembly is shown in Figure 13.

     Now, you can separate the fan/alternator from it's outer circular housing.  Remove the screws that hold the alternator to the housing, and light tap on the studs with a hammer.  The housing should begin to separate from the fan & alternator.  A few more tugs, and the two should come apart, as shown in Figure 14.  The housing without the fan is shown in Figure 15, and the fan/alternator is shown in Figure 16.

     The fan is pressed on to the alternator shaft, and can be removed with light tapping on the outer rim of the fan.  Figure 17shows the fan being tapped and removed from the alternator.  Tap the fan every few degrees or so to get it to slip off of the alternator shaft in a uniform manner.  The fan should simply slip off of the alternator shaft.  At this point, you should observe that the fan has a notch that lines up with a woodruff key in the alternator shaft.  Upon reassembly, you should make sure that the fan and the shaft properly line up, otherwise you will not be able to get the fan on the shaft.  The fan is shown in Figure 18, and the alternator is shown in Figure 19.

     Replacement of the alternator is performed by simply returning your old one in for a newly rebuilt one.  Pelican Partscan provide you with the exact match of rebuilt alternator for your car, at very competitive prices.  In an future article, we will cover testing and rebuilding of your alternator.

     If you would like to install a new fan in your car, now would be the time to do it.  The 2.7 motors all shipped with a 5-blade fan that could be upgraded to an 11-blade fan, if you have the correct fan.  The following table shows the fan sizes and years that they were installed on 911 motors:

     Check the measurements against the one on your car before you order and attempt to install your 11-blade fan.  The diameter of the pulley is determined by the diameter of the raised section of the pulley as shown in Figure 18Pelican Partscan also hook you up with good price on a new or used fan for your 911 motor.

     Reassembly of the fan housing is simply the reverse of assembly.  Make sure that you align the fan with the key on the alternator shaft, that you attach the alternator wires properly, and that you also check the fan to make sure it spins well without hitting the outside housing.  When reattaching the bolts that hold the fan shroud to the housing, make sure you remember to attach the grounding cables for the ignition wires.  When you are ready to reattach the fan belt and pulley, be sure to read our Pelican Technical Article, Fan Belt and Pulley Replacement.  Improper installation of your fan belt can lead to premature failure which can overheat and destroy your engine.

     Well, that's about all there is to it.  If you have any questions or comments, please be sure to forward them our way.  As a reminder, your continued support of Pelican Partsensures that this site will continue to exist and grow.  The development of future technical articles is directly dependent on your continued parts purchases through us. Thanks for your continued support.


Walter Fricke offers his own comments on the removal of the alternator:

    Your tool kit should have a spanner to hold the alternator pulley tight, along with another to use to loosen the big nut in the middle of the pulley. If not, you can purchase both from a catalog house. This gets your fan belt off. Note the position of the spacer washers on both sides of the half of the pulley half which comes off. You use these to adjust belt tension, and always need to keep the ones you took off the inside on the outside so you don't run out of threads for the big nut to grab.

     Having accomplished this, disconnect your battery - there is unswitched battery plus going to the alternator at all times via a connection on the starter motor.

     Now start taking loose the various bolts which hold the fiberglass engine shroud onto the top rear of the engine - some attach to the fan housing, and others on down on both sides. I like to remove the left rear cover plate (the sheet metal or plastic plate behind and above the distributor also, as it allows you to reach in behind the alternator. You do these things because you are going to have to take out the whole fan housing, to which the alternator is attached. So everything should come off of the fan housing. The coil, for instance, comes off.

     To take out the fan housing first remove the bolt (usually an Allen type 8mm bolt) which squeezes the fan housing strap against itself. Now pull the fiberglass fan shrouding up enough so you can start removing the fan housing. The bottom of the fan housing rests on a short peg, which centers it and locates it, so it has to come out over this. Looking in you will see that to get the assembly all the way out you will have to disconnect some wires. Most alternators have a ground strap which is attached to one of the engine case peripheral studs. Reaching in, remove the nut on that stud bolt to free the connector. Also, there are some wires coming out of the back of the alternator. I think some later alternators may have just a three or so prong connector to allow this (hurray if they do), but on earlier cars I found I needed to disconnect the plastic air ducting housing which attaches to the backside of the fan housing in order to be able to get at the nuts for the bolt on connections for some of these wires, which areplaced on the backside of the alternator and are not the easiest thing to get at.

     If you don't have a simple connector, make a diagram so you will know which wire goes where. Take the whole assembly out. My recollection is that the same nuts which hold the plastic cover on serve as most of the nuts which hold the alternator onto the fan housing. However, you could take it as is into your auto-electric shop if that's the route you are going to go. If you are just swapping in a rebuilt unit, you will need to take off the fan so you can get the alternator itself off of the housing. While using a chatter gun against the shaft while pulling on the fan with the fingers usually works, if you don't have this air tool people have suggested you can tap on the rear of the fan itself with a wooden dowel from the backside once you have the housing out. Don't tap on the blades - tap on the stronger cylindrical center part. Keep track of the Woodruf key which keeps the fan in place on the alternator shaft.

     Assembly pretty much reverse of removal. No real magic in any of this.

Walt Fricke
frickew@ci.boulder.co.us

Also see Wil Ferch's write-up on this topic as well...


911 & Year

Fan Pulley Diameter

911 1965-74 3.75"
911 1975-77 3.25"
911SC 1978-79 3.125"
911SC & Carrera 1980-89 3.25"
Front View, 1974 2.7L 911 Motor
Figure 1

Front View, 1974 2.7L 911 Motor

911 Fan Close-Up
Figure 2

911 Fan Close-Up

Fan Belt Removed and Pulley Replaced
Figure 3

Fan Belt Removed and Pulley Replaced

911 Coil
Figure 4

911 Coil

Coil Removed
Figure 5

Coil Removed

Top Bolt for Fan Enclosure
Figure 6

Top Bolt for Fan Enclosure

Grounding Bolt for Ignition Wires
Figure 7

Grounding Bolt for Ignition Wires

Fan Housing Band Retaining Bolts
Figure 8

Fan Housing Band Retaining Bolts

Pull Fan Assembly Out
Figure 9

Pull Fan Assembly Out

Wires Attached to Rear of Alternator
Figure 10

Wires Attached to Rear of Alternator

Rear View of Alternator
Figure 11

Rear View of Alternator

Used Alternator Brushes
Figure 12

Used Alternator Brushes

Fan and Housing
Figure 13

Fan and Housing

Alternator/Fan and Housing Assembly
Figure 14

Alternator/Fan and Housing Assembly

Fan Housing
Figure 15

Fan Housing

Alternator and Fan Assembly
Figure 16

Alternator and Fan Assembly

Removing Fan From Alternator Shaft
Figure 17

Removing Fan From Alternator Shaft

11-Blade Fan
Figure 18

11-Blade Fan

Front View of Alternator
Figure 19

Front View of Alternator

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Comments and Suggestions:
jetmech92 Comments: Is there a spacer between the fan housing and alt.?I up graded to a larger fan and housing on 78 911 sc, old housing cracked old housing had to have a thicker pad for the alt.fiberglass duct leaves a 3/8 gap please help thanks
September 10, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A gap at the exterior of fan and shroud? You may have the wrong part installed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tcj911t Comments: Thanks for the suggestions, I think all is working now. I was able to get a solid red generator light on my dash with the ignition on and then it goes out once I start the engine and I see charging voltage on my cigarette lighter volt meter. What I ended up doing was to remove the alternator again and check all of the connections which were good. I then modified the fiberglass shroud to allow me to connect the ground strap directly to the bottom alternator bolt with direct contact to the metal alternator housing without fiberglass in the way. I also ended up removing the noise suppressor between the alternator and the voltage regulator. I am not 100% sure if the improved ground strap connection or removing the noise suppressor solved the problem. Do I need the noise suppressor? I did a test drive last night and did not hear any noise on the radio while I was driving? My new VR is a solid state VR that replaces the original one which was not solid state. Does using a solid state VR remove/reduce the need for a noise suppressor? Thanks!
August 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, you do need it. I believe it helps with ignition noise as well. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tcj911t Comments: I had my 1971 911T Bosch 55 amp alternator repaired only needed new brushes, re-assembled everything and now get no generator light on my dash when ignition key is turned on? Any ideas what is wrong? I am not excited about tearing everything apart again, ugh. Repair shop claimed alternator tested good once new brushes installed. I double checked that all wires were connected correctly on alternator. One question I have is how to reattach ground strap to alternator bolts before or after fiberglass shroud is fitted over alternator bolts? Thanks for any help!
August 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No alt light, the circuit may be open to the gauge. Check for power on the wire at the gauge and trace it back tot he alt. The wire should be grounded at the alt with the engine off and have battery voltage when running.

the ground is attached with the generator tilted toward you. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Frank Comments: Casey, I have a 1989 911 3.2 targa.
March 31, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The only piece I see is the woodruff key which is installed in the shaft of the alternator. I do not recall the washer you speak of, and it does not show up on the Porsche parts diagram. Could you send me a photo? - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: Sorry, one more question. What nuts, spacers or washers go in between the back of the fan and the front of the alternator On the shaft? I only have one and it is wide on the bottom and narrow at the top. It was installed with the wide end against the back of the fan & the narrow end of this spacer/washer faced the alternator. Was this correct? Are there other nuts, spacers or washers that go between fan and alternator on shaft? And do you have a drawing/diagram of an exploded view which shows them all? Thanks.
March 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What year and model 911 are you working on? I can try to find a diagram for you. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: Nick, I got battery voltage on alternator red wire and blue wire with engine key *off*. could that be a problem? Thanks.
March 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If I recall correctly the red is hot at all times ground will be ground at all times and the blue should be hot with the key on. Does the battery light stay illuminated after the car is turned off? There is a diode that can fail causing that issue. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: Nick, you don't think this is a wiring problem in the car, ie somewhere between the alternator and battery some wire is cut?
March 24, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be, Check if the alternator has battery volts on the main cable, battery ground on the brown, and the small (maybe blue) has ignition battery volts, all with the key ON. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: Just had alternator rebuilt on my 89 911 Targa. Belt and fan spin fine, no slippIng. Put brand new battery in. No charging of any kind. Voltage is 11.8 when engine on. Does not increase with increased RPMs. Connections are tight. What have I missed?


March 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have either a faulty alternator or regulator. I would full field the alternator and see if it creates a magnetic field. If not, it is faulty. If it does, the regulator is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bigmike Comments: 930 Turbo /86 - Howling coming from alternator when I turn lights on ! Could this be bearing in alternator ?
January 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Likely a faulty alternator. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ryan Comments: Nick, based on your response I did check the voltage and it's reading well over 12 volts. Any ideas at this point. Will changing the bulb to 5 W get rid of the generator light coming on?
August 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Define well over 12. Also, did you check current? The system needs to be load tested to confirm it is properly functioning.

If the bulb has not been replaced with the wrong type, changing it will not fix the issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ryan Comments: Have a 74 911 with new battery, alternator and regulator with new belt that is tight turns the crank by tool. The generator light is always on even after warm and rev at 2 k. Any thoughts
August 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you check and confirm charging system voltage? I would start there before chasing any gremlins. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Roadnuts Comments: Just wanted to say thanks for the great info on this mod. I recently installed an 11 blade fan and housing on an 83' 911 SC. Without this article, I'd still be lost! Just a couple tips that I have from my car: The car was already upgraded to the 11 blade fan, when it came apart there were 5 shims for the belt adjustment, but they were all on the outside, and the belt was slipping! Someone before me didn't read this article! I ended up using 3 shims on the outside and 2 on the inside to get the proper belt tension. When installing the alternator to the new housing, I found it very difficult to get the alternator bottomed in the housing and square. I used a plastic mallet to tap the alternator all the way in, it was a very tight fit! Also, when installing the housing with alternator back into the car, make sure the housing is pushed/tapped all the way down and in. It's crucial that the dowel is seated properly into the housing. You'll know it is when the belt no longer rubs the housing! Thanks again for all the great info.
April 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Franck Comments: Hi,
I have a 5 blade fan on my 1976 2.7l engine.
I measure 3.75" on the Fan Pulley Diameter.
Is it normal? because I don't think it could match with a 3.25" diameter replacement...
Thanks a lot for your help.
March 25, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a later model fan blade and associated parts on your engine. It could be it was serviced in the past with the larger fan.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can sort out what you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
brithebold Comments: think my alternator was in upside down to the housing and I see no ground strap any where. Pity there are no pics to help? Tx Bri
February 10, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try this article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/20-Alternator_Replacement/20-Alternator_Replacement.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
tree Comments: 1982 911 SC - no warning light when stopped - check bulb - was okay. Decided to put new alternator in - which went very well mechanically - but no warning light with engine stopped. Checked voltage at the lamp - +12V on both sides. Grounded blue wire side and the bulb came on. Noticed no charging occurring when I turned on the engine voltage drops from about +12.2 volts to under +12 when running. The new alternator is Valeo. Seems like the mostly likely possibility is a broken blue wire. Am going to disassemble things and ground the blue wire and see if the dash light comes on.

My plastic cover on the back of the alternator had 5 holes in it - with a gap at the bottom. Was a bit of a challenge to rotate things a bit to get to the two bottom ones - but not too hard.

Will update as I find out more things.


More on the 92SC issue see posting below this one. Tested by grounding the blue wire on the back of the alternator - and no light. I notice now that the connection of the blue wire is just a diode drop to ground. My old alternator can do that!! So - likely I didn't have to replace the alternator - but I sure do like having a new one the bearing/brushes on the old one were making some noise. On the back of the warning light - there are two blue wires - one with a green stripe and one with red. The blue wire back at the alternator is blue with no stripe as near as I can tell. I took off the black shrink tubing as far as I could hoping to find a break in the wire - but nothing found. Guess I will have to see if the schematics help me figure out where the various blue wires hook up with each other. I am looking at the stuff on top of the engine air box and hoping I don't have to take all of that off to find the issue.


Final chapter see below for the two first chapters. I found some kind of alarm control unit had been added to this car. It is hiding under the cover cowl? that covers up the fan blower just under where the windshield is. There was some kind of two wire cable that was hooked up in series between the blue wire - and the warning light. So - the original failure must of had something to do with this alarm unit - which is now going to get disconnected from the blue wire circuit. Now - when I ground the blue wire at the alternator - both the battery and OXS light comes on. The OXS light has a diode so it comes on whenever the battery light does making it more obvious there is a problem. Now - to put everything back together. I am sure it will all work now.
September 29, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for taking the time to share this info and the follow. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Herb Comments: Thanks for the write-up -very helpful, but I have one question regarding ground strap '76 911 -2.7L:

I am clear how it attaches to the engine block, but not where it attaches to the alternator. There are six studs and the grey plastic baffle goes over all six studs. Is the ground strap supposed to go between the fan and the shroud or does the shroud go on first and then strap? Either way, it seems that a good electrical connection would not be made, partly because I think the plastic shroud would probably crack if the nut is tightened. Has anyone tried to "double nut" to sandwich the ground strap?

Alternately I am thinking to modify the plastic baffle and drill out the hole where strap attaches, large enough for the nut to slip through so that I can crank the nut directly on the stud.

Any other ideas/comments.
May 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See attached photo for ground location, photo from the article.

if I remember correctly, the ground bolts to the stud of the alternator, outside the shroud. - Nick at Pelican Parts
ArcticOne Comments: Thanks for this write up - wished I would have read it before I performed the alternator removal. The articles provides more details on some steps that are not identified in either the 101 Projects book or the Bentley manual.

One question I have is how to identify which alternator I have. Mine has no markings on it and the Marchal dust-cap on the shaft had disintegrated when the alternator failed.
October 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bob Comments: I need information for the fan and shroud assembly for a type 4 engine. thanks
October 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What type of information? If you are looking for parts, Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Steve Comments: Just had my fan and fan housing powder coated and now trouble putting it back in properly. Maybe I'm making it harder than it is, but when I set it in place, on the "peg," it doesn't seem secure. Eventually, it can be moved up against the backside of the belt pulley. It also looks like th TDC mark on the fan housing is maybe slightly to the left as I'm looking at the engine.
July 4, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the powder coating too thick and interfering with the fit? Take it bac out and check that there isn;t a wire or other component that is in the way, preventing it to align. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
dohertycm Comments: Would it be possible to post a tech article about updating a 74 911 type external regulator system to an internal regulator system...?
May 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if we get the chance to perform the procedure, we will definitely document it and create a tech article. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
zioo Comments: This material is outstanding. After an expert rebuilt my engine, it was discovered the cold-start mechanism did not work. Eventually this led me into the fan housing and the alternator. It was discovered that the ground strap was not hooked to the engine stud and bolt/nut. It was further observed that the internal shroud/air guide was left off of the assembly. One was sourced immediately and then modified to fit. Apparently, with a modified alternator and with a 1976 internal shroud/air-guide unit, there is not enough room to allow the whole assembled fan housing/alternator unit into the main shroud. Notching the rear of one of the blades, the lower one, and then removing some blade material at the small opening of the shroud, allowed the whole unit to properly slide back into the 1974 2.7 liter motor's stock mounting location. All nuts and washers tightened and all wires, including ground strap with new nut properly positioned and tightened. The whole thing went back in with the modification suggested. Alex Ford
April 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to share your story. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Doug Harris Comments: I have a 1971-911 have installed a newer alternator with a built in regulator, the system is charging because I have a volt meter mounted in the car but the alternator light stays on. I know its something simple, any suggestions?

Doug
September 26, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I just ran into this issue the other day with another customer. I have a PDF of a Porsche Technical bulletin that talks about putting in a higher wattage bulb to assist with getting the lamp to go out. I have the link here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_alt_replace/Alternator.pdf - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jeff Comments: Great info - saved me a bunch of $$$ and time. Thanks.
May 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jack Comments: Hi Guys...Can you Help me Please....I have been told My Regulator is U/S Do i Have to Remove the engine to get the Alternator out....Mine is a 1989 Cabrio......My Haynes Manual seems to think I should Remove the Engine...Surely this is not Correct...My Alternator Differs from the one above, and has air Guides on the rear...
February 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, you do not have to remove the engine to replace your alternator. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
myporsche912 Comments: Can you add assembly instructions for an 87 alternator?
The wiring picture will be helfull too.

Thanks
September 4, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, we don't have that information at this time. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
kenstep2it Comments: Facing the alternator there was the big red cable and a little tiny cable on the right, then on the left a smaller cable which i assume is the ground. I put them back like i found them. I kept it on the charger overnight and all seems well now but i will take it to the autoparts place and let them check it out. thanks!
August 1, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kenstep2it Comments: Ok so I replaced my alternator and kept the battery disconnected the whole time. Got it all put back together, hooked up the battery which is brand new, and nothing. Put the battery on a charger and the driver side signal lights along with the key in ignition sound are on. Kindof nutty. What gives?
July 31, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The first thing I would check would be the actual condition of the battery. You can put a multi-tester across the terminals of the battery to check the voltage, and then you can also take it to most local auto parts stores where they can check the load that comes out of the battery. I would also check all of the wiring to the alternator too, in particular the big red cable and the ground strap that connects the alternator to the engine. A lot of people forget about the ground strap (I did once). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Walker1 Comments: Good Deal, I"ve Tried It the hard way, Damaging the finish
on the fan and the housing, After re-painting it's time to give it the correct method.
May 28, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sean Comments: I have the 2.7L engine and I just replaced the alternator and the fan and I cannot get the belt to tighten - whats goin gon? do I need a different belt now. I have shims but I will run out of shaft to get it to tighten?
sean_joseph_alden@yahoo.com
May 27, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The 911 fan belt can be very tricky. I wrote a detailed article about it here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_fan_belt/911_fan_belt.htm. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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