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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW E30 3 Series Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
Jared Fenton

Difficulty Level: 3
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

     This article is the one in a series that will be released in conjunction with Wayne's upcoming book, 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series.  The book will be 256 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 350+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book should be a staple in any 3-Series owner's collection.  See The Official Book Website for more details.  The book is due out in October 2005.  

[click to enlarge]

 

 

     In this continuing series of E30 suspension technical articles, I will focus on replacing the rear sway bar bushings. Over time these bushings swell due to heat and pressure, and eventually will start to erode and crack. If you hear any squeaking or clunking from the rear of the car when you go over dips or holes, chances are the bushings have worn and need replacement. The good news is that replacement is relatively easy and can be performed with hand tools in little more than an hour.

  The first step is to loosen the rear wheel lug bolts (but do not remove). Next, jack up the rear of the car on both sides and support the car with some quality jack stands. Keep in mind that you must jack the rear up from a good structural point on the car, such as a frame rail or a suspension carrier. Otherwise, you risk putting the jack right through the floor of the car. (I have seen this happen on a Porsche 914, and it’s not pretty). For those of you who are not familiar with jacking the car up, I highly recommend you read Wayne’s article on jacking up the E36. It does not apply to the E30, however it is a good reference guide.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Jacking_Up/E36-Jacking_Up.htm

  Once the car is up in the air and secured on the jack stands, remove the rear wheels. Behind the rotor/hub assembly, you will see the complete sway bar assembly attached to the rear trailing arms. The first step in restoring the bushings is to locate the suspension drop links. These are used to attach the sway bar to the trailing arms. If you look on the top the arms, you will see the mounting nut and bolt for the drop link. Remove the nuts on both drop links. Use an open-end wrench to hold the bolt, while you loosen and remove the nut on the end. Don’t try to remove the drop links from out of the bracket just yet. We need to remove the upper connection point. There is a cotter pin on the end of the sway bar that holds the drop link on. Cut the old cotter pin off and slide the drop link off the bar.

  Now, take some grease and lubricate the end of the sway bar. Now slide the new drop link into place and put the washer on the end. Once in place, install a new cotter pin and bend it over the sway bar to prevent it from coming out of the hole. Now slide the bottom of the drop link into the mounting bracket and re-install the long bolt and nut on the end. Use an open-end wrench to hold the nut while you torque the bolt to 50 ft./lbs.

  Now re-mount the wheels and snug up the lug bolts. Jack the car up again and remove the jack stands from under the car. Lastly, lower the car and tighten the lug bolts.

 And that’s it, you’re done!

   As always, if anyone has any questions about this or any other tech article, feel free to email me at jared@pelicanparts.com

 Cheers!

Comments and Suggestions:
E30HooliganComments: wow what a horrible write up, 87m491's comment was referring the bushings that secure the bar to the chassis, not pressing the bushings out of the end links, LOL. someone delete this write up as it's completely useless.
September 30, 2011
noteasyComments: The U-Shaped Vice Grip does not help...
The article makes it sound like it is easy, which it is NOT.
As of writing this, I only got on one rear sway drop link. MY hands are tired and I have given up for the day.
May 22, 2011
ErikComments: i just did mine. slid on with a drop of dish soap.
August 6, 2010
Lord DonningtonComments: My 1990 325i doesn't have the cotter pin and washer to retain the sway bar in the droplink. No hole in the sway bar tip to accomodate a cotter pin. What keeps the sway bar from sliding out of the droplink? which is does on the left side. Do I need a new droplink with new rubber bushing to retain the sway bar?
December 13, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You'd have to send me a photo for me to comment specifically on that? - Wayne at Pelican Parts
RocketComments: Apparently whoever wrote this article NEVER did this job, because the new drop link bushings will not just "slide" onto the sway bars. They are incredibly hard to get on. Come on gents, let's give ALL the details of these jobs, and thus the tricks as well. Happy motoring!
November 28, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Use a set of u-shaped vice grips to snap these on if it's difficult. It's all about having the right tool for the job that makes things easier. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
chuckComments: I'm not sure this is the right item, and I'm not sure just yet what about what's a drop link? I'm looking to replace the bushing that attaches the rear cross bar to the chassis. Is there a separate article on this? It's an 88 325 is model. Do I need special equip?
November 17, 2009
87m491Comments: Did I miss something? Looking for info on the swaybar bushing not the end links?
July 4, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi there. Yes, the swaybar bushings are not available separately - you must purchase the entire droplink with the bushings already installed. They are actually pretty cheap, and this is actually better than on other cars (like the Porsche 911 & 914), as the installation of the bushings into the droplinks can be very difficult without a big vice or press. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
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