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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW E30 3-Series Parking Brake Adjustment
Jared Fenton

Difficulty Level: 2
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

     This article is the one in a series that will be released in conjunction with Wayne's upcoming book, 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series.  The book will be 256 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 350+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book should be a staple in any 3-Series owner's collection.  See The Official Book Website for more details.  The book is due out in October 2005.  
 

     I don’t know if this happened to you or not, but did you ever park your car on a hill, only to slowly see it start rolling away after you come out of the store? Granted, this is a worst-case scenario, and how many people don’t put the car in gear while parked? Regardless, the parking brakes eventually wear down over time, causing them to become ineffective in holding the car when parked. In this tech article, I will go over the relatively easy steps involved in adjusting the parking brakes on the BMW E30 3 Series models from 1984-92. Keep in mind that this article is specific to cars with rear disc brakes. The 318i from 1984-86 uses rear drum brakes. The procedure for adjusting them is the same as well.

  Parking brakes work essentially like a drum style brake. There are two shoes mounted on the inside of the brake rotor. When you pull up on the handbrake, it drives the shoes outward, causing them to grip the inside of the brake rotor. Over time, friction wears the shoes down, causing them to not grip the inside of the rotor. The solution is to re-adjust the shoes so that they again come into contact with the rotor.

  Here’s how it is done. Start off by chocking the front wheels. This will keep the car from rolling when you jack up the rear wheels, which is the next step. For those of you not familiar with jacking up the rear end, I highly recommend you check out Wayne’s article on jacking up your BMW.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Jacking_Up/E36-Jacking_Up.htm

  Be sure to jack the car up on a structural member. Otherwise, you risk damaging the chassis. I have seen jacks go through floorboards on cars before. Also be sure to support the car on jack stands. NEVER rely on a jack to keep the car up in the air.

  Once jacked up, put the car in neutral, release the handbrake and pump the brakes a few times to seat the pads. Remove the rubber boot around the handbrake. You will now see two nuts in front of the lever. These nuts are used to adjust the parking brake. Slowly pull up on the handbrake until it clicks five times. Once it clicks five times, it is in the correct position to be adjusted.

  Now have a helper turn the rear wheels. The idea here is to turn the adjusting nuts until the rear wheels just stop turning. Be sure use turn each nut in equal turns until both wheels begin to drag and stop. Once they stop turning, release the handbrake and check that the wheels spin freely.

  Once they spin freely, Spray a little WD-40 over the parking brake mechanism. This will keep things nice and lubricated. Now re-install the rubber boot around the assembly and lower the car.

And that’s it, you’re done!

     Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all.  If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Cheers! 

Comments and Suggestions:
1991E30Comments: My 1991 e30 has the rear right side brake dragging it makes a really loud grinding sound when i drive it. Will adjusting the emergency break help this?
May 8, 2012
jarotComments: how would i install a new parking brake cable? i cant seem to figure it out
March 29, 2012
HalfComments: Your articles are great. I have an 84 325e and have replaced the timing belt, adjusted the valves, replaced valve cover and all manifold gaskets and replaced fuel injectors. Also fuel supply and return lines. I have a mystery leak of fluid on drivers side carpet. Feels like rad fluid. Any ideas?
January 20, 2012
RodComments: BMW 325i E30 1990. The "pegs" holding the handbrake shoes to the back plate have come out due to the holes rusting. I would welcome advice from readers who have had similar problems on how to repair without having to take off the hub and replace the back plate
December 30, 2011
JazzCatComments: Hi Jared:

I replaced all rotors and brake pads on a 96 328i. All went fine but now I can't get the hand brake to click up into a hold posiion. It just pulls up and drops.
October 11, 2011
ChuckComments: Are there rust resistant parking brake rotors for a 2007 BMW 328 coupe?
March 7, 2010
2E30s1E36Comments: These directions and the ones on the E36 page about adjusting the shoe internally through the lug hole involve turning the wheel making adjustments until you first start to feel drag on the wheel or until the wheel stops. One of my E30 has a limited slip diff, and since its preloaded quite a bit, the rear wheels basically turn together when the car is jacked up and I'm turning them by hand. This is a problem because once I get one of the cables the exact right tightness on one side, I can't do the other side because I can't tell the difference between resistance due to this particular wheel and just feeling the resistance of the other wheel through the read axle. The only way I can think of around this is to disconnect one of the halfshafts from the diff, but that is kind of a pain for just adjusting the handbrake. Is there a better way?
August 24, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I cannot think of a better way, except that you should be able to hear the scrapping of the brake shoes if they are engaged. You also might want to tighten them up until they are tight and then back them off a few turns until you are sure they are loose. Then repeat for the other side. Then, adjust the cable on your e-brake handle and test each wheel (car still up in the air). If stuck, then you're good. If not, then turn each of the little adjustment wheels a bit further. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
E-thirty fanComments: so i tightened up the e brake at the handle and i still have no brakes any suggestions?
August 21, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Take a look here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Ebrake_Adjustment/E36-Ebrake_Adjustment.htm- Wayne at Pelican Parts
beaker fanComments: is the procedure the same for a 1996 325 tds?
August 8, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The E36 procedure is located right here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Ebrake_Adjustment/E36-Ebrake_Adjustment.htm- Wayne at Pelican Parts
knows nothingComments: just replaced all the brakes, brake lines on 1987 325is. Heard a loud pop as we drove it into the garage for repair. Now: wheels rotate backward fine; but, only will go a short way forward and then freeze????? Any suggestions?
May 3, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, it does sound like there may be a broken parking brake spring or something like that. I'm thinking you need to take the rear brakes apart and check. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
  

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