you feeling a weird vibration from your car when you shift or accelerate? Is
the shifter rocking back and forth like it’s possessed? Are you hearing
and feeling a huge knocking noise when you drive? All these are a symptom of
old or broken transmission mounts. In this tech article I will go over the
steps involved with replacing the transmission mounts on the BMW E36 3
Series from 1992-99. Keep in mind that this article is specific to all E36 3
Series models. A lot of people have been asking me to do an article on this
subject, so here goes.
mounts have two primary functions in a car. One, they secure the
transmission to the vehicle’s chassis, and prevent the transmission from
crashing into the underside of the car when you accelerate. When you hit the
gas, the torsional forces of the mainshaft turning causes the transmission
to twist as it delivers power to the rear wheels. The transmission mounts
prevent this. Unfortunately, bolting the transmission direct to the chassis
also results in transmitting the vibration from the engine and transmission
all throughout the car. The solution is to mount the transmission to the
chassis using rubber mounts. The rubber acts as a damper, allowing the
transmission a certain amount of play, and keeps it from rattling you to
death as you drive.
first step in fixing the problem is to jack up the car as much as possible
so that we can access the tranny mounts. I recommend that you place the car
as lever as possible on four jack stands as this will help you greatly. If
you are not familiar with jacking up you car, I highly recommend you read
Wayne’s article on jacking up your BMW. Here is a link to the article.
the car firmly secured on jack stands, climb under the car and look at the
rear of the transmission, right where the driveshaft meets up with the
tranny. On either side, you will see two small rubber mounts securing the
tranny to the chassis. This is what we will be replacing.
first need to loosen the nuts that hold the mounts in place. There are two
nuts on the top of the mount and two on the bottom. Loosen all of these then
remove them. Now place a jack directly below the transmission casing and
place a piece of wood in between the jack and the tranny. This will help
distribute the weight of the tranny.
start jacking up the tranny very slowly. We want to jack it up just enough
so we can remove the mounts. USE EXTREME CAUTION when removing the mounts as
the tranny will be only supported by the jack. You can lose fingers here if
you are not careful. Once you have jacked the tranny high enough, remove the
take the new mounts and first place them into the crossmember attached to
the chassis. Line up the studs out of the top of the mounts with the
mounting holes on the transmission casing and slowly lower the jack until
the new mounts are supporting the weight of the transmission. Keep in mind
that it may take a few tries to get these lined up correctly.
the new mounts are bearing the load, thread new self-locking nuts onto the
top and bottom studs. It’s important to use new self-locking nuts as they
are designed to only be tightened once. If you re-use them, they can come
loose and possibly cause a huge disaster.
Once all the nuts are threaded on, torque them to 30 ft./lbs.
Now jack the car up again to remove the jack stands from all four
corners of the car, and lower it back down to the ground.
Well, there you have it - it's
really not too difficult at all. If you would like
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