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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Thermostat
Replacement

Difficulty Level: 3
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

     This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.  The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details. 

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     BMW cooling systems have been known for being troublesome for quite some time.  One of the principle areas of failure are the thermostat and water pump.  Overheating problems are common on these cars, and if your engine overheats, you may find yourself having to replace your head gasket, which is not cheap.

     Begin the process by gaining access to your thermostat.  This requires the removal of the fan and belts, as well as the removal of all coolant from the system.  See the following technical articles for instructions on how to get to this point:

     With all of your equipment removed, the front of your engine should resemble Figure 1, and you should see the black plastic thermostat housing.  Remove screws that attach the housing to the cylinder head.  Pull off the thermostat housing (Figure 2).  It may require just a little bit of force to remove if it's caked on there.  The thermostat can be pulled out of the head now (Figure 3 - shows the head removed from the car).  Figure 4 shows the backside of the thermostat.

     Install a new thermostat into the cylinder head using a new o-ring to seal it to the head (Figure 5).  The thermostat should fit snuggle into it's bore in the cylinder head.  Make sure that the o-ring is seated properly (Figure 6), and that the small vent hole or arrow faces up.  Use a new seal on the thermostat housing (Figure 7).  If your head has been damaged by corrosion and electrolysis (Figure 8), then you may want to add some black silicone sealant to the thermostat housing when you install it (Figure 9).  Figure 10 shows the thermostat housing remounted with an appropriate amount of squeeze-out from the black silicone.  Figure 11 shows the thermostat housing reattached to the head, and the flywheel sensor cable correctly routed around the housing.

     Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all.  If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Comments and Suggestions:
onlyonelukeComments: Hi, i have a BMW 318i 1993, when i start it while still parked the temperature guage shows normal and when i just drive it within 200meters the temp guage gooes to red. What could be the cause of this problem? Please i need your help.
April 26, 2012
kowboyComments: we have 1 1998 318I 4 door, the temp gauge stayed at normal but the car was smelling hot, you know like hot antifreeze, i replaced the thermostat and housing, no leaks, the water still gets hotter than hell, the top hose gets piping hot, the bottom hose stays cool. the tempguage finally went into the red, what could this be, one guy says it may be a cracked head, can anyone help. the cooling fan only comes on when the ac is on
March 14, 2012
Yakima JimComments: 2002 330 After seeing signs ofleaking coolant, the local BMW shop former dealer told me the water pump was leaking. They replaced the waterpump and thermostat. Now I have no heat for about 3-5 miles depending on outside temp until temp guage reaches normal, at which time the low coolant light comes on and the heat finally starts to work. Previously I had heat in about 1 mile. Did they screw something up? System pressure tests good 3 hr. Coolant level is good at filler cap.
March 8, 2012
fefui9901Comments: I have a 1997 BMW 528i and it is overheating. The water is not flowing to the radiator and is just not circulating.I really want to get back to driving this car. Please help.
March 6, 2012
yandiztComments: I've just replace thermostat for my E36 323i year of 1997, but I used 71 degree thermostat. What is the standard temperature? is it 92 degree? what if the consequence if I used below standard thermostat 71 degree?
February 11, 2012
MervyComments: HI Wayne
I have a 2004 BMW 318ti and when i drive a short distance
water is overflowing from the water bottle and it is hot.
How can i solve this problem
January 31, 2012
Happy PappyComments: Great pictures,
I have replaced the thermostat but I'm leaking coolant underneath now which is falling on the fan belt, not sure where its coming from. I have picked up the comment on the arrow of the thermostat and I did not check that is this important, do we really need a thermostat in my 1990 BMW?
The thermostat housing is very hot but temp gauge is around the half way mark
Thanks

Mike Pappas
January 21, 2012
GwenComments: I had my BMW 325XI thermostat replaced as well as the housing and sensor a year ago, it has gone bad again. How long should a new thermostat last?
January 18, 2012
ivanComments: reply to SB.....it sounds to me like a FSRfinal stage resistor is bad. search for that problem
December 22, 2011
SBComments: 12/9/11!!!!HELLO PLEASE HELP i have a 1998 528 i BMW... air blows out of the vents full blast when it wants to when the car is on or off yes on or off with the key not even in the ignition. anyone ever heard of this happening before please advise. thank you
December 10, 2011
RussouwComments: Hi Guys, my 2002 BMW 318i has an overheating problem and this normally happens during peak traffic when the car is moving slow. when i am driving constantly on an open highway the temperature remains normal. the coolant levels are normal. What might be the problem?
November 24, 2011
TonyComments: I have a 2004 BMW 318i Manual Sports which my son uses.The other day he got to his friend's house and the coolant warning light went on and the engine overheating.His friend's father found that the coolant tank had a crack in.This was replaced but then the radiator fan did not work and no water circulation.
They seem to think it is the thermostat that is blocking the water flow and are having another friend who is a BMW mechanic to remove the thermostat and let the car idol without it.I do not know if this is advisable.We live in South Africa.
My view is that it could be a water pump problem as well.I really do not know.Any ideas?
Tony
November 13, 2011
ahmedComments: hi every one
am having bmw 318i with over heat problem.radiator,fan,waterpump,engine cooler is fine but my car still having the same problem, any help plizz, thanx
November 5, 2011
mzjayComments: Coolant began to drip from behind the battery of my BMW 318ti. The heater still heat. Does the thermostat need replacing or just the hoses?
October 24, 2011
grease monkeyComments: Hi,I hav a 99' 323i E46 BMW,iv changed the thermostat,water pump,new head gasket,helicoiled the block and new radiator and upper coolant hose and its still overheating...really not sure what to do...any suggestions?
October 13, 2011
SweetnlowComments: I just had the thermostat replaced in my 1998 BMW Z3 1.9 by my husband. I downloaded your instructions on how to do that for him since he is not familiar with BMWs mostly TRUCKS! LOL

Anyway, it was a snap, thanks for the great information. However...the car is still running hot. Any suggestions on what I should do?
October 8, 2011
plugComments: 1995 525i does it have a coolant bleeder screw and if so where is it located?
September 2, 2011
countrygirlComments: Hello Everyone! I am new and stumbled upon your site. Your site has been extremely helpful. Thank you Tech articles and Everyone else for helping me with thermostat issues. Thanks again everyone! DDolin
August 22, 2011
KiKiComments: I was driving my 93 BMW 318is and the check engine light came on and then I saw my temp gauge going towards Hot. Coolant added this morning. Ran car about 13 minutes. Temp gauge went over to hot. Help...
July 29, 2011
1998M3dudeComments: Just replaced my thermostat and housing. I replaced old housing with Aluminum housing and was getting a small leak still. I put gasket sealant all around the surface of the housing and still had a leak. Replaced it with the old housing and put new gasket and sealant and still have a leak...Any advice?
June 28, 2011
BillMComments: Sorry, just saw a post from someone else asking the same question no arrow/bleed hole in thermostat. Mine is also a "Vernet" branded part, thought I would share. Thanks, Bill
May 10, 2011
BillMComments: Quick question - do all thermostats have an arrow or weep hole? I am installing an 80C in E36 M3 and don't see either?
Thank you, Bill
May 10, 2011
safiComments: Hi,
I have a BMW x5 2001, The coolent temp. is always law and the arrow sign is below the middle I just wonna know if there is a thermostat lower than 97 degree or there is a malfunction in the thermostat.
May 4, 2011
juanitoComments: I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY 97 328I CHECK ING LIGHT ON,CODE P1519 SAY CAMSHAFT POSISION,I REPLASED BUT THE LIGHT STILL ON . THE DISCRIPTION ON THE SCANER SAY IDLE SPEED CONTROL AUXILIAR MALFUNTION .
DO I NEED RETIMMING THE INGENNE
April 28, 2011
ReedComments: Hey, I just bought an aluminum thermostat housing that came off a 1992 non-vanos m50, will this work on my 1994 VANOS m50?

Thanks
April 19, 2011
AlexComments: Hi,
I have a 328i and was not able to loosen the fan clutch nutyes, I know it has left handed thread. I used all the recommended tricks except for the bmw fan tool, which I couldn't find anywhere. So, it was actually quicker and easier to remove the radiatorwithout removing the fan or the plastic shroud to get the clearance I needed for a ratchet, and my hand.
April 17, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you simply put "fan removal tool" into our search engine, it will come right up. Here's a direct link: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_TOLtol_pg9.htm#item58 - Wayne at Pelican Parts
fgsComments: Figure 6 comment points out the importance of putting the "arrow or bleed hole" at the uppermost point. There is no "arrow or bleed hole" in your photo and there is none on my 88C Vernet thermostat.
Should one drill a bleed hole or is this an error?
March 29, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure why there isn't an arrow or hole in the photo, but the replacement ones should have one, and it should point upwards. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
CarlosKComments: Hi, I own a BMW 316i E30. It had overheating problems so i did all the fixing new thermostat, new fan clutch, new water pump, new radiator, new sensor that goes into engine. Today I started the engine and after 2 minutes water temp gauge needle went to red. Obviosly engine was not hot, what can it be?. Thanks
March 21, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If there is an air bubble somewhere in the engine and water is not circulating to the heads, then you will get overheating problems like you have here. I would try bleeding the cooling system 3-4 times to make sure that you get all of the air out. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
NickComments: I have a '97 1.9L Z3 M44, build date 10/96. It currently has a plastic thermostat housing? Will it be possible to upgrade this to an aluminum housing part #11531722531?
February 27, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The information that I have on that part number seems to indicate that it's only for the six-cylinder engines, and not the four cylinders, so I don't think it would work. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
vecoComments: I have a i325 bmw and its overheating. I suspect that its the thermostat can I removed and leave the car without it?
February 13, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've heard of a few people removing the thermostat altogether. In general, I don't recommend it, as the car needs to get up to proper operating temperature as soon as possible. Removing the thermostat will cause the car to run cold for a long period of time. This would be especially painful in cold climates. I recommend simply replacing the thermostat with a good quality one that works. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BobbyTComments: Hi guys,
Thanks for the great write up! Quick question. My '99 328is is throwing an "insufficient coolant temp to operate in closed loop mode" code. I replaced the coolant temp sensor but the code hasn't cleared, and now the check engine light is coming on and off, usually on when very cold, and off when slightly warmer. Also, the car does not reach normal operating temp anymore based on the gauge and the heat is sometimes not so warm. At this point I'm thinking my T-Stat has to be stuck open. Any thoughts?
January 19, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would tend to agree with you on this - it sounds like your thermostat may be stuck open. I would check out the radiator hoses on your radiator to see if they are hot / warm when the car has been running for a while. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BenpComments: I have a e36 1993 325i. Temp gauge stays very consistant while driving and idle but when at idle the car stops blowing hot air almost immeadiatly. Is this just a bad thermostat?
January 18, 2011
cmsComments: a part house sold me the wrong thermostat.
i have a 99,323ic i installed a 192F 88.8C
i find out it should be 198F 92C for this model
what kind of problem will i get if i leave that part in
thank you...
November 22, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It will run just slightly cooler and I don't think it will cause any major problems for you. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
davebComments: found the problem. System had air. I put the cap back on before the restart. Should have left it off for the air to bleed... Running well now....
November 21, 2010
DavebComments: Put a new thermostat in E30 M3. Car is running hot, and does not appear that the thermostat is opening top of radiator is hot, bottom is not. Air in system or faulty new thermostat?
November 20, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the top of the radiator is hot, then the thermostat is working (both top and bottom would be cold if the thermostat was stuck closed). Sounds like there might be clogs in the radiator. Or, the radiator may be working fine (hot on top, cold on bottom is also normal as the coolant cools in the radiator itself). I would remove the radiator and flow test it and/or replace it if the car is running hot (if the car is running hot, then you probably have a clogged radiator and/or a bubble in your cooling system). - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SamirComments: I have BMW 1998 528i, the temp went way up while I was sitting idle, the minute I drove the temp came to normal. 6 months later the temp went up slightly while gasing the car, temp came down as soon as I drove. THe pump was changed 2 years ago when broke on the highway. any idea what it could be? I really do not trust driving on highway any longer.
November 12, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be a small leak in your cooling system that is causing it to lose pressure, and then may be creating an air bubble. I would start by rebleeding the cooling system and see if that fixes the problem. See the article in this section for details on how to do that. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
TonyM3Comments: o2 sensor was playing, all fixed now.
thanks
October 31, 2010
DavebComments: Figured it out. Needed to whack wrench with a mallet to break them free. Looks like the copper washer corroded a bit and froze it. Mistake I made was using a socket on it with constant pressure.... Goofy design, not sure why BMW ship with holes plugged....
October 31, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's done that way because not all the cars have a sensor in that area. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
davebComments: question. on the E30 M3, the thermostat ships with sensor holes plugged. the plugs seem impossible to remove. what am i missing and how do i get them out?
October 28, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure, if you need the sensor there, you should be able to remove the plugs. Maybe just use a bigger torque arm to get more leverage? - Wayne at Pelican Parts
TonyM3Comments: Hi, I have a 6 cylinder e36 320i sedan which starts and idles ok smoothly. The car bogs and loses power at low revs to the point where the car barely accelerates. You have to put the foot to the floor and then it starts to accelerate still not overly quickly. These problems are worse when the car is warming up, however even when the car is hot it still has significant flat spots at low revs.
I disconnect the AFM runs heaps better on low revs and when I put the foot down goes but not as it should, I think they saying its kind a Limp Mode and ECU adjust some constant fuel to prevent stalling when afm is disconnected
Things done since then as follows.
-New fuel pump & fuel filter $160
-New pressure regulator $120
-ignition coils from USA $160
- AFM swap
- Crank sensor check
- Cam sensor check

Things that i want to check next are: coolant temp sensor and oxygen sensor.
Can you please advise for solution, because it’s really giving me a hard time?
October 27, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention if you'd pulled any codes out of the ECU to see if the computer was giving any hints? - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
robComments: @mack

Overheating could be a problem with the gasket. If you take it into a place that does radiators they can do a test with a liquid which changes colors in the presence of exhaust fumes.
October 18, 2010
mackComments: could ongoing overheating be a head gasket issue? sounds like you've tackled everything else so far.
September 14, 2010
JimComments: Pelican Staff:

I am having an identical problem with my '83 320i that "Abz_009" is having. Have replaced radiator, pump, thermostat, flushed system. Still runs hot at idle whether im in neutral doing 70 or stop and go. Cools down at high revs. Ive also re-adjusted the heater valve so that now closes fully. These changes have marginally improved on the problem. Please let me know what you think

Jim
April 28, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like significant air bubbles in your cooling system that are still there. I would change up your coolant bleeding procedure. I found I had to try a few different things on my E36 to get it correct, see my article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Coolant_Flush/E36-Coolant-Flush.htm I'd bet you a dollar that there's a big ole air bubble in there somewhere that is causing heat pockets to occur. That's really the only thing if you've already replaced almost everything else. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Abz_009Comments: Hi I have a BMW 316i and the engine keeps overheating. Spent loads trying to correct but noone has been able to fix, replaced thermostat, biscus fan and bled the system no luck. Temp only reduces when the car is revved. My current mechanic believes all the new thermostats dont open quickly enough and i need an original part, i find that strange and think it might be something else. He refuses to budge on his opinion and is convinced its waterflow. I dont have much more to spend to help solve this so any help would be great. Any ideas what i can try next?
April 2, 2010
...billComments: Hi. 94 325iC. Classic radiator neck failure occurred. Luckily caught it 10 miles from home. Purchased radiator, tank, hoses, thermostat, etc. from Pelican. Flushed and installed everything with little drama. Used 50/50 bmw coolant, and was careful to bleed out air.
After two weeks, it takes longer and longer to reach operating temp temp needle sits below center for 10 min or so never did this pre-rad failure. Heat is pretty crummy and temp falls off during idle.
1. I believe I purchased an 88 degree thermostat. Is that too cold? My ambient is around 40-50F.
2. Could my thermostat be faulty?
3. Is there anything else that could be going on?

Thanks,
...bill
March 5, 2010
AustinComments: Hi,
I have a 92 325is and after the last run at my previous autocross the plastic radiator coupling burst causing coolant to spew everywhere. i linked it back up in an attempt to drive it home but to no avail as i had to pull over to a gas station because it popped off again and caused another spout of overheating. we replaced the radiator and the thermostat again the water pump isnt making any strange noises as far as we can tell. there doesn't seem to be anything at all pumping through the top coolant hose. Also i should mention there's no arrow on the thermostat to indicate direction it should be pointing. It just wont stop overheating no matter what we try, bled the system did a near perfect 50/50 coolant combo. any advise?
Please Please help
Many Thanks
January 22, 2010
JimComments: I have 1996 318ti, replaced the thermostat that was stuck open. Car ran cool before replacement and with some blower heat. Now it reaches operating temp, stays there for a while and then overheats. Plus I am getting no blower heat. now.
January 19, 2010
Gramps2Comments: Bought the thermostat from Pelican Parts for a 2004 BMW 330CI and got to the step to remove the fan and got stuck without the "fan removal tool". I come from a family of having to do for yourself and following in that tradition, made the tool out of a 1/8" x 1.5" steel strap. Cost me less than $10 and about 1 hour of drilling two 1/2" holes to go over the mounting bolts and some grinding. Fan nut popped loose like a charm. Got the job done in about two hours as the thermostat replacement was simple, removing stuff in the way took the time. The pictures and procedure at Pelican made it a diy project saving $$$ on labor and buying the part from them it was a perfect fit. Thx
January 19, 2010
BigCComments: Hi there, I'm looking at replacing the thermostat in my e46 32 shortly. Someone has said this can be done without draining the coolant first as mine was flushed a few months ago. How much coolant will spill out of the thermostat housing if it's not drained? Obviously going to top it up and bleed it afterward.
Many Thanks
January 7, 2010
HUGOCOLComments: Wayne, I also forgot to ask you if it is safe to remove the oxygen sensor that is blocking the engine block draining plug.
I wanted to take the coolant that is in the engine compartment but realized that this sensor was in the middle not sure why BMW fabricated this cars like that. For some reason my car has this plug right next to one oxygen sensor. I know that this part is a bit expensive and do not want to damage it.

Thanks,

HUGO
December 21, 2009
HUGOCOLComments: Thanks for replying so quickly Wayne. Your answer leads me to another question. This Vernet thermostat does not have an arrow to locate the part appropriately. I assume that the small indented dot is the reference point. Should this mark face up? The Thermostat installed on my car has an arrow facing down. I am not sure if the location really matters.
Thank you very much for your help. And thanks for sending me all my parts on time. Your site is the best on-line store I have found for BMW parts.
Thanks,
HUGO
December 21, 2009
HUGOCOLComments: Hi Wayne,
I recently bought your Vernet thermostat 92 degres for a E36 328i 1997and looks a little different than the one that is installed in my car. The top portion has a thin metal kind of brace not sure what the name is....I just wanted to ask you if there are different shapes and would not affect the functionality. I do not want to install everything and then have to take everything off because of the thermostat. I appreciate if you can provide more information or confirm that the part I bought through your site really works OK!!

Thanks in advance,

HUGO PLAZAS
December 19, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi there Hugo. I pulled up your order and then cross-checked it against the factory documentation we have here. The thermostat you ordered was 11-53-7-511-083-M164 and should fit all 328i cars with no problem. Throughout the years, it's common for parts to be redesigned, and sometimes they don't look *exactly* like the ones that were originally shipped with the car. In almost all the cases, the changes are a design improvement, most likely to address some flaw or defect that has been discovered since the car originally shipped off of the line. Hope this helps. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
kouroshComments: I have a 1999 E36 M3 . every time the weather gets cold check engine light comes one . I toke it to the shop they checked it with auto scanner .
Said fault code P0125
Definition:
Coolant temp is always low
Explanation:
The power train control module verifies that the engine is at a proper operating temperature.
Probable cause:
1- check coolant level
2- thermostat defective
3- ECT engine coolant temperature sensor defective.
Coolant level is good , so they told me I need to change thermostat and ECT sensor ..
Mr. Wayne PLEASE help me to solve this problem ?????? THANK U
kourosh_foroughi@sbcglobal.net
December 16, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi there. I would probably agree with them that the thermostat may need replacement. It may be stuck open, which means that the car has trouble warming up full, and is "leaking" fluid into the radiator, past the thermostat. Not a terribly huge problem, but annoying nonetheless. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
kbComments: Hey Wayne, right now I'm almost through this job and my engine is looking like Fig 2 of this DIY. How did you get the block all nice and clean like Figure 8??? what type of cleaning solvents? You use a metal brush? This stuff wont come off!!
December 14, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I cheated, sort of. The head was cracked, so it came off and went to the machine shop where they cleaned it and blasted it before they welded it. So, it does look a little artificially clean there. I would try a wire brush on a drill like I used on the top of the block. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BobComments: 87 325ci, with 130k miles, Is it common for the thermostate to stick open? My car never seems to warm up and the motor stays pretty cool unless i go on a long trip. Should i suspect the thermostate or is there another common cause for this? Thanks in advance! Bob
December 5, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yup, that sounds like it could be a stuck thermostat. You can check by feeling your radiator hoses when you first run the car. If they are hot / warm within a few minutes of driving, then the t-stat is probably stuck open. Better stuck open than closed! - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
rrrrobbyComments: Is there a specific sealant that is to be used for the thermostat housing or can some general-purpose silicone from Home Depot / Lowe's be used?
November 2, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Don't use the stuff from HD or Lowes, but instead get some good Permatex or similar engine sealant from your local auto parts store, and you should be fine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
lin Comments: yes hi we have a 318ti b.m.w. 1995 model our engine has twin cams the thermostat housing is a aluminum one and we been told they dont make them well sorry but its true anyway there are no pics how to remove the thermostat for our motor it has a sensor thingy in front of the thermostat housing can you help as we are not sure what to do in case we disturb that sensor we think it is in front please please help with pic if possible
October 22, 2009
DavefComments: repie to pelican staff. Thanks for you response guys but i have bleed the system about 30 times since new pump and rad...
replie to ZA, Thanks ZA but have now tryed this and no change.
P.S. Just noticed that when temp starts to rise electric radiator fan comes on but only for a short time not untill temp is back to normal, could this be the problem? running out of ideas now had this problem for a couple of months. Dave
October 18, 2009
ZAComments: DaveF
I used to have a similar problem. I found it to be electrical. Disconnect the battery for a while and then reconnect. It solved my problem , hope it solves yours.
October 16, 2009
DavefComments: Hi,
I have a 318ise 1999 E46, it has a overheating problem and losing coolant so i replaced the radiator with one off a 2004 model,replaced the water pump and found bits of plastic in engine from a earlier pump, and replaced water rail which is under the inlet manifold,someone had removed the thermostat from housing so left it as is,now after sitting in traffic for more than 4/5 mins the temp creeps up into the red until i put heater on full and it returns to normal in minuets.
Please help me sort this problem Thanks Dave
October 15, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Put the heater on full and then rebleed the system - I'm betting that you have a big air bubble in there. I've had to bleed my cars 3-4 times after doing water cooling system changes. - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
mshmboComments: Hi,
I have 320i 89 and I tried to pull off the Thermostat bu it hits the injectors feeding tube at its side from beneath
Please help me solve this
Many Thanks
July 2, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure what you mean, send me an email at wayne@pelicanparts.com with a photo...- Wayne at Pelican Parts

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