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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Clutch Slave
Cylinder Replacement

Difficulty Level: 3
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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[click to enlarge]

Figure
Figure 1

Figure
Figure 2

Figure
Figure 3

Figure
Figure 4

     The BMW 3-Series cars have a hydraulic clutch engagement system - there are no cables involved with the actuation of the clutch.  Although this actually creates a more reliable clutch system over time, there can be a failure or break-down of the system if the slave or master cylinder get old and begin to leak or fail.  A spongy feel to the clutch pedal, grinding of gears when shifting, long pedal travel, and hydraulic leaks under the car are all signs that one or more components of the system have failed.  The first place I like to start is the clutch slave cylinder, as it is easy and inexpensive to replace.

     Replacement of the slave cylinder is a snap.  Its location is easy to get to from underneath the car.  The slave cylinder is located on the left side of the transmission (Figure 1).  Two nuts fasten it to the transmission.  First, disconnect the hydraulic line from the cylinder.  Make sure you use a flare-nut wrench to remove the hose.  These hydraulic fittings have a tendency to strip if you don't use the proper tool.  Also, inspect the clutch slave line - you might want to replace it if it's bulging, or shows signs of cracking in the rubber.  Before you disconnect the line, make sure that you have a drip pan to catch the fluid that will leak out.

     Now, remove the two nuts that hold the cylinder to the transmission.  The slave cylinder should remove easily.  Install the new one and reattach the clutch fluid line.

     The system now needs to be bled.  I like to use the Motive Products Power Bleeder for this task (Figure 2).  For more information on using the Power Bleeder, see the Pelican Technical Article on Bleeding BMW Brakes.  Attach the power bleeder to the top of the master cylinder reservoir (Figure 3) and pump up the pressure in the bleeder.  Move to underneath the car and attach your bleeder hose to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder (Figure 4).  Let the system bleed out until no more bubbles appear.

     When finished, remove the bleeder system, lower the car, and try the clutch again.  The pedal should have a good feel to it, and the clutch should engage normally.  If you are still having problems, you should try replacing your clutch master cylinder next (tech article coming soon).

     Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all.  If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

   
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Comments and Suggestions:
KenComments: I have a 1992 BMW 325is that I am replacing the slave cylinder , I purchased the Motive Power Bleeder from Pelican . My question is , how much pressure to I build up before I turn the bleeder screw ?
June 7, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here are the instructions from them manufacturer. They state you should not exceed 20 psi:

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Power-Bleeder-Instructions_ep_50.html - Nick at Pelican Parts
Brendan 325ISComments: Hi.. I have a 325is... I replaced the Clutch with a Sachs Kit 15000km ago... and recently found my Clutch is very high.. So i replaced the Slave... The clutch is still very High.. Its like u have to almost leave the clutch Fully before it engages.. BUT.. its not riding at all... How can i bring my Clutch to Half or even Below halfClose to the Floor.. Thank You
June 4, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the slave and master are cylinder are the correct ones for the car, the only other option for a high clutch is a worn component. ie: clutch disc, pressure plate or flywheel. As the clutch componenets wear, the pressure plate travel increases, decreasing pedal feel. - Nick at Pelican Parts
jesseComments: the clutch goes up and down just fine, feels softer or easier than it did before but the actual pedal moves and I'm able to shift and drove on the highway, it just seems to be delayed and not releasing all the way
April 30, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. See my reply to your other comment. - Nick at Pelican Parts
jesseComments: so my car is being really wierd, after I let off the clutch it takes about 30 seconds or more to actually disengage, then it seems like when I'm driving it will engage itself, like I'll just be driving along and all of a sudden the RPM's go up and then down as if I had put the clutch in....
April 30, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a worn clutch. Inspect the condition of your clutch disc and pressure plate. - Nick at Pelican Parts
TraceComments: Hey, E, about your hydraulic line facing upward, I found it a lot easier to disconnect the line on the other end, where it mounts at the chassis. You just need an 11mm line wrench and a 14mm open end.
April 5, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip, this is a great help. - Nick at Pelican Parts
EComments: the hydraulic line is facing upward and it seems impossible to get to, help...
January 21, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are you referring to the line on the slave cylinder? It is on the upper side of slave cylinder, but not impossible to get to. - Nick at Pelican Parts
MitchComments: one day i was driving around and parked my 97 E36 and came back a couple hours later and my clutch would not work. i would press down the clutch but could not get my car in gear and when i tried to put it in reverse, it would grind. so i pulled out the old clutch and pressure plate and they were pretty much fused together. so i replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and the slave cylinder. i put it all back together and am having the exact same problem. when i press the pedal down, it dose not disengage the clutch. could this be because i may have put the pressure plate in the opposite way? someone told me about some sort of slave cylinder adjustment. is there such a thing? I need help. this is driving me crazy.
November 13, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: if the clutch is new and not releasing, inspect the clutch hydraulic system. Check that the slave cylinder is pressing on the clutch fork when the clutch pedal is depressed. - Nick at Pelican Parts
rickComments: hi i have a 92 325i . clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and dosent come back up i can pull it back up but nohting just up and down id it that the slave is just out? or they both should be bled?
September 4, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the clutch pedal goes tot he floor, inspect the clutch hydraulic system. Check that the slave cylinder is pressing on the clutch fork when the clutch pedal is depressed. - Nick at Pelican Parts
KirkComments: I'm going to replace the slave cylider on my 96 318ti. I wanted to know if I have to use a power bleeder or can I just do it the old fashion way and use a friend to pump the pedal? Thanks.
May 15, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The power bleeder will help, but I have been bleeding these systems manually for years with no problems. - Nick at Pelican Parts
brookComments: Hi Pelican parts/Wayne-hey it looks like you dedicate a lot of time to helping poeple out, can you help me. This is the background.I have replaced the engine in my 1990 325is instead using a US 1997 M3 motor and transmission. The clutch slave cylinder that I have installed is from a 1992 325. The clutch/pressure plate and throw out bearing are form a 94 M5. I am not getting clutch disengagement ie the clutch is not allowing me to change gears and feels as though it is always engaged. Are the slave cylinder internal dimensions vastly different hence causing my issue? or is there another likely cause. its a long Question and i thank you in advance for your time.
May 2, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: This a hard quesrtion to answer. My advice is to measure the throw of the pressure plate / fork, then use the slave cylinder with the correct travel. You can start by using the slave cylinder that matches the clutch components on you vehicle - Nick at Pelican Parts
IbdrftnComments: have a 1992 325i which the slave cylinder went out on me while I was sitting at a red light. I ended up replacing the master and slave but keep blowing out slave cylinders when I start getting pressure from bleeding the system. I checked my clutch fork and that thing isn't giving at all. I'm wondering if I have a throwout bearing problem and need to get a new clutch kit or did I cause damage to my clutch fork while trying to limp my car home? Any info would help me out greatly!
January 19, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try moving the clutch fork with a prybar. If it won't move, it could be seized. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Albert Comments: Woke this morning to 30 degrees outside, got into my 87 325ic and the clutch pedal went to the floor no pressure at all. checked the resevoir it was low but not much. started the car, lifted the peddal off the floor and pumped it a few times. it got enough pressure to drive to the store but the clutch barely grabes. the pedal is way low to the floor. How can you tell if its the clutch master or the slave cyclender?
January 14, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can check for fluid leaking from either one. This would be an indicator of pressure loss. Another way would be to press themaster cylinder while holding the slave cylinder still. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jonskiComments: my 92 318i,106 460 km,clutch works ok when driving but if stop at light or stop and go queue cant get any gear,pump pedal a few times and ok till stop again,had system pressure bled and no difference,clutch or slave cylinder ?
January 7, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can check for fluid leaking from either one. This would be an indicator of pressure loss. Another way would be to press themaster cylinder while holding the slave cylinder still. - Nick at Pelican Parts
mario mutz morelloComments: newbie here 84 318i my carpet is wet with brake fluid i removed underdash cover and turned the rubber end dust cover small factory hole slowly pushed pedal and fluid squirted out does this mean my master cylinder is done? thankx just a new guy
December 3, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have fluid on the floor, it will likely be the clutch master or brake master cylinder. Inspect then both, look for signs of fresh fluid dripping. - Nick at Pelican Parts
rjracin240Comments: Neighbor has a Z3, he has asked me to help him repair the clutch. Pedal goes straight to floor, looked underneath hood and did not see a resevoir for the master cylinder. Observed a hose go through firewall into area under dash. Owners manual had no instruction for servicing clutch. I spoke to a part salesman this afternoon for Pelican and he said the brake master cylinder resevoir feeds the clutch, he seemed very sketch y at first unfortunately and am not sure if this is correct.

Basically looking for instruction as to how to service clutch fluid, if there are any known failure points to look at under dash and is it possible for clutch fluid to go all the way down but still leave fluid in brake master cylinder?
December 2, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The clutch fluid is drawn from the master cylinder reservoir via a rubber braided hose. - Nick at Pelican Parts
bambelComments: My 93 325i is making a noise when I push the clutch pedal sounds like rings clinging but every gear is engaging like it should, it doesnt even grind my gears. So should I ignore it or should I find out what the problem is and fix it.
September 21, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You should try to find the source of the noise and repair it. You could be hearing a part that is about to fail. Better to repair it than be stranded and stuck with a tow bill. - Nick at Pelican Parts
rod azarComments: hi thanks for your artical ,i have 2000 Mroadster only 33000 mile . all origenal week end fun local drive .all
service on time . two night ago drive short and try to come back push the clutch click down stay so tow to local delare .they cal next day try to scoro to put new clutch .
i cal back no way , must be herolic .. then soon as i find out i am moveing the car .telling the master cylander has broken in side , who you trust .. you thanks
September 19, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would ask them to review the faulty component with you. Either part you mentioned could cause the issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts
jason268Comments: Question...what would happen if I took the slave cylinder off first and then took the hydraulic line off? It seems impossible to get a wrench up there to access the nut holding the hydraulic line to the slave.
September 3, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Other than it being hard to hold the slave cylinder still while loosening the line, nothing. You can do it that way. - Nick at Pelican Parts
joeComments: I ran into a bad problem, i read this DIY and many other stuff i researched on google because today in the morning when i got into my car and started the engine and put it in reverse to get out of my parking spot the the shifter popped back out to neutral and made a loud grinding noise, and i also cant put it into any other gear but these dont even go in. I can shift into every gear and reverse when the cars not on, im assuming its slave cylinder and low brake fluid and i gotta bleed the cylinder? The pedal does feel spongy and however the symptons in this DIY say just a spongy pedal, however my cars isnt even drivable. Is my problems something more severe than just a replacement slave cylinder and bleeding?
August 28, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the fluid level to start. If it is low, you may have a faulty component causing a leak. When you press on the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder should move the clutch fork. That is a quick way to test the function of your clutch hydraulic system. - Nick at Pelican Parts
ayam666Comments: Hi, How long would a slave cylinder last? I have replaced mine twice in 6 years. Driving is really minimum - less than 8,000km a year.
July 2, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's really hard to say. I would say on a well maintained vehicle you should get 100,000 miles of out one. - Nick at Pelican Parts
cobusComments: Hi have bmw 325i 1995 model my clutch go low when I lift the clutch pedal then the clutch is fine for a while.please can you tell what is the problem
June 24, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: you could have a faulty hydraulic component or a worn clutch. Check the hydraulic system first, as that is easiest.

Check the fluid level to start. If it is low, you may have a faulty component causing a leak. When you press on the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder should move the clutch fork. That is a quick way to test the function of your clutch hydraulic system. - Nick at Pelican Parts - Nick at Pelican Parts
JoeComments: follow up few weeks later now. clutch went out again twice, this time the res was way low id fill it up and pump clutch with everything closed and it would come back for a week or so, ive done this 3 times now so theres a leak somewhere but it aint under car i parked on a white board and next day clean as can be. every week its about a pint low any ideas where this fluid is going?
May 5, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you checked if the clutch master is leaking into the interior of your vehicle? I would inspect the master for leaks. - Nick at Pelican Parts
kino323iComments: Hi Pelican Staff, I have a 1999 232i. I park my car and when I came back to it the clutch pedal was stiff when pressing down on top of that no gears would engage. Car turn on fine and and the transmission did not showed symptoms of slipping. The only thing that I did notice was that for a while back it started to idle irregular, were there the RPMs would raise and then come down, it felt like a lost of power for a moment. please advise.
April 30, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a mechanical problem with the clutch components. I would check if the clutch fork is moving or if it jammed. you can try to move it manually with a lever.

The engine idle issue may be a separate problem. I would address as if it were. - Nick at Pelican Parts
joeComments: I also noticed that on my slave the bleeder valve is pointing down. i have not removed the slave its the way it was when i found it. i read somewhere that it should be pointing up and might be upside down but figure 1 picture in this article shows it pointing down unless the picture is upside down, please clerify. thanks
April 21, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The bleeder should be pointing down and slightly away from the transmission. - Nick at Pelican Parts
joeComments: Additional info: asked around a few mechanics i know cause this situation is almost supernatural. answers i got were not helpful. to clear a few things up the bleeder valve is not clogged, infact the whole valve was taken out of the car and then stupid but curious me drove the car around the block without the valve in the slave. shifted fine and no fluid leaked out at all. res is still where it was before trip. Im not understanding how im not getting any fluid discharge at the bleed valve no matter what i do. there has to be a clogged line or something but how will the slave operate properly if theres no fluid going through it or am i totally off here. my understanding is that this is a hydrolic devise no fluid means no operation correct? Im thinking the slave might be clogged up and its as simple as just removing it and replacing it but its working so i dont really want to do that unless its the problem. thanks
April 21, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There could be two things happening; you either have a restriction, or no fluid is reaching the master.

When trying to bleed, loosen the line at the master, check if fluid comes out, then work your way toward the slave.

if you suspect no fluid is getting to the master, check for a plugged hose or reservoir. - Nick at Pelican Parts
joeComments: Clutch went to floor easily with no resistance at all, ordered bressure bleeder from you guys and attempted to bleed the slave, when i loosen the bleed valve nothing comes out at all no air or fluid, clutch is now working and pedal is noce and stiff. however still unable to bleed? i can take bleed valve all the way out and nothing comes out with pressure bleeder hooked up and pumped to 15psi or with pressing the clutch??? is it possible something is clogged if so what? slave or lines going to it? thanks
April 20, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I answered your question follow up from 4/21. - Nick at Pelican Parts
RangerGressComments: The trick with bleeding the clutch is to get the slave cylinder upside down so the nipple is the highest point in the slave. You can either do this first, or you can go thru a quart of brake fluid, cuss a lot, and come back the next night, remove the slave, invert it and drive on.

When you remove the slave and invert it you have to rig up something to keep the piston shoved in the slave cyl. There's inexpensive tools around for this, a fixture sort of thing, or you can rig up something with a big C clamp or something.
April 19, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. This is a great tip and will surely help someone when dealing with a tricky bleeding situation. - Nick at Pelican Parts
+CountVladdy+Comments: QUOTE: Justin Comments: This has to be one of the most USELESS DIYs ever. It literally say's "bleed the clutch until its done." what good is that? how about telling me HOW to bleed the clutch....QUOTE

What a bloody rude thing to say. I've found the Pelican articles to be really helpful time and time again.
It clearly shows the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder in Fig.4. If you've bled brakes before then do the procedure in the same way. What's mysterious about that Justin? If you don't know how to bleed a hydraulic system then either do a search on it, bleeding brakes etc or ask politely. Why get arsey with the OP? Made yourself look like a tit. Politeness and manners will get you everywhere. You forget that others have extended their time & knowledge in putting such articles together. I have aircooled Volkswagens and have always done every type of work on these myself self taughtincluding welding and bodywork resto etc as well, but when it comes to the other half's e36 the info on these pages has been really helpful.
Rant over. Thanks again to Pelican & Wayne etc for the articles.

Dan
March 5, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks Dan. Some people just have limited amounts of patience. There are additional tech articles in this section on how to perform the bleeding process if one just looks there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
LotekComments: from the picture, i saw that you were using a tube connected from the bleeder valve into a containerbottle,what's the diamete of the tube?
March 1, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The inside diameter is 7mm. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
twistd6Comments: In your pics and on my 88 325iC the slave cylinder bleeder valve points down. Is this the proper way to orient it? How do you remove air bubbles sitting in the fluid chamber above the bleeder? Thx!
February 24, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Typically on hydraulic systems the bleeder valve *should* be located on the top of the cylinder. Indeed, this is so that you can bleed the cylinder and remove bubbles from the line. I'm not sure if yours is installed upside down (I'm not even sure if that is possible). I would remove it and see if you can orient it with the bleeder valve on top. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
E30istComments: Hey there, So my clutch has been a little sticky feeling coming back up from being depressed, today while buying new tires, the clutch pedal went to the floor and wouldn't come back up on it's own. They got it back up and told me it was something with the throwout arm. do I need a new clutch or could it be the master or slave cylinder? It's working again for now but I'm not sure how long their fix will last....Thanks again for what you do!
February 15, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't think it would be anything with your throw-out arm, that doesn't make sense to me. I would guess that either your master cylinder or slave cylinder are leaking and causing a loss of pressure. You might be able to fix the problem by simply bleeding the system, but if that doesn't work I would start by replacing the slave first, and then the master. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
durtyComments: Does the power brake bleeder do anything different than having someone inside the car pushing the clutch in to build up pressure? I did the 2 man procedure but the bleed nipple is on the bottom of the slave and I think because of this there are still air bubbles in the system.
January 26, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I had someone else ask about this recently. I think the bleed nipple needs to be on the top - it may be installed upside down in your car. I would remove it and check to see if it can be flipped around. As for bleeding, the two-man system is just as good, if not better than the power bleeder. I actually recommend bleeding with the power bleeder first, and then performing the two-man routine afterward. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
without a traceComments: I just installed a new slave cylinder on my 85 325e. All went well and clutch works however the clutch goes 75% to the floor before engaging. Then the clutch seems to operate. I'm wondering if thete is another issur or could air be trapped in the clutch master cylinder? When bleeding the system without a power bleeder should the clutch be pumped the same way you bleed brakes or should the clitch pedal be left alone and just let fluid drip? Thank you for the tech article. It has been a great help.
December 29, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Indeed, the power bleeder works best, but if you need to perform a manual bleed, then by all means, you should be pumping the pedal to remove the air from the system. This indeed might account for the pedal travel that you're experiencing. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
KahlinComments: I have changed my slave cylinder twice on my 96 M3 and once I get it installed I fill the reservoir, pump the clutch and then the slave starts leaking. My lines are tight and all, and I know for sure its coming from the slave. Any suggestions?
December 22, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you've changed it twice now, that means that a total of three have been leaking (one original one and two replacements). I would guess that it's leaking from where the line attaches to the cylinder. I would take a close look at this connection and/or wrap it in some teflon tape if you think it might be the culprit. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SquirrelComments: I have a 1985 325e bought a new slave cylinder and can not get it to bleed. Is fluid suppose to leak from the resevoir
line that attaches to the slave cylinder because nothing is leaking at all from the resevoir line .Think something may be stopped up.
November 13, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Make sure that you have ample fluid in the reservoir. It needs to be filled up all the way to the top. The fluid pickup for the clutch is located above the pickup for the brakes. The reasoning behind this is that you want your clutch to stop working first when you run out of fluid, not your brakes. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
fnittyComments: my 1995 325is is makes a grinding noise when i push the clutch in can u help? do you have any idea what that is.
November 4, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's probably something worn with the clutch (probably the throw out bearing), and it most likely needs to be replaced (clutch job). - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Chris Comments: I am frequently refilling the brake fluid with every use, practically. Is the fluid that passes through the slave cylinder brake fluid filled from the chamber right under the hood? I have a 1985 318.
November 1, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes it is. I would check that out right away - the fluid must be leaking out somewhere. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
robComments: need some input, i have no pressure what so ever pedal just goes down and comes right back up, no resistance at all .. pulled the slave it was soaked with fluid i depressed the rod on the slave. it moves very easy and makes a air sound like seal inside is blown... think this is the whole problem ,,,, drove fine the night before no problems what so ever
October 30, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yup, I agree - sounds like a bad slave cylinder that needs replacement. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
JustinComments: This has to be one of the most USELESS DIYs ever. It literally say's "bleed the clutch until its done." what good is that? how about telling me HOW to bleed the clutch....
October 30, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: As you can see in the article, the instructions on how to bleed refer to the article on bleeding brakes, which is nearly identical. See this link here for more information: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Bleeding_Brakes/Mult-Bleeding_Brakes.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts
bm318isComments: hi guys i have a 318is and i just replaced the clutch i put a whole 3 pice kit in bearing disc and pressure plate the old bearing was makin a lot of noise so i just decided to change the lot while i was at it. it's bk 2gether now and when it's running it's v hard to get gears no prob when car is not running..... didnt have this prob when old clutch was in there! anyone any idea what the problem cud be??????
October 19, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be that your clutch is not releasing all the way. The test for this is to put the car in neutral, press the clutch pedal in, wait 10 seconds and then put it into reverse. If the car grinds gears at this point, then your clutch is not releasing all the way and is "dragging". You might have to bleed the slave cylinder, or there might be something installed incorrectly with the clutch if this grinding happens. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
mikeComments: hey, on my 98 318ti, i have problems shifting into 2nd gear. once i release my clutch, it will grind and pop out of 2nd gear. it happened so fast, but i am pretty sure that it grinds even when your clutch is engaged and you are trying to put it into 2nd gear. its hard to tell, it seems to only have done it because i was stuck in traffic more the last 2 weeks. any ideas? its also only 2nd so far.
October 11, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you have a problem with your transmission, second gear is not engaging properly. Drain the fluid and check if there is metal, a sign of internal damage. - Nick at Pelican Parts
scottComments: Please help, I've changed out the slave and master cylinders, but when i push the clutch it still goes to the floor with ease and stays there, Ive bled it probably 15 times, removed the master and slave twice, and rebled, cheked the hoses, and put it all back together, Im so frustrated and lost now, cause its doing the same thing. pedel just goes to the floor and stays there. 1991 525i.
any response will be highly appreciated thanks.
September 11, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Well, if you've replaced everything and properly bled everything as well, the only other thing I can think of is that your throw-out arm is broken or damaged. Still, this is unlikely. When you're bleeding, there should be a steady flow of fluid coming out of the bleed nipped on the slave. I would use a pressure bleeder if you haven't done that previously. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
PureBlooDComments: r.harrsion891: Your Throwout bearing is failing, or I should say it has failed. I would recommend replacing your clutch disc and pressure plate, flywheel, and slave cylinder at the same time. You will soon find it impossible to move the clutch pedal at all.
September 8, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the help and input on this. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts
r.harrsion891Comments: I have a slightly different problem with my 318is. The clutch pedal is incredibly hard to push down. The bite point is millimeters off the floor, and at times I cannot engage 1st gear unless I cut the engine, engage the gear then start the engine again. Also I have noticed a grinding noise when the car is running and no gear is engaged.

Any ideas?
September 3, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I would guess that your clutch is on its way out and needs to be replaced. If you don't want to perform a full clutch job, you might just try bleeding the clutch master/slave system to see if that improves things. But I think you're clutch is probably the issue. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BrandonComments: Hey barry I am having the same issue where my clutch sticks to the floor. I can pull the pedal up with my hand and it will be ok for a bit. Did you ever resolve the issue and how?
August 26, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Typically this means that the clutch slave / master need to be bled and that there is air trapped somewhere inside the system. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SiComments: Bro,need your advice here my M40 E36 1991 4 cylinder which in Indonesia call 318i having sponging problem only once the road is jam..when I need to push and release the clutch pedal in many times..the sponging fells worse..and the engine rpm drop from 2000 to 800 once the clutch engage to the flywheel and engine rpm lazy to speed up..once in the 2nd gear..the car speed condition below 20Kmh..and not from stop position ... if in the high way free from jam the clutch slave feels OK to release the clutch from Flywheel..need your input ..thanks
July 15, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't really follow what you're saying here, but it sounds like you might want to bleed your hydraulic clutch system. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
My Old RocComments: What can you tell us about this "Clutch Delay Valve" I've been hearing about?
Does a 1992 325is have one?
June 19, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The clutch delay valve is a restrictor integrated into the slave cylinder that slows the engagement of the clutch so that you won't damage the clutch linig if you improperly dump the clutch at high rpm. The 1992 325is doesn't have a clutch delay valve as a separately replaceable part. I'm not sure if this model has one, but if it did, it would integral in the slave cylinder for the clutch. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
sparkybpComments: Title says "feeling spongy". My pedal does feel spongy but regardless it is still just as hard to depress. i do not suspect air in the system, the clutch has been replaced 20,000 km ago and it had the same feel right after replacementoem bmw sachs clutch kit. Also I get a squeak out of bellhousingthrow out bearing sliding on shaft? Is the shaft suposed to be lubricated with a certain grease when throw out bearing is installed? I'm afraid mechanic didn't use the right stuff for the temperatures in there.
April 17, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: BMW does nto specify a grease used on the throughout bearing contact points. However, usign a small amount of high temp grease is not a bad idea. If the nosie was not presetn before the clutch repair, I am sure the shop will look at it for you and help find the problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts
BarryComments: My car at time loses all clutch pressure, it is not leaking any fluid what so ever, I have replaced the cylinder at my clutch pedal, I have also installed a braided clutch line down at the gearbox and I have bleed the system over and over still no joy. This is what happens; At times I be driving and my clutch pedal will stick to the floor of the car as if it had no pressure to push its self back up again, I then give it a few seconds and pull the pedal up with my hand and the car is grand again it will drive for maybe 2 mile or 200 mile before it happens again, it seems to happen more when sitting In traffic. Any Help?? I am considering replacing the Slave cylinder at the gearbox to see will this get rid of the problem.
April 12, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The problem could be in your hydraulic system or the clutch could be worn. If the slave cylinder checks out OK, inspect the clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts
99m3Comments: Please get that master cyl guide going, at least for the newest e36s :p
February 26, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts
lawdogComments: My 97 bmw 318is clutch lost its resistant what could be the problem? I change the engine and have not atarted it yet.
January 20, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There could be a problem witht he clutch hydraulic system. Check operation of the master and slave cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts
HeinComments: Fantastic info guys, I done the job in 20 minutes flat and I have two left hands :-
No where can I find the same for master Cylider.
Thanks guys
December 29, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts
95//M3Comments: What size wrench removes the hydraulic line? About how much fluid does the clucth system take?

Thanks
December 28, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If I remember correctly, the line is either a 10 or 11 mm. Have 1 pint of fluid on hand for bleeding the system. - Nick at Pelican Parts
excited e36erComments: for "325is". i believe the piston is metal, a simple magnet antenna gets it out from the slave cylinder hole. that's how i did it but ended up taking the trans off anyway since the clutch fork was vertical which meant the clutch fork pin broke. got a new clutch fork pin and slave cylinder and everything is back in place. time to bleed the system and try it out. thanks for the article
October 1, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad to help. - Nick at Pelican Parts
aherstkeeperComments: i put in a new slave but there are still times i have no clutch until peddle is pumped. the clutch will engage allowing me to move but then will slip. other times the clutch will engage perfectly and the car will haul! prior to this problem it was hard to pull the shifter from 1st to 2nd while driving and is still an ongoing problem
September 8, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like it is time to replace you clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts
PatrickComments: My transmisson's slave cylinder exploded like comment above. After replacing everything, in the bell housing and the slave cylinder, I am having trouble getting the clutch pedal to have any feeling at all... it is either full off or full on. There is no resistance what ever. I tried the process of manual bleeding by pressing in clutch, opening bleeding nipple, closing bleeding nipple, and releasing clutch pedal.
August 22, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like there is still air in the system. I recommend using the Motive Brake Bleeder to bleed the clutch system, it works very well: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE36/POR_BE36_BRKwiz_pg2.htm#item4- Wayne at Pelican Parts
Lee GibsonComments: I had some issues when installing my slave cylinder, it was hard to line up the shaft in the cup of the bearing arm!
August 17, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: They can be a pain at times. Glad you got it worked out. - Nick at Pelican Parts
beybE30Comments: i can't wait for the clutch master cylinder replacement...
July 1, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts
325is Comments: I installed the master cylinder and bled the clutch the old fashion way and the piston from the slave cylinder shot in transmission. How do i take out the piston??? please help!!!!
June 24, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yikes, I think you're stuck taking out the transmission. This doesn't make too much sense regardless because the piston would push up against the throw-out bearing arm. Something else must be wrong in the transmission bell housing. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
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