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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Switch
Replacement

Difficulty Level: 2
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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     There may come a time when someone on the road motions to you about your brake lights not coming on.  The brake pedal switch (Figure 1) in both the E30 and E36 BMWs gets a lot of use, and has a tendency to fail once and a while.  Replacement is really easy, and should take only about 30 minutes maximum.

     The first step is to verify that your brake lamps are not working.  If you're by yourself, then wait until night time and back up against a brick wall.  You should see the reflection off of the wall when you step on the brakes - if you don't, then your switch is probably shot.  It's important to note that at least on some years, the BMW warning system that tells you when a lamp is out will not tell you if the switch is broken - you will have to figure it out for yourself.

     The first step is to gain access to the switch.  Remove the panel directly above the driver's side foot well.  This panel is secured by a few screws (Figure 2), and a few snaps as well (Figure 3).  In addition, you may have an electrical speaker unit attached to the panel.  Disconnect the harness (Figure 4) and pull the panel down (Figure 5).

     The brake switch is shown in Figure 6.  It's the rater large switch assembly that moves in conjunction with the brake pedal.  Remove the harness from the brake switch (Figure 7) and yank it out of it's bracket.  I found that I had to break the plastic housing of the switch in order to remove it (Figure 8).  That's perfectly okay, since you will be replacing it with a new one very soon anyways.

      To finish the job, simply install the new switch into place, and reconnect the wire harness.  Test the brake lights to make sure that they are working properly, and then reinstall the knee panel.

     Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all.  If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Reader Feedback:

     At the end, you instruct the readers to rip the switch out of the bracket. I just went through this today, and that is not the solution, though the solution is not obvious. In figure 1, you see the brake switch. You will notice that the switch 'button' is extended out further than it is once installed; it sort of ratchets in after installation, maybe as a self-adjusting measure. The way to remove the brake switch without breaking it is to first depress the brake pedal. Then use pliers to pull the switch button out; it should measure about 1/2" from the body of the switch. Finally, see the white collar in the picture (on my car it was red), pull that out, too; that will allow the plastic hooks that hold the switch in place to be depressed and to release the switch from its bracket. I was in pain and yelling foul words today as I figured this out. I hope the next person has an easier time!

   
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Comments and Suggestions:
KershComments: one question, the led is working but the others are not...bad connection???

Jason
May 23, 2012
KershComments: Wayne, thank you very much! I had the switch but could not figure out how to get it done. After reading your instructions, it took me 20 min.
Thanks again,
Jason
May 23, 2012
DGYComments: The OEM switch on my '96 is plastic that does not break easily and deforms quite a bit without breaking. It was pretty hard getting it out even with the break pedal depressed and the sliding lock pulled out. The bracket seemed to give a lot as I was trying to pull it out and was afraid the bracket would bend, so I used a screwdriver to break the tabs from the connector side of switch. Was a bit of a pain, but finally got it. Thanks for the good instructions, and thanks everyone for the helpful comments. Saved me a lot of trouble doing it myself right away!
-Dave
April 15, 2012
herfavComments: Brake lights are going out on my BMW e36 one at a time. It first started with the left side and has moved towards the center third brake light. I have tried new bulbs and replacing the brake light switch...could it be a fuse or wiring problem? anyone know how to fix it?
March 26, 2012
JeffComments: I get the brake curcuit failure message on the OBC screen but all my lights work properly. Could replacing this switch fix this error or does the working brake lights rule out this switch as the reason for the error message?
98 M3
March 25, 2012
grumblesComments: Well, working on my Mom's 98 taurus was worse, but this ranks up there. Easier IMHO just to break off one of the clips with a screwdriver. The old switch literally falls right out. What I did when inserting the new one was use my torque wrench handle and wedge it between the brake pedal and the seat. This depressed the pedal fully and I was able to extend the plunger. Working like a champ.
January 13, 2012
laura bellComments: on my 735il the dashboard reads brake light circuit whatever and i have replaced bulbs trie soldering the relay fuse as suggested and still it comes on what do i do?? its so frustrasting.
December 22, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's obviously a break in the circuit. You need to track down the electrical diagrams and trace back each component - sounds like it may be a wire harness issue. Sorry, that's the best I can do over the Internet without looking at the car.- Wayne at Pelican Parts
TysonComments: my 2004 BEEMOW 330D E46 Shows the brake lights are faulty on the cluster and when switching the car on, the brake lights remains on, and the steering conrols do not work.
December 2, 2011
328Comments: This works for "brake light circuit fail" and takes about 15mins. And you don't have to break it.

!!Note that in some cars like mine 328 -95 might be readiness for cruise control so the break pedal switch is different!!
November 9, 2011
ragsComments: My brake lights not working. The spoiler brake light is working. Im dont think it can be a switch. Any ideas?
October 10, 2011
Lucky LarryComments: My brake lights have been workighn intermittently. Dealer kindly replced left reatr brake bulb After I had pulled both rear light boxes and got all bulbs to light off a 12 v source- so it should not be bulbs or sockets. After 1 mile the Brake light circuit light came on again. Another repair guy said it looked like th plastic in rt rear socket holder had heated and that was the problem but it looks like al contacts are being made.
QUESTION: do you think it would be the switch if they come one sometimes and i think the right comes on wiothout the others or the high mount doesn't light but the others do.?n
September 26, 2011
ronnieComments: just replaced the brake switch. what a pain in the #$%. but worth saving a couple hundred bucks from dealer. thanks to these posts i didn't give up after starting, struggling, putting knee panel back on and setting appointment with dealer. these posts convinced me it was doable, so about 90 minutes later I now have brake lights again. After struggling for 30 minutes to disconnect the switch from the bracket, there is No question, easiest thing to do is to disconnect the bracket that houses the switch 1 bolt and use razor knife to carve off prongs holding switch in place. Smooth sailing reassembling everything. although being a double jointed monkey would have helped.
August 30, 2011
WassiComments: Please help. After installing a new centre third brake light, now the two tail brake lights do not work. Other tail lights work properly, as well as the third brake light. I read somewhere else that some vehicles have separate switches for the tails and the third brake lights. I am in an '89 325i. Thanks very much.
July 8, 2011
PatrickComments: Turn car on, push in break pedal, clip the white tip, pull of the red sleeve, then jiggle it with some pliers. Done.
June 14, 2011
dave146Comments: Just did my '97 328i. Breaking the switch did not work for me because I started to bend the bracket. Taking all the suggestions I:

1. Start the engine, push the brake pedal all the way in and wedge something against it. I used a scrap board and wedged it against the seat mount.
2. Use a flat blade screw driver to pop out the red sleeve a little bit.
3. Grab the red sleeve with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the sleeve out as far as it will go.
4. Once the sleeve is all the way out you can squeeze the locking tabs and the switch pops right out.

Thanks for this post and all the comments ... it was a big help.
May 23, 2011
brahm 123Comments: definnitely turn the engine on and push down the brake to pop it out. I broke off all the plasic down to the base for two hours and tried to remove it, but with the engine on the brake went down farther an it pop right out
March 28, 2011
kyleComments: i jusdt replaced my brake light switch and now they wont turn off at all ?? what should i do what would cause them to be on constantly thanks
January 20, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like the switch isn't seated all the way in it's mount, which may cause it to be "on" all the time. I would check the seating of the switch, and compare it to the photos in the article. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
mshift2Comments: Great write up. i JUST finished with my 99 M3. air duct wasn't really in the way. you should most definitely remove your seat, it's probably quicker to add that step due to the fact u can just get right down there and have the room to work. also, about the tabs holding the old piece in: push the break peddle all the way back and prop it with something i used my head.... it was already there then with a small flat head, extend the red sleeve all the way. push in one tab and pull toward that side and down. Then it just pops right out. also its not that difficult to remove the bracket, much safer than breaking.

"Break Light Failure" Bulb/housing
"break Light Circuit" Switch
October 28, 2010
LagComments: Just did this on my car.... much easier to just brake it and ever so slightly satisfying at the same time. As I'm sure I'll be doing this again in the future, I'll just start w/ my channel locks in hand.
October 16, 2010
bostongrunComments: This is Bostongrun again, exactly 13 months since I posted changing my stop light switch. The last few days, the dreaded "brake light circuit" message appeared. I incorrectly thought, it could not possible be the stop light switch because I just changed it a year ago, with an OEM switch from a BMW dealer. I wasted about three hours troubleshooting all the bulb sockets, wires etc but to no avail. I finally decided to change the stop light switch, even though all three lights worked. Sure enough it was the OEM forty dollar switch it didn't last any longer than the after market one, so save yourself twenty bucks.
In regard to this being a thirty minute job? Maybe to yank out the old one but it's a real bear to get the new one in without deforming the bracket because of the tight tolerences. Once again, I had to remove the 10mm bolt and install it into the bracket on the bench.
To get the bracket back in; contain the switch plunger with a zip tie and have a helper hold down the pedal from the back seat with a hockey stick or broomhandle. This will make sense once you see it.
I think the switchs only last a year because my wife constantly drives the car in stop and go traffic on clogged freeways constantly lugging the auto trans.
August 28, 2010
boostm3Comments: You guys who have done this DIY... How did you deal with the driver side heating duct which on my '99 m3 sits right in front of the brake pedal switch. I cant see how to remove it without breaking it...
July 24, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It must be a part that is on the later cars and not on the early ones. On some Porsches there is heating ductwork that needs to be removed - but on those cars, there is a small screw that you loosen and then the ductwork drops down. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
MattLComments: Thanks for the write-up, it was very useful. Just a note, the three screws holding the panel in place are all different:

1 The shiny screws goes in the hole in the bottom
2 The long black screw goes in the top-right hole
3 The shorter black screw goes in the top-left hole

I think I spent more time looking for the screw I dropped than actually replacing the switch.
February 7, 2010
use2windsurfComments: I agree with BOSTONGRUN. Definitely remove the 10mm bolt and remove the plate. I found the replacement switch at Autozone for less than $25 but you might have to search for other BMW models to find it. I have a 98 323is and they didnt show stock, but they found one under a different model,same exact switch. Also, after the new switch is installed, press the brake pedal with your hand and pull out the plunger ratcheting sound as far as you can, then release the brake. This will auto-adjust the plunger to work properly. When I installed it, there was an 1/8 gap between the plunger and the pedal/plate and my brakes stayed on all the time. Thanks for the great instruction and comments.
January 3, 2010
markoComments: After putting in the new switch I found that the switch plunger did not deploy and I had to remove the bracket with the switch to pull out the plunger and straighten the bracket that I may have bent it when taking out the old switch. I then found that the there was a gap between the brake pedal bracket and the switch plunger so that I had to put in a shim for it to work properly. Is there an adjustment for the bracket? I did not see one.
December 20, 2009
artikComments: I just removed the Brkt. holding the switch.
made removal and install easy
October 25, 2009
hoshyComments: PLEASE UPDATE THE MAIN TEXT OF THE ARTICLE SO PEOPLE DON'T MISS THE CORECT WAY TO REMOVE THE SWITCH!!!

And thank you very much for putting the article up in the first place :
October 5, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are many ways to remove the switch, I found it really easy on my car to simply snap it off. Your experience may vary, it's good that others have also added their own suggestions. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SirAutobahnComments: Hey you realy don't have to break-it! I've just change one and the secret was to let the engine run and then push the brake pedeal as far as possible. then push out the little plastic piston to the limite go ahead it won't break. at this point you still have your brake pedal completly pushed!! Now you push the red thing fowardwhite in this case and then you should be able to push the pin to release it.

And I was still able with a really stiff brake pedal so try this way before breaking anything.
September 10, 2009
CraigComments: Installation notes

1 The wiring connector has clips top and bottom. Squeeze from top to bottom to remove it.

2 Use an 18" piece of PVC pipe to wedge between the front seat and the brake peddle to depress the peddle so that you won't need to worry about keeping pressure off the switch as you work. This saved gobs of time.

3 Once there is no pressure on the switch its an easy job to push the red retaining ring forward with a small flat blade screwdriver.

4 With the red retaining ring forward, light pressure on the left side of the integrated clip on the back side of the metal bracket pops the switch out without the necessity of breaking it and with little effort.

5 With the new switch securely clipped in place, remove the PVC pipe which will depress the switch and push the red locking ring into place at the same time. Reconfirm the switch is secure in its bracket and replace the wire connector
July 31, 2009
bostongrunComments: I want to offer a suggestion; be careful removing and installing the brake light switch especially when ripping out the old switch because you can twist the brake light switch holding bracket. If you do so you will find its almost impossible to install the new switch unless you remove the bracket it's mounted with just one ten millimeter bolt.

What should have been a half chore turned into a two hour ordeal due to a twisted mounting bracket. The tolerances are tight so the the switch does not fall out so when it's distorted you can't get it back in without taking it out straightening it out in a vice and installing the switch out of the car in to the bracket and putting it back on the on the bracket.

PS The reason I had to replace my brake light switch was because my car was stuck in PARK. The selector was frozen in PARK because on the four pronged switch two prongs go to the transmission module. If that side of the switch fails the solenoid that blocks the shift linkage wont retract so you are stuck until you fix the brake light switch. FYI failure on the transmission side of the brake light switch does not give a message on the computer.

You can do a temporary fix to get the car home by pulling the gear shift lever off straight up and hard then pry up the trim plate to get at the ATM linkage. Turn on the ignition to activate the solenoid, move the selector then use a very thin piece of metal razor blade to keep the plunger in so you can get it past the Neutral indent. Just keep it in drive until you get it in your driveway.
July 19, 2009
pomComments: hi got prob with brake light on my 1990 bmw 320i,its still working but keeps sticking on and looks like me a crap driver on me brakes all the time,lol,yep looks like switch might have had it big time after me trying to remove it upside down for half hour with me screwdriver,do you think this sounds like the problem
April 28, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, this switch is basically underdesigned and a lot of electrical current passes through it, gumming up the contacts over time. To get the old one out, just take some big pliers and grab it and break it out of the bracket. The new one slips in there - should be a 10 minute job (if you've done it before). - Wayne at Pelican Parts
JasonComments: Good article, Thank you reader for the last comment !
April 18, 2009

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