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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Belt
Replacement

Difficulty Level: 2
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

     This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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[click to enlarge]

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Figure 1

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Figure 2

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Figure 3

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Figure 4

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Figure 5

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Figure 6

     One of the routine maintenance items that you should perform on your BMW is the checking and replacement of your accessory drive belts.  The belts are driven off of the crankshaft and power accessories such as the water pump, power steering pump, alternator and air conditioning compressor.  There are typically two belts on the car - one that powers the air conditioning compressor and another that powers everything else.  Both should be checked periodically (every 3,000 miles, or when you change your oil), and particular attention should be paid to the main belt.  The car can run fine without the air conditioning belt installed.

     Some of the early E30 cars use a standard v-belt design, and some of the later cars use what is known as a poly-ribbed belt (having many channels or ribs on the underside of the belt).  The poly-ribbed belt setup utilizes a spring-loaded belt tensioner pulley that provides the proper tension for the belt at all times, making adjustment unnecessary. The traditional style v-belts need to be tensioned using standard types of clamps and tensioners.

     When inspecting your belts, the one thing that you want to look for is cracks (yellow arrow - Figure 1).  If you see any cracks at all, you should replace your belts.  The cracks will usually occur on the inside of the belt (the surface that typically rides on the surface of the pulley).  With the poly-ribbed belts, this is the grooved surface.  With the v-belts, this is the surfaces on the legs of the 'V'.

     With the poly-ribbed belts, replacement is a snap.  The tensioners that hold the belt tight can be easily released using a socket and or 8 mm hex tool.  Different tensioners turn different directions, so you may have to rotate the tensioner clockwise or counter-clockwise depending upon your particular car.  The description of this process is one of those things that is difficult to describe, but very easy to do.  First, pry off the small plastic cap that covers the tensioner (green arrow Figure 1).  Then, place your tool into the tensioner and try rotating clockwise or counter-clockwise - will become immediately apparent how the tensioner releases the belt (Figure 2 and Figure 3).

     Removal of the two belts is easy - you do not have to remove the fan.  Simply release the tension on the belt from the tensioner, and then the belt should simply slide off.  Release the tension, and then you should be able to unwind the belt from the engine.  The belt should be able to be maneuvered around and through the fan - you do not need to remove the fan to swap out any of the belts (Figure 4).

     It is important to note that if your BMW has air conditioning, you will need to remove this belt first, as it typically blocks the other belt.  Another tip - if the belt is worn, simply snip it with some large tin cutters and pull it out of the car, after you have released the tension on it.

     Installation of the new belt is easy.  Simply slide on most of the new belt onto the pulleys, release the tension on the tensioner, and slide the belt onto the tensioner.  Check to make sure that the belt is securely seated in all of the pulleys.  Verify that the ribbed portion of the belt is set against the crankshaft pulley.  The proper orientation of the belt is shown in Figure 5.

     Replace any plastic caps that you may have removed from the front of the tensioner pulleys.  Now, start the car and peek in at the belts.  Verify that they are turning smoothly on all of the pulleys.

     For engines with the older-style v-belts, the procedure is nearly identical, except for the tensioning.  The alternator is mounted on a bracket that rotates and is used to keep tension on the belt.  In addition, there is a small rack-and-pinion device on this bracket that allows you to crank up the tension on the belt (Figure 6).  The first step in setting or releasing tension is to release the nut on the back of the bracket that keeps the whole assembly secure.  Do not attempt to turn the geared bolt without first releasing this nut on the rear - you will most likely damage the bracket.  With the nut released, you can now turn the geared bolt counter-clockwise, releasing tension on the belt.  Belt replacement is nearly identical to the poly-ribbed belts.

     Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all.  If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

   
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Comments and Suggestions:
BrittanyComments: I just replaced the alternator on my '93 325IS. After starting it up, I heard a whining noise so I took a look and my belt slips off just slightly. 4 ribs on the pulley, 2 ribs slipping off towards the alternator. I resat the belt, started it back up, and have the same problem, whining and belt slippage... What did I do wrong?
April 15, 2012
megatronComments: on my BMW 318 i have a medal hex screw that is stripped. It wont turn ive tried all day. I just need to put my belt back on. HELP!
March 7, 2012
SorinComments: In Figure 5, right in the center of the picture, there is a wheel that looks like it connects to two belts at once. The serpentine belt is the interior belt, and the A/C belt is the outer belt.

My car is a 95, but has a 92 engine in it. The wheel only connects to ONE belt, the serpentine, and has no outer area on which a 2nd belt would fit. I do have a compressor and tension wheel, and they look to match what is in Figure 5 on the bottom left, but where the A/C belt would have a 3rd wheel that it wraps around, right in the center of the picture, there is nothing but a half-length wheel that spins the serpentine belt.

Can you point me to the right part to get a double-wheel that will spin both belts? I'll also need to get an A/C belt, obviously, but that I can find on my own. But I don't know what that double pulley wheel is called, to search for it.
December 28, 2011
hughbeeComments: how to get fan belt back on 2001 740i? do have to take fan out? which is tension release nut?
December 13, 2011
Fusion 411Comments: Katrina, thank you for your comments on July 24, 2011 about replacing the belts on a 318i! I have a 1997 BMW 318i, and the cooling fan went out so I decided to replace the belts at the same time as I installed a new fan. The belts were just like you said. First off is the crankshaft/AC belt. The tensioner for the power steering/alternator belt is the lower one of the two small smooth pulleys for that belt. You will need a 16mm socket to rotate the tensioner counterclockwise. Put the belt on and then rotate the tensioner counterclockwise use a glove or watch your knuckles until you can get the belt around the last pulley top one then let go. It's automatic! Put the AC belt on next. You will need a No. 10 hex wrench a local auto parts store had one in a pack of 7. With the hex wrench in the matching hole in the tensioner pulley, twist counterclockwise until the tension is correct 1/4" per foot; or 1/8" per 6" of free belt, also feel it before you begin, then with your second hand use a socket to tighten the set screw that locks the pulley in place. Replacing the fan was easy. There were several things to take off shroud, air tube, and bracket, but no big deal. The hardest thing was figuring out how to unplug the electrical contact a combination of squeeze and pull. Oh, if you take the shroud and fan off first, it gives you lots of room for changing the belts.
November 25, 2011
zachComments: i need some help, I have a 95' 318ti and it has this awful loud high pitched squeal, I bought the car with it like this thinking that it was a belt or a pulley and it sounds like its comming from the tensioner pulley next to the alternator, first i replaced the lower tensioner pulley and the squeal stopped for 5 mins and then started again, then i replaced my hydraulic tensioner and it still squealed then i replaced the upper tensioner pulley that is next to the alternator and it still squeals but not as loud, It does not squeal until i get the car up to about 2000rpm, my belt seems pretty new and it does not slip, im really sick of hearing the squeal and its really obnoxious and im out of ideas on what it could be, if you have any idea or if im doing something wrong please tell me, i will put a picture up of what i have in case i have something wrong and im not seeing it, thanks
October 12, 2011
joeComments: Is there a way to adjust the tention on the serpentine belt on the 2006 325xi?
September 23, 2011
JimmyComments: I bought a Gates belt from Oreilly Auto Parts, the it is a 1569mm, smaller than your 1555 belt that you sell. I have purchased alot of parts from your store, but this belt doesn't even fit correctly on my tensioner and going somewhere else must of been a mistake lol. I'm assuming the belt is slipping for that reason and even though they charged $35 for the belt they refuse to refund since its used and I'm pretty dang sure its the wrong size.
September 19, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes indeed, that does sounds like it's about 12mm too long, that would indeed cause it to slip. $35 for the belt, I think we sell it for $15 or so... - Wayne at Pelican Parts
FIXComments: Thanks for this write-up! Just changed the drive and a/c belts in my 1995 325i, pretty easy stuff. While you probably don't have to take the fan off to do this job, I found it much easier without the fan so I wouldn't have to wrestle with it while getting the new belts on - I didn't have to get under the car, plus it gave me an excuse to use your fan pulley holder again!

On my car, the a/c tensioner pulley took an 8mm hex bit and the main belt tensioner pulley took a 16mm socket. I didn't have a 16mm, so I used a 5/8" socket without any problems.

One small question though - in my excitement/haste of putting everything back together, I forgot to put the dust cap back on the a/c tensioner pulley. The main belt tensioner pulley never had a dust cover. Is there any harm in driving without the dust covers? They don't seem very air/water tight anyway.
September 11, 2011
RemitAdviceComments: So I messed up: I tried loosening the tensioner with the rack and pinion nut BEFORE loosening the little nut in front. Not sure if I've damaged the bracket or not...this is the a/c belt btw...worst case scenario....what do i need to do to fix? Replace the bracket??
September 8, 2011
PattonComments: Thanks, I had a belt slipping on my 87 e30 with the V style belts. This showed me what I need to look for to tighten. Thanks
August 20, 2011
sircasComments: I have a 1988 M3 BMW. I am replacing the drive belt. I can not find the A/C compressor belt tensioner. I have loosen the bottom bolt that swivels the A/C compressor, but no movement. What else is there to loosen to swivel the A/C compressor. Alt & Powersteering both uses the Watch Bar with a adjuster bolt!
August 17, 2011
GmanComments: Excellent site, just used available info to change belts on my daughters '95 318Ti. We are in New Zealand and when I went to purchase belts they were addament it had 3 and only believed me it had 2 when I insisted they take a look.
Easy job with those 2 tensioners so easy to release. Thanks all especially 'Katrina', we had exactly the same set-up as yours.
August 13, 2011
KikeComments: Hi i appreciate the help this site has given me in other problems but i'm a bit stuck here i want to replace my a/c belt on my 318i but i cant find the rack-and-pinion to loosen up the tension i know you mentioned it but im a beginner and i can't take it to a shop due to me making a deal that if i can learn to fix it i can keep it
August 9, 2011
ChrisComments: I bought an 87 325i. there was no a/c belt on the car and I have been trying to put one on for much longer than it should take. There is no way the belt sold to me is going on this set up. I am wondering if the bracketing is on correctly as there is very little adjustment on the compresser. Does anyone have a diagram or any words of wisdom for me?

thank you,
Chris
August 8, 2011
KatrinaComments: My boyfriend and I replaced the drive belts on my 1996 BMW 318 IS. We used this site for directions as this was our first attempt ever at replacing drive belts. Neither one of us is terribly adept at fixing cars, so this post gave us the confidence to take on the project.
First we moved the fan shroud just a black plastic cover to free up a couple more inches of space. We made a diagram of how the belt wrapped around the pulleys in detail
Removing the ac belt was such a cinch. It was fairly obvious which pulley was the tensioner. It was the smallest one with a black-gray plastic cap that we removed. It also has a smooth outer edge, unlike the other pulleys that are larger and ribbed. A small twist counter clockwise with a 13mm socket did the trick. However, the serpentine belt was trickier. There were two pulleys that both were identical as tensioner pulleys. However, it turned out to be the pulley attached to what I believe is the alternator. This required more strength. He released the tensioner and I quickly went in and pulled the belt off. It was different from the ac belt that you didn't loosen a bolt, you had to pull back to release the tension on the belts. I think we used 16 or 18mm socket on this one with a torque wrench to create more give. Then just put on the belts, and the rest was a snap! Good luck! Thanks for the confidence boost Pelican Parts! Parts were $50, mechanic wanted to $270 to fix. This job took us an hour with a some setbacks as we had no prior experience. Next time 15 minute job hands down!
July 24, 2011
HachComments: why cant i find out what size belts my bmw 320i 1995 takes..
June 22, 2011
kchangComments: Do you guys have a book out that covers 5 series?
1987 528E
*does this 3 series book pertain to the 5?
June 16, 2011
kchangComments: I'm glad i found this link on here...I shop for all my 87 528E parts here...
I spent this early evening trying to figure out how to get more slack on the pulley's to get the belts on! I've already released all the tension from the rack and pinion type from the compressor and alternator...

So tomorrow i'll try and release the tensioner? hopefully I can find it now that I know what i'm looking for!
* so just pry off that cover and use possibly a 8mm Hex

thanks again
June 16, 2011
bamatunzComments: Thanks again for the write up! I thought I'd post the result of a previous owner that had destroyed the teeth on 2 out of 3 of the rack and pinion tensioners on my E34 535i ...you can see where the teeth were grinded in a circular pattern...obviously where someone did NOT release the lock nut on the back of the mount before attempting to tighten them...which is CLEARLY described in the tiny owners manual in the glove box-DOH!

http://www.searchrealestatehomesforsale.com/tensioner_worn_teeth.jpg

And both of them:
http://www.searchrealestatehomesforsale.com/both_tensioners_worn.jpg

Lucky for me the drive belt was not replaced by him, so the mount was in tact.
June 4, 2011
TraikunComments: I have an 85 E30 that I'm doing the timing belt on. I'm stuck on the tensioner for the power steering pump. I've loosened every single bolt that I can find, and the tensioner will not loosen it. I've tried clockwise and counter clockwise, and the tensioner gear just seems to spin in place. It's almost as though the bolt holding it doesn't fill the space, and the gear pushes out of the way. Is there something I've missed? How many mounting bolts do I need to loosen?
June 4, 2011
bmwracerComments: I finally changed out the tensioner pulley... And with no drama.

The bolt #10 in the image I posted previously for the pulley IS a standard right-hand thread.

Whew. :
April 21, 2011
bmwracerComments: I want to just change the pulley on the hydraulic tensioner and not the entire tensioner assembly.

How do I loosen the hex bolt #10 in the image to remove the pulley?

Does the hex bolt have the standard right-hand thread clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen or is it a left-hand thread?

When I try to loosen the hex bolt counterclockwise the entire tensioner assembly moves as well and I don't want to really crank on it for fear of damaging the tensioner by over-compressing it.

Do I have to use something to keep the tensioner assembly from moving or do I not have to worry about over-compressing the tensioner?

April 5, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm pretty sure you can just crank on it counter clockwise and it will come off. If you're unsure, then you might consider removing the tensioner from the engine, and then removing the wheel while it's secured in a vice on your workbench. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Ruben7Comments: Hello there. I have a 1993 318i. Today my car overheated and the coolant reservoir started releasing vapor, at the same time, my steering got really hard to turn at low speeds. I went to check the engine and 1 small belt was hanging freely by a single pulley, it came right off, not broken or anything.

There are 3 belts in total right? The long main belt, then another for the water pump/radiator fan, and the last one for the A/C, right? I ask because I only count 2, I'm missing the one that turns the radiator fan. I'm guessing it snapped and I lost it somewhere while driving.
March 28, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There was a major change for cars in 12/93, I want to make sure that we're talking about the same thing. I'm going to copy this question over to the forums, if you can post a photo of the front of your engine, then that would help confirm what you have.- Wayne at Pelican Parts
chrisComments: Hi, great website.

I get this whirring/frequency type noise when i start the car, it doesnt seem to get louder or change pitch when driving. also it goes away in about 30s-1m of warming up the car. could this be the AC belt? thank you

sorry i should add that its a 97 328is
March 22, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's nearly impossible to diagnose over the Internet, but if you think it might be the AC or the other belt, you can remove it and run the car for a little bit to check - Wayne at Pelican Parts
freddyComments: My 2004 BMW 325Xi is making a chirping noise and I'm not sure whether it is a pulley or the belt? because the noise is louder when I'm parked and it softens when I'm driving. What should I do?
March 20, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You might want to try spraying some auto parts store belt dressing on the belt and see if that makes the noise go away. If yes, it's the belt. If no, then it's most likely a pulley or bearing from one of your devices on the engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
IshmaelComments: I have a 99 e46 and recently on startup i heard a strange screeching/squeeling noise under the hood. i couldnt identify the issue. the noise got louder wit applied gas. I drive forward a few feet and heard a loud lash in the engine which turned out to me the Protection Cap for the Drive Belt Deflection Pully off and on the floor.

Unfortunately on reverse i rolled over the cap and broke it. Shockingly i throw water in the area the noise was coming from and the noise went away i guess until the belts were dry again.

Checked my Coolant and noticed it was extremely low so i topped it up and preceeded to the mechanic wher i discovered that all the coolant had "Poured out".

The mechanic informed me that the Coolant Expansion tank was leaking the coolant and the noise that i was getting not at the time when i was at the shop, that it is the belts that need changing and the tensioner.

I also discovered that i had an oil leak from the valve cover gasket which MAY have leaked onto the belts.

I am considering DIY for these fixes as his price just for labor alone was rediculous. My main question is, for the noise issue, would it be as simple as replacing the Cap that fell off and how would i know if i really need to change the tensioner?

What is the best order to do these task, cuz it seems like i would be in the hood all day if i choose to DIY. I do street parking unfortunately!!
March 15, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Lots of stuff here. I can't comment specifically on how long it would take, as I'm not fully aware of your skill level. However, simply replacing the dust cap on the idler pulley will not make the noise go away. It sounds like it's a failing bearing, and you need to spray some WD-40 or similar substance in there to find the source of the squeeling. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
RmanComments: It was actually easy. I needed at 18 in breaker bar and it made the process a breeze change the 2 pulleys and the belt in 30 minutes... Tools needed, T-55 torx drive, E-14 torx socket, breaker bar, 16mm socket and ratchet.....
March 15, 2011
rmanComments: Hello, how do you release the tensioner on an 325i E90 3L. There is a torx 55 on the tensioner and if you remove the pulley cover there is a T-50 I think..... The thing wont budge using the T-55 which is right next to the main bolt that attaches the tensioner to the block.
March 8, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, I'll have to admit I have limited experience so far with the modern E90 cars... - Wayne at Pelican Parts
MythinielComments: Isn't this site useful?

I'm considering replacing my partners V-belt on her 1991 E36 318i M40 since it's started squealing, but I don't know whether or not it's the tensioner - Did the M40 have a spring loaded tensioner?
February 18, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: That engine should have the rack-and-pinion style tensioner shown in Figure 6 above. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
MikeComments: This 'how to' uses an 8 mm hex on the tension pulley, some other writeups on the internet use a T50 torx. If these are not working on your tension pulley, try a 16 mm socket. This worked for me. I also suggest a 'come along' type pipe on the socket just to add some leverage in moving that tension pulley when trying to fit the belt over the last pulley.
February 4, 2011
gabrielComments: Should I care about torque at all?
January 5, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's no tightening involved with the belt - the idler pulley automatically adjusts for tension changes, so you don't need to tighten anything. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SmithermooseComments: I have a 2001 540i, I'm replacing the fan belt and I'm having trouble releasing tension to slip the new belt on.I have looked at a few videos and read lots of DIY forums and none pertain to my set up. Some say use an 8mm hex key but my tensioner pulleys have a torx head? I do know it has the small pistons on the tensioner set up but I'm confused, how and what do I do? Thanks for your help.

December 27, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The pullies should have plastic covers on them - the first thing you need to do is to remove the cover. Then you need to figure out which one is the tensioner and which ones are simply the idler pullies. I'm out of the office right now, and unfortunately, I don't have my books here to post a pic. The tensioner should either be the hex style that you mention, or it indeed may be slightly different. I don't think it has a torx fastener on it though - I'm almost certain you're looking at an idler pulley there, not the tensioner. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
blazeComments: I have a 95 BMW 325i it is making a knocking noise around fan pulley is it a bad pulley or.belt the fan can be moved back and forth slightly seems loose
November 20, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It may be just that the fan is loose, or a fan blade may have been chipped, or the water pump bearings are failing. The fan is attached to the water pump - I would probably pull the pump and take a closer look. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Chris95m3Comments: To Carlsbad, Unfortunately I had the same thing happen but my belt broke due to me installing belt wrong side of one pulley. Anyway, The parts water pump, both belts, new tstat and o ring all from pelicanparts.com came out to 107 shipped. They have a write up for it also and its not a difficult job. Shouldn't take more than 2-3hrs , so look for the water pump write up, the coolant flush /tstat install write up and this belt write up.
November 3, 2010
CarlsbadComments: It was indeed the water pump plus the drive belt needs to be replaced. Do you happen to know the cost & hrs to replace a water pump, coolant 1 gallon & drive belt? Txs
October 31, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, I don't. I would call around to a few shops and inquire. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
bottletopComments: iv got a p reg 318ti + its just started to make a screechine noise like the fanbelts loose but when the cars running stood still its like its not ticking over right can you help
October 31, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would spray some belt dressing on it and see if it still makes the noise. Then you know if it's the belt or not. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
CarlsbadComments: Thanks Staff. I must have not been clear but the coolant completely went all over the street. Plus, when we went to fill it; it just drained right out. So, what belt would have broken? Because there is a belt that snapped or hanging around the fan...three people who looked at it also saw the belt around the fan??? Txs
October 31, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fan is driven by the fan clutch which is indeed attached to the water pump, which is driven by the belt. Sorry for not being clear. It's more important to have the water pump running than the fan - that is probably what caused the overheating. If coolant is leaking out, then you probably have a blown hose or something like that? - Wayne at Pelican Parts
CarlsbadComments: I have a 1995 BMW that the fan belt broke. What I'm wondering if the head gasket will need to be replaced if that happens? The steering got stiff then the car started making loud noises. When I pulled over about two blocks their was a trial from the coolant. The tow guy said it wasn't the engine but from the sounds of it; the head gasket might need to be replaced.

The warning signs previously had been coming on since April but I've taken it 3 times to 3 mechanics, & they all said they couldn't find anything wrong. That it's more then likely was a faulty wiring or electrical issues.

Was it wear or tear, could something cause the belt to break and what kind of damage might have occurred? Thank you.

Meaning, I can't tell when there's a real issue with my car.

October 30, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you're losing coolant, you will see a drop in the level in the tank. Your car doesn't have a belt-controlled fan either, but the water pump is indeed powered by the belt. I would just keep a close watch on the coolant level, and see if you're losing coolant anywhere. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Alvin WongComments: First of all, great write up. I just have a question about installing the poly-ribbed belts on an E36. When the belts are back on, is adjusting the tension on the belts necessary? Or does it automatically apply tension? Thanks!
October 24, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Good question. The spring-loaded tensioner pulley provides uniform and accurate tension once you install the belt. The 318 and early cars have a ratcheting system that you need to turn to adjust tension though (as shown in the article, Figure 6). - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BillComments: Thank you, Wayne, for your prompt reply. The serpentine belt is in good condition. No single crack was seen. I also tested the idler pulleys and found their conditions to be fine, i.e., it is not creating any sound at all when I tried to spin them with my hand. Please note that there is no sound if the vehicle is parked with its engine running. I still hear the screeching sound from time to time when the vehicle is moving. The sound goes away if I accelerate a bit or when I press the clutch pedal to shift to a lower gear. The sound can be heard after my car has travelled after 30 to 45 minutes on the city road. Thank you in advance for your advice and more power to you.
September 26, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: When I have issues like these, I typically get a can of WD-40 and spray it at every moving part in the engine compartment to see if I can locate the noise. Much more difficult when the noise is only happening at speed though. I still think what you're describing sounds like a slipping belt. It's cheap and easy to replace the belt, I would start there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BillComments: I hear screeching/squeeling sound under the hood if my car starts to slow down or going to idle. It happens right after the peak speed was reached but if i press the clutch pedal the noise goes away. Is the belt loose on the clutch? my unit is bmw e46 2002 manual transmission. thanks.
September 22, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is no belt on the clutch, but the operation of the engine is probably affecting the drive belt. I would replace the belt first, and then see if the noise continues. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
DibbyComments: Ive got BMW 3.16i 1993 It has 2 belts 1 to the alternator from Not sure could be water pump?Please adviseand 1 belt drives the power steering.Car Doesnt have Air Cond.What is the part number for the alternator belt? How do I take it off to replace? Do I need to take off power steering belt and the radiator fan? Thanks
September 16, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: That's a Euro car, it's a bit different than the ones here in the states. I think that the procedure is almost the same though as detailed in the article. If you have another secondary belt blocking the way, then you indeed need to remove it first to get to the one behind it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
AdamComments: What size socket do I need to remove the engine belt on a 2000 BMW 328i?
September 12, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry for the confusion everybody, I updated the article, the correct size is 8mm. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
GJIMMComments: Think i'm on the right track here, would the drive belt be the same as the timing belt? I have a 2003/4 320i and when pressing the accelarator it feels very ropey, its as though I can feel the tension in a cable thats wearing very fine. Engine noise does seem to be pretty loud, but thats kind always been like that. Someone said its sounds like the timing belt, there's around 74000 on the clock. Any help is greatly appreciated, or maybe pointing me in the right direction.
August 16, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your engine has a timing chain, not a timing belt. I would probably have an expert take a quick look at it if you think something is wrong. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SilverRide-o Comments: Hello, 1st great info. quick question though... what is the correct tension or rather, belt deflection? And between which two pulley's do I take the measurement?
August 12, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: On the E36, the belts use a spring-loaded idler, which is basically self-adjusting, so you don't need to set the tension (unless you have an early 318, at which I recommend about 1/2" or so deflection at the mid-point of the longest length of the belt). - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
Raymond0Comments: Hi

Recently changed my power steering pump on my 2001 323ci convertable, but since doing that i have had one belt snap almost imediatly after running the car in park for 5 mins, and then on replacing the belt I got less than 15miles out of the car before it has come off the pulley again could there be a fault with the way i put the steering pump in or could it be the wrong pump or is there another fault or something i could have missed that keeps makeing the belt jump off or snap on the pulley, it been the large belt both times??

Thanks for you help and time with this question

Ray Stower, London UK
August 10, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: That's pretty odd, I would check to make sure the pump is properly aligned with the rest of the other pullies. Also make sure that the new pump is spinning properly - if it's too stiff and not working correctly, it may cause belt problems. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
CyrilComments: Hi Wyane
I own a E46 and just want to know what the worst can happen if one drives the car with a defective v belt for a long distance. I would also appreciate if you can clarify the relation between a v belt and an alternator
August 9, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The belt takes 10 minutes to change - just change it. The v-belt is what drives the pulley on the alternator. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
at the end of my beltComments: I have A BMW 328i 2000.
Just replaced the water pump and had a friend assisting me when taking it apart however I can not remember how the belt ran threw the pullies and have not been able to find a dyogram any were can you show me a diogrm.
June 24, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Figure 5 above should be very similar to the belt routing for your car. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
joez1012Comments: I went to change my alternator belt the other day in my 93 318i and I couldnt get the tensioner to budge, I made sure to loosen the bolt accordingly but I just couldnt get it to budge, what do you suggest? Thanks a million. Its almost impossible to get any leverage on it.
June 18, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is a bolt that is used to tighten the linkage, and then there is one that turns the toothed sprocket. Make sure that the tightened bolt is loosened first. If you can't get any leverage on it, then you probably need some swivel sockets and extensions so that you can get the angle that you need. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
lazComments: what is the easiest way to remove the black plastic cover from over the radiator to change the drive belts?
June 12, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Please see our tech article on the radiator replacement (also water pump replacement) for details on removing the shroud. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
undertakerComments: I need a diagram to re install the serpentine drive belt on my 2002 530i BMW Help!!!!
May 7, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be almost identical to the one shown here. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
gmachComments: will engine start or get damaged if the fan belt is too loose or breaks
May 3, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: In general yes, but not if you only run the car for very short periods (a minute or two). The fan belt powers the water pump, which will cause the car to overheat very quickly if it's not operating properly. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
In4cusComments: Hi Wayne, just to let you know, I will be purchasing your book, but, in the mean time, I have the mechanical tensioner and it doesn't have an attachment for either a wrench or the XXmm hex socket. What gives? How can I release the tension on it or replace the thing when I need to? I drive a 1997 328i.
March 31, 2010
In4cusComments: Hi Wayne, just to let you know, I will be purchasing your book, but, in the mean time, I have the mechanical tensioner and it doesn't have an attachment for either a wrench or the XXmm hex socket. What gives? How can I release the tension on it or replace the thing when I need to?
March 31, 2010
Rob HComments: Just changed the belts on my 94 E34. One of the simplest DIY projects I’ve ever done. Removing the fan and shroud made it much easier.
March 27, 2010
JOeComments: We have a BMW 325tds 1997, the water pump packed up, we then decided to replace the a/c belt and the waterpump, power steering pump, alternator belt. All went well with the installation of the belts and water pump, but now there is a weird sound, cannot pin point where it is coming from, but when clutch is pressed in the noise becomes louder, could you advise what this could be????
March 14, 2010
GaryComments: What tool do I need to compress the tensioner to replace it, OR how is this SAFELY performed? The tensioner pulley burned off, and the tensioner is bad. Any assistance on this would be great.
March 8, 2010
AndyComments: How about the belt routing my 02 745Li ? Is there a good photo or shop view where I can cross referenceto make sure I install mine correctly ?
Thanks,
March 2, 2010
DrummerboiComments: I have a 93 325i, and I noticed that my tensioner have the bolt instead of the hex key.Does that mean that I have a mechanical type tensioner? Also, does it work the same as a hydraulic tensioner? Do I just turn the bolt clockwise and it will un-tighten my belt? I am a but confuse about the tensioner that has a bolt and the one that has a hex key. I need some info as I am going to tackle my whole cooling system and belts. Thanks.
February 17, 2010
DaveComments: on my '96 328i how many belt tensioners are there? I was looking at the photos here on the left and it looks like there are two, but om my can I can only see one up by the Alternator.
December 22, 2009
KevinComments: I have an '85 535i E28 with the Sanden ac compressor conversion. Does anyone know what the ac compressor belt size should be for the Sanden unit? The old one broke and it doesn't have any size info on it. I have an old 12.5x 810 and it's way too small. I'm guessing it's at least a 12.5x 850, but want to make sure I get one that will work.

Thanks.
November 7, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: What I would recommend you do is take the old one down to your local auto parts store and have them match it up against one in stock. Even if they don't have the correct one, you can see the size. Or, simply get a tape measure and measure out the length of the belt - the 850 means 850mm which is 85 centimeters. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BlackMansWhipComments: How would you change the hydraulic tensioner?
November 4, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Change the hydraulic belt tensioner? It comes as a complete assembly, you replace it like the spring loaded one. On most cars there are bolts that mount it to the engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
foaxacaComments: Wayne: I encountered something strange with the driver's side tensioner. Instead of a spot to insert a hex as the A/C belt tensioner had it has a hex bolt. If I start turning the hex bolt, it just starts loosening. The tensioner does not start loosening. I am worried that if I continue loosening, I will just take the tensioner off. That helps me get the belt off but then how do I get it back on so it tightens the belt?
October 21, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Put force on the bolt as if you are tightening it, and then it will push against the spring and then you will be able to take the bolt off. If you turn it so that you are loosening it, then you will indeed remove the tensioner - it's designed to be sprung against the spring when tightening it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
RobertComments: is there a technique installing a new belt? even with the tensioner all the way in i cannot slip in the new belt.
October 1, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Compare the new belt to the old belt and make sure that it's the correct size. Also make sure that the belt is seated properly in the grooved pulleys before pulling the tensioner. Finally, make sure the tensioner pulley is depressed all the way - these require a large amount of force to move them sometimes. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SASComments: From everything i read Wayne, the sound seems like it must be my Pulley the small ones Should i replace them both?
September 22, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would replace the main pulley, as this is a common failure. I just replaced this on my 5-Series. Took about 30 minutes and solved my squeaking problem. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
CandelaComments: You mention in your instructions "The tensioners that hold the belt tight can be easily released using a socket and or XXmm hex tool" What is a XXmm hex tool.
September 20, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Ooops, that's a place marker for when I write the books. If I don't know the exact dimension for something, I put in XX and then replace it later on. I'll have to check to see what size this is and then update the article. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
CDADDYComments: Please provide information on how to change the belts on a 2002 745i, mines are making a lot of noise and need replacement.

thank you,
September 16, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi there. I'm pretty sure that on your model car, the belt tensioning system is very similar to the one detailed in this article. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
StevenComments: I have both inner belts on my 1991 318is off, but the AC belt has no visible little slidey track to release? How do I release tension on this belt?
September 15, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: On this car, I believe there is a pulley tensioner. Put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it and it should spring to the side. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
JeffComments: Where is the ABS relay located under the dash in a 1989 BMW 325I. I cannot find one that looks like the replacement, only an orange colored one located behind the ABS CPU. Is this the wrong relay in its place? Thanks for your help.
September 15, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's a metal box under there - that should be your ABS unit. The relay is an aluminum-cased unit, and should be op top of the ABS control unit's housing. You might need a shop lamp to see in there as it can be pretty dark. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Grim ReaperComments: i purchased a belt for my 2000 BMW 741 I and i think it is too big as it has too much slack and i followed the directions shown above. what is the proper length of the fan belt?
July 12, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: My rule of thumb is to take a look at the belt that is on the car to begin with, before taking it off. It will be marked with a number - that is the length in millimeters of the belt (like 840 means 840mm). Then, make sure that you order the correct sized belt. Particularly on BMWs, different models with different features sold in different parts of the world used varying lengths of belts. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
smurflessComments: For those looking at this project on an M3, be advised that the longer engine is a bit harder to get at. I had quite good success from underneath the car, but get a full-face mask to keep the dust and debris out of the eyeballs. But I was able to do both belts from that position without removing anything else. The pictures in the Bentley manual appear to have been taken with the radiator and fan removed, because I couldn't get a hand down from the top.
July 6, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The M3 engine is the same exact size as the regular six cylinders. Yes, in some of these photos here too, the radiator has been removed for the purpose of taking very clear photos. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
panicComments: I cant tell from the threads I've read but hope I'm not posting in the wrong place. I have a 97 318is. Last December is began squeaking when I started the car, but eventually the squeak stopped. Now the air conditioner wont blow cold air, but the fan still works and there is a load on the engine when I engage the AC from the control panel. So can anyone give me a hint? Do I have one or two belts? Do these symptoms sound familiar? Thanks.
June 19, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: See the article on checking the fluid / gas within the A/C system - you want to make sure that you don't have a leak. If you have good pressure in there, then there might be a problem with the compressor. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Old guys garageComments: Might want to mention that a 16mm socket is required to move the spring tensioner for the Alt PS belt.
June 11, 2009
BM328iComments: I will attempt to replace the belts on my 96 328i. I am also going to replace my tensioners. I notice there are 2 types of tensioners available on your website.. 1. Shock Type Hydraulic and 2. Mechanical.. does it matter which one i use?
June 5, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The mechanical ones were unavailable for some time, so we were offering the hydraulic ones. I'm not aware of a performance difference between the two - I recently replaced mine on my car and used the mechanical one. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
golf watertonComments: Wayne or Terry, do you have a tech article on replacing the tensioner pulley? How do you ship to Canada? I have a very noisy alternator tensioner pulley on my 97 328i convertible.
May 30, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I just did this last month on my 5-Series. Three bolts and it comes right off. I had to take off the fan in order to gain access, but I supposed that determined people could do it without removing the fan (although I don't recommend it). We ship to Canada every day - the shopping cart has an International rate calculator. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
TerryComments: When replacing the belts, take this opportunity to also replace the the tensioner pulleys. A cheap fix of a big source of engine noise.
May 13, 2009
JimComments: I need to change out a belt tensioner for a 318i '96 and have not been able to find anything on this fix. It looks like I have to take the alternator out. Any help out there?
May 8, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I just replaced the tensioner on my 5-Series last week. Not the same car, but I don't think you need to remove the alternator in order to remove the tensioner. It should be simply bolted to the front of the engine. I did have to remove my fan and housing in order to give me enough room to work in there. Hope this helps. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
FrankComments: Does the E36 have 3 or 2 tensioners and an allen wrench can be used instead of the recommended tool?
April 29, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's one tensioner for the main belt, and one for the A/C belt too. Yes, you can theoretically use an Allen wrench to put into the tensioner, but you're going to have to be very strong to turn the tensioner with a small allen wrench. I know that I personally would not be able to do it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
jtbimmerComments: I read this article and attempted to change the belts without removing the fan. I have a 98 328i, and there is no way you can change the belts without taking off the fan. I tried various angles with my tools and the fan shroud and fan were in the way of my wrenches. In the pictures shown it looks possible, but after further review I noticed the fan shroud was missing in the pictures. So if you don't have a fan shroud it might be possible, but if you doand you should or your radiator will not get proper airflowyou will have to remove the fan.
April 23, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Indeed, the photos for this article were taken with the fan shroud off, as you cannot see in there with the fan and shroud on. However, I just replaced the belt in my car two weeks ago, and although it was a tight fit, I was able to do it. As it happened, I had to replace a squeaky tensioner right after, so I did end up taking the fan and shroud off the next day. The removal of the fan is easy with the proper tools (see this article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Radiator-Replacement/E36-Radiator-Replacement.htm for detailed instructions on how to do it.

Indeed, if you want to make life easier on yourself and you have the tools handy, I would spend the additional 5-10 minutes removing the fan. It does make the job a heck of a lot easier. - Wayne at Pelican Parts

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