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 > Technical Articles: / BMW E36 3-Series (1992-1999) >
Ignition Troubleshooting Checklist
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Ignition Troubleshooting Checklist

Mikko Kosonen

Time:

1-2 hours

Tab:

$30-150

Talent:

*

Tools:

Spark plug socket, extension and driver, flatblade and Philips screwdriver, set of metric wrenches, sockets and ratchet, set of Torx drivers

Applicable Models:

 
BMW E30 3-Series (1984-93)
BMW E36 3-Series (1992-99)

Parts Required:

Spark plugs, and/or ignition wires, and/or ignition coil

Performance Gain:

A BMW that runs like new

Complementary Modification:

Replace the carburetor (if so equipped)
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This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.

Here is a list of what to check if your car is backfiring constantly or if the car is not running right.

Ignition box (CDI/CDS)

  • First thing to check is that the ignition box is making squeling sound while power is on, this indicates that the high power voltage is produced.
  • If there is no sound check that the ignition box is getting correct voltage (Check the manual which terminal) If the voltage is much under 12V the ignition box will not sound "healthy". If you have heard the sound while its working, you know the difference.
  • High voltage terminal should be reading 4-5V, and when measured with oscilloscope there should be this 400-500V spike when terminal C is connected to ground.

Ignition coil

  • Ignition coil is simple to measure. When measured with ohm meter the primary coil windings should give reading of 0.3-0.6 ohms. Secondary coils should be near 600 ohms.
  • Check that the wires that are attached to coil are correctly connected
  • Never use conventional ignition coil with CDI/CDS system

Ignition wires/connectors

  • Check the wires with an ohmmeter that they all conduct. Copper wires should give very low readings, refer manufacturer information on other types of wires
  • Wires could leak the "spark" to ground therefore diminishing the spark that goes to spark plugs. Putting tape on the wire to prevent leak won’t help. Replace the wires, they are cheap.
  • Resistors (plug/distributor caps) need to be measured, they should all be in +/- 10% ohm range of each others (2k ohm on each end is normal)
  • Resistors are not needed, but dismissing of those may cause radio interference in stereo equipment or other digital instruments.

Spark plugs

  • Check the plug condition visually and clean the plugs with brass brush.
  • Check the gap between the electrodes (should be 0,6mm or near)
  • Plug insulator may be cracked and thus "spark" is leaking to ground.

Breaker points

  • Check visually that the breaker points open enough (refer to manual) when manually turning the engine (BE SURE THAT THE IGNITION IS OFF!!)
  • The breaker point contacts should be clean and even. If there are any spikes or holes with on the contacts, replaec the points with new ones.
  • Check with "light pen" that the breaker points open at right position
  • Breaker point gap is directly connected to dwell angle. To be sure that the gap is correctly set, measure the dwell angle with correct meter (many multimeters have this nowadays).

Vacuum advance/retard

  • While distributor cap is off you can check if the vacuum advance system is working
  • Remove the hose from the carburetor and suck it (with your mouth). The breaker points should be moving a bit
  • If nothing happens the breaker point advance/retard system is stuck. Lubrication usually helps on this one.
  • If the breaker points are moving just fine when moving with hand, the problem could be the vacuum unit. When aging these usually break and should be replaced.

Carburetor

  • The carburetor could be getting dirty and clogged so the mixture is not right, if possible check the jets and emulsion tubes that they are clean. With weber carbs the idle and main jets are easily removable, they are at the opposite side of acceleration pump. Even if these look clean, clean them with compressed air. Don’t poke them with anything metallic, the jets might get damaged and the jet sizing is not correct anymore. If the jets are very much covered in oxides you could soak them in some solvent overnight or try cleaning them ultrasonic washer.
  • Air leaks can cause backfiring, the leaks cause that the engine is getting too much air and so the mixture is not correct. You can either install new gaskets to carburetor or use some gasket adhesive to correct the situation. Don’t use any silicone based substance because they can’t stand the heat+gasoline combination, even though the markings on the side of the box indicate so. Besides, when you put the carburetor back together some silicone adhesive could get instantly in carburetor and from there to the jets and emulsion tubes.
  • The gasket between the engine and the intake manifold as the gasket between carburetor and intake manifold might be leaking. These are usually made of graphite or other material and need to be replaced with new ones.
  • The fuel mixture may be too lean and cause backfiring and uneven run.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Eve Comments: 1995 BMW 325i - the key works with infrared and the infrared box is now faulty. How do we fix this?
October 18, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Replace the broken receiver. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Spitfire Comments: Hi Nick! Me again.
Thank you for your suggestions and recommendations.
So eventually I replaced my CPS anyway, because the wire was looking bad and I could bet it would go out pretty soon. That did not fix any problems. I've decided to check my plugs once again. Aaaaand the whole spark plug well was full of water. The car was outside the whole time without the plastic covers on, and it was raining a bit. And I am pretty sure it's water. Not coolant. Not gas. But water. Tommorow I'll be trying to dry everything out, hope that solves the spark problem. How did the water get there? I mean, it dooesn't look like such big amount of it could get from cylinder past spark plug without engine running for like 4 days or so. And it doesn't look like I have a blown head gasket The oil looks totally fine, I've removed the oil filter when changing the CPS. What are your thoughts about this? Could it be that earlier, when I checked for spark, the coil/spark plug well was moist/wet ant because of that there was a shortage, and thus, no spark? All of the other wells are bone dry, it's just the fifth one which had water in it. Looking forward your answer! I am hugely thankful for your help, and I appreciate the work you put in for this community. Thank you!
December 2, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The water was in the spark plug hole? It may have leaked in from the cowl, maybe the wiper cowl seal is allowing water to leak in. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Spitfire Comments: Hi there, Nick!
So I've got a 1991 E36 320i
The problem is - there is no spark in 5th cylinder.
And because of that car ir running a bit rough, it has way less power and the engine reacts slowly to any changes of throttle.
So, the spark plugs are new. I've checked them, all of them work fine.
The coil packs are ok. I've tried swapping them from one cylinder to another. Still, the 5 cylinder won't fire.
I've checked the resistance ant continuity of wires that go from DME to coil packs with multimeter. Their resistance is the same as the working cylinder's wires, so I assume they are fine.
I've checked the resistance of Crankshaft Position Sensor. It reads somewhere around 480 Ohms. Bentley manual says it should be 1280 Ohms. But I've done some research, and people around the internet say that the resistance should be around 560 Ohms +-10%. To completely diagnose the CPS, one buddy of mine will show along. He has the same engine, and it runs like a champ. So I'll check the sensor there. So, after all, could the CPS be the culprit? Where do i dig next? Any suggestions of your would be very helpful. Thank you in advance! You are doing great work by helping enthusiasts :
November 27, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If only missing spark on one cylinder, the issue is either with the wiring or the DME. If you are sure the wiring is OK, the DME is likely faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
casper Comments: Hi nick, so i have owned my 94 e36 320i vanos for a a month or so. On a few occasions after 20mins or more of driving if i return to idle at say stop sign or traffic lights it starts missing bad. If i turn the car off an back on it will still miss. note: its not cooking its temps are perfect but if i turn it off for a few hours till its 100% cooled down it will run fine.
i changed the spark plugs already but its got me stumped why it only does it sometimes and only after driving for a while.
Any insight and advise appreciated
November 4, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light on? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. You could be losing a coil or fuel delivery when hot. I would start with the basics when the problem is present.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Catalin Comments: Hello Nick. I'm from RomaniaI and have an 1996 E36 OBD2 to OBD1 conversion US S50B30 M3 turbo
The car used to run perfect ! But now i have a problem. With the car standing still or driving it , ...if I do WOT the car wil missfire at high RPM 5500-6500 and will not go all the way to redline. But if i go slowly gradualy on the gas then will go up to redline.
Changed the coils with Bremi 11 856
Got colder sparks NGK 4554 and gap them to 0.5mm 0.02"
Check the battery ground in the trunk
Any help will be much appreciated
August 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a fuel delivery problem. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Anvil man Comments: I have89 bmw325i I got the ignition shaft back in but can't get the tumbler back in I tryed numerous times it's about 3/8 of a inch from going all the way in any suggestions tryed till Iam blue in the face
August 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the lock in the correct position? Check if the steering lock in impeding it or the position of the lock cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
shaggyday Comments: can someone tell me which wire is the accessory wire on the 36 ignition switch harness its either the blue or the violet any have any idea?
July 27, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What is the vehicle info? I can see if I have the wiring. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
shaggyday Comments: how can i fix this problem 1992 bmw 325i ignition shaft
July 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Looks like you need a new lock cylinder and possibly some column parts. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Loop Comments: I am trying to determine if my 1987 BMW 325is has a ballast resistor and if so where it is located. My car currently has no spark and I tested for 12V across the terminal of the coil with the ignition switch on and got zero volts. I removed the the + and - wires from the coil and I got 11.85V when disconnected from the coil. So, I am thinking maybe that perhaps the ballast resistor is bad. Any other ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
June 26, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Power comes directly from the ignition switch. No resistor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: Hi Nick - I have a 2009 535xi and wanted to see if you had any advice on the next steps.

1 Was having a misfire in cyl 3 Spark plugs were changed a month back.
2 Replaced all 6 ignition coils.
2a I used a tech who messed up and didn't snap the coils into the connector, thus when I drove my car I had a dozen error codes up, all cyl misfires,pre-boost control, inlet and outlet Vanos, limp mode and camshaft intake and outlet.
3 Tech immediately realized what happened and corrected the coils. Car was driven for 2 miles.
4 I now have the 2A87 error code and limp mode,P052B and P2A7C. Car is currently at a reputable Indy who swapped the Vanos solenoids and still get the same error codes.

That is where I am right now. Do you have any recommendations on the next steps? Could the initial screw up of the ignition coils blown something else, like cams sensor or tooth failure? Possibly a vacuum line was disconnected, or came loose, during the excessive misfires?

Thanks in advance!
Mike
May 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't see how the coils being unplugged would cause any issue with the VANOS or timing. You may have an issue with mechanical timing that caused the misfire, resulting in the coil replacement.

I would check actual verse desired camshaft angle. If the solenoids were replaced, the issue could be a faulty camshaft actuator. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
I am a firefighter Comments: I have a 2004 325CI Convertible. when I bought the car it was getting 20 mpg. 6 months later I am getting lousy gas mileage 17mph and I have lost some power when it comes to acceleration. I have change the plugs and no check engine light comes on. I'm baffle. Please what can it be?
March 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be many things, something as simple as weather change and driving habits. I would check the vehicle fuel trim using a BMW Scan tool. If the engine fuel control is off, it will show there. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
j2020 Comments: PS Check engine light never came on. I never retrieved any codes.
March 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the note. Likely due to the misfire count being lower than the fault threshold. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
j2020 Comments: Thanks for the response Nick. I wish I had thought to closely inspect coils when I had them out. Took another look and they had hairline cracks and some carbon tracking. Ordered 6 from Pelican. They arrived from west to east coast in less than 2 days. After installation my car runs fantastic. Thanks again.
March 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Ahh, that will do it.


Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
j2020 Comments: Hello. I have a 1995 525i manual 5 speed. It has a loss of power in 2nd-4th at about 2200 -2800 rpm. Does not seem to happen in 1st rpms are always fairly high in 1st or 5th gears. When this loss of power occurs the engine makes a steady stuttering noise/feel. The noise/feel is not too pronounced but noticeable. This symptom goes away at about 3000 rpm. I changed plugs, and because the plug holes had oil in them I changed coil plug boots and valve cover gasket. Car starts up more quickly, idles more smoothly and runs better but the original symptom is still present. Any advice would be appreciated.
March 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light on? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
DavidChavez 97 328i 4door Comments: Hello "Nick" so lets get to it. i have 1997 E36 4 door. finally put a new starter on this bad girl, and we all know what a pain in the rear that job is to do but i got it done. hard as heck. i new the starter had to be replaced cuz the car will turn over and sart if im lucky enough after a few times i backed down and cranked up again. i was getting lucky with my moring starts to work but these past few weeks that was it just kept on drainng my farely new beast of battery i got like two years ago. so today once i had everyting button up and it came for the moment of truth the car fired right up . pat on the back.. so then i turned her off for a second with battery plugged in terminals have good contact ..it fired up again on the second try so i desided to take it to top up on 89 octan. now after i filled up went to crank up and it started for the 3rd time. no problems untill i got about half way on the freeway onramp the car actted like i drove it in the edison power plant , display went crazy and then the car just studdered and died out .. i myself coudnt belive this i almost blew a gasget.. so i started thinking "Nick" do u think i could have freid my Altanater because of the new starter? Note the car hasnt been running for about week and half untill today .Checked the battery it was as dead as nail but was able to take a full charge . after i took it out of car and charged it up for about 2 hours . So now this rasies another question for you "Nick" if u can bare with me..so i installed the battery once again . it fired right up and just took her home all freeway about 4miles .. now that the car is in the drive way running fine no hik ups or any indication of misfireing .. so i desiced to unplug the battery both terminales with car purring like an champ . and yes the car died out on me like it did originally when i left gas staion . "Nick" what dose this indacate// why dose the car die out ... i though it will still be running even if the battery was diconected .. im i worng ? what gives? is this a sing of my altanater is done and its not keeping my battery chagred . even well running? if so what type of amp on the alt. do i need . seen a few #s out there..Barrtery, relays , nock sensor ,fuses , fule system fine and works grate . this has to be a straight elc. problem.. tommrow ima go ahead and runn the E36 and see if the barttery keeps charge. thank you for reading any advice with good advice. Thanks "Nick"
February 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Never remove battery terminals while the vehicle is running, damage to the alternator or other electronic components can occur.

I would check charging system voltage. If the battery is ok and tests good, you may have a faulty alternator. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Pgator2258 Comments: Have an 08 328i. Had a mis fire code in the #6 cylinder replaced the spark plugs in all cylinders and replaced the coil pack in the # 6 cylinder. Started the car and now have a mis fire in # 4 and # 5 # 6 still. Order new OEM coil Packs and still same. Dumb founded????
February 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The issue may not be ignition related, many things can cause a misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
dylan Comments: I have a 95 m3 I just replaced all the fuel injectors, new intake manifold, all new couplers, new fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, valve cover gasket and spark plugs, the car still backfires a decent amount when downshifting and occasionally dies when at idle also becomes un responsive to throttle. I tested my coils and they read .8-1ohms just wondering you can help point in the right direction.
December 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Backfiring is a timing issue. Check engine mechanical timing - compression would be a good indicator of an issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rob Comments: I have a 92 BMW 318i & the car wont shut off when I turn the key off. I have replaced the ignition switch & the ignition lock cylinder. I was wanting to replace the ignition relay but I can find its location. Can anyone helpme ? I can't find anything on the location of that relay. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
December 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have that component location. I think you want to check if the DME relay is hanging up, staying on. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nestor e30 Comments: Ok,I measuring fron coil green cable+ with the swich on and the cable came from distributor rotor cap unplugged,the green cable get hot and the coil extremely hot,the coil is in good condition,rotor,cap,spark plug and cable is new,DME 173 change good no code,battery charge 12v ok,ignition switch change,all fuel parts new,crank sensor,timing belt,main relay new.
October 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 9 volts unplugged is not enough. It should be battery volts. Check for a short or corrosion in the wiring. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
nestor e30 Comments: I have e30 convertible 1990,no spark, the coil get extremely hot when I put ignition switch on or start, now the coil only get 9 volts only,??? please help.
October 26, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Where are you measuring 9 volts? What is the voltage at coil when it is unplugged, with the key in the run position? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
guapoman2000 Comments: 1987 BMW 325i Convertible 3/87. The wiring references in the Bentley manual are a JOKE. Pages 41/42 Ignition Switch Continuity tests. The connector doesn't look exactly like the numbering diagram. Apparently "Terminal 9" black/yellow wire is the start signal that becomes "Terminal 50", but at this wiring connector it is a microscopically small wire size. There's no way that little thing can handle the juice needed to energize a starter solenoid. Did this "Terminal 9" go through a relay or circuit somewhere to become the larger "Terminal 50" wire that triggers the BMW starter? Its so damn hot in the shop right now its hard to think, and once inside the car with the windows stuck up! you just sweat like mad and can't see within 2 minutes. I wish I could meet the guy that put this Bentley manual together, especially pages 41/42! Can you help?
August 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I offered some guidance in your other questions. I'll need to know what is keeping the engine from starting before I go digging through wiring. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
guapoman2000 Comments: 1987 325i Convertible 3/87. Car just quit, it cranks, however, does not start. I am looking at the "BMW" 3 series Electrical Troubleshooting Manual and pages 41 & 42 Electrical System provides a Continuity Tests for IGNITION SWITCH. At the "Switch" side only three terminals ring okay when the Switch is placed in ON/START and one does not Ring. The Manual itself says that there's two Violet wires but, I only see one. Additionally, the manual says there should be a BLACK/YELLOW and I don't see this color except a SOLID BLACK. The Switch harness has a Solid Green, Violet, Blue/Green, two Browns and a Brown/Blue. It has failed the C1/C continuity. Using the pin 30 RED the Green, Violet, and Blue/Green rings with joy. The others don't either in ON/START. Should I just replace the IGNITION SWITCH even though the Manual doesn't match the Switch Harness Wire Color Code?
August 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: before I dig too deep, what is the vehicle missing when you try to start it?

Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
elijha Comments: Hi Nick thank you for you reply. No my check engine is not on. I have changed all the obvious. Spark plugs, fuel filter, I'll check the competition see how it works. Could it be any thing else hate for it to be a major work.
August 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Follow my original advice, once you do some testing I may be able to me more help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
elijha Comments: Good a to all.I want to say first off I am a big fan.For being in a place where service is not so advanced you have helped me a lot.
I have a BMW 328i 1996. It has been a good car so far. Recently it started to have a problem idling when I start it anytime during the day, rough as if it's missing, once I give it just a little gas it raves up the idles just like it's is supposed to,once in gear acts as if it's about to die. Start idling rough till I give it gas and it's back to normal once it gets going runs just fine. I have lost some power and not accelerating like it use to.
I have changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned up the intake manifold, please help. What am I missing.
August 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light on? Sounds like an engine misfire. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
thillskier Comments: I'll try to be more precise with my question. All electrical output and battery as specified. Gauges still inoperable after replacement of alternator. Car barely runs after 1 cycle from reset of ecu. Next step to take re diagnosing failure? The reset tool is giving no issue codes, and there is no illuminted ck engine lights when car is running.
Thanks.
March 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would perform a system using a BMW scan tool. It is possible the cluster was damaged by a short during the repair. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
thillskier Comments: Nick, Alternator is charging, tested with multimeter. Additionally as stated, I load tested battery after desulphating and full overnight charging. There are no voltage issues at battery, or alternator. The gauges fuel and temperature are still inoperable in all modes of key selection and whether or not car is running or not. Excelt at initial start after reset of ecu, car barely idles and bogs runs terrible. Thanks.
March 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking the vehicle for fault codes. If the system is not working properly, a fault code will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
thillskier Comments: My 1996 M3 alternator failed, and I babied it home as battery voltage decreased. Finally gauges stopped functioning. I recharged battery and load tested it, all good. Reset car by disconnecting batt with key on overnight. Car started and ran once. Now lost power, hard to idle, and generally runs crappy. WHat next?
March 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the alternator charging? It may be faulty. Low voltage will cause many electrical issues. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
luciano Comments: hello I have a 91 bmw 325 I car turns over no start tried starting fluid in top of engine nothing turn key on and no fuel pump sound so I bypassed relay and pump kicks on still not starting battery was low recharged it tried starting nothing red light is stuck on in my onboard computer you think maybe crankshaft censor?already replaced fuel pump and fuel filter never had an electrical issue
February 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
sam Comments: When I had the Ews2 module r&r they reprogrammed the computer and updated... Before that it just had the code of ews not communicating...
January 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: OK, got it.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
sam Comments: Checked all the above. I have spark, fuel, no codes... Could it be a sensor? Or I'm I looking at something bigger?
January 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have spark and fuel, there must be a problem with base engine, as air is the only remaining piece of the puzzle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
sam Comments: I have a 1997 BMW 318i...
It cranks, but won't start...
I changed fuel pump and filter, I bought a new chipped key from dealer, tooked it to the shop to get ews2 replaced cause it didn't work, but it still won't start any idea what cpuld be?
January 26, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Philip Comments: The coil has a good pulse but the only speed sensor that I could find is simply clamped on by a simple clamp and looks originally hardwired straight to the diagnostic plug wires! The DME does not give out any codes by using the 5-pedal push test. Plug wires spark only sometimes and then stop.
December 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Like I said, if the coil is being pulsed but is not sparking, it is faulty. If spark is coming out of the coil, there could be a voltage leak in the cap and rotor. However, I believe you replaced those parts. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Philip Comments: Just replaced distributor cap, rotor, and fuel filter on a 1985 325e but still chokes and only starts up sometimes. When driving very slowly seems ok but normally stops while accelerating. Also, sparks to the plugs do not start until after cranking the starter for a few seconds and the sparks seem to be equally poor to all plugs. Would that be a distributor issue and if so, do you sell them for this modelcould not find it on the website?
December 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be the coil or the engine speed sensor. You can check if the coil is being pulsed when cranking, if it is and it's not firing, it is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
xolomom Comments: I have removed the ignition tumbler out of my 1990 325i vert. Now I can't get the replacement tumbler to "slide right in". It comes to a complete stop about halfway in. Turning the key does not help. Any ideas?
December 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the locking tab on the tumbler can be pressed in, if not, rotate the key until it ca. Then align the slotted end with the mating end inside the steering column, then slide it in. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kwoksac Comments: Comments: Hi,my 1992 bmw 325i is having a problem, originally it was not getting spark or fuel at cylinders 4 and 5.I put a new cam sensor in it and got fuel back to those cylinders but still no spark. I have changed the plugs, changed the coils,and i am not getting any codes from the dme.I now have injection back but no spark at 4 or 5. Coil plugs both have power to them, coils are good and plugs are good. I am leaning towards changing the DME, is there anything else i should look for first? thanks

"Followup from the Pelican Staff: "I put a new cam sensor in it and got fuel back to those cylinders" does not make sense to me. Have you checked fuel delivery? Fuel pressure, volume and quality are the first order of business. - Nick at Pelican Parts"
Originally i was not getting spark or fuel to cylinders 4 and 5. With the coils plugged in and a spark plug in them, i grounded them and got no spark.I also used a metal tube to listen to the injectors to see if they were clicking.All were noticeably clicking except #4 and #5. I unplugged the camshaft position sensor and checked for spark again, still no spark. But with the camshaft postion sensor unplugged every injector was now noticeably clicking.I ordered a new camshaft position sensor, put it in, and now all injectors are clicking, Pulled the plugs in 4 and 5 and they are wet with fuel, checked those cylinders for spark again and no spark was there.So now i have gas at all cylinders, but still no spark at #4 or #5
December 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have spark on all cylinders but the two, it could be a bad DME. Before replacing it, check the wires back tot eh DME and make sure they aren't faulty. If the connection is good, the DME might be to blame. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kwoksac Comments: Hi,my 1992 bmw 325i is having a problem, originally it was not getting spark or fuel at cylinders 4 and 5.I put a new cam sensor in it and got fuel back to those cylinders but still no spark. I have changed the plugs, changed the coils,and i am not getting any codes from the dme.I now have injection back but no spark at 4 or 5. Coil plugs both have power to them, coils are good and plugs are good. I am leaning towards changing the DME, is there anything else i should look for first? thanks
December 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: "I put a new cam sensor in it and got fuel back to those cylinders" does not make sense to me. Have you checked fuel delivery? Fuel pressure, volume and quality are the first order of business. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Oscar Comments: I have a 1995 BMW 325i which just quit on me. I was driving down the road when I noticed the battery light indicator on my dashboard just lit. My car continued to run for about a half a mile but I noticed it was dying down and could not accelerate the speed until it completely died down. I tried to cranked my starter but after 3 to 4 times it will no longer turn the engine up. I replaced the battery with a new one, but still doesn't crank or turn the starter. my shifting gear was also in "park" position and moved it gently back and forth and I still get the same results, what could be the problem? Was it multiple problems, starter and alternator etc. thank you with respect if you can help me with this problem.
December 2, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you checked to see if the alternator belt is intact? If so, it sound like there an alternator problem or some other nproblem with the charging system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
e31bmw840ci Comments: so i just picked up a 92 325i with 68k orig. miles. First thing i noticed was a hard misfire, it was running on 5. #5 cyl, is not getting fuel, injector is not clicking. the injector clip has power going to it, and if i jump the #4 injector clip to the #5 clip injector works fine. My question is would a no spark or bad coil shutdown the injector for the corresponding cyl? i pulled the plug on the cyl 4 coil and it shutdown the injector so im assuming it would. coil reads .4 ohms and ive tried 3 different coils so im pretty sure thats not the problem, the injector is good works if jumped from #4 Maybe my dme is bad? any suggestions are welcome.
November 25, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have a misfire the DME will shut the injector off until you shut off and restart the engine. I would think you have a misfire, and the DME is doing this to protect the cat. Check engine spark and compression on that cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
roofman Comments: i have a 97 z3, flood car, runs great, odometer just went out,55,555 a little more now. if it had 100k i would not worry about. need help.
September 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check to see if the light bulb for the LCD display is burned out. You will have to remove the cluster to check. The bulbs are very small and require a special tool to get out. The tool part number is 61 1 138.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
john624 Comments: I have a 97' 528i, i have taken it to a mechanic 2 times on its starting problems with no answers.

When i attempt to cold start my car it will not work on the first 1-3 try's until it finally catches on the 3rd try usually, but lately its been starting on the 4th or 5th try. If it gets hot enough outside and i try to start my car for the 1st time 80% of the time it starts 1st try. So its obviously not liking the cold? The mechanic changed the fuel pump and a few other things but said he could not find the issue.
August 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The engine cranks but does not start? When your engine doesn't start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Sekepe Comments: My car BMW 318i 2002 model broke a cambelt due to that it was old and not replaced. So the cambelt was replace but doesn't wanna start. Sometimes it used to cut off power and showed/appeared a battery on the dashboard. Please help.
August 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have engine damage. Check engine compression. If it is faulty, there is likely engine damage from the broken belt. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
double trouble Comments: I have a 1988 BMW 325i convertible that is hard to start and stumbles under load like a short or a misfire. I changed spark plugs and ignition wires and still have the same problem. Any suggestions? Thanks!
June 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the system is misfiring, a fault code will be set identifying the cylinder(s). This will be your best bet when diagnosing.

Once you locate the cylinder. Check that is has good aprk, fuel and compression.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
hippie Comments: 1987 bmw 325 driving down the road and just shut down likeyou turn off the key.will not restart.
June 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Hennessy Comments: I have a 1994 bmw 325i I would like to know what is a secondary ignition monition?
April 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have a typo in your question. Could you state the name of what are inquiring about again? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mera Comments: 1997 BMW 528i we changed the engine onit it used to start before. now we can get get it to crank but it wont start. spark plugs r not sparking. no fuel ignjection. pls advise.
February 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like the vehicle starting may be blocked by EWS (immobiliser). Check for fault codes with the EWS using a BMW scan tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
TITE3NBIGD Comments: My 94 32is wont start. This happened after we had a cold weekend below freezing temps. Car drove fine till that friday evening, but when I checked on it the following tuesday, it would not start. Prior to that I replaced the starter and Water pump and related items. I used a Peake code reader and the only code that came up is, 1A=Control unit supply according to the manual for the tool. I have had the battery checked and NAPA said it was good, but on the side it has "bad' written, which I think happened at Autozone when they checked it. It is a bmw battery and the when you look through that little hole on top of the battery, it is black, for discharged battery, as opposed to green for sufficiently charged battery. I have checked for voltage at DME main relay, fuel pump relay, B+ post and small red wire in engine compartment, all fuses, spark at plugs and coils, replaced the crank and camshaft sensors, but still no start. Previously it backfired but since the install of the crank and camshaft sensor that is gone when i try and start it. After I installed those sensors and started, it actually started for a few secondsmaybe 5 and then stopped and nothing since. I have also converted the Peake code to BMW's decimal system using the formula given in the manual and came up with "Code 26". For my vehicle I noticed all BMW codes are 4 digits and the first two numbers are 12 and so I figured my "code 26" is really "code 1226", which corresponds to Knock sensor #2. But then I realize there is an actual Peake code for the Knock sensor, and that did not come up. But I also see that BWW code 1281 says DME memory control unit supply, which talks about possible low battery voltage to the DME and possibly a faulty DME. So, as you can tell, I am very puzzled at this time. It has been quite a learning experience about the electrical system, but I am ready to get to the bottom of this and would like to do it myself for the sake of learning and satisfaction. So, do you think I should get a new battery although it is around 12v and takes a charge? Should I replace the knock sensors and hope that does it? Also, what does Peake reader Code 1A correspond to in terms of BMW codes? I have been the only owner for the car and it has 280,000 plus miles and have enjoyed driving and working on it and would like to continue to do so. So, any ideas on what to do next and look for would be helpful. I do go on bimmerforums and solicit advice, but those can sometimes be questionable.thnxs
February 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if the battery is at 12 volts and holds a charge, I would not replace it. The knock sensors will not prevent your engine from running. You are going to have to fuel delivery and injector pulse as well as engine compression.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
ronald Comments: my BMW 316 I ,refuses to crank.when i switch on the ignition and try to crank,it does not produce any sound ofcranking.what might be the problem?
December 20, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that your battery is fully charged and if it is, the starter is getting good voltage and a singal to crank from the ignition switch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jun Comments: Comments: i have a 1998 bmw z3with starting problem, it will crank but won't start.There's no check engine sign but when I check it with SR5 tester its says 11 and that's camshaft sensor but I just replace a few month ago. Any help would greatly be appreciated
July 15, 2012
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check to see what you are missing; air, fuel or spark. You'll want to check for spark at the spark plugs and for injector pulse at the injector electrical connector. I can offer more help once you can tell me what is missing from the equation. - Nick at Pelican Parts.
NOW the peake tester says no. 2 - Idle speed control actuator. How do you check this one?
July 26, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would address it how I mentioned. Chasing an idle speed code will not help if there is no spark or injector pulse. You could have a bad crankshaft sensor or a bad DME. You'll have to dig a little deeper. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jun Comments: i have a 1998 bmw z3with starting problem, it will crank but won't start.There's no check engine sign but when I check it with SR5 tester its says 11 and that's camshaft sensor but I just replace a few month ago. Any help would greatly be appreciated
July 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check to see what you are missing; air, fuel or spark. You'll want to check for spark at the spark plugs and for injector pulse at the injector electrical connector. I can offer more help once you can tell me what is missing from the equation. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MROSS Comments: how do remove ignition cylinder only, on a 1993 BMW 325i 4 door sedan 5spd inline 6 cylinder. The key just turns in the ignition where key inserts. the ignition is stuck in the acc mode. Its stuck between off and engaging starter.So I had to disconnect positive terminal in the dark so I would not kill the battery. The steering wheel is in the lock position so I can't turn tires to tow out of very steep driveway. I was told that I need a very skinny, narrow tool to insert along ignition and it will slide out easily.
May 8, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The theft pin is broken. You will have to get the key to return to the locked position. Then turn key On, 60° from lock. Insert a paper clip or thin wire (unless you have the BMW special tool) into the lock cylinder release hole. Then pull lock cylinder out.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
SanWhor Comments: My 1994 325i misfire, Peake scan tool read code 19= coil #5, I replaced a set of the spark plugs and one bad coil and reset the code, the problem still not fix, I checked the coil plugs with the ohm meter the #5 coil plug "black wire" has read "xxxx" the rest of the five coil plugs "black wire" had no read "0", Please help.
April 28, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The black wire is the trigger from the DME. Try running a new wire to the DME. Coil #5 goes to pin 25. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
damien0222 Comments: hi i have a 1987 318i bmw.. she starts up perfect idles perfect but when driving and the revs exceed 2000 it has a sudden miss or pinging as they say.. i have changed the plug leads.. the coil... the rotor... any ideas of what else may be the cause?
March 13, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a fuel delivery problem. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
RMP Comments: I replaced the cold start valve, because it took so ong to warm up. now its about three starts before it will idle at 8 to 1000. Could the valve be dirty? and should I replace the fuel filter. Its fine once warmed up.
January 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could the valve be stuck open, sending too much fuel? I would check that. if disconnected, does it start and idle better? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mahi Comments: have 1998 m-3 that I swap engine. My problem is that when I started the engine, it goes ful trottle. Could I have connected the sensor incorrectly?
January 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that the throttle connectors are correct. If they are, the throttle cable may be over-adjusted. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jrbaly Comments: I am having trouble with the car starting. I have a 1992 bmw 325. Went to start the car this morning and it won't catch. It's turning over but won't ignite. Battery sounds weak though.
December 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your 92 should be putting out trouble codes - check out our article on fuel injection trouble codes for more information. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
JJ GA Comments: I HAVE 1987 325E WENT I START THE ENGINE IT LACK THE FULL POWER I HAVE TO START THE ENGINE ABOUT 3 TIME TO GET FULL POWER WHAT WOULD COST THIS
December 18, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be many, many different things. I would first start looking for vacuum leaks. It may also be caused by a clogged fuel filter or a failing fuel pump. Those are just my first guesses off the top of my head. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
sas Comments: i have a 2003 540i. One morning i went out and turned the key and heard one click. I put the battery on a charger for a night tried again and just heard a single click. indicators say battery is ok. could it be the starter?. any help would be appreciated. thanks
November 9, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the battery is fully charged and your battery cables are ok, the starter might be faulty. Check to see if the starter is getting 12v on the small post of the starter solenoid, also check to make sure the motor will turn by hand. If both are ok replace the starter.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
e36 danny Comments: im having a problem with my car i changed to starter due to the old one going bad but my car still wont turn on it just cranks. what should be the problem
November 8, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
wynn Comments: My '95 M3 ran hot while in traffic but not all the way to the redline in the gauge. I made it home but when i tried to start the car she wouldn't turn. No clicking of the starter even. I have power on my instrument cluster but not on the multi-information display or on-board computer. very dim lights on the climate controls. When you turn the key nothing happens. I need help!
October 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the battery first, then take a look at the belts and pulleys, find out why it is overheating. Is it leaking coolant, water pump faulty, thermostat faulty, and so on.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jake Comments: I have a 01 z3 3.0, it has no power at the fuel pump, power on the 30 pin on the fuel pump relay, power on the 30 pin on the dme relay, no power on fuse 13. Tried jumping the DME relay from the 30 pin to the 87 pin, with nothing.

I am at a loss for what else to check, an help?
October 1, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Fuse 13 is the power circuit of the control side of the fuel pump relay, it is supposed to be hot in the run and start positions of the ignition switch. F13 Gets it's power from F203, it is in the ebox fuse holder, that fuse gets it power through the main relay and f106. F106 is hot all the time. The main relay is grounded by the DME on pin 4 of the relay. check to see if the main relay is getting grounded on pin 4 and see if there is 12v on pin 2 and 5 of the main relay, check all of the fuses, - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rod Comments: Have a problem with 90 BMW 525i. Just had the intake manifold gasket and spark plugs replaced to cure an uneven idle and loss of power when moving away from stop lights. Engine builds power very slowly. Check engine light comes on between 1500 - 2000 rpm. Engine cuts out momentarily at highway speeds, car vibrates. Any ideas on this problem?
May 8, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have a few problems. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. If the check engine light is ON, there will be a fault code that directs you to the area of the problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Batman68 Comments: I have a 92 325is manual and it completely will not start. I turn the key and all the electrical comes on but the engine will not turn and there is no cranking sound heard. The battery is fairly new and putting out the correct voltage. I also tried just starting with my other vehicle and no responce. Please offer suggestions. Thank you!
March 1, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be one of many things, but the first thing I would look at is the ignition switch - these tend to fail after many years. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
rags Comments: i have an 1981 320i bmw that just stoped runing i put new spark plugs/ wiers , cap, roter and coil it started agin and ran for a few minits and wont start agin and has no spark thank you if you can
January 6, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's very tough to diagnose problems like these over the Internet. However, no spark may be related to your camshaft sensor - I would take a closer look at that before moving on. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
et Comments: i have a 88 735i my batter went dead put i new one in and know all it wants to do is turn over and the horn blows but will not start i dont have a ownrs manel for it how can i get is started
December 26, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like trouble with the alarm system. I would try to disarm the alarm, and that might help. This is one of those issues that are probably impossible to diagnose over the Internet. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
topgunn Comments: need help unstalling the ignition switch on a 84 bmw 633csi.

Thanks.

Terry
November 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Place key in the locked position. Then turn key On, 60° from lock. Insert a paper clip or thin wire (unless you have the BMW special tool) into the lock cylinder release hole. Then pull lock cylinder out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
odi Comments: I go to start the car and the key turns over and i hear what sounds like a celonide clicking, and the car wont start. if i hold the key it clicks cont. battery is fully charged, coded key seems to be working, tried the spare with the same results, starter gone out, just like that?? any help would be great thanks
November 18, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm guessing that the battery is dead. You may think that it's fully charged, but it doesn't sound like it's allowing any current to discharge. I would replace the battery first and then go from there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
amsterdam Comments: we changed the pcv on 2004 325i oil separator put everything back now the car has no spark to the plugs.please help
November 12, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that the engine grounds are connected and all the electrical connectors are properly seated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
freeroamer Comments: i have a 1984 bmw 318 i 1.8L jetronic 11/84 production date single overhead cam with the 0080 distributer,i have for timing i know it should be 15 degrees before tdc,it there an easy way of knowing when i have it set on the mark for tdc by looking through the bell housing?what should i see for it to be right on it? i have replaced the pulse sender today ,replaced the ecm with a rebuilt,n 4 fuel injector,2 of the fuel injector were not on the correct injectors,i am getting to signal from the distributor, at the icm also i am get current at that location,i have also replaced the si board with a batteryless one,i have fuel getting to cylinders and the cold start valve is giving fuel in intake,the fuel injectors i put new upper and lower seals,also have checked for continuity at icm at ground and + terminal and had continuity til i took off the wire on temp sensor near distributer,the car was running at one point til i got 2 plug wires backwards.now the engine just turns over and does n't start i think i need to get a bwd coil, as i have a msd coil,but need exact timing mark locations,also used a jumper for the clutch switch because it is bad.
November 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It sounds like you have a lot of stuff going on. I would post this issue in our forums so that a bunch of people can take a closer look at it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
luis Comments: I have a 96, 5 series, the car dont start,I have a good power from the batteria.
October 6, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check what the codes the computer is outputing - it will likely show you what is wrong: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jd Comments: I have a 1989 535i bmw e34. I recently replace the head and now i dont have spark to the spark plug wires. It was running before i change the head and the only thing that its different is my ignition key,because i lost the original key and the key that i have rite now i bought it from the BMW dealer itself, could that be the problem? Please please help ! ! ! !
April 14, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Before digging too deep. Check that the wiring harness and grounds are all properly routed. You may have left something off that is preventing the vehicle from running. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Pig Comments: I have a 95 325is. When I am under heavy acceleration, my car begins to mis-fire around 3500rpm to 3800rpm. After that rpm range, the car seems to be fine.
I have replaced the wire set, the plugs, and the coils. I have checked compression. The results were 230, 230, 220, 225, 237, 230.
What could be the cause of my power-loss from 3500rpms to 3800rpms?
March 5, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Some of those are oxygen sensor codes and some are catalyst efficiency codes. I would start by checking o2 sensor operation. If they are working properly, you may have a bad cat, the cat could be restricted. This would cause your drivability issue.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
TheStigg Comments: i am getting a vibration, like a misfire, at about 2300 and 2700rpms and i think it is messed up wires but im not sure because it isn't a constant misfire. i replaced the spark plugs and the valve-cover gasket because of oil it the spark plug holes, so im guessing it is the wires. Any suggestions?
February 18, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If there was oil on the wires, they are likely no good. I would replace them and see if the misfire goes away. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
red bmw 1991 Comments: how do u check a coiloff of the car if i have power going in the coil but no power coming outof the coil is the coil bad or i need to check something else
November 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I wouldn't recommend bench testing or trying to. With the engine cranking, you should have battery power on one coil terminal, then the other should be pulsing Use an incandescent test light to test the pulsing side. be sure to have the coil high tension wire attached to the distributor to prevent shocking yourself. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
red bmw 1991 Comments: have a problem my 1991 325i dont have spark check the coil no poweror spark whats wrong
November 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You should power on one terminal, that comes from the ignition switch. The other side goes to the DME and is toggled to create spark. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Griffin Comments: I have a '98 328is. Recently I've noticed that at highway speed and between 2-3,000 rpm in 5th gear the engine will begin to vibrate and the car looses power. Once this starts the car will continue to run poorly in any gear or rpm. Restarting the car usually fixes the problem temporarily. Bad ignition coils/spark plugs? Thanks!
November 3, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I would pull the codes immediately after that happened and see if there are any triggered. Chances are your DME computer will inform you of a problem. See this article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
san Comments: Iown a1987BMW325I and i am having problems with hard starting. Sometimes the car will start in one second and other times it takes a little longer.
October 26, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Start by looking for vacuum leaks, that's the number one culprit in these cases. You can also check for fuel from the injectors when you're starting - there may be some clogs in there. Replacing the fuel filter *might* help, I have seen this happen before with a clogged filter. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
beemerhog Comments: one other item never seen before until i tried it. if your having random stalling issues with the engine warmed up and engine bay hot, try starting and driviing a few minutes without the diagnostic cap on. Apparently, the cap can short out some pins when realy hot. A new cap for $20 will fix the problem.
September 2, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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