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Pelican Technical Article:

Porsche Dashboard Gauge
Repair and Refurbishment

Difficulty Level: 4
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

     This article is the one in a series that will be released in conjunction with Wayne's upcoming book, 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series.  The book will be 256 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 350+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book should be a staple in any 3-Series owner's collection.  See The Official Book Website for more details.  The book is due out in October 2005.   
[Click on Photo]

Figure 1: Standard 3 Gauge Set on the 914


     Many Porsche owners have had problems with the gauges that are located in the dashboard of their cars.  This Pelican tech article will provide some hints and tips on the following topics related to the VDO gauges found in almost all Porsches:

  • Gauge Face Replacement & Refurbishment
  • Odometer Repair
  • Speedometer Calibration and Check
  • Speedometer Recalibration for Different Tires
  • Temp/Oil/Gas Module Replacement & Substitution

     The VDO gauges used in all the early Porsches have very similar construction and design.  Therefore, the 356, 911, 914, and other Porsche (and VW, and BMW) gauges are often very similar.  Figure 1 shows some typical gauges from a 914.   Unfortunately, the problems that occur with these gauges are also often common with many Porsche cars.  Although there are many different types of these gauges, this article will attempt to be as broad as possible, in the hope that much of the information and pictures provided can be used on many gauges from many different cars.


Figure 2: Scratched Plastic Face

Gauge Face Refurbishment

     Some of the later cars (later 914s, for example) have plastic gauge faces used on all the gauges.  Over the life of the car, these can easily be scratched and dulled, as seen in Figure 2.   The solution for this problem is to replace the faces with older glass ones.   These can be cleaned with minimal scratching and they look much better in general.   Pelican Parts can provide you with all the glass faces that you need for your gauge refurbishment.  The difference is absolutely remarkable, and it's also an improvement that you will notice every day you drive your car.

     All of the VDO Porsche gauges have faces that are attached with a ring that is bent and wrapped around the outer edge of the gauge.  The factory must have a pretty good tool for performing this, because the seal is both real good and also very smooth.  Any modifications or repair to the gauges requires the removal of this ring.


Figure 3: Removing Outer Retaining Ring

Figure 4: Removing Outer Ring and Face

Figure 5: Tachometer with Front Face Removed

Figure 6: Using Magic Marker on Rim of Gauge

     The removal procedure must be performed very carefully, otherwise the edge of your gauge will look like your dog has chewed on it.  To remove the outer ring, place a small screwdriver in-between the side of the gauge and the retaining ring.  Gently push out with the screw driver and pry a small section of the ring away from the wall. This is shown in Figure 3.  Repeat this process until you have pushed the retaining ring out from a little more than half of the gauge.  At this point, you should be able to remove this retaining ring by pulling on the ring, or by prying it off with a screw driver.  Remember to do this carefully or you will damage the retaining ring. When the ring is loose, it will come off of the gauge face as shown in Figure 4.

     After you remove the retaining ring, you should be able to remove the various rings and transparent face that cover the gauge.  Figure 5 shows all of the rings that came out of this early 914 tachometer.  Depending upon your gauge type and car, the mounting of the clear face may differ.  At this point, you should perform any repair or cleaning on the gauge that you need to do.  Remember to use a lint-free cloth when cleaning your gauge. Lint dust on a black background shows up really well if you don't.  Another useful tool is compressed air in a can (usually used to clean computer equipment).  Blow out any dust or debris prior to reassembly.

     The substitution of a glass face instead of the plastic one requires no modifications at all.  When reassembling the gauge, be sure to clean everything carefully and reassemble the gauge in its original configuration.  The retaining ring is reattached by fitting it over the gauge and bending back the edge that you previously bent away.  Make sure that the ring is on tight; you would hate to have the face of your gauge fall off while driving!  When you are finished, you can touch up the ring of the gauge with a black permanent marker (Figure 6).  It's a quick solution that actually works really well.  Your glass gauge faces will be a vast improvement that you will notice the next time, and every time you drive your car.


Figure 7: Rear of Odometer with Mounting Screws

Figure 8: Speedometer Mechanism

Figure 9: Speedometer Mechanism

Figure 10: Rear of Speedometer Drive

Figure 11: Odometer Drive Shaft

Figure 12: Top View of  Odometer Drive

Figure 13: Taped Wheel Set

Figure 14: Odometer Drive Without Shaft

Figure 15: Pot Metal Advance Gear

Figure 16: Right Two Number Wheels

Figure 17: Placing Taped Wheels in Mechanism

Figure 18: Front Face with Numbers Aligned

Figure 19: Final Assembly of Odometer Drive

Figure 20: Side View of Final Assembly of Odometer Drive

Odometer Repair

     The first repair job I ever attempted on my 914 was the repair of my odometer.  I had just gotten to LA, and had some time to kill before I moved into my apartment.  I decided to go look at some 914s in the newspaper in my spare time.  I found a gem of a car (the one I own now) and basically bought it on the spot.  I later had to park the 914 in the parking lot of the hotel I was staying at!  Needless to say, when I took my 914 to get insured, my insurance company wouldn't let me put it on my policy because the odometer was broken (silly of me for mentioning that to them).  That night in the hotel room with nothing more than a screw driver and a pocket knife, I took apart my odometer.

     Well, enough of the history.  The problem of the Porsche VDO odometer breaking is very common among all early Porsches.  I was amazed to find that my 1960 356 odometer was almost exactly the same as my 914 odometer and had the same problem (just a few parts that were metal in 1960 were now plastic in 1974).  The odometer didn't work, and when advancing the trip counter, the mileage would advance by one mile.  Having fixed this before on my 914, I quickly fixed the one in my 356.

     The basic problem with the odometers lies in the fact that a pot-metal gear that was originally press-fit onto the odometer drive shaft often comes loose.  When it is no longer adhering to the shaft, there is no way for the odometer to turn.  The solution, in a nutshell, is to remove and disassemble the mechanism, and to reattach this gear to the shaft.  Unfortunately, this is not as easy as it sounds.  For this project you will need the following:

  • Plenty of Patience

     Beware that the first time you put everything back together, you may make a mistake, and have to do it over again.  This has happened to me a couple of times.  One way to prevent this is to check to make sure everything works correctly after you finish a particular step.

     The first step in fixing your odometer is to remove the outer retaining ring and gauge face.  This was described earlier in the section, Gauge Face Refurbishment.  Once you have the face removed, the next step is to remove the speedometer and odometer mechanism.   Remove the two screws located on the back of the gauge, as shown in Figure 7.  With a little coaching, the internals of the gauge should slide out.

     Note: All of the photos that accompany this section show the gauge with the speedometer face and needle removed.  You should not remove the speedometer needle and gauge face.  This will require you to recalibrate your speedometer - not an easy job.  The only thing that you need to remove to perform the odometer repair is the odometer drive shaft.  The rest of the photos show the internals of the speedometer drive primarily for curiosity seekers.   Disassembling the speedometer assembly may certainly affect its accuracy in the future.  The speedometer mechanism, detached from the odometer mechanism, is shown in Figure 8 and Figure 9.  This speedometer mechanism mates into the back of the odometer mechanism, as shown Figure 10.

      The main failure point within the odometer is the pot-metal gear that is pressed onto the odometer drive shaft.  The shaft holds all of the number wheels together and is connected by a worm gear.  This shaft is shown in Figure 11.  The pot metal gear, shown on the right, needs to either be glued or deformed enough to be pressed back onto the shaft.To remove the shaft, simply pull on the gear that is on the opposite end of the pot metal gear.  This gear is shown on the left side of Figure 12.  To prevent the number wheels from coming loose and flying off everywhere, tape a small piece of tape across the assembly.  This way, the entire taped assembly can be removed and easily replaced later on (Figure 13).  It has also been brought to my attention that the wheels are difficult to remove without taking the faceplate off.  Beware that if you remove the needle, it may be difficult to recalibrate the gauge (see below).  The best advice that I have is to remove the small screws that hold the face on, and then rotate the face so that you can get the wheels out.

     After you remove the odometer drive shaft (Figure 14), you have a few options to make the repair.  You can try gluing the gear onto the shaft, but this is difficult as there is little clearance when the unit is finally assembled.  You can place some glue on the inside of the gear, and hope that it will be enough to hold the gear.  You can also roughen up the shaft a bit with some sand paper or a grinding wheel.  My recommendation is to actually deform the wheel by compressing it with vise grips or some other applicable tool.  Carefully squeeze the wheel at the points shown in Figure 15, until the inside become slightly oval.  On the 356 odometer, I found that the flanges on the wheel were a bit bigger, making this a much easier process.

     If the wheels are still together, and they haven't become separated from the tape, reassembly is a bit easier.  If the wheels have become jumbled, then reposition them in their proper order.  The two right most wheels are shown in Figure 16.  Make sure that the wheel with the extra white attachment (shown on right) is placed all the way on the right, and that the wheel with the copper metal insert is placed next to it.  To reassemble the odometer shaft, place all of the number wheels in the housing as shown in Figure 17.  Then insert the shaft through the wheels making sure that the numbers stay aligned.  At this point in time, you can set your odometer to anything that you would like, although experience tells me that it is hard to put the unit back together without messing up the specific number that you want.   Push the odometer driveshaft back into the housing and through the pot metal gear.   Depending upon how you decided to deform the wheel, this may take some force.   Make sure that all your numbers are lined up before pushing the shaft back into the pot metal gear. Check it by looking carefully at the face on the mechanism, as shown in Figure 18.  It is possible to have numbers that are half-turned and not even with the other numbers.   Getting this right may take more than one try - it does for me each time.  The final odometer mechanism is shown reassembled in Figure 19 and Figure 20.

     Place the odometer/speedometer mechanism back into the housing and mount it with the two screws you removed earlier.  You can test the operation of the unit using a hand drill in the calibration procedure described below.   Replace the gauge face and reattach the outer ring as described in the first section. Your gauge should work well for years to come!

     For the non-adventurous, Pelican Parts repairs these odometers, replacing the faces, and guarantees the results.  Send us some email if you would like this service performed on your gauge, or if you have any questions.



Figure 21: Calibration Setup

Speedometer Calibration and Check

    Do you think that you're speedometer might be internally uncalibrated?  You can check the accuracy of your speedometer by using the following method:

     Remove the speedometer from the car along with the trip meter reset cable.  For cars without the cable (356 gauges), you can get one from a 914.  Place one end of the reset cable into the back of the gauge, and clamp the other end in the chuck of a hand drill.  Figure 21 shows this setup.  Run the drill in reverse until the speed reaches about 60 mph.  Then wait until the right dial on the trip meter reaches zero.   Start the stop watch and carefully watch the trip meter.  After exactly one minute, the trip meter should read exactly one mile more than when you started.  If you reach the one mile point before the time is up, your speedometer is reading low.   If you reach the one mile point after the time has elapsed, then your speedometer is reading higher than it should.  You can use this method to check the speedometer at different speeds too.  If you're adventurous, you can use this method to recalibrate your gauge by removing the needle and replacing it on it's shaft.  This may or may not work depending upon how your speedometer became uncalibrated.

Speedometer Recalibration for Different Sized Tires

      Charles Davis ( adds the following information on recalibrating your speedometer for different sized tires:

A spedometer is an eddy current, a permanent magnet rotating close to a conductive disk or cup causes electrical current to flow in small rotating eddies. These currents, being "shorted out" by the continuous conductive disk, cause a drag torque. The torque produced is a function of several things, but primarily the velocity of the magnet and the flux produced by the magnet. The torque winds up a spring on the needle until the spring torque is the same as the eddy current torque.

To "calibrate" one, there are several ways:

1. change the spacing between the magnet and the disk or cup. The cup design was used (I believe) to eliminate the spacing as an assembly variable, so changing it with a cup type is difficult.

2. change the spring constant. I don’t know how this would be done.

3. change the amount of "magnetism" in the magnet.

In practice, I’ve only seen the last method used. The process is to magnetize the magnet fully, then demagnetize it a little until the speedometer produces the correct result. Normally, a speedometer is calibrated by rotating the input shaft at a stable, constant rate (such as 1000 RPM) and adjusting the magnet until it gives a known reading. Some speedometers have the input-output value printed on the case somewhere...not sure about VDO gages though...I see some "funny" numbers on mine, in addition to the part number, but none seem to be this type number. This type of calibration would make the speedo correct for the factory original tire size. It would be needed because magnets loose a little of their strength with time.

To compensate for a different size tire, you would have to do the math to determine the % difference to a standard tire (use the rolling radius spec) and then tell the guy doing the calibration to make it X% more or X% less.

Another method is to leave the speedo alone and add a small "transmission" in the drive line. I think these were common in old rally cars (the ones bafore computers took over). These "transmissions" could be adjusted to give many gear ratios (near 1:1), and thus correct for speedo errors. I think they did this by having hundreds of gear sets available? (Wayne, ask Tom...he might know about these? I don’t think they are used much now...perhaps someone has an old one they would sell?) The "transmission" was could be hidden under the dash.

Hope some of this helps.

Charles Davis

Figure 21: Gauge Module Removed from Rear

Figure 22: Interchangeable Gauge Module

Temp/Oil/Gas Module Replacement and Substitution

      The gauges used on many Porsches have interchangeable modules that can be switched quite easily.  The process is simple; simply unscrew the module from the rear and lift it out of the housing.  Figure 21 shows the rear of a gauge while Figure 22 shows a 911 druck press (oil pressure) module.  The swapping of modules is useful for a wide variety of tasks:

  • Swap 6V with 12V modules when converting a 356 to from 6V to 12V.
  • Replace your expensive and hard to find 912/356 temp sender with an inexpensive 914 one.  Replace both the sender and the temperature module in the gauge.
  • Add a temperature gauge to 914s that originally did not have one.
  • Add an oil pressure module to a 914 combination gauge.
  • Easily repair your gauge by swapping only the module that is broken.


     Well, there you have it.  If you can think of anything we left out, please let us know.   Please remember that Pelican Parts strives to offer great customer service coupled with reasonable prices on everything for your 914.  Help keep the tech articles coming by letting us earn your business.

After publishing this article, we received the following tips from Steve Anderson:

Name: Steve Anderson
Location: Richmond, VA
E-Mail <>
Vehicle: 1976 911 Targa with 1977 3.0 engine

     Recently, I encountered problems with the speedometer in my 1976 911. I read your tech tip article entitled, "Porsche Dashboard Gauge Repair and Refurbishment, Odometer Repair", and found it to be very informative, just as each of your articles have been. However, I was experiencing additional problems with my speedometer and I was also dealing with an electronic speedometer rather than a cable driven speedometer. But fortunately your article gave me enough information the confidence to tackle the troublesome speedometer and make a successful repair. I am including the symptoms that I experienced and the steps taken to resolve the problems, in case they could be useful to others. My terminology may not be correct, and due to this, if this is used please feel free to correct it as needed. Thank you for providing such an informative web site.


     After resetting the tripometer in my car, I realized that neither the tripometer nor the odometer would function. A constant clicking sound could be heard coming from the speedometer and the reset button was jerking with each click sound. Also the speedometer needle would not go beyond 90 kmh. Nor would the needle drop back to 0 kmh. The needle would remain at 90 kmh. I found that by pushing on the tripometer reset button would allow the speedometer to continue advancing but would then not go beyond 110 kmh. I would have to push the tripometer reset again to either allow the speedometer needle to reset to 0 kmh or to continue advancing. And neither the tripometer nor the odometer would advance in mileage.


     Using your tech tip article, "Porsche Dashboard Gauge Repair and Refurbishment, Odometer Repair", the speedometer was dismantled. I then loosened the retaining bolt holding the electric gear drive motor in place so that the remaining gears could be rotated freely. This is where I found the clicking sound being heard. Still pushing the tripometer reset button had no effect.. The speedometer needle could manually advanced but would not advance beyond 90 kmh unless the tripometer reset button was pushed, then the speedometer needle could be advanced to 110 kmh and the same problem would occur. I found one of the (for lack of proper terminology) locking tabs that is used to lock or unlock the numbered wheels on the tripometer to reset to 0, was not going back to its proper position. With this tab in the up or unlocked position the gears were attempting to turn the numbered wheels but were slipping or not engaging properly. Also with this tab in the up or unlocked position, the tab would catch and stop what appears to be the speedometer needle counterweight. By lightly pushing this tab back down to its proper position, the speedometer needle could be advanced through the full range of the speedometer without catching and stopping as it did previously. I then tested the tripometer and odometer by turning the gear closest to the drive motor. The tripometer and odometer advanced correctly without the clicking sound. The tripometer was reset in order to check its functionality. This test was also successful. Then I repeated each of these steps several times to test the complete functionality of the speedometer. Once I felt that the problem had been corrected, the main drive motor was tightened back down and the speedometer was put back together then reinstalled into the car. A final test drive was performed to verify the problems had been corrected and the tripometer reset would operate correctly. Now all is back to normal.

Fritz Lohss, adds:

     I would like to thank you for your article on VDO speedometer repair. It was very helpful and gave me the encouragement to do it myself. I have experience as a locksmith and that helped me to perform this task.

     I have some suggestions that should improve the article. After exposing the speedometer from the housing with a small screwdriver lightly try to rotate the pot metal gear. If it rotates then proceed. Pull the shaft out so that the pot metal gear can be removed. Loosen the gage panel screws to permit swinging the gage panel that will permit dropping the pot metal gear in your hand. Be careful not to disturb the gage needle. With the pot metal gear out, centerpunch the hub (outside), I did it two times l80 degrees apart.

     Reinstall the pot metal gear and use a small phillips screw driver shaft to facilitate the alignment from outside the housing. Lightly tap the shaft to its position. Check to ascertain that the pot metal gear does not rotate and is part of the shaft per above directions. Make sure that the gage needle is on top of the stop peg and tighten the two gage panel screws. Make sure all the numbers line up to the gage face. Reassemble the gage. Before installing the glass, use a battery variable speed drill with the switch on counter-clockwise setting. From a finishing nail pound and grind a square on the head that will fit the square speedometer drive. Set the trip meter to zero and run the drill for several “miles” to check the instrument. If everything is okay recrimp the ring around the glass cover. This should fix your speedometer.

Comments and Suggestions:
John Comments: Great stuff- I'm not as talented as some of your readers and have very little patience. Is there a shop in north county San Diego that I could take my 1974 911 coupe to have the gauges updated?
Would appreciate your help.

October 17, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check with your local Porsche club chapter. They will be able t recommend a shop. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
taylor Comments: Does this work for an 85 BMW e30?
January 24, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This article in particular is for older Porsches. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tow King SA Comments: Im converting a 318i to ford V6 carb motor. I bought a shell with no wiring from the 25pin round socket next to the fuse compartment. I need help to find oil n temp guage wires. PLEASE????!!!!
May 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: what year is the 318? - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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