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Pelican Technical Article:

Installing an Alarm
on Your BMW

Difficulty Level: 4
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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[click to enlarge]

     Nothing is worse than having your BMW stolen or messed with. Although many BMWs came from the factory with a keyless alarm system, many did not. The good news is you can easily install either a factory alarm unit or an aftermarket one in your car in a short amount of time. BMW designed the car to accept an alarm and pre-wired all the connections for the alarm to communicate with the rest of the car’s systems. Installation is a snap—basically, plug in the unit and it will integrate automatically with the ignition cutoff, the doors, the trunk, and the windows. Good aftermarket alarm units, such as those manufactured by Stellar, are an excellent choice in place of the factory unit. The Stellar units start at about $250 and add a host of additional features like a microwave proximity sensor, integrated window control, shock sensitivity, and/or remote starting. The unit I chose for my 325ic convertible was the basic unit with window control and a microwave sensor. The microwave sensor is very important for convertibles, as it sounds the alarm if anyone goes near the interior of your car with top down.

     The installation procedure is very easy. Simply remove the glove box from your car (see Photo 2). Then locate the factory alarm plug (see Photo 3). Plug in the unit and route it along the side of the electronics compartment. At this point, you can plug in all of the components and test to see if the system is working. If everything tests okay, pop out the center onboard computer (OBC), the unit that displays the time, date, etc. It simply pops out if you place a credit card in between the seam on the upper part of the unit. With the OBC out of the way, you can pull up on the lower console piece that contains the cigarette lighter. It should also pop right out. Drill a small hole for the alarm LED indicator, and mount the microwave sensor underneath as well.

     The microwave sensor will have at least two sensor adjustments on the unit that you may need to play with for quite a while to get the sensitivity just right. The ideal location for the microwave sensor is in the center of the car, as long as it’s not obstructed by metal. Microwaves will go through fabric, plastic, wood, and glass, but they won’t travel through metal. Start the adjustment process by putting the top and windows down. Start walking toward the car. If the alarm goes off before you get to the car, then you need to reduce the sensitivity. It will take many tries before you get the settings just right so that if someone waves their hand inside your convertible, the alarm will activate. The microwave sensor can also be used on nonconvertible cars, but since they are locked most of the time, they are usually not necessary.

     Route all the wires for the LED and the microwave sensor down the side of the center console and into the glove box. Use some nylon zip ties to constrain the wires to the frame of the car. Drill a small hole in the bottom of the kick panel, and install the valet button; you need to be able to press this button while turning the ignition on in the car.

     Installation of the siren is also very easy. If you’re not using a factory siren, then simply tap into the two existing siren wires with some electrical wiretaps. Mount the siren in the engine bay, toward the front right side of the car (see Photo 5).

Synchronizing remotes with an existing factory system

     More often than you might think, BMWs will be sold without the factory remotes that control the alarm system. Since the BMW factory alarm doesn’t arm itself automatically, you don’t need one of the remotes to use the car on a daily basis. Many times a car is sold and the new owner doesn’t even know that there’s a factory alarm system installed. If you pop open your glove box and discover a factory unit plugged into the wire harness, that’s excellent news—all you need now is a remote control and some time to reprogram it. Remote controls can be found for about $100 or so at the dealer, or you can typically pick up a used remote for much less at swap meets or Internet auction sites.

     On the E36 models (and many other BMW models), the factory installed two different alarm types. The early type is designated by the three-button rectangular remote and was installed in cars up to August 1995. Starting in September of that year, BMW began installing an updated system distinguished by a two-button, round remote control. Both of these systems can be programmed to be used with new or replacement remote controls. The three-button remote reprogramming involves swapping chips into your factory control unit; see Photo 6 for the exact procedure.

     The two-button remote can be reprogrammed without having to take apart the glove box. Simply perform the following procedure:

Prepare the car

1. Close all the doors, the trunk, and front hood.

2. The alarm must be placed into disarm mode (not armed and not activated). If this reprogramming procedure doesn’t work after attempting it a few times, you may have to pull out the glove box and disconnect the harness to the alarm unit (or pull the fuse) to reset it and put it into disarm mode.

3. Remove the key from the ignition.

Start code-learning mode

4. Open the rear trunk, and leave it raised and open.

5. Open the driver’s door and sit down in the driver’s seat.

6. While sitting in the driver’s seat, close the driver’s door.

7. Turn the ignition switch on, then off, five times. Do not start the engine. Simply turn the switch to the on position each time so all the dash warning lamps illuminate. Important: All five cycles of the ignition switch must be performed within 10 seconds.

     The entire sequence of steps (one through seven) must be performed within 45 seconds. When the steps are performed properly, the red alarm LED will illuminate continuously, and the alarm siren will sound a single chirp. This indicates that the code-learning mode has been started. Do not start the engine at this time.

Register remote ID codes

8. While remaining in the driver’s seat, open the driver’s door.

9. Close the driver’s door.

10. Press and release any button on the remote control unit you wish to register with the alarm unit. The alarm LED indicator will turn off momentarily to indicate that the ID code has been registered with the system.

11. For additional remotes (up to a total of four), repeat steps 8 through 10.

Exit the code-learning mode

12. Open the driver’s door, and get out of the car, but leave the door open.

13. Close the rear trunk.

14. Close the driver’s door. The alarm status LED will turn off, and the siren will sound a chirp twice.

15. The registration process should be complete and you should be able to use all the remotes that you registered with the system.

     If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Figure
Figure 1
This photo shows the complete alarm kit for a 325ic, manufactured by Stellar alarms. This kit is ideal for installation into your BMW because it tightly integrates with the BMW factory harness and all of the internal controls. Installation consists of basically just plugging it in. A: Connector that plugs into the Stellar alarm unit. B: Connector that plugs into the BMW factory alarm harness. C: Two fuses that protect the factory wiring and the alarm unit. D: Siren. E: Wire harness for microwave unit. F: Stellar alarm unit. G: Microwave proximity sensor. H: Valet button/configuration switch. I: Status LED. J: Two key chain alarm controllers.
Figure
Figure 2
Shown here is the glove box on an E36 (convertible). Removal is a snap—simply remove the six screws indicated by the yellow arrows. The lower screws can be a bit tough to remove using a normal or even a stubby screwdriver. I employed a right-angle driver for this process (right inset). With the screws removed, pop out the glove box lamp (left inset). With the lamp removed, you should be able to remove the 10-millimeter bolt that attaches the glove box to the frame of the car (green arrow).
Figure
Figure 3
Shown here is the electrical “spaghetti” that controls a lot of the car’s functions. In this photo, the Stellar alarm unit is shown installed on the right side of the compartment (blue arrow). The wire harness from the alarm unit is routed across the top of the compartment (green arrow). The 12-pin BMW alarm connector is very difficult to see, as it’s hidden in the back of the compartment (purple arrow).
Figure
Figure 4
After you pull out the onboard computer (OBC), you should be able to pull upward on the lower console to gain access for the installation of the LED alarm indicator (green arrow). Also shown here is the glass breakage (GB) sensor, which is part of the factory alarm system, indicated by the yellow arrow.
Figure
Figure 5

This photo shows the BMW factory alarm siren installed in the front right corner of the engine compartment (blue arrow). The yellow arrow shows the wire harness—if using an aftermarket alarm system, you may have to tap into this harness. The red arrow shows the factory siren mounting bracket.

Figure
Figure 6

Shown here is the BMW factory keyless alarm unit installed on cars up through August 1995. This controller works with the three-button remote shown in the left inset photo. The alarm controller is programmed to work with a specific remote by synchronizing the small chip in the remote to the alarm unit. Open up the alarm remote, and carefully remove the small chip (red arrow, lower right inset). Then pull out the alarm unit from your car, leaving the main wire harness attached. Insert the chip from the remote into the connector in the unit (blue arrow). Then turn on the ignition, and press the reset button for at least 10 seconds (green arrow). The red alarm indicator on your center console should flash, indicating that the codes have been read and accepted. Turn off the ignition, reinstall the chip in your remote, and test it—it should work! The later-style two-button remote used from September 1995 (upper right inset) uses a different synchronization method described in the main text.

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Comments and Suggestions:
ShaunComments: Hi Wayne, I have a 1994 e36 318i, Alarm button is on the key itself and has only 1 button. I have replaced the battery but it has no response when pressed. Will the coding procedure in this article work with this remote? Also, it only arms/disarms the alarm, is it possible to hook up the central locking to the alarm as well so when pressing the remote button both the alarm comes on and the doors lock.
March 19, 2012
RickComments: I have 1 1998 540I my doors were froze shut to i disarmed and armed w remote and door lock my car finally got door to open went to start and all is dead the I know it has an igition and fuel shut off how do I reset it so I can start the car?
March 19, 2012
verdiComments: I have a 1992 BMW 318i conv. e30 How can I use an e36 alarm and keyless entry? how would I hook it up. I can not find any write ups for this going back setup. thanks, Verdi
October 17, 2011
Buki5Comments: Question: I have a donor 97 m3 coupe with Factory alarm and remotes. I now have a 99 m3 coupe without factory alarm. Should there be any issues with this swap? What do I need besides the indicator light in the console, the horn under the hood and the main remote unit? Will I need to do any reprogramming on anything or is it truly plug and play? Any other suggestions you may have. Any other thoughts or suggestions?
September 24, 2011
cyrilComments: I want to unplug the OEM alarm and would like to know ,with the aid of any photos, where to find it on my bmw e36 325tds . I believe it is behind the glove box but not sure how to recognize it. Please help
August 2, 2011
FlaxmooreComments: Okay, dumb question. I see to route the siren under the hood, but how do I get there? Also, will mine also have the right wiring so I can just drop this in? I've a '93 318is.
June 15, 2011
KeeganComments: Hello- I was wondering if there is a way to determine if my alarm requires a chip? When I bought the car a never recieved a remote and just recently I think I have found an alarm that I never knew I had. When I open the little hatch on the box I do see a slot for what looks like a chip, but no chip. Any help would be great.

Thanks
April 13, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the box you have looks like the one in my photos in the article, then you do have the one that needs the chip. If it looks differently, then it may be an aftermarket alarm. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Martin250880Comments: Hi wayne thanks for getting back to me again.....
right here goes, all and i do mean all of my central locking motors were siezed, a quick strip down and service of the parts has repaired all of them, the 2 metal strips inside the motor that stiffens the mechanism had bent and therefore siezed the motors, they bent because of poorly refitted door cards that were restricting the lock button by on the inside of the door, bending back has fixed them, be warned stripping these motors is not for the faint hearted. I put everything back together and finally spliced my alarm to the central locking. The lock/unlock from your alarm should go to pins 17 and 4 on the yellow connector going into the central locking unit the middle one of the 3. the central locking requires a 12v pulse to either line to lock or unlock the doors. I took a 12v feed from the wierd plug thing in the glove box, i think its meant for a map reading light or something. This line supplies enough juice to blip the line and lock or unlock the doors via my new alarm, and het presto i now have an alarm that locks the doors, senses when doors are opened, remote starts the car, senses shock and microwave and has anti hijack kill switch and i did it all while leaving the exosting system in meaning the immobilisor on the key is still active. thanks for all your help mate.
April 9, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Cool, glad you got it figured out! - Wayne at Pelican Parts
martin250880Comments: hi, cheers for getting back to me wayne.... i have successfully installed my alarm, i left the old one where it was and fitted the new one with proximity and shock sensors, remote start, remote engine kill but im having a bugger of a time with the central locking. I have isolated the wires i need to splice into although i havent connected them, my central locking is not working at all, and didnt before i started the install. all doors must be manually locked with the key. my rear lights are working fine, i have checked the door switches and all work fine, basically im not suffering from the boot wiring harness problem, have you got any idea what the hell is wrong??? why wont my central locking work when everything else works fine??? the drivers door was the first to fail then the bootlid and passanger door failed a day or 2 later
March 30, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No clue as to why the central alarm is not working - have you checked to make sure that the door sensors are correctly indicating that the door is shut? The system will not let you lock the doors on the car if it thinks one of the doors is open. These switches fail all the time (see the doors article for more info), and I think that may be your problem. If that isn't the case and you can still lock all the doors electronically by turning the key, then you can simply hotwire into the key-turn switch and use that to electronically lock all the doors. Not ideal, but it should work. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
martin250880Comments: Hi I have a 1995 318is coupe with a factory alarm the one with the mechanical disarm key on the siren. I have ordered an alarm of the internet and want to fit it myself im not a dipstick and have done plenty of car electrical work before. My question is this..... can i remove the factory alarm easily?? if so how?? and if not can i piggy back the new system?? i mean can i just fit the new system and leave my factory unit disarmed sorry i should have mentioned i do not have a key or a fob for the factory system so its all but useless,
March 27, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe that if you unplug the factory alarm system, it should eliminate the problem, although sometime in the mid-1990s, they started equipping some of the cars with immobilizers that interface with the DME and the key and will not allow the car to start without the three of those all being programmed and in sync together. I would proceed cautiously. It may be easier for you to just buy a used fob and see if you can program it to work with the existing alarm system. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Jackson21265Comments: Hi i have a 1996 316, after having work done on the engine the mechanic cannot get the car to start the alarm goes off once the battery is connected. when i purchased the car i was not given a key fob for the car. I hear clicks from solenoids in the engine bay but nothing else, the led in the console by the gear stick has never come on. btw this is the first time i have heard the alarm work since i've had the car
February 17, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I'm not sure what to tell you on this one. On my BMWs, the alarm does not come on after the battery has been reconnected. Although on some aftermarket cars, the alarm does indeed come on (like the Viper that was on my Nissan truck). You had to reconnect the battery while holding your ears. I'm just guessing, but I think that someone installed an aftermarket alarm in your car. You might just have to disable it permanently if you no longer have any key fobs. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
TeiComments: My E36 328iC post 95 comes equipped with the alarm and has the siren installed. I'm actually the 3rd owner, but when I got it I was only given the master key. The convertible top has recently been having problems so when I feel like driving with it down, I've been doing it manually I already know how to resync so it's no big deal, but there's some other issues going on with that now. Anyhow having the top down with no sound alarm bothers me so I wanted to get around to adding a remote. I found someone with the same year as me with a remote parting out his M3, but he won't get around to selling it to me cause he says it's useless. With the information this site provides I figured I'd be able to program the remote to work with my car no problem. Or somehow replace a special chip? What should I get around to doing to having a alarm enabled remote?
February 16, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The alarm systems can be tricky - I would make sure that you install a factory alarm from the same year donor car, otherwise you might have some weird issues. You should be able to program the remotes as indicated here, but I would try to get an alarm system from a convertible car the same year as yours. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Freddy Fed Up Gaddles.Comments: Hi Wayne.
Freddy Gaddles here again.
Ok, now i am confused but we might be onto something.
I do not have the chip in my alarm box but your saying that therefore i must have the coded system but then you go on to say the coded system was used from 1995 and later.
I have a 1993 BMW 318i e36.
Get what i'm saying ?
SO... I was wondering if it could be possible that an original BMW alarm system from a later model BMW was fitted to my 1993 BMW ?
I am the third owner so i'm not 100% sure of the history of the car.
BUT... When i purchased the car 3 years ago it had a working 1 button remote.
It is my understanding that if it is an alarm system from a later model BMW then it should not have had a working 1 button remote.
Also if the alarm system is from a later model BMW then i would have expected to have been able to programme the 2 button remote to it that i purchased at the Ebay shop.
Should i try and programme the 2 button remote to it for the 8th time ?
Now it is possible that i haven't been able to disarm the alarm.
Can the alarm be disarmed without the need to disconnect the harness to the alarm unit or pull the fuse ?
I wouldn't really be confident on guessing what i was pulling on so was thinking if i disconnected the battery would that do the trick ?
Also would turning off the alarm beep beep thingy under the bonnet with the small key i have mean that it is disarmed or does it have to be turned to on ?
Also one last question.
I found the old 1 button remote that carked it on me in my sock drawer yesterday and was wondering if all else fails is it possible to have it repaired to be like new again ?

Thanks...
February 12, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've emailed you privately with some information. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Freddy Fuming GaddlesComments: Hmmmmm. Hi WAYNE.
Freddy Gaddles here.
I get what your saying. I'm not stupid.
BUT. When i asked my original question on if i would be able to programme a 1996 3 series BMW remote to my 1993 3 series BMW your answer should have been NO.
Now i'm not saying your as dizzy as a ferris wheel but your answer was quite confusing perhaps.
Anyhow not to worry.
I'm sure your intentions were good.
My alarm system is an original factory fitted one and the original remote was a 1 button remote.
The sheila on the Ebay who sold me the 2 button remote assured me i would be able to programme it to my alarm.
I tried and it didn't work so obviously i have had my nose skun again.
She will be getting bad feedback left that is for certain.
I have wasted $110.00 on 2 remotes in the past that didn't work and i am fed up to my back teeth with it.
I rang BMW and they have told me that the only remote that will work is one they will have to order in from BMW in Germany and it will take 5 weeks to get here and at a cost of $520.00.
So, I just won't eat for a week and do that.
I don't have a choice.
I know one thing for certain is i will never buy a BMW again.
February 11, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are two types of systems, the ones that have the chip, and the ones that do not. See Figure 6 for programming instructions. If your car has the chip, then you need the flat remote, which comes in 1-button or 3-button style. If you don't have the chip in your alarm box, then you have the coded system that was used from 1995 and later. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Freddy Friggin GaddlesComments: Hi Wayne.
Freddy Gaddles here AGAIN.
WTF ???? Ummm Errr Ummm. You told me the 2 button remote would work on my 1993 BMW 318i and now your saying that perhaps i don't have the right remote.
Are you crazy ?
Thanks for allowing me to waste my hard earned money on purchasing a remote you told me would work.
Thanks for nothing.
I'm not impressed AT ALL.
February 10, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, I said that it would work on cars after 1995. You have to match the remote in your car to the remote system that you have in your car. I stated that the three button remotes are programmed using the chip, and the two button ones can be programmed using the procedure stated above. I have no idea what alarm system you have in your car - if you need a replacement alarm key fob, then you need to match the key fob that you are purchasing with the alarm system that you have in your car. If you have the alarm module that has the chip, then you need to have a key fob with a chip. If you have the alarm system that doesn't use a chip, then you need the one without the chip. Sorry for the confusion. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Freddy GaddlesComments: Hi Wayne.
Freddy Gaddles here again.
I purchased the 2 button remote to replace the 1 button remote i had that carked it on me.
I followed the directions above dude but no go.
I'm not really sure i understand the disarm mode though.
Does that mean i turn the alarm off with the small key or do i have the alarm turned on but just pull the fuse and put it back in to disarm the alarm ?
Also would it make any difference that my boot knob thing. The thing that allows the boot light to come on when i open the boot is broken ?
February 10, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would guess that maybe you don't have the correct remote - it has to be matched to your year and model of car / alarm. I'm also not sure what you mean about the boot knob - you mean the lighted boot / alarm knob? I don't think that would make a difference with respect to the alarm. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
neilComments: hi. will this proximity alarm work on my 05 320cd ??????????????
February 9, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, I believe that there is a version that will fit your car. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Freddy GaddlesComments: Hi. I have a 1993 BMW 318i e36 4 door that was imported to Australia when new. It has a factory alarm and central locking but i have no remote. I have found a 2 button remote i can purchase second hand. I'm thinking it may be from a 1996 3 series BMW. Would i be able to program it to my car ? I do not have a chip in my control module behind the glove compartment as some do and some don't. Thanks..
February 4, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the three button alarms can be programmed by the installation of the chip, and the two button ones can be installed by the procedure shown in the tech article for the two button remotes (most cars after 1995). - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Diogo CardosoComments: Do you know anything about the System with the part number: 88 88 1 600 204? I bought one from a friend but it didn't come with the manual so I can't install it.
September 1, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, the best suggestion I have is to ask someone at the BMW dealer. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
ShirleyComments: My son has a 1997 BMW and his Alarm goes off like the car is being stolen they had to unhook all accessable from the Battery how can he fix that or how can he just ture off the Alarm and take it out
August 15, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's probably a bad door switch somewhere - you'll have to go through the car and test each one to make sure they are operating. Or perhaps the interior sensor is set to be way too sensitive? - Wayne at Pelican Parts
DrewComments: I found out what was wrong with my clutch, it was not the alarm. Somehow the pressure plate on my clutch had cracked in half. I never even heard of that happening before, it must have been defective, the clutch only had about 29K miles on it.
June 14, 2010
DrewComments: I just installed a Scytek alarm in my 97' E36. Right after I installed it I had trouble with my manual transmission not wanting to disengage and then shift into a new gear, when the car is off it shifts fine if I start the car and shift it works, but when I try to move it then the trouble starts. I am not sure if this is some kind of security feature that was triggered or if this is completely dis-related.
May 28, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not familiar with any security feature like that. Sounds like the alarm install guys messed something up - I would take it back to the shop that did the installation. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
DJComments: I am positive it is the alarm system.. I have gone through the entire electrical system and have came to that conclusion. everything thing has ohmed out and tested good. I have power to the coil just no signals going to it. I have no power going to the fuel pump and everything else works. I believe its a later model alarm that was installed but it is indeed a BMW factory alarm. I have found one module that has this P/N 88 88 1 600 204. It states it is a BMW Remote control vehicle security system. Is there just a way to wire around this? and thank you again.
April 27, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, I don't have any additional useful input. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
DJComments: I have an e30 that I have done an engine swap in and the alarm system is keeping it from sparking and getting fuel. how do I bypass this system or remove it? thank you for any help!
April 27, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: This is a tough questions, but on the later cars, you need to match the immobilizer to the DME. If you swap DMEs but not immobilizers then you will have the problems you're having. But, the E30 cars didn't have these, so unless you have a late-model E36 engine in the car, I'm not sure what the problem could be. I'm also not sure how you can determine that the alarm system is causing the problem. Difficult to diagnose over the Internet. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
bushmstr02Comments: I just had to replace my DME because of water damage on my 94 bmw 325i 4 dr. I have had no power going to the fuse for the pump . Now when I push the test light through the brwn / grn wire that goes to my fuel pump relay the relay cicks and I have power going to fuel pump . The test light wasn't lighting up before I changed the DME so I know the DME is working now . Do I have a grnd problem ? Can the factory alarm system shut down the fuel pump ? Does anything else turn off the fuel system ?
October 15, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: When you swap out the DME on these cars, you need to reprogram them so that they are matched to the immobilizer in the ignition key / alarm system. Otherwise, they will just sit there and do nothing. In general, I tell people to get the DME and the immobilizer together so there are no issues. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
HamzahComments: Hello hai Wayne, hopefully u may help and give me advise n guide. I had e36 318i year 95 right hand drive. My telltale lamps for electronic shift control light came up at Meter Panel and not go off. Every time when i clock in gear to D it move and brake a bit than when i press pedal it move normally. Please help. thks
October 9, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Transmission problems are tough - you really need to get the car to an expert who has the computer that is able to read the transmission fault codes to figure out what is going wrong. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
frankComments: hi there i bought an alarm basically the same as the Stellar unit shown in the pics,only trouble is that it hasnt got the end on the loom that fits into the BMW alarm loom,any help would be appreciated
October 7, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Alarms are pretty complicated and specific to each manufacturer - I would inquire with the company you bought it from. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
AsianSpankerComments: I bought your book 101 performance projects. I have a 1987 325iC and I noticed that your book says applicable years E:36 all. I have an E30. Would you recommend this stellar alarm hookup for the 1987 E-30 Vin: WBABB130XH8270089 Production Code BB13 also? tomdownard@juno.com
August 27, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Stellar sells alarms for the E30s too, although I am not an expert on them. Give our sales department a call at 1-888-280-7799 and one of my sales guys can help you out with this. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
RupertComments: Hi, i would like to know when to use the config button? My case is that the LED did not flash after the batt is disconnected. Believe that my alarm is disarm. I have tried to perform the learning mode, but fail. Any comment?
August 11, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Email me the details at wayne@pelicanparts.com - You didn't mention which car you have and/or the system used on it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts

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