Difficulty Level: 6 Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten
This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series. The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts. With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
There are some projects that seem like they should be relatively routine—and are very easy to perform on other cars—but are a huge pain on the BMW 3 Series cars. Replacing the starter is one of them. Most other cars I’ve worked on have had relatively accessible starters. If you are quick with the tools, you can have the starter replaced within 15 minutes on some engines. Not so with the 3 Series. The only way to replace the starter is to remove the intake manifold (Project 12) or remove the transmission (Project 43).
The first and most critical step in the removal process is to disconnect the battery from the car (Photo 1). This is very important, as live current is connected to the starter at all times. You can seriously injure yourself and damage your electrical system if you accidentally ground the large red wire connected to the starter.
To disconnect the battery, disconnect the negative, or ground lead from the battery. Always disconnect the negative or ground lead first—if you disconnect the positive/hot lead, there is a chance that your tool may touch the metal chassis. This could result in a short circuit, which would not bode well for you. The worst-case scenario might be if your wrench hit the chassis and was instantly welded there by the current, then the battery overheated and exploded because you couldn’t break the connection. In other words, don’t risk it—be sure to disconnect the ground first.
If your car has the original radio in it, be aware you will need the radio code if you disconnect the battery. The BMW dealer can look this up for you if you don’t have it, but that can be a huge pain, and most dealers will charge you for the service. Disconnecting the battery may also erase fault codes stored in your DME. To be on the safe side, I recommend you read your fuel injection fault codes prior to disconnecting the battery (see Projects 28 and 29).
You’ll need to remove either the manifold or transmission to access the starter. Once you have the manifold or transmission removed, the actual process of replacing the starter is not too difficult. Verify again that the battery is disconnected, and then unbolt the large, thick red wire harness that connects to the starter. Also disconnect the much smaller wire harness that plugs into the terminals on the back of the starter solenoid.
The starter is attached to the transmission case with two Torx bolts. Remove these bolts (see Project 43), and you should be able to lift the starter out of the engine compartment (if you removed the manifold first), or out the back of the engine (if the transmission was removed). Verify that your old starter looks the same as the new starter and has the same number of electrical connections on the back.
As indicated in Project 43, the nuts that hold the starter in place may be very difficult to hold when tightening up the bolts. This is definitely a job made easier with an assistant on hand. Have your assistant hold the nuts in the engine compartment while you tighten the bolts from underneath.
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Figure 1
The battery is located in the engine compartment on E30 cars, and in the rear trunk on E36 cars. Shown in this photo is a special BMW battery designed for the convertible (it’s larger and intended to withstand increased vibration). Always disconnect the black negative, or ground, connection first (green arrow). If you are not planning to remove the battery, this connection is all you need to disconnect—there is no need to disconnect the positive/hot lead to the battery. When you disconnect the ground from the battery, make sure you place or tape the ground lead aside. You don’t want it accidentally falling on the terminal of the battery while you’re working and accidentally connecting up the battery again. A handy device I like to install on all my cars is a battery cutoff switch (lower inset). Installation of this switch on the battery ground allows you to remove the green knob and shut off all power to the car. An added tip: Connect a small inline fuse from one end to the other, and a small amount of current will continue to flow, keeping your radio presets from being cleared out when the battery is disconnected. The E30 battery is shown in the upper inset.
Figure 2
Here is the view from the top of the E36 engine compartment with the intake manifold removed. The starter is relatively easy to access at this point (the starter’s solenoid shown by orange arrow); however, there are some hoses and cables that will still get in your way. The red arrow shows where the battery cable is connected to the wire harness. Danger: This wire is connected straight to the battery and is live unless the battery is disconnected. The blue arrow points to the starter control harness, and the green arrow points to one of the nuts that hold the starter to the transmission.
Figure 3
If you happen to have your transmission out of the car, it’s really easy to replace the starter. This photo shows the underside of the engine bay when the transmission has been removed. The starter is very accessible (yellow arrow), and removing it only takes about five minutes.
Comments: Hi Guys! Have a no start condition on my 98 318ti. I changed the starter. Starter tested bad, put in new one. Still not starting. Anyway, the easiest way we found to take out the starter was to remove the intake manifold. We actually were able to remove and reinstall both starter bolts from the top. It was aggravating don't get me wrong but that little 3/8" wrench is gonna be bronzed and mounted thanks to the idea from Actuator above this thread. It took 2 hrs to attempt the bottom bolt from the bottom and then we changed tactics and did it all from the top, done in 4 hours and that included taking manifold off and putting it back on and reinstalling everything. Definitely go from the top.
February 5, 2012
1st timer
Comments: This was the first time I ever reallly wrenched on a car. esp. by myself. Took ten hours, but I removed and replaced the starter on my own. lack of tools, know how, and information made it difficult. I did it. only problem is that I have a thick black wire left. I taped and labeled the starter wires. they are good and where they should be. Not sure where the other wire goes though. I completely removed the bracket too. and now that will not line up. Ive tried bending it over and over again to get it to line up. Car wont start, just clicks. has a 1 day old batteryNEW too. please please please help! thanks for reading!
December 2, 2011
new owner
Comments: what is the easiest way to change a starter on a1984 BMW733i
November 27, 2011
jassy
Comments: can i get the replacement of starter pictures in detail please.. :
because i've some confusion
October 15, 2011
jim
Comments: changing starter on 318ti remove intake manifold dipstick hoses around manifold disconnect battery loosen torx bolts with 3/8 box end wrench take starter out from top clean and lubricate inside of starter reverse to install worked for me
August 12, 2011
Joe
Comments: Thanks for the comments at least now I know what to expect.I am replacing the starter on a 92 BMW3181. I removed the bottom bolt and look like the top bolt is missing.Not sure because the starter is not bulging.
July 25, 2011
FrustratedDIY
Comments: Just finished replacing the starter on a BMW 2001 325i & I can truthfully say that I hope I never, ever have to do it again.
First, it's a manual transmission, so using the Bentley & Chilton manuals, I raised the car up to try to remove it from the bottom. Now I'm 6'6" with long arms, and even then it was difficult to reach the top bolt on the far right. I could get the left-most bolt, but never could get the right most. Right-left based driving position.
So, time to take the intake manifold off. What a joy! Dozens of electrical connectors/hoses to disconnect, label, and then find the bolt underneath the intake manifold that supports it. That was hard
The process to take off the intake manifold, which was exacerbated by trying to match reality to the instructions/photos in the instructions manuals, took about 4 hours.
Finally, I had access to the top left bolt. And it was so tight, that using a 12 point wrench started to strip it. Now, every DIYer has an E12 Torx Wrench, right? And guess what? Sears, Lowes, HD, Pepboys, Autozone... none of them carry that wrench, which is what is needed for the starter bolts.
I could order one online and receive the wrench in two business days.
But, my luck started turning. I found a Harbor Freight place open on Sunday until 6pm, and they had a set of 4 E Torx Wrenches for $7.99, in stock! Now, the bad news is they aren't ratchet style, nor are they curved, but they worked. There is just enough clearance to move the bolt about an eight of a turn with a straight wrench. Once I got it loose though, the 12 point curved wrench worked fine.
Now, it should just slide out, right? hmmm... Well, with some WD40 on the alignment pin shaft, and all of my weight 230 lbs, and a little wiggling, cursing, grunting, I got it loose and removed.
Off to the local auto parts store for testing. it failed Purchased a new starter, and now it's time to re-install. Simple, right?
Well, getting the starter to slide onto the alignment pin was about as easy as removing it. It took some channel locks and squeezing to get the starter to slide onto the pin.
Tighten the bolts, and don't even think that you can get a torque wrench in there, because a straight wrench barely fits.
And now the fun begins. Install intake manifold, dozens of connectors, and find out if it works. I'll let you know.
July 11, 2011
tc
Comments: I was able to r&r the starter on my 98 318ti w/manual tranny without removing any other parts beside loosen the fluid dip stick to gain more room. By using two 12" extensions, a wobble socket joint, a 3" extension and a torx socket in this order, with the vehicle on jack stands, I was able to reach the starter bolts from the top side of the tranny and remove it. After the starter is loosen, it can be tilted with the wiring side pointing down to remove the electical connections 3 total, then carefully lower it from underneath the vehicle. Installation is in reverse order. It does take some patience but it can be done in under 2 hrs. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable first.
May 31, 2011
Steve
Comments: Hello there - and greetings from Capetown. I have a BMW 540
A magnificent car, the starter works fine if the engine is
either cold or warm, but not if the engine is hot, untill it has cold down for +- 30 minutes. Then it is fine again. I need to clean and lightly lub the solenoid I think,but
how in the hell do I get at the dam starter. It must be
easier to change an engine on the space shuttle - any help
appreciated. I enjoy your tech. forum very much having had a 1994 325 as well as the 540 untill recently - Cheers Steve
November 19, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: On your car, the starter is indeed difficult to reach. It's under the manifold, or you can reach it by removing the transmission too. I recommend removing the manifold - there are a few articles in our tech section here showing how to do it both ways. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Markdas
Comments: Guys,
What about some information on the wiring please....idiots like me who have disconnect the starter during an engine change and thought they coudl remember all the connections! I put the new engine and ECU and engine harness in last night....I put the old starter back on and have the very large power supply cable from the bulkhead which has to go to the largest post or does this wire go to the alternator??? Then from the harness I have a medium sized red wire and two smaller blacks, all with spade bolt on terminals....help! I guess I need wires on the starter and the solenoid.....
Thanks in advance
Mark
September 23, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: The big wire can typically only reach the starter, so that's a no brainer (usually). The smaller wires connect to the spade terminals of the starter. In general, when I'm taking *anything* apart, I always grab the digital camera and shoot pics, even if I think I'm smart enough to remember how to put it back together. Because typically, I'm not. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
magicman
Comments: M42/E30 1991 318is starter motor replacement took roughly 15 minutes, three light solenoid connections and one main bolt into tranny housing; high torque needed to release bolt lying under body of starter which is virtually inaccessible to ordinary mortals. Once the main bolt was loose the motor was seduced out between vacuum hoses and electrical harness without any disconnection thereof.
April 25, 2010
Actuator
Comments: Actuator starter comments continued Now that you have access to your starter,use tape and mark the wire you will remove from the starter. Remove the battery wire and the two smaller wires. The smaller wires are a bit of a pain. I think I used an 8mm and 10mm socket for the small wires. Once the wires are removed you will probably have to tap and wiggle the starter back and forth to get it of of the tranny housing. This is because there is a locating pin on the starter which mates with the tranny housing. Once it is off the housing you will have to twist and turn it to get it down and past the steering shaft. It is not too difficult, you can do it! Now install your new starter. reassembly is in reverse order. Here is a note on the starter bolt torques. I was not able to use a torque wrench on the starter mount bolts because of limited access. Just use "German Torque" Goot and Tight. This Job should take about 4 to 5 hours. Hope this procedure is helpful.
Actuator
April 24, 2010
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Very helpful, thanks for the followup! - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Actuator
Comments: I just changed the starter on my 318ti. I did not have to remove the intake manifold, transmission or the engine. Start by disconnecting the positive and negative battery leads, then remove the oil dip stick, then the securing nut on the dip stick tube. then pull up on the dip stick tube and swing it forward and out of the way to give you room to work. Remove the oil breather tube from the intake manifold and the crankcase vent valve. next remove the heater core hoses from the heater core where they connect to the heater core fittings on the fire wall. Remove the heater control valve. Now you can access the starter bolts. A socket wrench will not fit inside the area around the starter bolts so you have to use a 3/8 inch drive breaker bar. Your breaker bar has to be able to allow less than 90 degrees movement so you can clear the fire wall to allow you to turn the bolts. You have to use a breaker bar because the area around the bolts on the tranny housing are too narrow to get a socket wrench straight on the bolts. You will need a "torques" type socket. Sorry I do not remember the exact size. You can buy a set at Sears for less than 20 dollars. Loosen the lower bolt on the starter first. It is the easiest of the two. Once you get it loose go to the upper bolt. It is the worst one to get to. You will have to push the loose hoses around to get to it. The starter bolts are very tight. I also had to use a cheater bar on the breaker bar to loosen the upper starter bolt. Just use a long 3/8 drive extension with a spark plug socket on the end of it for your cheater bar. After getting it loose you will have to remove the socket from the breaker bar and reinstall it again 90 or 180 degrees from where it was in order to get it back on the bolt. This is because you do not have much room to turn the bolt. I know, its a real pain but it works. Once you get the bolt loose you could possibly use a 1/4 inch drive flex handle socket wrench with a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter to remove the loosened bolts. I did not have one to try it. Once you get the bolts out of the starter jack up the front end of the car and install your jack stands. My car has two flexible fuel lines on the lower left side of the engine which blocked access to the starter. They are held in place by two plastic clips. Just pull them out of the clips and move them out of the way. Now you can access your starter. continued on another comment page.
April 24, 2010
MIK
Comments: DO YOU KNOW THE BOLT PATTERN FOR THE INTAKE MANIFOLD
February 4, 2010
MIK
Comments: WHAT IS THE EASIER WAY TO REPLACE THE STARTER DROP THE TRANNY OR REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD?
February 4, 2010
Bigdave
Comments: I have a Bentley manual but it is so vague only says to drop brace and fuel lines but it doesn't say anything about what tools or procedures...I keep hearing about torx bolts from other posts so are you saying the bolts go in from the transmission side???It is a 5spd
September 22, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Do you have a copy of my 101 Projects Book? (www.101projects.com) The starter replacement project is detailed over a few projects in there. Also, in the many tech articles on this site. As stated previously, you need to remove the intake manifold, and then you will have access to the starter. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Bigdave
Comments: Hey out there. I have a 1996 328ic that needs a starter...So far I have read three or four different ways to remove the starter...Which one is right for me??? And why can't you buy a manual that explains things more in depth... Thanks Bigdave
September 22, 2009
Followup from the Pelican Staff: It depends upon what else you're doing. If you're taking out the transmission, removal of the starter is easy. If you're not, then you need to remove the manifold on the top of the engine. Between my book and the Bentley manual, it should show you all that you need to know. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
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