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Pelican Technical Article:


BMW Transmission
Removal

Wayne R. Dempsey

Difficulty Level: 8
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.  The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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[click to enlarge]

     There are quite a few projects that require removing the transmission. An important one is clutch replacement. There are several steps you will need to perform prior to dropping your transmission: disconnect the battery, jack up the car, remove the exhaust, remove the driveshaft, and remove/disconnect the shifter.

     With these tasks completed, you can move to the side of the transmission and unbolt the slave cylinder. Also disconnect the backup lamp switch and detach its corresponding harness. If you are removing an automatic transmission, disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the left side (see Project 37) and the transmission control wire harness.

     Support the transmission with your floor jack, and remove the lower transmission support bar (see Project 38). Then, move the floor jack under the transmission and support it. Now undo the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.

     This is where the going gets tough. First, the bolts are special Torx head bolts that require special sockets to remove them. You need to apply a phenomenal amount of force to remove these bolts from the transmission. If you don’t have the right tools, you will not succeed. Buy yourself an external Torx socket set with sizes E6 through E16 (available from PelicanParts.com), and you will be covered for all of the bolts on the car. These Torx bolts are designed for applications where a good grip is required, and a lot of torque needs to be applied.

     The inset in Photo 3 shows two of the Torx bolts you will need to remove.These bolts will be very difficult to remove (see Photo 3 for bolt locations). Conversely, the bolts on the sides and bottom of the transmission will be relatively easy to remove. The two bolts at the top of the engine near the cylinder head are very difficult to remove, especially the one at the very top because there is no room to reach in to apply any significant amount of force. In order to remove the top bolt, I used the following tool combination: 3/8 Torx socket, 3/8 1-foot extension, 3/8 extension U-joint, 3/8 3-foot extension, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 3-foot 1/2 breaker bar. This combination of tools was the only way to reach the topmost bolt and remove it. I could place a smaller tool on the bolt, but then I had no leverage to remove it. With this combination of tools, hold the socket in place with your fingers and have an assistant rotate a breaker bar located about 3 feet from the engine.

     As if the top bolts weren’t enough of a pain, the starter bolts are even more difficult. Depending upon the year of your car, you may or may not have what is known as a “threaded starter.” If the starter housing is threaded, simply remove the bolts from underneath the car. If your starter has nonthreaded holes, place a wrench on the nuts that are on the opposite side of the bolts. This can be nearly impossible on the six-cylinder cars. In order to reach these nuts, you will need to remove the six-cylinder intake manifold, which is a huge project in itself (see Project 12). If you have a 318 (like the E36 318 used for the photos in this project), it is possible to squeeze your hand down into the engine compartment and reach them. The nuts in question are shown in Photo 4.

     Once these hard-to-reach nuts are removed, pull the transmission away from the rest of the engine. (Make sure you haven’t overlooked any bolts on the back side of the transmission; there’s at least one that holds on a metal shield.) Now, with the transmission supported on the jack, pull it away from the engine. If all of the bolts, hardware, and accessories are properly disconnected, the unit should simply pull apart. If it doesn’t, go back and double-check everything. It should pull away quite easily, so don’t use the iron grip of death to pull it out or you could damage something.

     Work slowly and carefully at this point. Make sure the transmission is well balanced on the jack—you don’t want it to accidentally fall on you. Also, be sure the transmission is well supported. Don’t let it hang on the center input shaft, as it could bend. Now, pull the transmission away from the car and lower it to the ground.

     If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Figure
Figure 1
The slave cylinder is located on the left side of the transmission (yellow arrow). Simply unbolt it and tie it out of the way. Don’t let it hang by its rubber hose.
Figure
Figure 2
Here is the backup lamp switch (blue arrow). Remove the connectors and also unclip the harness from the side of the transmission (inset). The yellow arrow indicates where the slave cylinder mounts.
Figure
Figure 3
This photo shows the flywheel end of the engine with the transmission and flywheel removed. The arrows indicate all of the headache bolts that need to be removed. They are mostly Torx bolts, similar to those in the photo inset. The red arrows indicate M-10 Torx bolts, the yellow arrows show the two M-10 Torx bolts that secure the starter, and the green arrows show M-8 Torx or regular bolts. Depending on which engine you have, the location and type of bolts may vary slightly.
Figure
Figure 4
Perhaps the most difficult are the starter bolts (E36 318 shown here). These are made even more difficult to remove if your starter (yellow arrow) does not have threaded holes on its flange and requires a nut, as shown in the photo (red arrow). The green arrow indicates the head of the Torx bolt that attaches to this nut. The light blue arrow shows one of the M-10 Torx bolts that screws into the engine case. In general, the nut on this side of the starter is much easier to get to than the one on the opposite side. You’ll likely drop one or two nuts while you’re working in this area, so have a magnetic pickup tool handy.
Figure
Figure 5
The engine (red arrow) and the transmission (green arrow) are ready to be separated. The transmission is supported by a floor jack and a 4x4 piece of wood. Place a jack stand underneath the engine sump to support it after the transmission has been removed.
Figure
Figure 6
Here’s the view from underneath as you pull the transmission away from the engine (manual transmission). The yellow arrow shows the engine; the green arrow indicates the metal shield wedged between the transmission and the engine block. The red arrow points to the flywheel, the purple arrow shows the pressure plate, and the blue arrow indicates the transmission.
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Comments and Suggestions:
EddieHamComments: Sorry, I didn't know that you had to register to get on the technical thread. This was posted in the wrong place. But what I meant was the gunk in the bell housing, that is just dirt, or ground particles, that has built up over the years. This is my first DIY trans job, and for a minute I thought I might have done something wrong by clean out the gunk in the bell housing. Then I thought about it and figured out that BMW would have used a tefflon spray or something other than a material that soo resembles the dirt on the outside of the trans.
I was worried for no reason for a sec, so thanks a lot.
July 25, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Nope, that's just dirt that indeed should be cleaned away when you perform a clutch job. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EddieHamComments: What if one has used brake parts cleaner to clean the inside of the transmission gear box on a 1989 bmw 325i. The interior where the release bearing and input shaft are located. It is clean as a whistle, but doesn't the abestos inside the gearbox need to be there to keep the heat down? And is there a way to replace the abestos, or a spray or a substitute that can be used?
July 23, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure what material you're referring to inside the transmission bell housing. I wouldn't worry about it, as I have never seen anything there on any other cars I've worked on. - Wayne at Pelican Parts

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