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Pelican Technical Article:


BMW Transmission
Removal

Difficulty Level: 8
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.  The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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[click to enlarge]

     There are quite a few projects that require removing the transmission. An important one is clutch replacement. There are several steps you will need to perform prior to dropping your transmission: disconnect the battery, jack up the car, remove the exhaust, remove the driveshaft, and remove/disconnect the shifter.

     With these tasks completed, you can move to the side of the transmission and unbolt the slave cylinder. Also disconnect the backup lamp switch and detach its corresponding harness. If you are removing an automatic transmission, disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the left side (see Project 37) and the transmission control wire harness.

     Support the transmission with your floor jack, and remove the lower transmission support bar (see Project 38). Then, move the floor jack under the transmission and support it. Now undo the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.

     This is where the going gets tough. First, the bolts are special Torx head bolts that require special sockets to remove them. You need to apply a phenomenal amount of force to remove these bolts from the transmission. If you don’t have the right tools, you will not succeed. Buy yourself an external Torx socket set with sizes E6 through E16 (available from PelicanParts.com), and you will be covered for all of the bolts on the car. These Torx bolts are designed for applications where a good grip is required, and a lot of torque needs to be applied.

     The inset in Photo 3 shows two of the Torx bolts you will need to remove.These bolts will be very difficult to remove (see Photo 3 for bolt locations). Conversely, the bolts on the sides and bottom of the transmission will be relatively easy to remove. The two bolts at the top of the engine near the cylinder head are very difficult to remove, especially the one at the very top because there is no room to reach in to apply any significant amount of force. In order to remove the top bolt, I used the following tool combination: 3/8 Torx socket, 3/8 1-foot extension, 3/8 extension U-joint, 3/8 3-foot extension, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 3-foot 1/2 breaker bar. This combination of tools was the only way to reach the topmost bolt and remove it. I could place a smaller tool on the bolt, but then I had no leverage to remove it. With this combination of tools, hold the socket in place with your fingers and have an assistant rotate a breaker bar located about 3 feet from the engine.

     As if the top bolts weren’t enough of a pain, the starter bolts are even more difficult. Depending upon the year of your car, you may or may not have what is known as a “threaded starter.” If the starter housing is threaded, simply remove the bolts from underneath the car. If your starter has nonthreaded holes, place a wrench on the nuts that are on the opposite side of the bolts. This can be nearly impossible on the six-cylinder cars. In order to reach these nuts, you will need to remove the six-cylinder intake manifold, which is a huge project in itself (see Project 12). If you have a 318 (like the E36 318 used for the photos in this project), it is possible to squeeze your hand down into the engine compartment and reach them. The nuts in question are shown in Photo 4.

     Once these hard-to-reach nuts are removed, pull the transmission away from the rest of the engine. (Make sure you haven’t overlooked any bolts on the back side of the transmission; there’s at least one that holds on a metal shield.) Now, with the transmission supported on the jack, pull it away from the engine. If all of the bolts, hardware, and accessories are properly disconnected, the unit should simply pull apart. If it doesn’t, go back and double-check everything. It should pull away quite easily, so don’t use the iron grip of death to pull it out or you could damage something.

     Work slowly and carefully at this point. Make sure the transmission is well balanced on the jack—you don’t want it to accidentally fall on you. Also, be sure the transmission is well supported. Don’t let it hang on the center input shaft, as it could bend. Now, pull the transmission away from the car and lower it to the ground.

     If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Figure
Figure 1
The slave cylinder is located on the left side of the transmission (yellow arrow). Simply unbolt it and tie it out of the way. Don’t let it hang by its rubber hose.
Figure
Figure 2
Here is the backup lamp switch (blue arrow). Remove the connectors and also unclip the harness from the side of the transmission (inset). The yellow arrow indicates where the slave cylinder mounts.
Figure
Figure 3
This photo shows the flywheel end of the engine with the transmission and flywheel removed. The arrows indicate all of the headache bolts that need to be removed. They are mostly Torx bolts, similar to those in the photo inset. The red arrows indicate M-10 Torx bolts, the yellow arrows show the two M-10 Torx bolts that secure the starter, and the green arrows show M-8 Torx or regular bolts. Depending on which engine you have, the location and type of bolts may vary slightly.
Figure
Figure 4
Perhaps the most difficult are the starter bolts (E36 318 shown here). These are made even more difficult to remove if your starter (yellow arrow) does not have threaded holes on its flange and requires a nut, as shown in the photo (red arrow). The green arrow indicates the head of the Torx bolt that attaches to this nut. The light blue arrow shows one of the M-10 Torx bolts that screws into the engine case. In general, the nut on this side of the starter is much easier to get to than the one on the opposite side. You’ll likely drop one or two nuts while you’re working in this area, so have a magnetic pickup tool handy.
Figure
Figure 5
The engine (red arrow) and the transmission (green arrow) are ready to be separated. The transmission is supported by a floor jack and a 4x4 piece of wood. Place a jack stand underneath the engine sump to support it after the transmission has been removed.
Figure
Figure 6
Here’s the view from underneath as you pull the transmission away from the engine (manual transmission). The yellow arrow shows the engine; the green arrow indicates the metal shield wedged between the transmission and the engine block. The red arrow points to the flywheel, the purple arrow shows the pressure plate, and the blue arrow indicates the transmission.
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Comments and Suggestions:
MissyruntComments: My son's automatic E36 was not shifting after 50 MPH so we replaced the transmission and the torque converter and now the gears don't engage. The fluid levels are good. Any ideas?
January 15, 2012
spokanevalleygirlComments: My son's 1989 BMW 325ix suddenly lost power and now will not engage into gear. Any suggestions on what it may be?
December 30, 2011
edComments: I have a 1998 740il automatic trans. When you take off from a stop, feels like first gear is slipping and when your setting at a stop light and let your foot off the brake it wants to skip and hop a liitle bit.Would fluid change help this?Stopped driving it until i can figure out whats going on. Thanks for any help.
December 25, 2011
jbbeemaComments: i have exactally same problem as bummedbmer, no 1st or 2nd in my auto 325ci.. whats wrong?
December 18, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi guys. Loud clunks on automatic transmissions are often a sign of low transmission fluid. Have you checked the fluid lately? It's not terribly easy to do, but it may solve your problem. I have an article on this here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto.htm

Other than that, I would suggest you have someone with a code reader take a look at it to see if there are any fault codes that are being put out by the unit. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
bummedbmerComments: have a 2001 325ci automatic. put it into reverse to leave a spot and it sounded like a big CLUNK. then put into drive and it wont go 1st or 2nd..only goes from 3rd gear...is this the trans gears that are shot or a sensor???? please help asap!!! thank you so much
November 28, 2011
JoshuaComments: Hey, I'm having the same issue as Anthony on his post back in June 9, 2011 - Anthony Comments: Hi there firstly great website has helped me alot. My question is i have removed all the bolts and wires around the gearbox and it has come out by about 3cm away from the engine but now seems to be jammed and wont come any further, Could this be something inside the gearbox jamming it? Thanks any help would be much appreciated. What could be the issue? I'm trying to get the transmission off and Bentley says just pull it off...but I pulled and pryed and no movement other than the 1 or so inch of space between the bell housing and the engine. Please help!
November 23, 2011
SteveComments: I have a problem with my auto gearbox I have a 1991 535I I installed a 1992 735I gearbox everything fit perfectly but when I select 1st with the selector the gearbox selects 2nd when i select 2nd the gearbox selects 1st when i select 3rd the gearbox selects 4th and when i select 4th the gearbox selects 3rd do you have any idea what is wrong?
September 3, 2011
jandppComments: Daniel_ls/v, did you get your problem solved? Tonight I have the same problem. I am replacing a M52TU motor from a 2000 323i automatic. The "donor" motor was mated to a manual transmission. I tighten everything down and nothing turns. I believe that the problem is a bearing inside the very end of the crank. It exists on the manual motor but was not present on the automatic motor. That bearing is pressing too tightly against the centering knob on the torque converter and needs to be removed. Now I need to figure out how to remove it.
August 4, 2011
baggedxplodrComments: i am pulling the trans out of a 99 528i and i'm unsure how to get to the converter bolts any info would help
June 21, 2011
BENJIComments: Hello ! I have a possible big problem? My friend fitted my transmission for me and upon completion, the clutch system needed bleeding. And i have tried many different ways to bleed it, without success the pedal is still soft as? but i have noticed that the clutch release lever inside the transmisssion has alot of play in it? My question is? That shouldn't this lever be on a spring? And thier should spring back into place when i press it threw the opening for the slave cylinder on the side of the gearbox? Has my friend made a major error? and thus, causing me a major HEADACHE ????????????????????!!!!!!!!!! I would be most grateful for your help on this situation. As I need wheels ASAP!!!
June 9, 2011
AnthonyComments: Hi there firstly great website has helped me alot. My question is i have removed all the bolts and wires around the gearbox and it has come out by about 3cm away from the engine but now seems to be jammed and wont come any further, Could this be something inside the gearbox jamming it? Thanks any help would be much appreciated.
June 9, 2011
Daniel_ls/vComments: hey there thank you for you quick response i forgot to mention that i am working on a automatic trans and torque converter that where in the car before hand same fly wheel everything is the same except the motor can it be a torque converter problem? maybe it is damaged inside? thanks again Daniel
April 19, 2011
Daniel_ls/vComments: i have a 1991 BMW 525i that i am doing a engine replacement on when i am trying to mate the motor to the trans and i fully tighten it up i can not turn crank over it binds up if i loosen it up so there is a gap of a 1/4 peace or a nickel it will move again is it the converter or do you have a better idea everything seams to line up fine donno im stumped
April 19, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've been in this same situation many times, with different cars. It's usually something silly. On one, I used the wrong pressure plate. On another, the throw-out bearing wasn't mating properly. I'm guessing that your clutch setup is not compatible with your transmission - if you haven't already take the old one and put it on the engine and see if that makes a difference. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
DintyComments: You mention 3/8 Torx socket for the largest bolts on the top of the transmission. I am preparing to remove my automatic trans for the first time and am running to the parts store tomorrow. What size Torx? Is that internal or external?
January 20, 2011
CharlesComments: 1998 z3 1.9 ltr with downing atlanta supercharger, 5 speed manual. Transmission pops of of first gear randomly upon takeoff. All other gears to include reverse work and shift smoothly. Any idea where i should start looking before i pull the trans ?
November 24, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check the shift bushings first, as they are cheaper to replace than working on the transmission. See the tech article in this section here for more details. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EddieHamComments: I seem to have come up with a very bad problem, with regards to my first DIY transmission re-build.
When the trans first went out it was in reverse, and would not dis-engage, unless the clutch pedal was depressed, and then it could be pushed either forward or backward, as the throw out bearing was then disengaged. After I replaced the pressure and clutch plate, I also replaced the slave cylinder, it was very worn, and then put the gear box back in the engine. The center bearing, in the front section of the drive shaft came unloose, just popped out when i was resting a air impact wrench on it. But luckily I paint marked the output flange on both it and the drive shaft, I also have re-tightened the clamping sleeve on the center bearing to the absolute limit, there is no play left in it. Now even if I depress the clutch pedal, the throw out bearing will not disengage, and the car can be driven in reverse, but it will not come out of reverse, and to push it forward one has to rock it back and forth and slam it forward for a few inches, and the fan can be seen to turn. I bled the slave cylinder, as best I could. What have I attached or done wrong?
Should I have made sure that the selector was in neutral before I put the gearbox back in? Have I over tightened the clamping slave on the drive shaft? Should I bleed the slave cylinder again?
Any suggestions will be a big help.
November 3, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, difficult to diagnose without having the car right here. My only suggestion is that your shift bushings may be really worn and you're not actually pushing the transmission into gear. When you have the transmission out of the car, it's a wise idea to inspect and replace the entire set of linkage bushings and actually test the proper operation of the transmission on the bench. Hope this helps. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EddieHamComments: What I meant to type, was now* "the flange will not turn, not now* that it is re-attached to the engine. So, turn the rear wheels till the holes line up? I'll give that a try. But could I still depress the clutch and then turn the flange at the back of the transmission? Thanks.
October 6, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, or just put the transmission into neutral. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EddieHamComments: My question is in regard to the drive shaft being re-connected to the tranmission output flange. Luckly, for me at least, when the trans went out it was already in reverse gear. I've got the gearbox back up in the vehicle, but to do so I had to turn the transmission output flange, I think you know what I am talking about. The triangle shaped part that projects out from the back of the gearbox and connects the transmission to the drive shaft.
Well, anywhooo, now the bolt holes are misaligned. I paint marked the drive shaft and the flange, so I know what hold the bolts go into. The 1989 BMW 325i, with a Gertrag transmission, seems to be still in rear gear. the flange will not turn, not that it is re-attached to the engine. Can I use a stick and a brick to depress the clutch and then turn the flange, so that it will align with the holes that match to the drive shaft, or should I just disconnect the drive shaft from where the center bearing connects to the drive shaft, and then turn it till the holes line up and then re-insert it into the drive shaft and tighten up the bolts?
October 5, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think you're over thinking this (or I'm not understanding it). Yes, you can turn your transmission, but the simpler way to achieve what you're trying to do is to simply hold one rear wheel (have a friend do this), and then turn the other wheel, which will turn the differential and the driveshaft. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EvitaComments: This is great but how would I know if it is a transmission problem? I have a 2005 325i BMW, I was driving and it automatically quit on the road. I can start the car but it will not move. someone told me it could be a link to the shifter that came lose. Before I take my car anywhere I need to get a little bit educated to make sure no one is going to rip me off.
September 19, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You won't know without taking a closer look at it. I would probably do some research on a good shop and then take it there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
pComments: i have a bmw e36 318 i'm losing alot of oil from the sump could that lose cylinder compression just need to find out
September 8, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Low compression due to oil loss is really only possible if the oil gets so low that your pistons don't get lubricated. Make sure your oil levels are proper. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EddieHamComments: Back again. I have a question about lubricating the release bearing. My Chilton manuals says that if the release bearing is plastic, then do not lubricate only clean it. My Haynes manual does not even acknowledge that there is a difference between a metal and plastic one. It has only instructions for a metal one and says to lubricate the inner collar. I plan on following the Chilton, it says I may get slippage of the clutch if I lube the plastic graphite what ever it is made of plastic release bearing, but my question is, Do I lube the fingers on the pressure plate? Like I said before, this is my first DIY manual transmission job, I want to do it right the first time. I can't see where a little lube on the pressure plate fingers would hurt that much. I am at a lost I don't want to mess this up. Tell me what to do. So I can be free of responsibility and blame :-.
August 4, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I like to put some grease on the throwout bearings, no matter what they are made of (on the inside / on the sliding part of the guide tube). I've never heard of lubricating the pressure plate fingers - I don't think those are a very high wear point because the bearing spins up almost immediately upon contact. I can't recall any clutch I've ever seen with significant and damaging wear there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
GEORGEComments: Can some one please tell me the bolt sizes of the transmission that is mounted onto the engine housing, i know that they are M-8 & M-10, BUT I NEED TO KNOW THE Thread Sizes ASAP.... THANKS GUYS
July 31, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm pretty sure they are all 1.5 pitch. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EddieHamComments: Sorry, I didn't know that you had to register to get on the technical thread. This was posted in the wrong place. But what I meant was the gunk in the bell housing, that is just dirt, or ground particles, that has built up over the years. This is my first DIY trans job, and for a minute I thought I might have done something wrong by clean out the gunk in the bell housing. Then I thought about it and figured out that BMW would have used a tefflon spray or something other than a material that soo resembles the dirt on the outside of the trans.
I was worried for no reason for a sec, so thanks a lot.
July 25, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Nope, that's just dirt that indeed should be cleaned away when you perform a clutch job. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EddieHamComments: What if one has used brake parts cleaner to clean the inside of the transmission gear box on a 1989 bmw 325i. The interior where the release bearing and input shaft are located. It is clean as a whistle, but doesn't the abestos inside the gearbox need to be there to keep the heat down? And is there a way to replace the abestos, or a spray or a substitute that can be used?
July 23, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure what material you're referring to inside the transmission bell housing. I wouldn't worry about it, as I have never seen anything there on any other cars I've worked on. - Wayne at Pelican Parts

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