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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Crankshaft Position
Sensor Replacement

Difficulty Level: 5
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.  The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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[click to enlarge]

     The crankshaft position sensor is very important to proper engine operation. If it fails or works intermittently, the engine will either barely run or not start at all. Fortunately, the engine’s main computer (DME) will indicate whether or not there are problems with the crankshaft position sensor. (See Project 28 for more details on reading fuel injection error codes.)

     The sensor itself is easy to reach and replace. On some models, however, the wire harness that connects the sensor to the rest of the car is hidden underneath the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold to replace the sensor. Or, you may be able to access it by reaching underneath the manifold—if you have skinny arms—and removing the oil filter housing first. Either way, getting to the harness connector is not easy.

     To replace the sensor, unscrew the 5-millimeter Allen bolt that attaches the sensor to the engine case. The sensor will always be mounted facing the toothed degree wheel attached to the front of the crankshaft. Depending upon which car you have, you may need to remove the radiator fan (see our radiator replacement article).

     Wire harness routing varies widely from car to car. On the E36 six-cylinder models, the harness is routed through a plastic cover and then underneath the intake manifold. Disconnect the wire harness from the engine, and replace the sensor. Be sure to route the new harness along the same path as the old harness.

     On some E30 cars (1984–1987) 325e/s models, there are two sensors that read the toothed crankshaft wheel. When replacing these, double-check that you don’t accidentally switch the two sensor plugs. They should be color-coded to match their receptacle plugs.

     If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Figure
Figure 1		The crankshaft position sensor (orange arrow) is relatively easy to get to. However, like the camshaft position sensor, the wire harness connection is hidden underneath the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold to replace the sensor; or, if you have skinny arms, you may be able to reach in there if you remove the oil filter housing first. The wire harness is integrated into an upper plastic guide (green arrow). The wire disappears beneath the VANOS solenoid and the intake manifold (blue arrow).
  Looking for more photos?  Click to see bonus pictures for this project.
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Comments and Suggestions:
viTOComments: i have bmw 320 in italy what i can LHD TO RHD
May 11, 2013
The DudeComments: Hi, I have a '95 318ti and my water pump blew out on me so I replaced that. Then while testing the pump after installing the car overheated and all of my relays got fried, so I replaced all those and now my car still wont start. I know I should also replace the thermostat when replacing a water pump but could that be why it won't start?
May 4, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's possible your thermostat is also faulty. However, if you overheated your vehicle you could have a aheadgasket issue as well.

When you say all of your rel;ays fired, I am stumped. This would not happen for no reason. DId you jump start vehicle and reverse the cables? If so you could have caused damage to your vehicle electrical system. - Nick at Pelican Parts
sickmikeComments: Hi, I am having a problem with my e30 and i think it might be the CPS.. It wants to start sometimes and when it does it holds idle for 1 second.. I can spray starter fluid and it will go.. so I'm kinda confused. Could this be a CPS issue?
May 2, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it runs when you add fuel, then engine has spark. This would tell me the crankshaft sensor is fine. The I would check if you are missing fuel pressure or fuel injector pulse. - Nick at Pelican Parts
andriy riccardoComments: my e 90 n47 2007 320d with no warnings atall after doing some 15 miles ok its starts to shut off over 2000 revs any help
April 14, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the check engine light ON? I would scan the DDE using a BMW scan tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts
PETERComments: MY BMW E36 1997 MODEL WOULD NOT START AFTER PARKING AT WORK IN THE MORNING 7:30. IN THE AFTERNOON 5PM THE CAR WOULD NOT START, I HAD A PROBLEM OF OVERHEATING WERE SOMETIMES THE RADIATOR FAN WOULD NOT KICK START AND SOMETIMES KICK START. I CHECKED THE FAN IS OKAY BUT THER CAR WOULD NOT START. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM?
March 25, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check to see if you are missing spark or fuel. - Nick at Pelican Parts
85e30manComments: hello i have a 85 318i it was running a little rough so i changed coil ran great for a hour then went over train tracks pretty rough and hard then my car mad a back fire noise then it turned off now it jus cranks and it back fires but it wont start any clues
March 3, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You'll have to see what is missing, preventing the engine from starting. Start by checking spark and fuel. let me know what you find. - Nick at Pelican Parts
gilbertComments: have 1993 318i i replace the crankshaft sensor, fuel injector, spark plugs, fuel pump, relay, spark plug wire, is cranks but won't start what could be the problem?
January 27, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check engine compression next. Does the engine have spark and injector pulse? - Nick at Pelican Parts
sharComments: hi have a bmw 316s that wont start driving it back the other day and it started missing and then just died theres no spark can you help
January 10, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check injector pulse also. If you are missing both, you may have a bad crankshaft sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts
mick64Comments: sorry i meant crankshaft sensor removal for 2002 1.8i auto please and i need it fast please,i know the sensor is at the rear of the engine under starter motor please
December 21, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: That engine is quite different than anything we have here in the US. I would guess that you can access the sensor from below the driver side of the engine, near the starter motor. maybe someone in our community can offer more help. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Mark LawingComments: 2004 525I when cold car starts and runs for about a minute and then cuts off. Will restart and continues to cut off until engine reaches operating temperature. DTC light comes on. Any help is appreciated! Thank You
November 9, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Start by checking the fault code stored in the DME. This information will help you pinpoint the problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts
sammieComments: Thanks for all the relevant info I got inconnection with cranksensors. Keep uP ,its twelve u
October 25, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts
M42Comments: Hi I am confused by the crank position sensor I can't figure the exact location becAuse my car has a M42 engine. a sensor on the front of engine and another sensor on the crank its self.
October 7, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The camshaft position sensor is located in the timing cover. The crankshaft position sensor is located at the rear of the crankcase near the transmission bell housing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bullComments: my 1986 bmw 325e will run for a short while then shut off It will not start no fire at dist then after awhile it start and run for another 10 or 20 miles then stalls again
September 10, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the crankshaft sensor (engine speed sensor) located at the bell housing of the transmission. If this sensor fails you will lose spark. - Nick at Pelican Parts
hebronComments: nov/87 325i conv. no start. removed and cleaned sensor covered with engine sludge and reinstalled with no luck. vehicle has been strong runner with maintained timing belts, etc. stopped running while waiting for light, and never restarted. approx. 150, 000 miles on car.
July 22, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check what you are missing. You need spark, air and fuel. You can check spark with this tool: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT447_pg9.htm and check fuel injector pulse with this set http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT447_pg9.htm or something similar. Once you identify what is missing I can help you further. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Harry Comments: Hello I'm lookin for a bit of advice I have a 1986 Bmw e30 325e its getin fuel but theirs no spark at the coil but its getin power changed it still no joy so changed ecu and crank shaft sensor distributor cap still notin can't figure it out
July 11, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Which crank sensor did you change? Your year could have a combined sensor near the crankshaft pulley or two at the transmission bell housing. - Nick at Pelican Parts
GeeComments: I have a 1984 633csi BMW. i been wondering were is the cam sensor located.Would that stop my fuel pump from coming on? then another thing how many cam sensor on this model? Is the speed sensor same as cam sensor, if so were that be located? one more thing were is my crank sensor on this car to? Hope to hear from you soon
May 16, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your vehicle uses a reference sensor and a TDC sensor. Both located in the bell housing of the transmission. These would not stop the fuel pump from turning on. You'll want to check your fuelpump relay. - Nick at Pelican Parts
JRComments: I have a 1989 BMW 325IS- Does the CPS read each tooth on the wheel or is there a certain piece on the wheel that the CPS reads? If so what does it look like?
March 19, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The crankshaft position sensor reads the entire toothed wheel. When the toothed wheel passes by the sensor an A/C voltageis created. - Nick at Pelican Parts
gonzoComments: where is cranksensor bmw318 ci se e46 52 reg
March 16, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The sensor is located at the fron of the engine. It reads a toothed wheel on the crankshaft pulley. - Nick at Pelican Parts
virgomomma30Comments: Hi I have a 02/95 BMW325i and it wont crank was told it was fuel pump and just replaced it but it still wont crank... what else she we try or check, i have swapped out relays and that didnt help.
February 13, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: When you say it won't crank, do you mean the engine will not start or it doesn't turn over?

I would check for spark, injector pulse and fuel pressure. Once you know what is missing you will be able to pinpoint the problem.- Nick at Pelican Parts
PeterComments: BMW dealer diagnosed intermittently dying E39 528i engine and replaced fuel pump & filter - didn't fix it. Control unit, flow sensor, plugs and everything else checked OK. Can it be anything else other than the crank position sensor? This doesn't show up clearly as a code error. Any advice appreciated. Great to have Pelican around to help so many owners. Thanks Pelican!
February 13, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Intermittent problems are tough.

If you can recreate the issue. Check the engine for sprak, injector pulse anf fuel pressure. If you are missing spark and injector pulse but have fuel pressure you may have abad crankshaft sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts
CorrellComments: I cannot find the crank sensor on the 2006 325i. please help!!!
January 30, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is located on the left side of the engine below the starter. - Nick at Pelican Parts
anneComments: Can anyone help with an 85 bmw 318i? Sensor/ looks like flat coiled brass? sensor, located to rt front of main air intake box, has lost it's lid airbox was not connected properly by last owner and I don't have cover to compare it to/ looks like MAP sensor guessing but don't know and don't want to spend so much without KNOWING/ Please fill me in if possible. thanks!
December 14, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your description isn't ringintg a bell. Can you share a photo of the sensor? - Nick at Pelican Parts
PJwoodComments: Hi, I have a 1997 328i. The check engine light is on, and the code says crank position sensor. I bought one from Pelican and went to change it, and there is not one there. The hole for it and its mounting bolt is there, but no sensor. Did this car not come with one?
November 17, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check to see if your model has the crankshaft sensor mounted near the flywheel of the engine. Check the left side of the engine, near starter. - Nick at Pelican Parts
kenComments: I have a 1998 540i and it usually kills the idling after i start it. for it to idle normally i have to give it some revvs and then it is fine. i was told that it is the air mass flow meter and the cam sensor and i bought them. when the sensor is plugged in it misses and the revs go up and down without me depressing the accelerator.
November 3, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are you stating the engine is stalling when you start it? Check the DME for fault codes. You could have a bad idle air control valve or a torn intake air boot. - Nick at Pelican Parts
KamikazeComments: Hi, your bonus photos do not have link. Can you make it work. Thanks
October 22, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, for this particular project, there aren't any additional bonus photos at this time. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
jimboComments: I have an 87 BMW 535 i that wont get spark.I was told by a mechanic that looked at my car for .5 an hour that it was 1 of the crank sensors. I have replaced both the crank sensors. the sensors were out of a wrecked vehicle so we are sure those parts werent what killed that car. still no spark. How many other parts could be the culprit.
September 22, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would try new parts. The reference sensor and cylinder ID sensor are both located at the flywheel. - Nick at Pelican Parts
lazaluksComments: Hello anyone who can help me,I have a 2002 318i bmw,it doesn't rev up and when u are driving up hill its doesn't have power,I have changed the airflow meter and the petrol pump,bt it didn't help.now the mechanic says its a pick up sensor which is the crack sensor,please help what can be the problem,ans on lazaluks@webmail.co.za,tx

September 21, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you checked for excessive backpressure? You could have a plugged exhaust system. Start by checking backpressure. Then fuel pressure and volume. - Nick at Pelican Parts
jbirdComments: i know my crank shaft position sensor is bad. Now my car is knocking. Mechanic says he did compression test. Says better look for new motor. But want advice. Can the cause of the knocking be related to the bad sensor
September 16, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: is it a mechanical knock? I would say it is unlikely that a bad crankshaft sensor is creating an engine knock. Unless it is skewing the timing and you are hearing engine detonation. Still, that would be a stretch.- Nick at Pelican Parts
CloudComments: Thank you all for advise!
August 15, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem! - Nick at Pelican Parts
PeteComments: I have an 84 325e, just bought it. I just picked up the bentley 3 series manual and can't find the sensor that's in the rear diff in this book. Is this sensor for speed? The book says the speed sensor is up by the transmission. So which 1 is for the speedometer? My speedometer isn't working along with the mileage read out.
Thanks, any help would be great.
I can't wait to check out this book also.
August 13, 2011
woodki1Comments: I have a 2006 325 BMW that will not run and has no power. Also barely cranks. Hooked up to computer and no fault codes will display. driven car and hooked up to computer still no fault code and still runs horrible. any advice?
August 12, 2011
AlexComments: Need Help! 2008 Regular Clubman with 65k miles, after about 30 minutes of running the car wants to stall at redlight or when slowing down, sometime the engine light will flash on. If I park for 20 minutes the problem goes away until I drive for 20 minutes again. Took car to dealership, changed plugs, coils, and cleaned injectors, code was #2 cylinder misfire, compression check showed no problems! They dealership wants to pull the #2 and cylinder and want 1500 dollars but will not promise this will fix issue! ANY help would be greatly apreciated! FYI car only started doing this after dealer changed thermostat and water pump due to engine light 3 months ago! I originally though I had gottne some bad gas, has been getting steadily worse, no coolant leak, and the dealer also did a smoke test with no bad results.
August 11, 2011
burvsComments: 1986 325e, turns over but does not start. Do the reference sensor and engine speed sensor come in to play here? They are the ones located on the bellhousing that have the two connectors by the starter. they both read around 980ohms resistance. I take it the crank position sensor is located on the passenger side of the block near the oil filter? If this sensor is screwed will it not deliver spark to the coil? Without an ossiliscope can I test the crank position sensor at home?
August 6, 2011
ElwoodComments: Hi, 94 325i won't start. There is no power to the fuel pump. Pump works when I hook it up to battery. I have checked from the pump connector all the way back to the DME thru the fuse, relays and wiring harness and see no indication of faulty relays, or wiring. DME giving no fault codes 1444. Pulled DME and no signs of corrosion, loose contacts. If the either the CAM/Crank sensors are bad should I get a fault code? OR if they are indeed good getting no codes but not reading properly ie metal plate inside broke/corroded would I still get a fault code? Thanks.
July 22, 2011
DeakonComments: Ive got a 95 328i and it won't start, it'll crank all day, but not start, sometimes when you try to start it it will fire a few times, but then die. Checked the fuel lines and pump and those are all fine. I had the head gasket replaced recently because of a oil leak and the mechanic said that the inside of the engine was extremely dirty. Would that cause the crankshaft position sensor to become blocked and cause it to not start? and in that case Im assuming I could just pull the sensor out and clean it off?
July 19, 2011
yellowComments: Can a BMW361 with crankshaft sensor on the block able to be changed to use the crankshaft sensor fitted on the front pully?.
July 14, 2011
bvladyComments: hellow i just finished my engine on a E36 325 from 1992.the engine worked perfect but after 1 week of driving with the car it wont star at all i cheked the gas pump relay and it work an now i took the crankshaft position sensor out and order a new one but im afraid my car stil wont start.i understand that this sensor has some thing to do with the spark plugs.please help me what could be the problem if it doesnt start.i will write here if it starts thanks
June 15, 2011
JamilaComments: Hi, I have an 87 BMW 325is and it starts and shuts right back off in about 7-9 seconds. I've just put a new fuel pump, rotator button, and coil. Still my car is doing the same thing. I was told it's most likely my crankshaft sensor. Is this true or could it be something else. Please help me.
May 2, 2011
nsargeComments: my e46 wouldnt start so i took battery out of rear of car,i took it into my house to charge it up over night, reconnected it but still wouldnt start, i now think it could be the crankshaft sensor after some internet reseach, but my mechanic cant get any fault codes to show up, is this because ive removed the battery from the car?
April 4, 2011
philsterComments: Ok, Here is the info for a 1985 BMW 325e 2.7L on the reference sensors. There are 2 sensors mounted on the drivers side bell housing. One is the Speed sensor and the other is the CPS or Crankshaft position sensor. There is one on the front of the engine and that is the TDC sensor. To replace the Crankshaft position sensor follow the cables up from the Bell housing and they will connect to a bracket on the engine. One connector will be grey and the other will be white or black. The grey connector will be your crankshaft position sensor. I believe it is bolted in with a number 5 Allen head bolt. Very easy swap, took me 10 mins.
March 18, 2011
makisComments: hi there i am an owner of e46 318ci 2003 model i have the following problem.the car idles slightly rough when in neutral gear & once the engine reaches operating temp.while ideling the revs go up & down on there own. is this a crankshaft sensor problem ?
thanx
March 16, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hunting at idle is a common problem associated with an improper mixture. I would read the codes from the car and see if there is a sensor problem, or perhaps a vacuum leak. See this article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts
iheartmysubieComments: hi, i have a 96 328i that I'm currently working on, and i used the fault code reader and it gave me the number for the Crankshaft Position Sensor so i go to replace it and first thing i do is pull the radiator hose on the left so i can see the sensor and its not there. i have the sensor in now but i don't know were it plugs in because i couldn't fallow the route of the old one. could i get a picture of were it plugs in please.
January 26, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Unfortunately, the plug is located way the heck down under the intake manifold. I have pics in my head gasket article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket/101-Projects-17-Head-Gasket.htm of all the parts under the manifold. You can squeeze your hand in there, but it's pretty difficult to reach the actual connector. At least that is how it is on the early 325s, I think it's the same on the later models. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
chas in ScotlandComments: I have just replaced the camshaft sensor on my E36 M44 ti. Whatever is possible on the 6cyl models there is no way on this earth that you can get at the plug without lifting the upper manifold. However that is not too difficult - you don't need to remove it- just lift it enough to get access. Remove the air intake trunk first. Disconnect the wee vacuum pipe at the front - it will be brittle so perhaps best to have a spare bit before you start. The 2 nuts and the log bolt holding the upper manifold to the lower are easy to undo - 11mm. That just leaves the supports front and back. There are 11mm head bolts supported on slotted black metal barackets front and back - just to support the weight of the manifold. Just loosen them enough to be able to lift the manifold up. The front one is easy but the rear one is ridiculously inaccessible. I have small hands and struggled with a 1/4inch socket driver- one ratchet click at a time. Patience is a virtue. With that you loose are free to waggle the manifold and lift it up enough to get at the plug - indicated by arrows in the photo. The sensor itself is east to remove from the front of the block with a 5mm allen key and there is a further bolt to the side of this supporting the cable guide which you need to remove to reinsert the new cable. Replacement is the reverse of removal as they say but make sure the manifold is seated and bolted down on the intake scews before tightening the support screws. Incidentlly no new O ring is supplied when you order a new sensor from BMW. Replacing the gasket between upper and lower manifold might be a good idea too.
January 26, 2011
RickComments: A friend of mine has a 95 318i. When the temperature drops the car will start and idle fine but when he revs the engine it will hit a 1000rpm and seem like the rev limiter kicks in. As the engine warms the rpm's increases along with the engine temperature. If he heats the crankshaft position sensor with a heat gun with the rest of the engine cold it will rev fine. He replaced the sensor but it didn't change anything. Any ideas?
January 20, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: This is an odd problem. The only thing I can think of is that the wire harness is a bit old and there is resistance in the harness that changes as the engine heats up. I would check the resistance between the DME and the sensor. Also make sure that the crankshaft sensor is firmly mounted, and also the sensor pickup points that the sensor reads are clean and clear of debris. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BanjomikeComments: I just replaced the timing belt on my 1987 325i. Along with this, I replaced plug wire harness, coil, dist. cap and rotor. It ran good for a week and then it began to miss slightly and randomly. Sometimes it would miss for a full minute and barely run. I have been over all my connections and cleaned the crank position sensor. I still have a "check" code and it continues to miss randomly. It continues to run very well but continues to miss randomly. I think it may be the crank sensor. Any help here would be very much appreciated.
January 17, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: 95% of the time, issues like these are caused by vacuum leaks. I would double-check to make sure all your boots and hoses are properly tight and have no cracks in them. I would guess this was the problem ahead of looking at the crank sensor. Typically when the crank sensor fails, the car won't run at all. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
ricardoComments: I just replaced the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor in a 1994 540i because it would not start. the crankshaft sensor was the problem and it is now fixed. My 2006 3weeks later will not start cold and I am ready to change that sensor. is there some thing in the chemicals their spreading on the roads this winter in Massachusetts that causing this.
January 11, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You might want to check inside the camshaft sensor area - the sensor picks up its signal from a rotating piece of metal on the cam. Same thing with the crankshaft sensor, but it's located outside of the car. Clean off the sensor and the wheel carefully and see if that helps. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BobComments: I have a 2000 X5 and could not locate the crankshaft position sensor. This vehicle has the 4.4 V-8. I looked diligently on the front of the engine. Finally located it. It is underneath at the rear of the engine. I just got done replacing it and had to remove the skid plate for access. I hope this helps.
January 3, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info on your crank sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts
d_masComments: Hello! I need to change my crankshaft sensor. I realized that using the fail code reader from this site. I already ordered the new sensor and the replacement wire but i can´t find the location of the sensor and i asked about the instalation of the sensor in four shop garages and they told me that i have the wrong sensor. But i´m sure my car is a euro 328i 96. And i bought for a 328i 96 with M52 engine. CAn you help me? Thanks
October 21, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be in a similar spot where it's shown in the article above - see the bonus pics for more detail. It's typically right next to the VANOS unit on the front of the engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
M50Comments: I'm having the same slipping problem that Vader reported on his August 15th, 2009 post here. I'm worried about stripping the bolt. I have no problem accessing the bolt but it just keep slipping. How do I deal with this?
October 16, 2010
BeemerComments: "The car will output an error code showing a fault with the sensor."

The battery was disconnected so there are no error codes. Now what?

Thnx for you help.
October 8, 2010
beemerComments: how do I know if my cas is bad?
October 7, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The car will output an error code showing a fault with the sensor. See the tech article on reading BMW fault codes. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
CornerCarverComments: My son has an E21 323i at college in Missouri. He said it has started to shut off intermittently but onced allowed to cool for a while usually fires right back up.

Likely CPS? If so is it located in the same place as the E30 shown in your article?
September 29, 2010
ToddComments: plugs 5-8
September 27, 2010
ToddComments: now the plugs 1-4
September 27, 2010
ToddComments: Ok I'm at work and have a little time to show you what I'm talikng about look at the crankcase sensor
September 27, 2010
ToddComments: Oh and when I pulled the crank sensor it was full of beige gunk and I was told that heat ,is hot radiator coolant can cause it to fail. A couple of times my radiator and components ruptured sending hot coolant in my engine bay in hot Arizona
September 26, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The sensor itself is probably still good, but there may be some stuff in there that is preventing it from reading the metal plate that spins on the camshaft. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
ToddComments: Thanks about trying to start and the code returns but it didn't and I ran the battery down again with no code. I have an X5 4.4 '01 and I know it's a sensor because it threw a code, right? How much for 2 cam sensors and crank sensor? It's gotta be one of them. By the way how do you test these Sensors out of the car?
September 26, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the sensors are bad, typically the car won't run. If they are giving bad signals, then you will see a code. If the engine backfires or misses, then you might see a camshaft sensor code when it's really a false code. If you have re-installed the sensors and the engine is not tripping codes, then I doubt that they are the problem.
ToddComments: My X5 4.4 cranks but wont start. I had to replace the alt, battery, and water pump. Now crank, no start. I had a code but I accidently erased it. I had dirty plugs which I'm gonna replace but I believe that my issue is the crankcase sensor. It might start but runs real rough then cuts out
September 22, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: After a few more non-starts, the code should return. If the engine is having trouble starting, it will almost always retrigger a code. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
old_robComments: Crank Shaft Sensor replacement write up seems good. I have a BMW 320d 2003 and I need to check the Crank Shaft Sensor. I assume your write-up is for the E46 petrol version, could you tell me where the sensor is for the deisel version?
August 26, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, we don't have those cars over here in the US, so I'm not sure. I imagine it would be in a similar position. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
suffyComments: Hi
i have a 1998 e36 bmw m3 evo. it broke down on me this morning. I plugged it into a snap on scanner and it came up with a fault code 138 it also said time out message 1? i have put this code into my autodata program but it is not recognised. At first i did think that my crank sensor has failed but know i dont know what this code means? can anyone please help me out?
August 23, 2010
PhilsterComments: 1985 BMW 325e 2.7 liter, Follow up. I was told this model did noy have a camshaft position sensor. If so where is it located
August 20, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: On that car, no, it only has a crankshaft sensor actually. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
philsterComments: 1985 325e 2.7 liter. Follow up. I thought the sensor on the front was the TDC sensor. I need the crank position sensor location
August 19, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi again. TDC sensor = crank position sensor. Perhaps you mean the camshaft sensor? - Wayne at Pelican Parts
PhilsterComments: 1985 bmw 325e 2.7 liter, where is the position sensor located
August 16, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be on the front of the engine, towards the left side of the car, near the toothed wheel on the crankshaft. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
boraboyComments: ANyone know the voltage and resistance of a normal operating CPS? Im trying to determine which one is faulty and perhaps design a better quality sensor more or less understand it a bit better. 50hz with 25ms so far.
August 15, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It doesn't work that way with voltage and resistance like a linear sensor (like a temp sensor). It sends out a pattern that the computer reads, you can see this pattern if you hook it up to an osciliscope and turn the engine over. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
ImanComments: I have a 1994 325i convertible. I am in the middle of doing the head gasket replacement and have decided to replace the crank position sensor among other things while I am at it. I got the allen bolt off connecting the unit to the bracket, but that sucker will not budge! Is there some special trick to get this of? I PB Blasted the heck out of it and it's not moving at all. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
August 10, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, these things can be difficult to remove at times, a lot of people break them removing them, and then have to drill them out. I'm not sure what would help, maybe trying when the engine was warm, and then dripping some cool fluid down onto the sensor itself (take one of those air-in-can things that you use to blow out dust in your computer, and then hold it upside down and drip the fluid on the sensor when the car is warm). That has worked for me a bit in the past when things were tough like this. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Auto-MarkComments: E36 M3 CRANK POSITION SENSOR - having just done this on my 1997 M3 sedan, I can verify that the sensor is located on the left rear side of the cylinder block, as shown in the graphic above. It is held in place by a 5mm hex allen bolt. The original sensor has a pigtail with a connector that snakes up to a junction with another connector, under the center cylinder intake manifold runners. Remove the air cleaner assembly, the alternator air feed duct, and the finned "beauty" cover for the intake runners to enable some albeit limited access and visibility to this area. The updated replacement crank sensor does not have a pigtail, but rather requires a new harness assembly with 4 connections. One is to the new sensor, the other is to the connector the original sensor pigtail routed to, and the other two splice in using existing connectors to the VANOS solenoid valve connector, at the top front of the engine. Note: don't go to the local auto parts store for this stuff - I bought and returned two sensors that were spec'd by their system but were not correct for the application.
May 27, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the good followup! - Wayne at Pelican Parts
AndrewComments: there seems to be a lot of confusion on this subject... I have a '96 328i, where is the sensor located at? I have heard front of the engine, by the transmision... Thanks for your help.
February 18, 2010
DNelson648Comments: How do you test the crank sensor to see if it is faulty ? OHM meter? if so what ohm reading should I get . my fuel pump relay will not activate all relays are good and fuse as well?? DNelson648
February 6, 2010
GregComments: I have a 2000 540 that all of a sudden cranks but does not run. I went to replace the crank sensor but the one I bought does not plug in. I have been having no problems. Parked it in the drive way and then went to leave and it just cranks and cranks. Any other ideas. There are no codes in the car but if it does not sense a problem then it might not throw a code? The part number I pulled out was 12.14.1.433.264 and the one it calls for and I ordered was 13.62.7.839.138. What should the car have?
January 9, 2010
Wayne at Pelican PartsComments: Here's a diagram of the 1997 M3 crank angle sensor according to the BMW factory documentation. It's number 18 on the diagram.
December 19, 2009
hefftoneComments: Looking for the Crankshaft position sensor on 97 M3...It is NOT mounted at the front off the engine, at approximately 10 o'clock from crank pulley, and timing marks. Where is it? Why did they move it?
December 16, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Looks like they moved it into the least accessible spot in the world, near the knock sensor! I will post a picture in a comment to this article. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
George ZurichComments: VADER is correct re not having to remove the intake manifold in order to change out the Crankshaft Position/RPM Sensor...at least I didn't have to on my '95 M3. The only thing I would add concerns removing the actual sensor from its mounting housing in E36 models. For some reason, the sensor on my M3 was so tight in the housing possible corrosion that I thought I'd never get it out without destroying something. I used penetrating oil and all manner of tools but it would only budge maybe 1/2 the distance needed to come out. SO...in desperation I tried prying it upward from the bottom of the sensor the bottom surface of the sensor nearest the toothed degree wheel. DON'T DO THIS!!!!!!!!!! The sensor's soft aluminum casing will spread out and deform so now you'll NEVER get it out of the housing. I had to play metal craftsman with a little hammer for 20 minutes reshaping the deformation back to its original round shape before I could eventually remove the sensor. Use plenty of penetrating oil and then 3-in-1 oil, take your time, and be gentle as possible.
November 19, 2009
stella65Comments: Hi,the xmas tree is not a picture of my engine.I had to call someone out to have a look at my beloved bmw 320i tourer because for the first time today it turned over but didnt start..it wanted to go i know it so theres something not quite right..normaly she purrs.Worried.Anyway the mechanic had a lookfortunately green flag..and before nearly running the battery down and ripping my starter motor before i stopped himunfortunately green flag..man leave my car alone!..god..his diagnosis was that i may need a crankshaft sensoror a new starter motor the way he carried on...if its a crankshaft sensor can i replace it myself,ive managed work like a spark plug replacement etc or is this beyond me?..or is it something else?..appreciate some guidance thanks
November 11, 2009
bajanComments: i have a 325i engine that just cut out i checked the pump no power but it working if u put external power to it but car was still not starting i then went for the crank senso and realisd it was not working and it does in fact turn on the spark and power to the fuel pump changed it and motor running as normal...hope this story is some use to someone
October 25, 2009
VXracing2k8Comments: hi i have a 1987 bmw 325i sport which is starting, but putting very poor quality spark out. so i have decided to try new crank sensor justing wondering could you put up a few pics and some advice for me to work off because i really don't know were to start.

any help will be Appreciated
October 5, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's probably not a weak spark, but something else. Try looking for vacuum leaks first, these are the most likely culprits. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
drews87325eM20Comments: I tried drilling a whole and using an extractor but, no go. Is there enough room to bang the sensor into the bellhousing? Is there anything in the bellhousing that might be in the way and prevent the broken sensor nfrom being banged into the bellhousing? I was also told I might have to remove the transmission to tap out broken sensor. I am at a loss. I can't drive the car, and it's either I take it to the shop and spend an obsene amount of money just to get the sensor out or, junk it.
Thanks for your help.
October 4, 2009
drews87325eM20Comments: Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the reply. Here are the pics of the sensor hole and you can kind of see that the other half of the sensor is stuck in there. I really don't know what to do or how to get it out. I PB Blasted it for almost two weeks, tried pulling it out, and even banging it in but, to no avail. Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad302/drews1987325m20/101_0649.jpg

http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad302/drews1987325m20/101_0654.jpg
October 3, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Maybe drill it out an use a thread extractor? I can't really see from this photo. - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
drews87325eM20Comments: Hi again,

I still see the metal piece of the sensor in the hole but, it still won't budge. The speed sensor came out without a problem but, the reference Crankshaft sensor just will not budge. So I have been hammering it inward toward the bellhousing hoping it will fall in there so I can be able to put the new one in the hole but, it won't budge. I don't know what else to do. I can't drive it to the shop and I can't spend all sorts of money on towing, and labor... There is nothing else I can do so, I will be waiting for your response. Thanks in advance...
October 2, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Send me some photos of the problem area, and I will take a closer look? - Wayne at Pelican Parts
drews87325eM20Comments: Hi.. I tried to remove the crankshaft sensor on my 1987 325e M20 located at the driver's side bellhousing but, it snapped! The other half is still in the sensor hole and it won't budge. I unfortunately scored the hole walls trying to bang it into the bellhousing because there is no way for me to pull it out of the hole. I don't know what to do.. Please help..
September 30, 2009
RussComments: Hi there... my son has a 1987 535i and we've determined that the speed sensor is bad because the vehicle won't start, gets no spark from the coil and the resistance between pin 1 and 2 is 'open' on the speed 'D', blacksensor rather than 930 ohms +-90 ohms. The reference sensor B reads correctly. It seemed like a piece of cake job but when we removed the mounting screw to slide the sensor out of the bell housing the sensor will spin around but will NOT come out! It's like there's a clip holding it inside or something. Is there a trick to sliding the sensor out? We're on the side of the road and it's been raining so we're really looking for that "silver-bullet". Everywhere we read in the manual it sounds like the sensor should just pull right out. We attempted the reference sensor as well but it won't pull out either. Thanks for you help in advance.....
September 1, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, one month later I'm assuming you're not still on the side of the road. There is a clip that it slides into, it's pretty easy to see with proper lighting and better access. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
bobbyComments: Thak you Wayne, for your answer,I just like to know if there was any chance, it may be the cranck sensor, I know I sure get the sacaner or code reader,long before,but money is tie,but i see, thank you very much, for your time,is good you guys,help any how.Bobby
August 26, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's impossible to tell if it's the crank sensor without pulling the code. But, a bad crank sensor will cause the car to not run. You can buy the code reader, or you can take the car to a shop and have them read the codes, but by the time you're done, it will be cheaper to do it yourself. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
bobbyComments: I have a 96 318is 4 cyl,how cut I know if the cranck sensor is my problem,the car won't start,wn't even kik the started,I turn the ign.swich and no a thing,in american cars,you know is the started,but BMW? I did change the started,ign.swich,and the DME,comp,and still won't kik,the satrted won,t move,I don't have a code scaner,but I have a miltimiter,thank you for your help, my hope is on you.
August 25, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You need to get the code scanner - we sell them in our tools section. Without it, you won't know what the problem is. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
VADERComments: As you can see here I got the Hex Bolt Out... It was tricky because it is slanted slightly and the Allen Wrench kept slipping!!! Now you have to try to get the actual sensor out of the housing which has a really tight hold!

Good Luck!
August 15, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you can't get a normal hex / Allen tool in there, they make ones with rounded ball ends that you can turn on an angle. Very useful for tight spaces. - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
VADERComments: Front of Engine Crank Shaft Sensor Location!
August 15, 2009
VADERComments: Hello!

First I'd Like To Say, "Great Write-Up on the Crank Shaft Sensor!" However, I would like to add to the write-up because there is a lot of info missing... 1st you really DON'T NEED TO PULL THE MANIFOLD AT ALL!!! Just pull out the Air Filter Housing, Disconnect the Coolant Thermo from the Air Filter Housing along with the Cruise Control Unit. Take those all the way out of the vehicle and set aside. 2nd Remove the Air Duct connected to the Alternator and set that aside. 3rd Remove the VANOS SENSOR and unscrew the two bolts from the housing! 4th Remove the Big Bolt under the VANOS unit and move the unit to the opposite side of the Oil Filter Housing! 5th You can now see the Crank Shaft Sensor and the Cam Shaft Sensor Connections to the rear of the engine from here, which is right under the Manifold, you can clearly reach in and grab the connectors right off of the metal connector holder, just slide it out! 6th There is a small wire-tie that holds the three sensor wires together at the bottom of the VANOS Sensor, sfreszuse wire cutters to "CAREFULLY" cut the wire-tie! you can replace this when you are done with a new wire tie.
7th un-tangle the sensor wires and un-route the Crank Shaft Sensor wire from under the VANOS unit and out of the Plastic Holder, then un-plug the Crank Shaft Sensor from the housing "Which may be a little tight and tricky to do" and replace it with the new Sensor!!! Re-Install everything and be happy...Your Done!!!
August 15, 2009
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