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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW Camshaft Position
Sensor Replacement

Difficulty Level: 5
Difficulty scale: Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a BMW Motor is level ten

 This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Wayne's new book, 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.  The book contains 272 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to timing the camshafts.   With more than 650+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any 3 Series owner's collection. The book was released in August 2006, and is available for ordering now. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 
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[click to enlarge]

     Your fuel injection computer (DME) may output a code that indicates a faulty camshaft position sensor (CPS). This important sensor tells the car’s computer where the engine is in its rotation with respect to the combustion cycle. The DME takes the signals from the cam position sensor and crankshaft position sensor, and calculates when to fire the fuel injectors and spark plugs. If the camshaft position sensor is not operating properly, your car will run very erratically or perhaps not at all.

     Replacement of the sensor itself is quite easy. First, remove the VANOS solenoid to gain access to the sensor (see Photo 2 of Project 18). Then, using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench, remove the sensor’s retaining bolt. The sensor should pull out of its location in the cylinder head. That’s the easy part. The tough part is disconnecting the electrical connectors located underneath the intake manifold. If you have really skinny hands, you may be able to reach under the manifold and disconnect it. However, I had to first remove the intake manifold (see our intake manifold removal article).

     Alternatively, you may be able to reach in there once you disconnect and remove the oil filter housing. The housing attaches to the engine block with six bolts, but to access them you have to remove the alternator and alternator mounting bracket. Use a new gasket when you reinstall it. Even though this is a pain, it is much easier than removing the entire intake manifold. Now that you have a clear path, use a new O-ring when you install the new camshaft position sensor.

     If you are doing a number of projects that require access under the intake manifold, I recommend removing it. While you have access, you can replace the knock sensors (Photo 22 of Project 17), the VANOS oil line (Project 18), the crankshaft position sensor (Project 15), and a host of other hoses and sensors that are normally hidden underneath the intake manifold.

     If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs.  If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one.  Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one.  As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

Figure
Figure 1
Shown here is the outside of the camshaft position sensor on a six-cylinder E36 engine. The inset shows a new O-ring installed into the head prior to sensor installation. Note the location of the VANOS oil line off to the right. The VANOS solenoid must be removed (Project 18) in order to reach the camshaft position sensor.
Figure
Figure 2
This photo shows the location of the camshaft position sensor on the E36 318 four-cylinder engine.
Figure
Figure 3
This photo shows the location of the camshaft position sensor on the E36 six-cylinder engine. As you can see, access to the electrical connector underneath the intake manifold is very difficult. Removing the oil filter housing will help, but you will still need long, skinny arms to reach in there and disconnect the harness. It may be easier to remove the intake manifold, particularly if you plan to replace other items such as the knock sensors.
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Comments and Suggestions:
Spuddy98Comments: On a 325xi you only need remove the air filter housing. The connector plug is right behind the alternator. No big deal in removing tricky parts. Maybe other models are different. Is there any diagnosis help? I have replaced the intake sensor and I still get the code occasionally. Could it be an exhaust code? Is there a way to confirm the wheel is in good shape?
May 7, 2012
Chris BComments: I have a 96 BMW 328ic convertible. It has the 6 cylinder engine and needs the crankshaft position sensor replaced. I used to be a mechanic years ago but mainly on Oldsmobiles and Nissans. I have the new sensor but I cannot locate the old one on the engine! It's not up front, the manual says it's supposed to be there, but it's not. The hole is there but no crankshaft position sensor. It's not under the intake. I pulled the intake and looked where some crank sensors were supposed to be located and guess what, it's not there either. What a mess now to put back together. I saw a video on youtube, one guy said it's in the back under the car near the transmission, well maybe it was there on his but not on mine.....so where is the "dang" thing? I kinda feel like writing BMW a letter and telling them to get their act together about placing their crank position sensors in ONE spot only. Anyone got any ideas for a location on this thing? Thanks, Chris B.
April 19, 2012
angel_eye328Comments: Hi.i have a 1992 E36 325i coupe.until now it wont start and i even send my car to the BMW dealer for diagnostic check.they said its the ecu problem.so i bought a used working ecu with the same part number but still it wont work.so i sent it to a local workshop that knows about bmw.he replaced the crankshaft position sensor upper and lower part.both sensors are new but still not working.he check the fuel pump and found out its not running,even the spark plug not firing at all.the mechanic say its something to do with the ecu so i bought another used working ecu.and still the engine wont start.can anyone help me??
April 8, 2012
chris 292Comments: hi , i have a bmw 318is 1998. the car runs fine untill it reachs normal running temp. then its starts stalling and backfireing when driveing , this may last up to 40 sec then the car will run fine again . when i stop the car and it cools down abit , the same thing happens. evey time please can u help me
April 6, 2012
Gazzy748Comments: Hi I have a 2001 320ci coupe and it chucks up p01501 code. I have replaced icv but I still get code come up after the car goes into limp mode when the eml and dsc light come on. I am at wits end at the moment. If I turn the car off and then start up straight away it clears for a short time, please help
March 13, 2012
TonyComments: Hi, I have a 02' 745i and it's throwing two codes, p0294 and p0012 can you please tell me what it is and how to fix it? Thanks alot
March 3, 2012
JoshComments: I have the exact same problem as phil from Nov. 16 2011 posting, would love to know how it got fixed?
February 27, 2012
fhoff33Comments: I have a 98 740i, while stopped at a light, the engine seems to miss like is going to stall for a split second but does not and idles properly, this will happen on and off while waiting at a light. Any ideas?
February 15, 2012
Bob vasComments: Have a 97 BMW 318i - problem- eng runs fine until it warms up drive between 4-10 miles. Engine stalles at stand still or if driving cuts out and back on. Once it gets over this hump, engine runs fine for rest of the day unless it cools completely down. Then have problem all over again. No trouble codes or check engine light.
February 7, 2012
BunnyComments: I have a 2008 BMW 328I and I have been told that my crankshift sensor is bad at 62,000 miles. Is this normal for my car?
February 2, 2012
ChuckgM3Comments: I have a 99 M3 that runs fine, with the exception of a slightly rough idle sometimes when the car is warm and a CEL. Peake scanner shows 6 misfire codes one for each cyl nothing else. Could this be attributed to a bad cam or crank sensor even though the DME does not throw codes specific to those senors and the car runs well?
January 12, 2012
martinez510Comments: I have a 1995 BMW 525i it runs great but it won't go in revers up hill not even up a drive way and its not even that seep. we believe that its the transmission but we rely don't now wats the problem . can u help me?
January 9, 2012
MoonComments: I have a BMW 525 I and my problem is that the vehicle starts fine as long as the tempature is 45 degrees and above but if if falls below 45 degrees, the fuel pump does not immediately kick in when you attempt to start the vehicle. It ususlly takes about 3 or more attempts before you can hear the fuel pump kicks on and the vehicle start.
December 29, 2011
louiex5 Comments: hi my na,e is louie from ct i have a 2003 745 now my car is puttering real bad and shuts off when i come to a stop i hooked up to the computer and it said my cam shaft is misfiring also 3 injectors are mis firing as well myu question is are the cam sensors throwing the injectors off if i fix the sensors will the injectors still be badd
December 11, 2011
manila45Comments: I have 98 e39 540i m62 that runs fine when cold, when warms up has rough idle & engine lacks power when driving not all cylinders firing, any ideas?
November 16, 2011
PhilComments: Im Having an odd fault with my cam sensors on an E46 318i, I had a broken exhaust cam sensor when i bought the car so i replaced it with a new one. Now when i start the car i get a misfire on cylinder 4. I have verified the sensor works as i have swapped the inlet/exhaust sensor and get readings from both individually with car diagnostics.

If i disconnect the exhaust cam sensor the car will not misfire and runs normally. if i connect up the sensor and start the car i get a misfire. But this is where it gets odd if i start the car with the exhaust sensor disconnected and connect it after the car runs properly with no misfires and i can read both sensors however back to misfire after engine restart. Its like the system does a check on start up that fails with both connected.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks
November 16, 2011
Chris WComments: What I meant to say was: I have swapped intake and exhaust on the solenoids and CPS and the code is always P0012.
November 10, 2011
Chris WComments: I have a 2008 BMW 328i, the problem I am having is at idle. The car will idle fine for a minute, then it will gradually get worse and worse until it stalls. When it stalls the engine lets out a whistling sound. The code I keep getting with my scanner is P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over - Retarded Bank1. Is this a bad VANOS solenoid or a bad camshaft position sensor? I have swapped intake and exhaust on the solenoids and CPS. The engine has alot of oil crud in it. Any help would be great.
November 10, 2011
nae-naeComments: I have a 2000 bmw 323i series, chech enjine light is on. Sometime car cuts off at a signal light, it will restart quickly, but sometimes won't pick up speed. I had two mechanics to tell me that it was the camshaft position sensor, took it to another dealers to get it replaced and was told it could be the camshaft, and their is another light talking about a recaled part. Please help! need car repaired quickly.
September 29, 2011
SusanComments: WAYNE...HELP!!! I have a 1998 BMW Z3 1.9 liter, E36 body. Check engine light came on, car running okay, not great, gave code for camshaft position sensor. Replaced with new one OEM, car wouldn't start, put old one back on, car started and ran okay but check engine light came back on. Assumed OEM part defective. Then replaced with Beck/Arnley camshaft position sensor. Car, again, would not start sputtered and choked. Took new one off, put old one back on and car started and continues to run okay but check engine light came back on. Please, thoughts or suggestions?
September 28, 2011
Ak47usaComments: Hi I have a 97 528i. just replaced the head gasket and 2 exhaust valves that were bent. I timed everything and when I start it up it wont idle, just dies. If i give it gas it will run, but very poorly. It sounds like it's giving a lean shot too, any ideas. Much appreciated.
August 20, 2011
rogerComments: i have a 99 bmw 323is E36 and im confuse in how maney camshaft sensors does it have i see one only so far if enyone have any info please help me thanks
August 14, 2011
SamanthaComments: I have BMW 318I 2005 MODEL, i need help please being a female you trust mechanis, and i have no car for about 5 days, my car doe snot want to start up it makes a wierd noise and nothing happens, i was told to chnage the crank sensor but still it doe snot start. What can i do please help desperate?
July 26, 2011
ElwoodComments: Hi, 94 325i won't start. There is no power to the fuel pump. Pump works when I hook it up to battery. I have checked from the pump connector all the way back to the DME thru the fuse, relays and wiring harness and see no indication of faulty relays, or wiring. DME giving no fault codes 1444. Pulled DME and no signs of corrosion, loose contacts. If the either the CAM/Crank sensors are bad should I get a fault code? OR if they are indeed good getting no codes but not reading properly ie metal plate inside broke/corroded would I still get a fault code? Thanks.
July 22, 2011
KCComments: I just recently bought at 99 328i with 123k miles. It idles extrmely rough and bogs down and shuts off occassionaly as well it is very slow to accelerate. My check engine light is on but I have not had it checked yet. Any one with any suggestions on what may be causing my problems? Any help is greatly appreciated!
July 19, 2011
MRHComments: I Wayne. I'm the one from european M3 3.0. I wrote some posts below. Thanks to you, i resolved the problem of my car - when warm, engine just start on second try and have oil in intake - i changed the oil separator. But now i have another problem. I cleaned again my ICV and now it isn't working. The car can´t idle, just starts with part trottle, and when i'm on the road i can't let the engine rpm down to idle, otherwise the engine cut off! If i let the revs down slowly the engine stand runing, but very rought, at 500 rpm! My questions: could the icv may have damage 100%? Could be the wires that plug in it, incorrectly fitted? Could some trottle cleaner reached the plug? Could be another problem?
Finally, If i decide to buy a new ICV do you see any problem in one from another brand than OEM bosch its to expensive? Or its better an used bosch? I'm getting mad with this car... Thank you again. Best regards. Marco
July 2, 2011
AmyComments: Oh sorry it is a bmw 740i 2000
June 26, 2011
AmyComments: Hi, HELPPPPPPPP PLEEESE! I went to start my car tonight and it crank over just fine, I then put it in reverse and it died. I then tried to start it back up and it clicks and clicks and clicks. Thinking it was the battery I thried again and click click click, then tried again and it started for 5 secs. more than died again. Now it just clicks and won't turn over to start at all. What could this be? Could this be the starter, Alt? My code reading said it was the cam sensor. But would it be doing this? Thanks, Amy
June 26, 2011
jnavarr121Comments: My 2001 325i gives a cam position sensor fault which is intermittent. Sometimes the engine runs great, but trying to start when hot is more difficult, taking several seconds before starting. Also when hot tends to stumble or stall when shifting from R to D or just coming to a stop occasionally. Other code that comes up is 1619.
June 7, 2011
josh12345Comments: hi this is a follow up on my bmw 328is 1996 had p0340 code bmw 65 replaced wires sensor then dme finally got light to turn off worked great for 1 month now its back re checked wires put sensor from good running car and cleared codes came right back. is there something else that can cause this i also have a evap valve code now could they maybe share a common ground i cant afford a new dme again and also dont want to risk killing a 3rd computer please help im out of ideas and bmw dealers have been no help at all
May 26, 2011
DeltaComments: Have 1987 325ic was driving today & car just shut down will not start, needs codes, had problems last summer was able to restart, fuel pump? Sensor? Could be alot of things
May 18, 2011
lettsComments: my E46 323 sometimes struggles to start the engine, and at times when driving it will just stop without showing anything then when try the engine again it will struggle to start then after few minutes it starts and on other ocassions it will just start without any problem, what could be the problem, was advised to replace fuel pump
May 10, 2011
debbieComments: Hello,
I had my mechanic replace the crankshaft sensor and my check engine light is still on and the car is running rough still. It is a 03 325 I any suggestions
May 4, 2011
cal meekerComments: sir, i have a 2002 mcoupe. no codes/faults but when cruisin along, there seems to be a strange miss or hesistation. almost like i was feathering the throttle with my foot. very frustrating, as otherwise the car is perfect, any ideas?
April 9, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The only suggestion I have would be to hook it up to some OBD-II monitoring software and take a data dump while you're driving. Then you'll be able to see the flubs that you're referring to? - Wayne at Pelican Parts
MRHComments: Hi Wayne. I post two coments before, about my car. It is a european E36 M3 S50B30 - 286hp. The photo was taken under the car, on the left side of the engine. What we see is a junction in the intake duct, but invisible to those who look from the engine compartment. I investigated, including your articles, and the oil in intake problaby come from cranckcase ventilation system - oil separator. Thank you again. Kind regards from Europe.
February 13, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Quite possible. The air-oil separator is an emissions device that pulls gases from the crankcase and then sends them back to the intake. I'm not sure about the Euro cars specifically though. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
MRHComments: Hi Wayne. You were right! One of this days i was working underneath the car when i found an oil leak. When i look carefully i found a HUGE vacuum leak on the junction of the air duct with air collector, as you can see in the picture. My answer now is if it's normal that oil on intake. Its true that i drive very hard before! Finally, the car still have a difficult start when engine's hot starts on 2/3th try. After all i checked before i think the problem is from main ECU. Someone told me could be Vanos ECU! The car runs fine, even on low and mid revs. What do you think? Thanks a lot again and congratulations for your experience and knowledge.
February 12, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's not normal to have oil leaks. I can't tell what I'm looking at from your photo unfortunately. If you had one vacuum leak, you might have more. You might want to smoke out the car with a smoke machine - see my article on doing this here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm

There is no such thing as a VANOS ecu, as far as I know (although I'm not exactly sure which car you have). ECU failures are not rare, but vacuum leaks and other component failures are much more common overall. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
 
SoldiurbluComments: Hi,
Great website and very informative forum, thanks.
Now to my problem and personal vendetor. I have recently acquired a european 1994 E36 320i MSport Coupe with a single Vanos. The vanos unit has been replaced very recently however the engine is a non runner. BMW have carried out a diagnostic and no faults were found, the ECU has been reprogrammed as that was questionable and still nothing. We are only receiving a spark from nos 2 and 5 cylinder, all sensors have been replaced except for the CPS and all Ignition Coils have been checked and are functional. I appreciate that this is quite a long and drawn out saga but I am now lost for ideas, can anyone help?
February 1, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No faults and no spark is very odd. I would think that maybe there's a problem with the DME, and I would see if you could swap it out with another one. If the car is not firing properly, then the DME *will* know that and will indeed report that as an error. If it doesn't, then there's probably something internally broken within the DME. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
IssacComments: my engine light came on for my 1998 328i, check showed a code 65 which reads "camshaft position sensor" i had that replaced, went back to the shop... they turned the light off just to come right back on after a few minutes. does anyone know a list of things i can have checked and how to check them without paying $100 an hour for the shops to do it for me... any help greatly appreciated thank you
February 1, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Okay, so we know that the cam sensor itself is not the problem. There can be a few other things to check. The cam sensor gets its reading from a metal plate inside the top of the cylinder head that spins past the sensor. You can check this to make sure that it's not coated with some sludge, or broken, etc. See the cylinder head gasket replacement article for pictures of this. You should also check the wiring from the sensor to the DME. The sensor may be replaced, but the wires that the sensor plugs into may be corroded or not making full contact. Trace them from the harness in the engine compartment back to the pins on the DME. If all of this checks out, then there might be an internal problem with the DME. Also check the connector on the DME to make sure the contacts are bright and shiny. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
SIHLEComments: I HAVE A 1995 525I M BMW IT SEEMS LIKE MY CRANKSHAFT SENSOR PACKED UP COULD ANYONE HELP ME.
January 15, 2011
steveComments: I have been looking everywhere to find an article on how to replace my crankshaft positioning sensor. Can anyone give me a hand on where to find this information.
January 15, 2011
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I made a mistake and misread "crankshaft" as "camshaft" initially. Next time don't be so rude. Here's the link: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-15-Crankshaft-Sensor/101-Projects-15-Crankshaft-Sensor.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts
josh12345Comments: hi this is a follow up on my 96 328is i changed cps then clear codes light went off on the dash restarted car and light stayed on i then tested harness then jumped each of the 3 wires at the cps plug and pluged directly into the dme ecu cleared code light went off when i restarted car light cam right back on i dont think my scanner is the problem as it removed the evap leak code no problem and it hasnt returned .also the original cam sensor wires were missing their coating and touching each other could that have killed that circuit on my dme ecu
December 17, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Indeed, a short circuit may have fried that circuit on your ECU. At this point, I think you're on the right track - the ECU is probably the culprit. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
EmcarrComments: Hi, I have a 1996 318is, when start up in the morning it will struggling to fire properly. It only does this once when it is warming up and work ok for the day.
Any sugestion?
Thanks
December 10, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pull the trouble codes and see what the computer is trying to tell you. See the tech article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts
KonradComments: Hi, I have a problem with my '93 325is.I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay and fuse.I cleaned the fuel injectors and i replaced the o-rings.And my car sometimes won't start.Fuel pump is not getting power.Is that because the Camshaft Position
Sensor is bad?
December 9, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Perhaps, but if it were bad, the computer would be outputting error codes. Use my article to check the codes: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts
GraphComments: I have 2000-328i w/65k miles and I've had the following problem
since it had 25K miles on it: During cold weather months only, and
during idle only, about every 15-30 seconds, there's a quick dip in
RPM's and sometimes it will stall. Once the engine temp reaches about
100ºF it idles smoothly. The problem only happens when the air temperature
gets down to about 45º. No codes and I've been to two BMW dealerships
and neither one could solve the problem.
December 2, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a vacuum leak to me that only happens when it's cold. I wrote an article on checking for leaks here, you might find it useful: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts
josh12345Comments: hi i bought a 96 bmw 328is with a check engine light on and ran the scanner snap on solus. code p0340 or 65 came up so i tested the wireing for the camshaft position sensor it was fine so i replaced the sensor and cleared the codes and code p0340 came right back up other than the pcm is there anything else that im overlooking
December 1, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Those generic code readers can sometimes give odd or erroneous codes that don't match the proper ones for BMW. I would check it with another scanner. If the problem persists and the code is correct, then the problem most likely lies with the wire harness to the sensor - check it from the sensor plug back to the DME. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
MRHComments: Hi Wayne! Thank you very much for your atention. There is something more to tell. The bmw workshop told me, that maybe is the DME. Another people says its certainly something going wrong on intake, maybe a tight barely manifold...or, the bmw workshop poorly cleaned the ICV!!! It's curious that the car when is working on idlle misfires, and it increases as the engine heats up. Would you like to give a last opinion about it? Thank you very much again. PS: The car runs very well...
November 16, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would triple-check for vacuum leaks. I have a really good article on hunting for them here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks/21-FUEL-Vacuum_Leaks.htm - Wayne at Pelican Parts
purnellComments: I have a 2003 525i BMW how many camshaft sensor are there and where are they located
October 31, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: On that car, there should be one camshaft position sensor, and it should be located in the same spot as is indicated in the article. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
rishi bComments: Hello,
Very good info guys... I have 1 quick question, How does one tell the direction of the fan? is it you facing the ingine or the other way around? I want to change the fan clutch...
October 25, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The nut is a reverse thread as your standing in front of the engine. So, you turn it clockwise to loosen (the opposite of normal). - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
MRHComments: Hi! Congratulations for those who create this site! I have a bmw e36 m3 coupe, european version. The car don't start, at 1st try when engine is hot! I change almost everything, crankshaf, camshaft and temperature sensor, clean IVC. The gas pressure, cylinder compression and coils were cheked. The injectors was cleaned... The car is on a bmw workshop and became a case study. They are unable to resolve it... Can somebody help me? Best regards.
October 22, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, here are some thoughts. Check the fuel pressure for vapor lock in the lines. Also check the wire harnesses - as they heat up sometimes they can separate and show problems that would not normally show up when cold. If the car won't start, check fuel pressure and spark (diagnosis the old fashioned way), and see what you're missing. It may be that the heat may be affecting the DME too. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
ryanComments: I have a 1999 e36 bmw. my cars check engine light came on i checked the code and it was the camshaft position sensor so i put a new one on. now i have the power i lost back but my check engine light wont go off i tryed clearing it with the cheap autozone scanner and it wont clear it. does anyone no why it would still be on or how to clear it.
October 21, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's probably the scanner that is not able to clear it. The Peake Research tool clears the codes quite well. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
PavloComments: Hi, Thanks for all the brilliant articles, I have A 98 E39 523I Auto. It developed a huge power loss, and eventually died on me going up hill. As it got worse it developed a tapping noise, and started blowing white smoke from the exhaust. It now will not start.
Any Idea?
Many Thanks.
October 18, 2010
StephenComments: I just replaced my clutch flyweel, and all my tranmission bushings and washers using your diy. I put the car back together, and my asc light is on, and I have a code for the crankshaft postition sensor. COuld this be becuse I was turning the dirveshaft to get to the bolts? DId I damage the engine any or will the sensor fix the issue? THanks. I have not tried to bleed the system, and I thnk that may be the problem with the asc.
October 12, 2010
ToddComments: How can you tell/check if the camshaft sensor is faulty when the code has been eerased and won't come bask on and the vehicle runs erratic. Can you test it outside and off the engine. Can it be bench tested? I have a X5 with two of these sensors.
September 27, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the sensors are bad, typically the car won't run. If they are giving bad signals, then you will see a code. If the engine backfires or misses, then you might see a camshaft sensor code when it's really a false code. If you have re-installed the sensors and the engine is not tripping codes, then I doubt that they are the problem. - Wayne at Pelican Parts 
preatoriansComments: i have a bmw e36 318i single overhead cam its not starting not sure on the rocker arms what tensions should they be and should they be loose or should they be small movement or no movement thanks
September 12, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pull the error codes from the computer before doing anything else - it will probably tell you what the issue is. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
BigMykeComments: I went to get my 2001 325i inspected and the Cps code for the exhaust popped up. I got it replaced drove it about 150miles and the engine light came back on and had the same code pop back up. Could something else be causing this code?
August 23, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be related to the VANOS unit, or it could even be related to the type / weight of oil that you're using (if the VANOS doesn't like it). Change up the oil weight with something a bit different, clear the code, and see what happens? (wild guess) - Wayne at Pelican Parts
DaveComments: I have a 325i BMW-2001 and trying to remove the vanos solenoid to do a camshaft sensor replacement. My problem is that my canos solenoid is extremely tight so I cant remove it.Also used loosining oil and nothing. Dont want to brake it.. found different info at different forums online but nothing im doing it clockwise from the front of the car
August 21, 2010
doublem94Comments: hi. thanks for the article. I have a weird problem. My 96 328i stick wont accel past 5000 rpms, acting like it has a governor. The codes I pulled out are for the MAF, cam sensor, and speed sensor. Would the cam or maf sensor make my car acts like it has a rev limiter at 5000 rpms. the car idles fine. Just want to know if I should start replacing these immediately or if I have bigger problems. thanks
August 20, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would clear the codes, and then see what code comes back first - that's probably what I would replace first. The other codes may be related to the first one that pops. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
chinesComments: Hello,
I have a 2000 323ci service engine light is on. Hooked it up to a computer and diagnosis codes were for a camshaft position sensor and an oxygen sensor. My car just recently became very underpowered. Is this due to the camshaft position sensor, or the oxygen sensor, or both. Also, how do I know which H2o sensor is bad? I thin I have 4 of them
July 16, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If your cam sensor is off, it may be causing the car to run rich or lean, which can lead to O2 sensor errors. Replace the cam sensor first. The O2 sensor code should say which one it is 1 thru 4. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
machintekComments: 97 M3 with 140K miles was giving a cam position sensor CEL. Turned out the outside cover from the plug to the sensor was soft and flexible but peeling that back the insulation on the wires themselves was cracked, brittle and flaking off causing a short. I peeled back about 6 inches and it was still brittle and cracked but at least not falling off. I put 1/16 inch heat shrink tubing on the wires as best I could, put 3/32 heat shrink over that and the solder joints back to the plug and put 1/4 inch heat shrink over the whole thing. So far no codes and functioning flawlessly. But will need to get another sensor soon. Brings up the point of what other wires are in the same state.
June 15, 2010
TwoDogsComments: While driving my 88 325i, I suddenly had a loss of power and the engine ran very erratically. With the help of a mechanic friend, discovered that the 2, 4, 6, cylinders were not firing. The cylinders were getting gas smell and gas coming from the exhuast pipe The plugs were getting spark as was the distributer. Could this be the CPS?? If not do you gurus have an idea what it could be.
Thanks, any help is much appreciated.
May 31, 2010
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Spark + gas = fire, unless the spark is coming at the wrong time. The computer sounds like it may be misfiring for some reason - it may be the flywheel sensor or the CPS... - Wayne at Pelican Parts
DaveComments: Hi, i have a BMW E36 320i that is struggling to fire properly between 2500/3500rpm. It only does this once it has warmed up. Before this range it is fine and once it gets going in this range it suddenly picks up and purrs again. Do you have any idea what could cause this?
March 27, 2010
GreenmonsterComments: Great write up, replaced mine easily on a 96 E36/m52 328i. The connector wires sensor side were all bare. Still runs rough and diagnostics say ECU output is 2.5volts when it should be 5 volts. Could a dodgy sensor from autofactors be the cause or perhaps bare wires on the connector leading to ecu drawing down the power?
November 30, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure what you mean by bare wires, and yes, crappy sensors from suspect manufacturers can cause more problems then they solve. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
TimComments: In figure 3 the arrow is covering up a hose, what is the name of this hose because as I replace the intake camshaft sensor this hose broke and I don't know what it is
October 19, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: There's a large hose and a small hose there. The larger one is a camshaft cover / crankcase breather hose. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
ljdtComments: I just stumbled across this website. I wanted to learn about a part that was just replaced on my '01 BMW 3 series. Thanks for the education! I feel like I know a little more about my car now.
September 23, 2009
nintzComments: Have read with great interest the article on camshaft replacement/ timing; and believe the describes the job on a single vanos engine. Is there a discussion on doing a double vanos engine, such as the E39 M52 525i engine.

Thanks!
August 5, 2009
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's very similar, but unfortunately, I don't have a write up on this particular procedure at this time. - Wayne at Pelican Parts

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