From: James at Pelican Parts [james@pelicanparts.com] Sent: Saturday, June 12, 1999 1:56 AM To: tom@pelicanparts.com; Dave Darling Cc: CARL MEYERS; bob@pelicanparts.com Subject: Re: removing rear wheel hub from wheel bearing on car Hi Carl, Forget about the drift; the guy who wrote that never actually tried it. Actually someone invented a tool for doing this job several years ago. It works really well but costs $250+. I've done this job several times, and wouldn't even try it without the tool again; the possibility of expensive damage and wasted time is too great. Ask Tom is parts if he can get a rear wheel bearing removal tool (1-888-280-7799), or perhaps www.skyway tools.com has it. good luck. james Wayne at Pelican Parts wrote: > Hi there. I will forward you to James in Tech Support, who can probably help > you out on this problem. > > Thanks, > > Wayne > > CARL MEYERS wrote: > > > Hi! My names Carl Meyers from Jacksonville, Fl ,phone (904) 221-1719, > > I can be reached anytime on Fridays, after 300pm EST monday & Tuesday, > > before 200pm EST wednesday and Thursday. I am the proud owner of > > a 1969 ,911T 2 liter Porsche. My problem is how to remove the wheel hub > > from > > the trailing arm while on the car .Both the Haynes & Clymer manuals > > describe > > using a properly sized drift or punch to hammer out the hub assembly. I > > have > > been unable to locate the prescribed drift locally , can you help find one, > > or, > > is there another method such as a flanged hub puller with slide hammer . > > Any > > suggestions or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. From: James at Pelican Parts [james@pelicanparts.com] Sent: Friday, June 11, 1999 4:56 AM Cc: FGARYW@aol.com Subject: Re: TIRES For reasons of liability I wont be too specific. I will tell you tires sizes are dictated by the tire manufacture. In other words: the tire manufacture decides what size wheels are compatible with a given tire. Your tire dealer should have this information; but few do and you may have to contact the manufacture. As a general rule of thumb: ideally you want the contact patch of the tire to be the same width as the rim. An inch wider (tire) may be ok, but beyond that your asking for trouble. Also: if you use a wider than stock tire, you'll need to use a reduced aspect ratio in order to maintain proper operation of the speedometer. For a 7" rim I have found 225/50 to fit real well. Not many manufactures' make a 235, and a 245 would simply be dangerous. With the correct wheel and tire combination, it is possible to fit a 275/35x17. In regards to the difference between front and rear sizes: if you change one end by a certain amount, you should also change the other end by the same amount. Good luck james Wayne at Pelican Parts wrote: > Hi there. I'm not sure, but I will forward you to James in Tech Support who > will probably know. > > Thanks, > > Wayne > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: FGARYW@aol.com [mailto:FGARYW@aol.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 9:16 PM > > To: pelicanparts@csi.com > > Subject: TIRES > > > > > > WHAT IS THE LARGEST, WIDEST, TIRE I CAN PUT ON THE REAR OF A 1984 944 ? > > THANKS > > GARY W > > From: James at Pelican Parts [james@pelicanparts.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 3:25 AM Cc: EuropaCOZ@aol.com Subject: Re: body question Hi, your very fortunate to have found a euro bumper. Unfortunately the euro bumpers don't have end caps to fill the body gap. The turbo valance is not likely to help as it doesn't quite go up to bumper height; it will make the car look better and more complete. A used valance sells for $300-350; new: $800. Good luck james Wayne at Pelican Parts wrote: > Hi there. We don't have any rear bumper assemblies that would fit your car. Let > me forward you to James in Tech Support, who might have some suggestions for you. > > Thanks, > > Wayne > > EuropaCOZ@aol.com wrote: > > > hi, i have an 87 norm. asp. 944. > > i found an european 924 rear bumper which i installed and it looks much > > better in the sense that it does not bulge out like the us version. but, > > there are some small quarter-inch gaps between the ends of the bumper and > > the quarter panel. do you think a turbo rear valance would solve this > > problem? or do you have any recommendations? i appreciate any help, thank you. > > > > cozmin ionita From: James at Pelican Parts [james@pelicanparts.com] Sent: Monday, June 07, 1999 11:53 PM Cc: barrybridge@earthlink.net; bob@pelicanparts.com; tom@pelicanparts.com Subject: Re: 85 Carrera Intermittent Power Loss Hmmmm! I don't see any easy answers here Barry. Without the benefit of proper diagnostic tools, it may be difficult to isolate the problem; and I suspect there will be more than one problem. The best thing to do is start with a clean sheet; go through every part of the system one piece at a time. Its a little unclear what was done for the $2,600; but know may provide some clues.. I also don't understand how the car was running on 5 cylinders with a broken rotor; all the cylinders should be equally effected. All the spark plug leads SHOULD fire the timing light when connected, as long as its not all at the same time. Tom and Wayne offer some very good, and very real possibilities. Check or replace the cat with a new part or a test pipe (Tom can help you with this), replace/test the o2 sensor, and have the mixture set. Also: check the condition, and heat range of the plugs and the resistance of the plug wires.. The fuel system is another very real possibility. You may have picked up some bad fuel somewhere that is wrecking havoc on the system. You'll first need to test fuel pressure/volume. Then you'll need to test all the fuel injectors. You'll also need to check the entire system for vacuum leaks; then start testing all the components of the FI system. All this is explained in detail in the Haynes manual (again: Tom can get a copy for you). Good luck james Wayne at Pelican Parts wrote: > Hi there Barry. This is such an interesting problem, that I will forward it > to both of our 911 Technical Support consultants, Bob and James for their > review. > > As for my own opinion, here's what I would do. I would check the mixture > firstly. After spending $2600 with someone who broke the rotor, then I > would request they perform this check for free. If the mixture is ok, then > go on to the next step. If not, then try to adjust it. If you have > problems adjusting it, and it doesn't seem to want to get into the desired > range, you may indeed have fried your O2 sensor. > > If you can adjust the mixture, you may have fried your CAT beyond > recognition. I have heard of many CATs overheating and then breaking down, > causing severe blockages in the exhaust pipes. > > I just spoke with Tom in sales, and he said that one of our customers had a > 02 sensor wire get caught in the upper vavle covers. After about 100 miles, > it started grounding out, and the car wouldn't run right anymore. > Additionally, Tom noted that on his VW Jetta, they specifically state not to > push-start the car because the extra unburned fuel that enters the system > can damage the 02 sensor. If there was enough unburned fuel to damage the > CAT (or at least turn it red-hot), then chance are you fried your 02 sensor. > > Please give Tom a call at 1-888-280-7799, if you would like a price on a new > 02 sensor. These are very easy to install. > > Hope this helps, and if it is the 02 sensor, I would buy the part from us, > and send the bill to your mechanic! > > -Wayne > > Barry Bridge wrote: > > > First your tech pages are a great resource. > > > > My totally stock 85 Carrera has been in for a $2600 major service, g/b > > rebuild, etc. earlier this year. When I got it back, it gradually > > developed an occasional stumble, a hiccup... > > > > After an very occasional intermittent power loss, only since the > > service, became permanent 5 miles from home, I discovered the > > business-end 1/2in of the rotor arm was missing. It was still running on > > 5 cylinders even so! After I limped home, I found the downstream end of > > the catalytic converter was red-hot from processing all the unburnt > > fuel. I replaced the rotor arm and the cap. It ran flawlessly and > > rumbumptiously in true Porsche fashion after this for over 100 miles, > > then began to exhibit bizarre power losses for increasing periods, > > usually as it was warming up but not until I'd driven a few miles... or > > at other times with little apparent correlation to throttle position, > > speed, vehicle attitude or engine temperature. Of course this made life > > interesting mid-curve. I have one managed to coax it into this behavior > > in my garage and found all spark leads were triggering my timing strobe > > during the power losses. On the road it would seem like the engine had > > died but always came back. When it occurs, if I declutch and let off the > > throttle, the rpm would go to 2000, then down to idle, maybe up and down > > like this. It seemed as though wagging the car with the steering wheel > > (like F1 tire-warming swerves) brought it back, but it always seems to > > clear anyway and then it's like nothing is wrong. There are no starting > > problems whatsoever. It did this twice for about ten seconds on a > > 300-mile trip a month ago. It's not a clean cut -out either, it comes > > and goes during these brief periods. Just as you think it's died and > > pull over, it comes back. The engine doesn't seem to die at idle, it > > just seems to do this occasionally while either cruising or > > accelerating. > > > > There is no lumpiness to the power-loss as was the case when it was one > > plug not firing, so it seems like it's a fuel-delivery problem. I wonder > > if the trip home on 5 firing cylinders didn't damage the O2 sensor > > (upstream of the catalytic converter and wouldn't have become > > excessively hot, but can raw fuel damage it?). But why did it wait over > > 100 miles to start giving trouble? > > > > I've considered fuel blockage (but with a new filter?), intermittent > > sensor or wiring, bad DME or DME relay or fuel pump, bad fuel pressure > > regulator, vacuum leak (old cracked hose variety). So far I've checked > > only the DME grounds which look good. > > > > Er... any suggestions? > > > > --- > > Barry Bridge