From: darling@simlab.arc.nasa.gov on behalf of Dave Darling [darling@simlab.arc.nasa.gov] Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 8:56 AM To: David Parsons Cc: 914 Subject: Re: [914] broken brakes At 3:00 PM -0700 4/13/99, David Parsons wrote: >... So on to brake ? 's. Just did some of this last night. (Doing something simpler before tackling the idle problem.) >? #1: One of the front >discs had the rear bearing stuck to the spindle. ... Do I need to >replace the spindle now too? Hmm, no clue. You might try it and see what happens--but the consequences of a failure can be pretty drastic... > ? #2: How the #@** do you get the flex lines >for the rear calipers disconnected on the end farthest from the >caliper!!!! Get a flare-nut wrench on each side of the connection. I have heard that using US sizes that are just a teeny bit smaller than the metric equivalents can give you a slightly more solid grip. Never done that myself though. Anyway, if there's something in the way of your getting the wrenches on the connection, remove it. I know it's a pain to remove the heating ducts and all (for instance) but is probably easier than trying to work around something that really is in your way. >? #3: Is there a trick to disconnecting the parking brake cable at the >caliper, as I would like to remove the caliper to be sure I can free up the >adjusting screws for venting clearence on the bench, rather than on the car >and possibly making another project when something strips or binds. On my 74, the connection from the cable itself to the lever arm on the caliper is something like a two-tined fork. A hole is drilled side-to- side through both tines of the fork, and a bolt goes through, held on by a nut. The shaft of the bolt rests in a divot in the side of the caliper's lever arm. Just remove the nut and bolt, and then shove the fork off of the lever arm. Much easier done than said. > ? #4: >is there a recommended way to remove the two screws that hold the rear disc >on? Mine seem particularly tight... Any help will be greatly >appreciated. I had luck with the following: 1: Spray screw-heads with Liquid Wrench. (Others like Kroyl and PB Blaster.) 2: Dig out LARGEST flat- head screwdriver in the world--about 18" long, was the biggest one that I've ever seen at Sears. Same size as used for the engine sheet-metal screws, if that helps. 3: Put screwdriver in screw slot, use copper mallet to THUMP on handle end of screwdriver. 4: Put both feet on the brake disk to keep it from moving, use both hands to turn the screwdriver. (Prop back against garage wall to keep from falling over.) The Liquid Wrench and the thumping appear to help break the bond between the screw and the hub. The thumping also seems to help make sure the screwdriver is seated in the screw-head. And finally, getting the right-sized screwdriver is absolutely essential! I started with a too- small screwdriver, and one of the screw-heads is now chewed up as a result. The proper tool made it fairly easy. Good luck! --DD Dave Darling 74 914 2.0 (VROOM!) darling@simlab.arc.nasa.gov <--- OR ---> ddarling@wgss.com "914: The Porsche Picnic Basket. A lid that opens on each end, and a handle in the middle.." -- CHD