After disconnecting the battery, draining the Oil from the sump, and Oil Tank here is what I did:
Here is the 2.7 with all attachments.
1. The air pump was removed last year, but here for illustration purposes (Do not need to remove to drop engine).
2. The York A/C compressor was removed.
3. 14 pin harness was disconnected (Green Arrow) as were 2 other connectors under regulator (black box).
4. 3 pin harness to Permatune box was disconnected (Pink Arrow) and box removed.
5. Disconnect the line at the top of the fuel filter (Yellow Arrow).
6. Disconnect the line from the bottom of the fuel accumulator (Blue Arrow . . . Ok Aqua).
7. Remove both filter and accumulator (accumulator not used by Motronic system).
8. 2 breather hoses from Oil Filler Neck removed.
9. 3 Hoses from charcoal box, and charcoal box removed (small 1/4" hose from front of car remains for installing on 3.2 intake).
10. Remove the vacuum booster line (purple arrow).
11. Remove the fuel return line (green arrow).
12. Remove Sway Bar
13. Disconnect Heater Hoses From Heat Exchangers.
14. Muffler and SSIs were removed (Not required to drop engine, but they are going on the 3.2).
15. Disconnect hard oil line from engine side (this line goes to Oil Tank on my car, but to thermostat on cars with external coolers.
16. Remove S pipe from Oil tank to block mounted oil cooler.
17. Remove and secure CV joints from transmission (early years are not sealed so baggies and zip ties are used).
Forgot
to take this picture, so I borrowed this one from Wayne!!
18. Disconnect Clutch Cable, remove
small helper spring (red), c-clip (green arrow), & adjuster arm (pink
arrow), then snap large
arm toward front of car (If you do not release the large arm the transmission
will not separate from the block).
19. Disconnect Accelerator Linkage Bar from ball closest to the front of the car.
20. Disconnect Red cable from Battery to Starter Solenoid.
21. Disconnect Shift Coupler by removing the allen head cone set screw (inside car between the rear seats on the floor).
22. Disconnect the Speedometer wire harness that resides next to the Shift coupler in the tunnel and pull from under car.
23. Support Engine and Transmission with appropriate jack(s).
24. Remove Tranny Mount Bolts.
25. Remove Engine Motor Mount Bolts.
26. The rear bumper needs to be 32 inches off the ground (watch the front clearance if you have a chin spoiler).
27. Lower slowly and listen for snap, krackle and pop. WATCH THE SHIFT SHAFT & STARTER FOR CLEARANCE AT ALL TIMES.
28. Next thing you know its sitting on the floor.
29. Remove 2 remaining wires on solenoid.
30. Remove back up light switch
harness (green arrow).
31. Remove 3 nuts and 1- 12 mm barrel nut (on starter stud) holding tranny to block.
32. Rock the tranny back and forth gently while pulling off.
33. Remove pressure plate (9 allen
head bolts) and ring gear (both bolt on the 3.2 Flywheel).
(No picture because Richard got the p/p removed before I could take it
!!!)
34. Done for now. Once the motor is installed, the fuel pump will be exchanged.
35. Removal of the fuel pump is
straight forward. You will need a 5" piece of fuel hose to replace
the rotten line connecting the
tank to the pump. Grab this line close to the tank with vice grips wrapped
with duct tape to cut off the circulation. Loosen the
hose clamp closest to the pump and remove the line by prying off with a
screw driver. Once the line is off you can drain the
tank without having to use a bag of kitty litter for the spill.
36. There are 2 leads to the fuel
pump. Fat Brown lead is the ground, skinny Black is the plus.
Terminals on the pump are
different sizes so that we don't cross the wires. Loosen the end
cap and remove the banjo fitting before loosening the hose
clamp that holds the pump in place. There may be a little gas in the line,
so have the can ready.
Now on to the modifications.