Although
I realize that the 3.2 conversion is not as popular as it once was due
to the availability of the 3.6 transplant, the 3.2 conversion requires
only minor modifications, as compared to the 3.6. Not to mention
the added cost of the modifications to make the 3.6 fit, and function.
What follows are the modifications that I made (with the help of Cary, Roland, John Walker and Warren of course) to make the conversion complete.
Please read the Installation
page before trying this conversion, because there are certain things that
need to be done before the installation, and during that are not on this
page.
1. Sender Changes: The oil pressure sender was removed from the 3.2 and replaced by part number 911 606 111 00. The Oil Temp sender was the same as the one on my 2.7 so I left it in.
The Oil Gauge Pressure sender (on right)
and the Oil Gauge Temperature sender (lower left). Do not try to
remove the Pressure sender without removing the A/C brackets and then using
a wrench to support the junction block while removing the sender.
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insurance. Check out this article: http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/3-2002.htm.
Here is the part number: 901 105 361 01. What I did learn was that the
part number is old, but the part has changed, such that the old fitting
with the larger bore is no longer available.
Upgrade is good for all engines upto
the 3.6. Don't let anyone tell you that they are already in your engine,
because they are not unless the machined band is present.
2. Engine Bay: The original Permatune CD box, fuel filter, and fuel accumulator were removed leaving the panel looking like this:
The three allen heads held in the CD
box and the black bracket to the right held the filter and accumulator.
The hose is from the fuel pump and will be installed directly to the filter.
A piece of metal will be fabricated to hold the Coil in the CD box space.
The filter bracket is an A/C accumulator bracket from a 964, which,
after being flattened slightly in a vice fit the 3.2 filter perfectly.
Part number is 964 573 451 01.
The lower fitting of the 3.2 filter
must be removed. The lower fitting from the 2.7 filter is then installed
in the 3.2 filter. Both fittings have crush washers. With this modification,
the fuel line from the fuel pump will bolt right on. Black arrows indicate
fuel flow.
3. The dreaded 14 Pin connector.
This is the 14 Pin Female on the 3.2 engine. Pin numbers are divided odd
on top and even on the bottom. The pin assignments are as follows:
1. yellow - starter Kl.50
2. red - source from alternator Kl.30 ( or B+ )
3. green/black - Oil temperature Instrument
4. green/red - Oil pressure Instrument
5. red/green - from ignition.( Kl.15 ) to
backup light switch
6. gray/brown - backup light switch to lights
7. free
8. brown/black - temp switch for fresh air
blower
9. green/white - Oil pressure idiot light
10. free
11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12. free
13. black/yellow - power source for fresh air blower
14. red - source from alternator Kl.30 or B+
This is the 14 Pin Male in the '77 engine bay. The pin assignments
are as follows:
1. yellow - starter Kl.50
2. brown/white - To a harness below the shift lever
3. green/black - Oil temperature Instrument
4. green/red - Oil pressure Instrument
5. green/yellow - from ignition.( Kl.15 ) to backup
light switch
6. gray - backup light switch to lights
7. blue/yellow - To fuse on panel in engine bay
8. green - To a harness on the trunk floor
9. green/white - Oil pressure idiot light
10. red/white - Thermovalve
11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12. free
13. black/yellow - power source for the fresh air
blower
14. red / source from alternator Kl.30 or B+
In my case, I removed the #2 pin and
#8 pin from the female connector. I did not cut the pins off so that
if they are needed in the future, they could be re-inserted.
The male connector will be relocated
to the front of the electrical panel because the 3.2 harness is too short
to reach. Here is the problem. The harness to the left tail lights,
etc. is too short to move the 14 pin forward.
Here is my fix. The alternative
is to build a 14 pin extension cord . . . . I don't thing so !!
Here is the fix finished. What
is amazing is that the 26 year old wire insulation on the harness that
I extended was as supple as the new wire I used for the patch.
Here is the finished product. The 14
pin connector is now in front of the panel and will hook up to the one
on the engine without any problem. Note the DME diagnostic socket next
to the large rectangular relay.
4. Transmission.
The flywheel and pilot bearing are from
an '84-'86 3.2. The Pilot bearing was dry, so I packed it. The clutch,
pressure plate, and throw out bearing are from a '77 915. A new '89 flywheel/crankshaft
seal was installed as well. Don't forget to check the gap between
the lower (speed) sensor and flywheel ring gear. It should be .08 mm +
.03 mm. The sensor is adjusted by loosening the 2 bolts that hold the sensor
housing to the block. CHECK THE INSTALLATION PAGE FOR IMPORTANT STUD INFORMATION.
Here is a problem that I encountered
because my 3.2 was mated to a G50. The heat shield interferes with the
clutch release arm on the 915. Vice grips flattened out the stainless steel
and the 915 mated without event.
Here is a picture of the 2 notches that
need to be made in the bell housing to allow the DME sensors to see the
3.2 flywheel. There is also a new main seal, Guide tube and O-ring
in there. Notice that I installed the Guide tube upside down, the hole
at the end should be facing down.
5. DME Harness.
Here is the DME, DME Relay, and Altitude
Module installed. These items are installed under the driver's seat.
I used self tapping stainless steel screws with rubber washers on top and
bottom with a flat washer between screw and top rubber washer. Don't forget
to undercoat the screws from underneath.
This is the hole for the DME Harness
(1 1/4"). I made sure that there was enough room between the harness
and the chassis so a jack stand can be placed on the torque tube when necessary.
Here is the routing of the harness up
the chassis and behind the shock tower.
This
is the DME Relay Socket. The arrow indicates the #1 pin. Pins are
numbered odd on top and even on the bottom. The pin numbers relate to the
following Relay pin numbers. 1=87, 2=87b, 3=85, 4=85b, 5=86, 6=30. Don't
worry about pins 1 and 4, they go to the 6 pin fuel injection socket in
the engine bay.
Pin 2 is a red and green wire that runs in a harness to the trunk compartment with a black wire (this will be discussed below).
Pin 3 is a brown wire which must read 0 ohms when tested to a ground.
Pin 5 is black wire that is part of a harness that goes to the trunk compartment with 3 other wires.
Pin 6 is a large red wire that is covered
with black sheath when it comes out of the harness and has an eye on the
end for attaching to the battery + terminal. This pin should read 12v at
all times.
There are 2 harnesses and 1 single wire that go to the luggage compartment. The large black wire (white arrow) is the red wire from Pin 6 of the DME Socket and goes to the + terminal of the battery.
The 2 wire harness (purple arrow) has the red/green wire from Pin 2 and a thick black wire. I did not use the red/green wire so it is taped back. The black wire (green arrow) connects the 15 terminal of the coil to the #8 fuse on the '89 panel. This is a 16 amp fuse that provides power to the coil upon start up, and while the key is on. On the '77, this wire was connected to the bottom of fuse #3 on the middle block.
The 3rd harness (yellow arrow) has 4 wires. 2 blacks, a yellow, and a black/violet. You have to find the black wire (blue arrow) that connects to Pin 5 of the DME Relay Socket with an ohm meter, and connect it to the bottom of fuse #8 on the middle block.
The original Tach wire from the DME
is a black/violet wire. I spliced a green wire (below white arrow) and
connected it to the Tach's middle spade.
6. Misc
This started ugly. No budging the fitting
so the Dremel went to work. Hopefully the next picture will be the SAME
Oil Tank with nice new Aeroquip lines and fittings. As it turned
out, after soaking with brake parts cleaner for a week, it came right off.
Steve Timmins (Dr. T) just shipped out the oil cooler system which includes
Aeroquip lines and a 50 row cooler.
Here it is:
The DME uses less pressure than the
CIS so a 3.2 fuel pump is required. The only problem is that the banjo
fitting on the '77 that goes around the nose of the pump is smaller in
diameter than the nose of the 3.2 pump. I was lucky as my local wrench
(Dulles International Motorsport) had a banjo fitting in the junk drawer
with a barb on the end. I cut the old banjo off and inserted the new and
used a hose clamp to secure everything. With 2 new copper crush washers
everything sealed up nicely.