I'm one of those guilty of using an
el-cheapo MIG welder and now that mine has 8+ years of heavy use, it is showing its age.
It starts with poor wire feed, like intermittent. The problem is the size of the roll of
wire you use. I really like the 9 pound spool, but these are so heavy and the cheep MIGs
are poorly setup for this type of load -it can cause poor wire feed. This can really mess
up your welds, so beware.
Another cause of crummy welds is slag buildup in the nozzle.-particularly when doing
inverted position welding. Sometimes forming a short to the stinger nozzle, causing the
thing to become electrically 'hot'. If you weld like I do, you occasionally touch the
nozzle to the work, which may cause a temporary short circuit. The globs of steel shorting
the nozzle robs your weld of heating current or at least disrupts the uniformity of the
gas envelope, and can mess up your welds. . .beware.
So the moral of the story is:
-Keep your MIG stinger clean; use a nozzle protectant such as "spatter-pruf"
(avoid silicone gunks and sprays) and regularly pick out the spatter globs that accumulate
in the nozzle.
-Prepare weld site and vicinity to bare metal clean as possible.
-Keep on hand spare parts such as nozzles, tips, rollers, and maybe a hoze if you are
Tip: add to your machine a ball bearing setup such as a 'lazy susan' to aid the wire
spool in moving freely (in horizontal orientation) as the plastic arrangement will wear
out, causing less than smooth feed and rough welds.
For those doing inverted position welding:
-Use your leathers, gloves, skull cap and chaps, or at least cotton jeans and . .socks.
Even then molten droplets can sneak in and pock your hide.
-Use a clear protective shield over your hood's viewscreen to protect the shade coating
and ensure UV eye protection.
-Keep a fire extinguisher within reach.
-Avoid inhaling welding fumes, thus 'fume fever'.
-Avoid migging in drafty locations (gas or
<do penetrate deeply> =:)
-Do *NOT* use 'weld thru' coatings in vicinity of welds. -for high-current stick
welding its probably ok, but for our low-amperage stuff, -it wont work.
"Metal Fabricator's Handbook" by Ron Fournier
ISBN 0-89586-171-2 $12.95 (HPBooks) 176 ppgs 1982
Library of Congress card catalog # 82-84043
Contents: (front cover)
Race & Custom car & Restoration
Metalworking tools & techniques
MIG & TIG, arc-welding & Gas-welding
Fenders, scoops & spoilers
Roll bars & roll cages
Fuel tanks & oil tanks
Practical data, formulas & instructions
Table of contents: (verbatim)
- 1 Hand Tools
- 2 Power Hand Tools
- 3 Large Equipment
- 4 Projects: Getting started
- 5 Gas-Welding
- 6 Electric-Welding
- 7 Basic Metal Shaping
- 8 Hammerforming
- 9 Sheet-Metal Add-ons
- 10 Roll Bars & Roll Cages
- 11 Tanks
- 12 Exhaust Headers
- 13 Sheet Metal Interiors
- Glossary, Suppliers Index
- My words on this pub: This is a *great* book for the price.
Loads of useful bits and sources for stuff.
"Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch and Tom Monroe
ISBN 0-89586-257-3 $12.95 (HPBooks) 160 ppgs 1985
(no library of congress #)
- Contents: (front cover)
- MIG & TIG welding, A/C arc, D/C arc & spot welding.
- Oxyacetylene welding & cutting, brazing & soldering.
- How to weld stainless steel, aluminum, magnesium & titanium
- Certification-test examples
- Table of contents: (verbatim)
- 1 Basics of Welding
- 2 Safety, Comfort & Convenience
- 3 What kind of welder is best?
- 4 Fitting and Jigging
- 5 Gas-Welding equipment
- 6 Gas welding, heating, forming & cutting
- 7 Gas brazing & soldering
- 8 Arc Welding
- 9 TIG Welding
- 10 Plasma-Arc Welding & cutting
- 11 MIG welding
- 12 Welding Rods & Fluxes
- 13 Spot Welding
- 14 Cerfification & Welding Professionally
- 15 Projects (15) (gas welding cart, push cart, sander & grinder stand,
cutting/welding table, jack stands/work stands, folding engine stand, go kart, trailer for
kart/motorcycle, hydraulic press-floor or bench, engine hoist tow bar for cars/jeeps,
utility trailer, . .
- 16 Arts & Crafts Welding
Glossary, Suppliers list, conversions, index
My words: Another great book for the price, a good place to start.
"The Racer's Guide to Fabricating Shop Equipment" by John Block
ISBN 0-936834-45-5 (no library of congress #) cost unknown, 56 ppgs
Contents: (front cover)
- How to Build-
- Engine Stand
- Hydraulic Press
- Engine hoist
- Sheetmetal Brake
- Motorized Flame cutter
- Rotating Chassis Fabrication Stands -all for less than $400
- Step-by-step instructions and photos
My words: This book is a bit disappointing, but another good reference for designs. I
dont remember how much I paid for it. Less than $15.
"The Principles of Autobody Repairing and Repainting" 4th ed. 1986
By Andre G. Deroche and Nicholas N. HiIldebrand 730 ppgs
ISBN 0-13-708173-1 Approx. $35 U.S.
Library of Congress # 82-20527
21 chapters (this is a formal study text)
Red River Community College- Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
- 1 Body Construction
- 2 Welding
- 3 Repairing Damaged Panels and Metalworking Methods
- 4 Hydraulic equipment
- 5 Expansion, contraction and shrinking of metals
- 6 Abrasives and power tools
- 7 Filling dents with body solder
- 8 Plastic filler and its uses
- 9 Fiberglass and Plastic: Their uses and repair methods
- 10 Frame alignment
- 11 Adjustments
- 12 Removing and Replacing upholstery trim and headlinings
- 13 Recovering and repairing vinyl tops
- 14 Replacement of glass and weatherstripping
- 15 Repairing collision damage
- 16 Spray painting equipment
- 17 Paint Materials
- 18 Spray guns
- 19 Refinishing procedures
- 20 Body and Trim care
- 21 Management, estimating, and shop safety
Appendix A: Hand tools for metalworking
conversion tables, glossary
My words: The first 400 pages of this book are *killer* for your needs
if you want to learn to 'do it all' to any car.