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BMW E30 Coolant Temp Sensor Replacement
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Pelican Technical Article:

BMW E30 Coolant Temp Sensor Replacement

Jared Fenton


1 hour1 hr






19mm deep socket and ratchet, old toothbrush, can of Coke, shop rags, flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

BMW 318i Coupe/Conv (1984-92)
BMW 318i Sedan (1984-92)
BMW 318is Coupe (1984-92)
BMW 325 Coupe (1986-88)
BMW 325 Sedan (1986-88)
BMW 325e/es/is/iX Coupe (1984-93)
BMW 325e/i/iX Sedan (1984-93)
BMW 325i Coupe/Conv (1984-93)

Parts Required:

Coolant temp sensor

Performance Gain:

Restore an even idle speed to your engine

Complementary Modification:

Replace the coolant in your cooling system

A common problem area on the early BMW E30 3 Series cars is constant idle problems. In my tireless quest to solve this annoying gremlin, I have found that one possible culprit is the coolant temp sensor. This sensor is used to provide the idle control unit with information to keep the car idling before the oxygen sensor heats up enough to take over mixture control. In my case, I had found that my car would idle at about 1500RPM when cold, the drop to normal. I started checking everything, and found that this switch was faulty. I ordered the new switch from Pelican and once installed, it cured the idle problem.

Keep in mind that this article is specific to my 325is, however the article applies to all BMW models in general. That said, I decided to do a small tech article showing how to replace this sensor and hopefully provide you with some insight on this common idle problem and how to correct it.

The first step is to open the hood and locate the sensor. In this case, the sensor is located in the thermostat housing. Locate the sensor and remove the electrical connection from the top by pushing in the metal clip and pulling it off.

Now use a 19mm deep socket to remove the old sensor. It should come out with no resistance, however if there is a lot of corrosion around the switch, it's a good idea to clean all this off prior to removing the sensor. I've heard a lot of different ways to remove rust, but believe it or not, the best way I've found is to go to your local vending machine and buy a can of Coke. A toothbrush and some Coke will clean up just about any rust you can imagine. (this is another convincing argument why soda pop is bad for you.) just get it clean and pull the old sensor out.

Take a look at the new and old sensors side by side. You can see the discoloration on the old sensor. This is most likely an indication that years of hot coolant passing over the sensor has eventually caused oxidation on the surface, which in turn causes the sensor to build up internal resistance, causing it to eventually fail.

Now look at the thermostat housing make sure the area around the housing is clean and free of any dirt. You don't want this to get into the coolant. Just wipe away any grime or grit. Now, place the new sensor in the housing and use the socket to tighten it in place. Do not over tighten, as you can damage the threads. Now, reconnect the electrical plug for the sensor and start the car. Your idle should now be between 700-900 RPM and smooth like Shaft.

You may also want to bleed the cooling system to get rid of any air that may have entered the system. There is a small screw on the top of the thermostat housing. Start the car and loosen the screw. This will allow any air to bleed out. When you see straight coolant coming out, the system is bled.

Well, there you have it - it's really not too difficult at all. If you would like to see more technical articles like this one, please continue to support Pelican Parts with all your parts needs. If you like what you see here, then please visit our online BMW catalog and help support the collection and creating of new and informative technical articles like this one. Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one. As always, if you have any questions or comments about this helpful article, please drop us a line.

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Comments and Suggestions:
stefmanpkb Comments: I have an 86 e30 that will start, but once the engine gets hot and im in idle and I press the gas pedal, the engine will just die. I can't start the car again until it cools down, any ideas? I've just replaced the coolant sensor...thank you
April 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be an issue with the fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
hendro Comments: hi Nick, my e30m40 318i had this problem...
1. engine missfire on idle like a small cough but runs smooth on higher rpm above 1000 rpm
2. rediculous fuel economy about 23L/100km
3. starts fine when cold, but very hard starting after the engine gets warm.

could this be the faulty temperature sensor? how many temp sensor in the car ? coolant and engine or just coolant sensor?

I had the injectors checked, it was fine and equal between 4 of them, AFM and ICV are brand new, all vacuum hoses including intake booth are brand new

many thanks
December 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not a temp sensor, they will not cause misfires. I would check spark, fuel and compression on all cylinders. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
November 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check for a stuck or leaking fuel injector. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
e30 Comments: I have an 89 E30 325i. Need to replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor.

I've read elsewhere that you need to first "drain some coolant", before removing the sensor. Unfortunately it never mentions how MUCH you need to drain ... any clue?

Or, since THIS^^ howto doesn't mention draining it at all, do you have to drain any?
November 10, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Normally, drain the coolant until the level in the radiator is lower than the sensor. Then no coolant should leak out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Vinny Comments: Hey awsome artical I just replaced my temp sensor on my 1989 325i 5 speed and right after replacing it turned the car on and any time I hit the gas it was bogging down trying to die I let is run for a lil and then gone back to normal so I drove the car around the block and she just died on me so I tried restarting it and nothing sometimes it will crank over just not getting fuel and some times it won't even do that and just click
September 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are there any fault codes? Have you specked fuel injector pulse and spark? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Smooth Comments: I have a 86 325e bmw and experiencing shut down failure after a cold start. Shortly after 2-3 min after i start the car for the first time it will idle fine then start sputtering and making popping sounds from the exhaust and die. The car will crank after it gets hot but will not start for hours until it cools all the way down. I swapped out a used fuel pump and it did the same thing didnt change fpr, changed distributor, cap, rotor, coil, and plugs. I cleaned the brown temp sensor but did not replace. Also before the car sputters out the rough idle begins. Ive swapped out 3 icv and the rough idle happens when car gets warm and unplugging the connector does nothing. I never replaced the tps or amf but i replaced intake boot, air filter, fuel filter and cleaned butterfly. Any suggestions on what is causing the shutdown? I also replaced the cps. So car cranks, has power, just doesnt start for hours after it dies after reaching normal temperature.
July 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Popping sound is usually a timing issue. I would start by checking mechanical timing, compression, etc. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Joel Comments: I just wanna say you guys at pelican parts have the patience of gods. So you must be.... gods. I have been reading many of your articles and they always end with a very responsive Q&A.

Thank you.

Ps anything you can do about Canadian shipping.
July 10, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Spring here in new England was not so great either. If you find a solution, let me know. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Danny 86 325es Comments: I have a 1986 325es, the first and only car I have ever owned. It's difficult to start when warm/hot, unless I depress the gas pedal while turning the key.

When the engine is warm and even when it is hot, the engine quickly cranks, turns over and starts, but almost instantaneously after the engine catches, the rpms drop to zero or almost zero - at which point, the engine dies. I have been able to re-start the engine by pressing on the gas pedal a little bit when starting the engine warm. When I do this, the engine starts and catches every time, without that precipitous rpm drop to zero. By the way, this warm start problem only started after we replaced the cold start valve and cold start sensor to fix a cold start problem. I saw in other forums that the problem may be with the blue tipped coolant temperature sensor. So I bought one and had it installed. The problem remains. Any ideas?
May 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you unplug the cold start injector, does the engine start normally? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ken in Australia Comments: Hi, I have a 1987 BMW 325i E30 TC Baur manufactured in South Africa that stalls randomly when warming up. It always seems to happen within the first 15 minutes from startup and appears to go away once the temperature gauge gets a little past 50%. The coolant housing has two sensors; the blue with two tabs and a brown with single tab. I have changed the blue sensor thinking the switch might give an error to the cold start valve. No success. I then proceeded to replace the thermostat and the situation improved as long as I let the car idle for about ten minutes to get the temperature gauge past 50%. The past two days have had the car stall even though I let it warm up. Interestingly the temperature gauge does not even hit 50% even after 15 minutes of idling and the outside weather involves a 60 F degree day. The gauge seems to deviate when I know that the engine would easily be at operating temperature. I have had a look at the BMW 3 Series Electrical Manual and it looks like the brown coolant temperature sensor is routed through the ECU before heading to the temperature gauge. Could this mean that the brown sensor actually provides input to the ECU that might alter mixture and stall/shut off the engine? When the car is warming up, it does appear to slightly misfire but once up to operating temperature, runs smooth. When the engine stalls/shuts off, there are no dash lights and on occasion, the engine just cuts off and then catches itself and starts running again. Most times however, I have to pull to the side of the road and wait a minute and restart. The car always idles beautifully once running either cold or hot. Unfortunately, I have one of the early Motrons that does not have the late diagnostic plugs. Do you think it is the sensor or is there something else that could be at fault. I have replaced the two pulse generators on the bell housing and replaced the coil also. If you could give me a few tips, I would be most grateful. Thank you.
May 10, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It may be a fuel pump issue. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Daniel Comments: Hi, I have a bmw x3 2004, aux fan runs like a jet engine at high speed any time car is on, could this be the faulty coolant sensor? Also any suggestions as to what to do after replacing? Lastly my cabin temp read -40f and does not throw cold air, if I need a outside temp sensor can you show me where it would be located in my particular car? Thanks
April 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fan running on high speed could be the waterpump, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, a/c high side pressure sensor, or a communication fault in the powertrain CAN. The vehicle needs have a fault diagnostic run in order to properly determine a course of action. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
stefan Comments: My 1988 BMW 735i is hard to start after car has warmed up or has been running for 5 mins or more. It seems to have to be cranked over excessively while holding pedal about 3/4 to floor. When it starts, the car runs rough and puffs black smoke until it clears. Likely, the coolant temp sensor? It has become an issue.
March 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check fuel pressure and spark when the problem is present. Once you know both are OK, you can suspect an input. At that point, check the coolant temp sensor using a BMW scan tool. See if it reads the correct temperature. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tk Comments: Hello,

1988 325iX, 2.7 E stroker. Just fixed a massive vacuum leak at the intake manifold and also new o2 sensor. this helped idle and starting A LOT On a cold start it was -4F yesterday she fires up instantly. And when the car is hot eh hem 65mph.. on the highway for extended periods fires up no problem.

The issue of no start occurs in the coldish to medium engine temps, cranks forever until the battery dies unless I barely depress the gas pedal, she fires but rough. Coolant temp sensor? or something else, no CEL. Thanks
February 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Coolant temp or cold start valve. Check if the cold start valve is working. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Adonel Comments: I have replaced the whole electrical harnas wiring replace the crank & cam censor. Took computer box for repairs. Put it back and still my car do not start Help please. BMW 320i E36 1996 model
January 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Mrpooch Comments: Sorry mine a 323i 1999 first registered
January 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mrpooch Comments: I have a 325 E36 R reg 2.5 limited edition import and I have bought a water temp sensor as my temp gauge is not working. I have done the instrument cluster check & all good. Replaced the temp switch on the rad aswell. My problem is where is the temp sensor on the engine. As I stand in front of my car I have spent a whole afternoon looking for it. At the top of the head towards the front two screw in sensors there but neither the right one. No others visible that screw into the engine. Totally at a loss where it goes. Looked in manual and pic is showing me nish as looks nothing like my engine anywhere lol. Been on forums and where it says it is it isn't. Please help me someone I going crazy looking ha ha. Thank you.
January 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be two sensors, maybe three right at the bottom of the intake, mounted in the cylinder head. You can determine which is the one for the DME by unplugging the sensor and seeing what fault code sets. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
moska Comments: Hello good day I have a problem and do not know what may be, I have a e30 325i 88, and is warming in the sunlit in the Cabin, the interrutores of elevated glass heats that can not play and the floor of the front seat and copilot, the car just passed the first quarter meter temperature, ralentin okay, just sometimes does flips, and otherwise the closure centarlizado no longer works and not the front doors are secured by more strength to do them this it can be?
for the former was not if the water pump or the transmission which produc heating, the car works well in cold and hot.??
January 10, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure exactly what the issue is. is it cabin temp? HAve you inspected the underbody heat shields? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ron Comments: I have a 1987 325i convertible. It starts, when cold, drives and idles fine. However when warmed up it cranks for several seconds before it will start. If I depress the accelerator pedal to the floor is starts up just fine.
Any clues where to start to fix this?
January 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
zack Comments: I have a 1989 325i,at start up regardless of being cold or warm it cranks over and over for a little while then it'll start up. Sounds like lack of fuel. once its running I could shut it off and crank it back up with no problems till i leave it off for a while then same thing. Do you think its the engine cooling temperature sensor? Thank you.
December 14, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Thandos Comments: Hi i have 1990 e30 325i, it idles fine when it is cold but once it gets warm it starts to surge and stall or dies off when i drive it, as soon as i let my foot off the gas it will surge and die off, if i remove the plug from the cold start sensor none of this happens but it revs a bit diffent, what could cause this? thank you
November 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty fuel pump. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
RR Comments: Nick I have a 1992 325ic e30 which idles about 600 rpm steadyand sometimes hesitates from a stop and then starts to idle ruff acks like its going to stall. it has a new ics,trottle switch, new injectors, major tune up done, oxy sensor, all the hoses are completely replaced coolant and vacumn,intake hoses and it has no vacumn leaks. any ideas of what i sould do this vehicle only has 90000 origanl miles on it engine is stong.Thx Randy
October 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a fuel volume issue. I would perform a fuel delivery system test. Check fuel pressure, volume and quality.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
October 9, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be low on coolant, a bad thermostat or water pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
David Comments: Nick, just to clarify one thing on "725tds The AUX fan does not work.": the water temp increases after 25-30 minutes drive with AC on full speed on a hot day. The water temp indicator reaches 3/4 of the gauge and I usually turn the AC off at that point to avoid overheating. So the water does get hot enough I presume, but the fan does not kick in...
July 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The issue could be the aux fan itself. I would turn the A/C on, then check for power and ground to the fan. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
David Comments: Hi. Got a European BMW E38 725tds VIN: DH81484. The AUX fan does not work. The outside temperature sensor is good. When manually shortening pin 1 to ground pin on the wiring of the radiator coolant temperature switch - the fan kicks in. Thought the switch was defective, ordered a genuine BMW switch with P/N 61318363677, installed it but the fan still doesn't work. What could be the cause?
July 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It may not be reaching a hot enough temp to activate the fan. It sounds like you ruled everything else out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Slick Comments: on my 1998 BMW 528i i"m getting a code that my mass air meter is bad so I replaced it cause if it is plugged in the car will not stay running , so I replaced it with a used one and when we plugged it in the car turned off again can you help
June 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The used one could be faulty. I would try a new one. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Alleycat501 Comments: Hello I have a 2006 BMWie and the fan runs like a jet engine when the air is on so loud even my neighbor ask about it.
June 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Where is the noise coming from? If from the electric cooling fan, it could be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Kimball Comments: I have a 2003 325ci with idle issues , it will randomly go from 500-1000 rpm and sometimes stall.. CCV, ICV, MAF, valve gasket replaced, new fuel pump, new alternator .. Do you think the temp gauge is the issue?
May 1, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A faulty temp sensor cud cause idle issues, you could have a fault code if that is the case. You may also have a vacuum leak. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
snakeman_009 Comments: it is normal ??? so even after it sitting for 3 days with no driving it and the temp hand sits in the middle when first starting it up after 3 days of not driving it at all knowing it is cold . that is normal?
April 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No. If the gauge is always in the middle, something is broken. I would check if the temp sensor is faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
snakeman_009 Comments: I just bought a 2001 330 XI and the temp hand on the dash stays half way and doesn't move . I first start it and it sits half way and even after driving it same thing it sits half way. any advice???
April 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: In the middle of the gauge? This is normal. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Josh Comments: 1986 325e

Do I need to drain any coolant before I replace this?

Do you think this could help the idle problems I've been having - if idle is adjusted for cold starts, idles normally 900-1000 when cold, then rises to 1200-1500 when warm. If adjusted normally for warm running 750-800, cold idle is 450-500 and will stall on a cold start unless I depress the accelerator when starting.
April 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, I would drain the cooling system before removing the sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bigz Comments: I have a 2003 bmw 318i touring with a faulty coolant temperature sensor in the engine and not radiator. Where do i find it? Any guidelines on replacing?
April 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It should be on the front left of the engine, in the cylinder head. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Kayzm Comments: help bwm 320i the temperature gauge goes up to red zone when the engine is cold and my car wont start. which sensor is making it move on cold engine. which sensor connects to the gauge that is causing that me it now 6 days my car can't start
April 1, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it does not start and is in the red, this indicates no communication from the DME. I would start by checking if the DME is online. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Law Comments: I have installed a new rad and water pump and not got any heating in the car and the lower hose is not getting hot on my 1994 318 any ideas?
December 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check that the system isn't air bound and the thermostat isn't stuck open. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
henry Comments: E30 1986 BMW 325 sedan-AUTOMATIC
I seem to have my my coolant light on the top dash.
no check engine light, also another thing my heat does not blow hot air BUT, the engine does run at correct operating temps from what the guage shows.blower does blow well sometimes it may start to feel like tiny bit warm air ..but it just blows out cool air is it possible the coolant control valve has to be replaced? the coolant is at its correct level in the dashpot. Also how come nobody has these in stock...does the coolant temp sensor have to be replaced? possible water pump?

In this case, we would suspect that the heater core is partially clogged or the water/heater control valve is clogged or not opening fully????

please advise
thank you
December 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Lets focus on the heater valve. If you think it is faulty, check the hose temp going into the valve, then turn the heat to full hot and turn the blower on high. The valve should allow coolant to flow, heating up the outlet hose. if it does not. the valve may be faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
M42_318ic Comments: Hey I have A 1992 318ic E30 that i bought a couple months ago. i picked it up 163 miles away from where i live. only problem was that it just took about 4 sec to turn on once i turned the key.but on the drive home drove perfectly fine. but the next day after i drove it for about 1.5 miles it turned off. now whenever its warm it just turns off but when its cold it turns on right away but then turns off when it get warm. please help i dont know what it could be
December 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
BeemerLover Comments: Hello I have a 2007 bmw 328i sedan and the temperature light comes on turns from yellow to red when driving and will stay on for about 3-5 secs and go off while temperature light is on the car goes into limp mode im not sure what it is i had the radiator checked and it's doing it's job please shed some insight on this situation thanks also the light happens random and no codes are found.
November 25, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This sounds like a communication fault. The bus may be dropping out, when this happens the cluster no longer receives temp data. I would start by scanning the vehicle for fault codes.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
nikolasgo Comments: Please tell where the hell is located Coolant temp sensor on BMW 318 1994 year model, temp arrow dropped, unable to monitor engine temp. thanks in advance !!
November 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Coolant temp sensor is at front of cylinder head just above oil filter cover. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rizo2321 Comments: I have a bmw e3 316i m43- The car stated heating and oil mixed with water. I changed the head gasket, took my head to the engineers to check for crack or if its warpt-non. i changed me water pump and new radiator i have checked my thermostat and no problem. i have bled the car plenty times. still over heating. but not immediately. I drive for 20km the car stays on half after 20 km it starts rising slowly. while rising i switch the car off and on then it goes back to half a minute or 2 it slowly rises again so i keep switching on and off while driving. Please please please i even changed the fan.
November 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This is a tough because you stated you changed everything.

i would start by bleeding the cooling system again. Once you have confirmed it is bled, pressure test the cooling system. If it does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks you could have a faulty head gasket. Finally, check that the cooling fan is functioning and the radiator is not dirty or blocked. - Nick at Pelican Parts
kenny Comments: i have a 1999 328i . bought with overheated engine...replaced engine runs great but have an issue where driving along and temp spikes to red, pull over turn the car off back on temp gauge goes back to normal, does this alot somedays , not somedays...temp gauge reads real low most time and now its cold here, last night drove it and temp spiked and got a check engine light, gives me a code saying the engine temp is to cold? or something like that......takes forever for the heat to work in the car also.......when i replaced the engine only drove the car maybe 200 miles off and on since replaced enginei bleed the system off of all the air i thought.........can it just be that all the all is not out or could it be the thermostat.....HELP!!!
November 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Start by checking if there is air trapped in the cooling system, bleed it. Then check that the thermostat is opening. If it is not, replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
laylow Comments: i have BMW 318I the car is a patrol car but to me its sounds like a bit too loud not as Diesel so what could be the problem and the car sometimes just switches off even when the engine is running especially the cold weather is there and one who can help ????
November 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't know what year it is but my first suggestion is to do a valve adjustment - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
e30girl Comments: '92 325ic. Recently rebuilt engine, no leaks, almost everything is new, but it misfires during idle and while being driven, also stalls out immediately after engine turns over and while idling. Idle speed seems too low at just over 500rpm. Temp gauge doesn't read right, saying that it is running hot when it is not/ nothing is too hot and coolant level is not low. The whole coolant system is new, so I'm suspecting the coolant sensor because the harness end has two prongs and the head side only has one, probably broken off. Right track or any better ideas?
October 29, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is a temp sensor for the gauge and for the DME I would check to make sure the connectors are not switched.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Tommy Comments: Continuing on with my 94 318is m42..with DTC 1223 Engine coolant temp sensor. This will get confusing. Here is what I understand. The blue front sensor by the oil filter is the coolant temp sensor that goes to the computer. The black sensor in line with the blue towards the firewall is the temp sensor for the gauge. The coolant temp sensor has a connector with two wires. A reference from the computer, and then a signal to the computer. The temp sensor for the gauge has a single wire connector, even though the sensor has two blades. Now, I was experimenting, and disconnected the front sensor. With the front sensor disconnected, my temp gauge was working. Here is where it gets complicated. The connector that was going to my front sensor only had one active wire. I disconnected the second sensor, the black one and it had two active wires. I assumed that maybe my connectors were switched around. Now my question is, would that make a difference in engine operation, and if I had the coolant temp sensor connected to the gauge sensor, why was my temp gauge still working. I was thinking the coolant temp sensor just went to the computer. If you can help me figure this out it would be great. Thanks
October 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It sounds like the connectors are swapped, the sensor in the front is for the computer and should have two wires. the other sensor for the gauge should only have one wire.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Tommy Comments: I have a 94 318is a/t, and keep getting a coolant temp sensor code 1223. The sensor ohms out good. Although this sensor has a two wire connector, only one of the wires that plug into the sensor has a metal connection on it. If you remove the connector and look at it, you only see one silver thingy, but two ports. I am getting power at the connector with the silver end, but there doesn't appear to be anything at the other wire. I assume the missing wire would go to the computer. Should there actually be two wires at this connector, or does the sensor just ground to the engine, and the signal feeds back thru the single wire? Thanks
October 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That code is for the temp switch, it should have two wires and be located by the oil filter housing, where is the temp switch you are working on located? It might be for something else.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
chris Comments: Hi again gota cluster from a scrap dealer for my e30 325 but it hasent got th chip on th right hand corner, shud it still work ok without it cause just th fuel an mph working, cud it just b another dud? Thanks
October 15, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Are you talking about the coding plug? It will not work correctly without it. You are supposed to reuse the old coding plug from the original cluster.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
chris Comments: e30 325i 1989 130000 temp hand not working, iv put new sensor in an new thermo stat, stays in th cold all th time, cud it b dash prob but every fing elce works on dash but it thanks for any help chris
October 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: check for power at pin 23 on connector 1 and pin 6 on connector 2 at the back of the cluster, they should both have 12v with the key on. pin 26 on connector 1 is your signal wire from the temp sensor, you should see the voltage change as the engine warms up, if all that work the cluster will be faulty.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Chillicothe oh Comments: Anyone know or had this problem? I have a 04 330ci e46 3.0 2dr
It's done it for a year and I'm used to it now, but when I put it in drive it takes about 5-8 seconds before it will actually engage and drive forward? It shifts very smooth so I don't think it is the transmission? Should I just leave it? After I've drove it, it's fine and engages straight away,
October 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try flushing the fluid and changing the filter. Sounds like the transmission is draining back into the pan and it is not supposed to. Also you may have a bad 1-2 shift solenoid? Any codes? - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
uya[ Comments: my upper hose is hotter than the down hose and the temperature pointer gose to red and return often
September 18, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Looks like the thermostat is sticking closed. Both hoses should be hot when everything is working correctly.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Emmy Comments: I have a 1998 318i and recently we had to replace a connector behind the engine that did something with coolant because when it broke, antifreeze dripped everywhere and smoked. Ever since we replaced that, the car wont stop overheating. We figured out its the fan that sits in front of the engine; basically the fan only turns on when it feels like it. We've tried leaving the AC on, checking the fuses expect 48, we cant figure out how to get to that one and unplugging and re plugging the fan. What is wrong thats making it not turn on? Is it the temp sensor or something else? I use this car every day to commute to school and work so this is a huge problem for us. I can barely get out of the neighborhood before it hits the red mark on the temp gauge. I really need help
September 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fan itself maybe faulty, you are also going to want to check to make sure there is no air stuck in the cooling system. I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you may have a faulty head gasket. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools needed to check it.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
325is Comments: 87 325is; overheating to 3/4s... changed the thermostat brought it down to half way, clutch fan was bad changed it & still overheating.. new radiator but still over heats; hoses are still good.. any help? could it be the water pump? belt loose? sensor out? help pleas
September 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: check to make sure you have coolant flow, there should be coolant flowing from the small hole at the top of the coolant tank. Make sure the belts are not slipping, if that is all ok, pressure test the cooling system. If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you may have a faulty head gasket.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
Motoicon Comments: Have a 1988 325i Auto. Runs great except when it gets to running temp. It then runs rough and then stalls. Only fault code is C02 sensor but that is 6 months old. replaced relays and fuel filter so far but no luck.
September 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check you ignition parts for wear, after it stalls check the standard things like spark, injector pulse, fuel pressure and volume. See what is missing and go from there.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
RC Comments: My 1990 325is just turn 200k a few weeks ago? So a hose from the coolant had a leak replaced that, still a bit of coolant dripping so every second morning I put in 330 ml or so. But today the temperature gauge is going to red withing 5 minutes of driving . Checked the coolant it's Ok the check engine light has come on a few times but goes up just as fast.
August 31, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The thermostat could be stuck, you could have air in the system. Check for faults in the DME and check all of the coolant system components for issues.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
August 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You posted an E39 question in the E30 queue. In the front grille or bumper area look for an air temperature sensor. This gives your IHKA control unit the outside temperature. It sounds like the sensor may have been ripped off or damaged or unplugged. An unplugged sensor sends a signal that the outside air is cold so the IHKA control unit will not turn on the AC because it thinks it too cold outside for AC> - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
dottrain Comments: MY BMW 528I, how can I change my dash board temp from -40 to -3
August 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You posted an E39 question in the E30 queue. In the front grille or bumper area look for an air temperature sensor. This gives your IHKA control unit the outside temperature. It sounds like the sensor may have been ripped off or damaged or unplugged. An unplugged sensor sends a signal that the outside air is cold so the IHKA control unit will not turn on the AC because it thinks it too cold outside for AC - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
e34_spangler Comments: ok so i got an 86 325e coolant seems to be clearly coming out the overflow quite abit like in a 25 min drive ill loose all the expansion tank and some! i replace coolant sensor a few hoses expansion tank cap and the tank with a used one. also theres no signs of a head gasket where should i go next? thanks in advance!
July 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Actually it sounds like a bad head gasket. The cooling system is over pressurizing and forcing coolant out of the tank. Is the vehicle overheating. You could also have a bad water pump allowing the engine to overheat and cause the coolant to boil over. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
ChrisNZ Comments: Hi I have recently bought a '95 318ti.

When the car has warmed all the way up the temp gauge seems to sit on the 3/4 to hot line as normal, when driving it moves slightly up and down around that mark. I spoke to the previous owner who 'forgot' to mention she had a 'sensor' replaced a few years ago and has been like this ever since. Could the wrong type of sensor been installed?

The car seems to run fine there is a slight leak from the radiator that I plan to replace soon also, it isn't losing coolant very fast at the moment.

I plan on replacing the sensor for my peace of mind. Any other input on what the issue could be??
July 3, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have a coolant leak, start there. Repair the coolant leak, then recheck the running condition. An incorrect sensor could have been installed, best way to tell is to see if there is part number on it and crossreference it with your vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Lovemykids Comments: I have a 2000 BMW 528 series, it runs like a dream! The check engine comes on if your sitting at a red light if u hook a computer to it and clear the check engine light it drives great! It has low compression we think in two cylinders her recently i, if your sitting in traffic the thermostat light goes to red! Once u go it goes off! Do I need a new engine? What can this be?
May 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Low compression is an indiation of an engine mechanical fault. If low, engine repair is needed. You will have to find the source of the compression loss and repair it.

I would note the fault code before clearing it. The sotred fault code will point you to the source of the problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts
MB Comments: Hey guys my 1995 325i m50 engine 5 speed is having trouble passing smog, a friend told me it may need a new temperature sensor, the problems is high hydrocarbons which he said the engine is running too rich, any ideas? Thanks
May 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: High hydrocarbons indicate incomplete combustion, not rich. Incomplete combustion is caused by an engine misfire. The other tailpipe gases are used in conjuction with the failed gas to pinpoint the problem. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Alex89ix Comments: I'm wondering about the different colors used for the plugs in Engine Temperature Coolant Sensors. My 89 325ix has a ECT sensor with a yellow plug, but the plug on the replacement sensor on the Pelican site is light blue. Others are gray, white, black and green - for what looks like the same sensor. Can you tell me if the color of the plug have any effect on the performance of the sensor, and if so, what?
April 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The color may vary due to naufacturer of sensor. Give our parts specialists a call, they can answer any questions you have: 1-888-280-7799
- Nick at Pelican Parts
James79m Comments: Hello i have a 93 318i with the m42 motor i just replaced all the timing parts and had the head work done had bent valves. my question is i replaced the water temp sensor also when i started the car for the first time within less then a min the water temp shoot up to the red line thought i had enough water but shut it off fulled it up rest of the way and restarted the car now my gage dont work put the old one back in but still not working do you know what might be wrong with it thanks.
February 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Make sure the connector for the temperature sensor is connected. You also may want to remove it when it is cold and see if coolant starts to leak out. You will probably need to bleed the system of air trapped in the cooling system. Try opening the bleed screw if it has one on the thermostat housing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Yusuf Comments: Hello guys, i have a problem ive been tryin to figure out for a while. i have a 82 e30 prod date 84 engine M25 in there everything is working fine but when i turn the key on without even starting the car, the temp gauge goes directly to hot. any ideas why?? thanks in advance
February 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe that when these sensors of fail they default two hot. In other words when the center becomes disconnected the gates sees that it's disconnected and then defaults to full hot. Because of the false the full hot it tells you that the sensor is not working or the wire is disconnected. So I would check in the engine compartment and make sure that the wire to the sensor is properly connected. If it is connected then the problem is a faulty sensor most likely. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Erni3 Comments: Hello guys, i have a problem ive been tryin to figure out for a while. i have a 86 e30 prod date 11/85 i currently put a m50 motor in there everything is working fine but when i turn the key on without even starting the car, the temp gauge goes directly to hot. any ideas why?? thanks in advance
May 14, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you don't have the temp gauge wiring connected to a sensor. You probably left it out in the conversion. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Comments: I have a 98 318i. Now my TEMPERATURE is runing in the red when I move the car. I can start it up and idle fine but once I move it the TEMPERATURE goes to the red. I replace the thermostat and put new cooling in it. The radiator and hoses are good. But it still goes red when moving.

April 30, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would pressure test the cooling system. If the system does not hold pressure and there are no external leaks, you may have a faulty head gasket. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
B M W E 3 0 Comments: Ive just bought an e30 325i, it has a reconditioned 325i engine in and runs sweet as. I was driving It today and sat In traffic for parts, about 30 minutes of driving before the temp gauge went to between the red and the normal zone in traffic, so hot. When the car was back on the open road the temperature cam back down to the middle. I tried the newspaper trick and the fan doesn't stop so its not the fan clutch? could you please advise as to the problem?
April 5, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Do you have a functioning auxilliary cooling fan before the radiator? and is it working? I believe there is a temperature switch on the passenger side of the radiator if you jump the to pins together the fan should come on, at least on USA models - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
momolopes Comments: I HAVE A 2006 BMW325I after it sits over night you get in a drive for about 10 miles then the temp light comes on yellow then red and the vents are blowing cold. i stop for five minutes and the start up & go a bit and then the light will either blink yellow and go off or go back to red for 5 minutes, the fans come on high then l ight goes off vents are warm... when it's doing this the upper rad. hose hot andtight, and the lower one is cold, i've replaced the thermosat assm.. still the same problem... perhaps plugged raditor if hwo do i check it ?? thanx
February 23, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Plugged radiator or bad water pump, no circulation - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
bemmer dreamer Comments: Have an '87 325i. runs like a champ with, until right after i changed my oil.toda y i started it up, and normally the temp gauge stays low and doesnt fluctuate much, but this time i let it warm up for a fraction of the time, and the temp gauge was already like halfway up. felt the hood and it was hot, as never before. i had to take it for a short drive to cool it down. but this is only the half of it. at the same time, my valvetrain is tapping significantly, as opposed to before. this all happened suddenly, after i gave it a fresh oil and filter change. may i have knocked something out of place when changing my filter? IDK. the tempurature regulation is surely acting up, this i know. but what about my engine? is there a chance i have damaged my valves permanently? the oil stick is reading just a quarter inch or so low-could that be causing inadequate lube to the valves, thus causing them to be noisy? tapping?I hope to all get-out that i didnt harm my engine by running it hot and low of oil.
February 19, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds to me like your thermostat stuck closed or water pump went bad unless you put Olive oil in the engine your lubrication system should be fine. Did you put in a thinner weight oil? Is the water pump belt still on the pulleys? As long as you did not overheat the engine you are probably okay but I offer no promises. Can you check oil pressure ? and is the oil pressure light on? - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
snoo46 Comments: hi my 2004 bm 320 es wont start every time i get into start it the thermostat goes from blue to red in the first turn please help thank you
February 4, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a bad water pump. Check that the coolant is up to level and both radiator hoses are getting hot. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
January 30, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Look behind the water pump on the housing bolted to the block - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Tori Comments: Hi... ANY help you guys could give me would be AMAZING!

I turned on my car a few days ago and the temperature went all the way to red and two exclamation marks appeared. It also said my brake was on but it wasn't Checked my oil and it was fine... What could this be??

This car has given me so many headaches :
January 29, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check your coolant level if both hoses are gettint hot after you have run the engine for 10 minutes or so. Possibly stuck thermostat or water pump - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Denis Comments: I have a 2003 330xi the coolant temperature guage jumps from cold to overheating.Heat in the car is poor.The water pump seams to be working. If I turn the car off and then restart it the guage goes back to cold. Is it a sensor or more than one. What should I try first.
January 23, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try bleeding the cooling system. It sounds like you might have air in the system. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
bonujj Comments: HI Wayne..
i am trying to find out which thermostat housing is the right one. one has two temp sensor holes and one has four temp holes ..they both say from 87 to 91 325i models..but which is the original car that came with the two temp holes on the thermostat.. i have a 90 and a 87 engine somebody changed a thermostat on the 90 and has four temp holes on it. and calls for the 2 temp holes housing.. i am confused .. please help as i cannot find any wire that goes to the two extra temp sensor that they have on the housing.... thanks again
January 19, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You probably only use the two hole housing. Plug the other two holes. You can also call one of our parts specialist at 888 280 7799 to verify you have the correct part. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
bonujj Comments: what is the difference that some thermostat housing has four temp sensor and some has two..? i am confused..i have a 89 e30 with two sensor while my 90 has four sensor?...please help the confusion thanks.
January 19, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe some cars have temperatures switches for warning lights or cooling fans so that is what the additional sensors are for. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
CaliMakavelli Comments: I have an 85 325e and in the past two years that I,ve owned it, occasionally I hear a "chime" coming from under the steering wheel, up under the dash. Recently, the last month or so I hear the chime at least twice a week. I have researched it and no-one seems to know why. Any ideas what is causing this? Ty
January 15, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Probably the key in ignition sensor or the door open switch - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: Is this sensor the black or orange one?
January 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Probably the black one, but unplug the connector and check voltage on the pins. The CTS will have only 5v going to it and a switch will have 12v going to it. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: 1990 325iX, 241k, newer cat.

Could a bad coolant temp sensor cause my car to fail emissions? HC 706 CO 0.45 @ 773 RPMs

Work done so far: valve adjustment and new valve cover gasket, new fpr old one leaked, wires, cap, plugs, rotor.

Could the O2 sensor cause this?

Please help.

More info here:
January 3, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes it can. There are other possibilities - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
cstewart94 Comments: what can i do too get more horse power out of my 1986 325 es.
December 26, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That depends on how much power you want. You can try bolt on accessories, headers, exhaust, maybe a chip. If that is not enough you could build the motor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike4198 Comments: Hi, could mine be a sensor issue too? i have a 2006 325i bmw and i noticed now in the winter time when its cold out that after a while driving my fan under the engine kicks on real high and stays that way until i turn car off. could that be a sensor issue too? i notice it also seems to effect my heat temp working in my car too, to try to stay warm in this winter weather. You think coolant issue too?

thank you in advance
December 10, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be air in the system, bad water pump/low coolant flow or bad coolant sensor. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
luxan Comments: hi i have a problem with my bmw 320i e30 heat gauge it does go up, when i turn on the key it just move a little bit but doesnt even go up even when engine is warm. what could be the problem
December 9, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a bad sensor or a bad gauge. You can try unplugging the sensor and turn the key on, the gauge should read full cold. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Stef Comments: Do you guys use Teflon Tape on the threads of the CTS before installing it? I will be installing mine here in the next few days just purchased it from you guys, as well as the ignition overhaul kit and was wondering if you guys would recommend it, or its not necessary? Also, the CTS seems to be a tight fit on the later model m20b25 1990 325i. Any recommendations on easiest way to remove the CTS for the late models? The write up appears to cover early models where the thermostat housing and CTS's are far more accessible. Thanks!
November 3, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not necessary. Housing gets too hot for teflon and it will likely burn. It's a brass fitting so the crushed metal threads will form the seal. - Kerry at Plican Parts  
Flame Comments: Gidday guys,
I'm a first time BMW buyer and have a very long awaited answer as to why my "86 325i manual has a topend knock which really starts to be noticed around 2,500rpm. Ofcourse I have checked oil levels etc, was wondering wether a oil/filter change could help? Also would timing belt play some part? It was last replaced at approx 107,500km and is now at 153,500kms, but has been sitting in garage were I purchased for past 3 years?? Please give or help me with a solution, it would be hugely appreciated.
Thanks Mitch n.z
October 13, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try replacing the oil bar in the head, it is clogged. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
deck Comments: my e30 wont stay running but when i unplug the mass air flow and the coolant sensor it run what can be the problem
September 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have a vacuum leak. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
scott Comments: My 1990 325i has a weird problem sometimes when I start it: the recalibrayed will soar up to three grand and then zoom down to 500rpm and fluctuate like that. The check engine light comes on as well. I will then turn the engine off and move my automatic transmission selector slowly through all of the positions and then restart the car. And it will be just fine. So, my question is: what connection is there between the auto gear selector and the idle? What should I be looking at? Thanks . The car has 301,000 miles on it and runs strong with no other idle issues. Rick steady 750 or do at idle. Any ideas?
September 4, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No connection, unless the TCM thinks the car is in drive. Check the TPS voltage. Try cleaning out the idle speed motor with carb cleaner - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
joonsup Comments: Does a bad coolant temperature sensor affect the strength of the radiator fan spinning?
August 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure what vehicle you have so I have to speak generally.

On a mechanical fan? No.

On an electric fan, it may run on high speed all the time if a coolant sensor fault is present. - Nick at Pelican Parts
tgps2tomt Comments: I have a 1988 325i convertable, I am having fluctuating idle at all temperatures. It is very hard and sometimes impossible to start. I have replaced all the relays, mass air flow sensor, icv, all vacuum hoses, and inspected for manifold cracks. It does not throw any codes. Could it be the fuel pump?
August 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be a faulty TPS sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jake Comments: Have an 89 325i with manual transmission. Replaced all vacuume hoses, tps, afs, fuel regulator, injectors, ecu, temp sensors, o2 sensor, idle control valve, spark plugs, rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires, valve adjustment, compression tested, timing belts, alternator, etc. Emmisions tested very good BUT off-idle hesitation Problem won't go away. What else could be causing it?
August 15, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you add fuel (like spray carb spray while accelerating the engine) does the hesitation go away? - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
demonchild Comments: the check light keeps blinking on and off in the center of the dash, what am I supposed to check, and how can I turn it off.
July 31, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: is it check engine or the service light? Can you share a photo of the light? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
harold30 Comments: Hi, i have an 89 e30 325i, im on a quest to solve the idle problem. When i found out this DIY article it made me realize it's almost same problem as im having. When the engine is cold, that's the time the idle drop and rise. It smooths when engine is warm. Also, i have CEL 1222 on idle and gone when revving up. I replaced vacuum hoses, icv, icv hose, intake boot, o2 sensor. I just bought the FAE coolant temp sensor part #12621710512. I read some comments above that its for temp gauge. If its true what is the correct coolant temp sensor i need? Please advise. Thanks!
July 30, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Call one of our parts specialist at 888 280 7799 and they'll help you get the CTS you need - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
geovany Comments: hi, i have a BMW 323ci 2000 when in bought the car it had been in an accident and i replace the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and fan clutch. the problem is when i start the car it slowly starts to overheat.
July 18, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try bleeding the cooling system again and see if the fan works - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
cal Comments: ps. the seal on the fuel pump is gone and leaks fuel when i do a handbrake turn as i recently changed the fuel pump, can this be the cause?
July 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Was the fuel tank in good condition? I would remove the pump and inspect the seal and see if it is installed properly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cal Comments: i have a 1990 bmw 320i touring for tinkering with as im 15 and cant drive on the road yet. the problem is that when im driving slow the car is more or less perfect but when i floor it, the cars engine just dies then if i keep my foot on the throttle it splutters and backfires then returns to idle but if i take my foot off the throttle as it looses power the revs return to normal for the speed im going please help me lads!!!! :
July 11, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Probably low fuel volume from a problem fuel pump. That's just a guess though could be bad AFS. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
E30guy Comments: I am having a problem with my 1987 325is when I engage the a/c RPM jumps to 1500 and does not kick down when changing gears or at idle. Turn off the a/c and rpm backs down to 500. Any thoughts?
July 1, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does the a/c work? sounds like the compressor is not engaging but the rpm is increased to compensate for the load of the compressor. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
tbonejazzman76 Comments: Recently suffered a massive coolant leak after radiator broke at upper radiator hose mountplastic collar. Was able to get hose over the stump to check system to determine what needs to be replaced other than the radiator. Temperature is continuing to spike and getting no heat out of heater when car is at idle for several minutes. Reservoir attached to radiator appears full. I suspect air in the system, just wondering if 1 there are other air-bleed techniques and 2 what is a good check for water pump failure? Thanks!
May 31, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If one hose it hot and the other hose is cold suspect water pump, otherwise head gasket. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Guidolay Comments: Where can I buy this sensor at? I can't find it on this website. I have a 87 325i Convertible. Thanks!
May 7, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here: #item17 - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jerry Comments: I replaced my radiator hoses but now I have a leak on the bottom radiator hose. The leak is coming around the temp sensor. Where can a buy a new sensor that snaps into the lower hose. Or, is there a simple O-ring that needs replacing
May 2, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right sensor and o-ring. I believe you cannot buy the sensor separately, however the parts folks will know for sure.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
sjr Comments: Hello. I have a 2001 BMW 325i. The radiator fans runs on high speed 100% of the time the car in on and running. It takes about 10 seconds after start up it sound like an airplane is ramping up until it hits full speed. I am getting 2 codes on my service engine soon light. 1. Engine misfire in cyl 3 and 2. Lean 02 sensor. I’m not getting any sensor related to the cooling system. Could this be a temp control sensor, fan clutch, electrical or just a bad fan motor? Thanks for any advise.
April 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Which fan is stuck on. Is it the mechanical fan attached to the water pump or the electric cooling fan? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
c.rock90 Comments: Hi, im currently driving a '92 325i and i've been having coolant problems. I just changed the thermostat, water hose, engine fan, housing gasket. For some reason now, when i start my car, within 30 seconds the car heats up halfway. Im concerned about this because my car has not done that and i know for sure other cars dont heat up as quick as my car. so i just want to know why my car heats up so quick now.
April 20, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try bleeding the system and check upper and lower coolant hoses, either bad water pump or bad or bad head gasket - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Legacy All Comments: I have been trying to figure this out for months, even the mechanic is having a hard time. I have a 84 325 e about a quarter of the way during warm up it wants to stumble and die. If I put my foot into it seems like it loads up. Runs fine cold and hot, but at that certain temp don't even try and start it cause it will be like it's flooded until it overcomes that temp point. Soon as it hits that mid temp at warm up it coughs and sputters. Hoping to find answers smog is due soon.
April 12, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Two things come to mind - a rubber hose that is expanding and allowing a vacuum leak to occur (and then seals up as it gets hotter), and a temperature sensors that has a "bad spot" in the middle. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
DD Comments: I have a 1998 BMW 328i it. Had an air leak we replaced the seals and air intake manifold. I also had to replace #5 coil. I drove it was idling a little rough. Then after 100 miles it is running rough again and you can here the air sucking sound. We have checked all hoses and still cant get it to run correctly we need help.
April 4, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'd recommend that you perform a smoke test on the car to try to detect vacuum leaks. You should read my article on it here, and try it out: - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Ross Comments: Sorry to blow your wall up but i could really use your advice on this.

I still have not been able to produce any check engine codes using the "stomp" method both my self and my mechanic tied with no success. Just recently i had my o2 changed as of currently i am running a o2 code. being that i cannot do a "stomp" test and due to the o2 code. we believe this points directly to the throttle position sensor.

my symthoms:
loss of power 70% highway driving speratticly. speratic misfire. garenteeded misfire while raining out.

it makes sense that the o2 code would throw if the sensor is bad due to wrong reedings on the sensor?

thanks for your help your advice is greatly appreciated
March 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure which year / model car you're referring to here. I'm going to copy this question to the forums and we can clarify it there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Ross Comments: hi i have a 89 325ix i would like to know how to remove the sensor it seems that my fuel rail is over top of my sensor and block it from being removed with any size socket. also unrelated but quite at the same time the 5 petal press to reveal codes worked once but now doesn't any advice on either?
March 20, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think you might need to remove the fuel rail to get to the sensor, or perhaps try a crowfoot wrench? As for the foot-pedal method, follow the instructions *exactly*. It's very easy to get this wrong many times. I often have difficulty getting it to work when I haven't done it for quite a while. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
robbierotten Comments: hi,i have a bmw 318 convertible,the fan is not working and when you start car the temp needle goes to half way and will sit there 5 mins then raise to 3quarters but not overheat,the thermostat has got loads of gunk around it could this be the prob and sensor on side of radiator,thanks plz help
March 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like there are some issues with debris in your cooling system. I would suspect that your radiator might be clogged as well. I would remove it and inspect it and/or replace it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
paperplane Comments: I have an '89 525i with the m20b25. My problem is that it hesitates when accelerating from a stop. I can recreate the problem while idling in park and blipping or opening and closing the throttle very quickly. The engine almost wants to die for a second but then it comes back and accelerates normally.
Could the temp sensor be causing this?I have also heard of the fuel pressure reg. causing this,is that true?
I have checked for vacuum leaks and replaced a number of hoses and gaskets already. I have also replaced the fuel filter,and replaced plugs,cap,and rotor and cleaned the ICV.
February 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm betting that you still have a vacuum leak in there. Check out my article on diagnosing them: The throttle doesn't respond too well when there are leaks - I would check the idle control valve too, as well as the hoses that connect to it. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jos Comments: I am having a cold start problem. It only occurs when it gets pretty chilly: -15 to -20 celcius. It will start for a second if that and then turn off. It will continue to do this obviously unless I give it gas and it warms up a bit. It is fine the rest of the day as long as I'm using it a fair bit and stays warm. I want to say it is a fuel injection problem, but I'm not sure. 1990 325i. Thanks!
January 30, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, -20 degrees C is pretty darn cold. The car is 21 years old - I'm not sure if they were designed to start that well when they were brand new. At those temps, the oil is very thick and difficult to move through the engine. I would say the problem might just be the norm for a 21-year old BMW. Try using some lighter-weight oil too. Also, check the ambient air temp sensors on the car, although I really think coaxing the car to get started in -20 C weather is to be expected. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
mikey3281995 Comments: brought a stunning 1995 328i drove home temp gauge half way then all of a sudden shot up fast, rad cap splilling COLD water all over the floor but temp showing hot engine hot, i suspect thermostat after inspection no thermostat in the car,looking through the paperwork it has had a new radiator, i immediatley checked the oil all is fine drive perfect starts great lots of power but needle allways goes fast to half way mark then after half hour starts spilling out of the rad cap again drivin me crazy now had the car over a week and been unable to appriciate the car at all and thats why i brought a 328 beemer, the garage has no interest in helping me least said the better, after reading up lots and lots should i change the waterpump put a new themostat in then bleed and bleed again, also no hot air from inside heater, i suspect whoever replaced the rad did not follow any of the procedures and it may have more air in it than a baloon lol PLEASE help me !! im going mad with this but i will not give up... txt me if you can 07902 109000
January 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, interesting problem. I would tackle this by replacing my radiator cap to start. Then I would probably replace the thermostat as well. After that, I would bleed, rebleed, and then bleed again. These cars can be difficult to bleed properly, see my article here for complete instructions: - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
XR4T1030 Comments: I have a 1988 325i E30. The engine breaks up really bad after about about 5-10 minutes. I changed the cap,rotor,wires,coil,Coolant Temperature Sensor,fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I drove it a week ago and it shut down as if the battery was dead. It started up about 30 minutes later. I was wondering whether the CPU was bad. Could someone help me out here?
January 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Problems like these are very difficult to diagnose, let alone over the Internet. If you think that your ECU is failing, then you might want to get a replacement to swap in there and test. You might also want to check to make sure that your engine wire harness is okay, as the wires can break down over time, and create problems that are similar to what you would find with a busted ECU. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
redzer Comments: I have a 99 318is coupe and in the morning it starts grand and no noise from engine as such. when engine is warm and im changing gear when pressure comes off engine its lets a loud couple of knocks from engine. If i have car stopped and jus rev it the knocking comes in about 2500rpm and goes again after 3000rpm. Any ideas?? thanks
January 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Problems like these are very difficult to diagnose over the Internet, but I would guess that it would be a chain tensioner that is beginning to fail. Replacement isn't too difficult. I can't think of anything else that would be obvious. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Speedracer Comments: Can I take out the guts on a thermostat for a E46 2001 325CI to keep temp down???
January 22, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, that won't help if the car is functioning properly. You want to keep the thermostat in there because you want the car to warm up properly. Removing the thermostat makes the car heat up very slowly, which is not good for it, and is also very inefficient. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Burm Comments: Hi,
Are these sensors the same?

12 63 1 279 722
12 63 1 279 720

If not - whats the difference?
January 19, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: According to my notes, 12-63-1-279-722 operates at 45 degrees Celcius and has a yellow insulator, where as 12-63-1-279-720 operates at 0 degrees Celcius and has a violet / purple insulator.
- Wayne at Pelican Parts
Germancar64 Comments: Hi guys, 1989 325i
I had the engine stumbling, tach. needles dipping, check engine light glowing problem. I replaced: o2 sensor, ECU, ICV, AFM, all relays, all hoses and bellows, distributor cap & rotor, coil, plugs, fuel filter, and new injectors . That problem seems to be gone, but now she doesn't want to start when cold, or after she's warmed up, and she runs really rough.

The only items I haven't replaced have been the coolant temp. sensor brown with one poleand the fuel pump in tank

When the car does start after much hesitation, the engine shakes as if the timing is off new timing belt last year so it’s not the timing belt.

When I give her gas she revs up and smoothes out a little but not as smooth as she used to. Also, I have to gently, slowly accelerate or else she’ll choke off and stall.

The temperature gauge needle never moves never did that before even after running a while, and I've tried to bleed the coolant system but neither air or coolant ever comes out of the bleeder screw yes the water pump works and is connected, and I just put a brand new thermostat in

January 16, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Before you replace anything else, you might want to check the mechanical condition of the engine by performing a compression check on it, as I describe here: - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
soul4t Comments: Hi, I've replaced the Fuel pump relay, the DME relay, HT leads and spark plugs, new rotor and the distributor cap is about 2 yrs old but - looks pretty fine, I remember having the problem when I replaced it anyway...sorry to be off topic, but do you have any other suggestions? Thank you!
January 6, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Nothing to add really, except to check for vacuum leaks, and also check the wiring harness for breaks from the sensors to the DME. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
soul4t Comments: Hi, I was wondering if you could offer any further advice... I replaced the Temp Coolant Sensor, the car seems to run better but I still have the same cold start missing and warm start problem, is it possible that it may be the fuel pump relay? I don't think it would be temp sensitive. I'm going to replace the HT leads and I'm touring through Europe so I thought I'd change the belts too, can I keep you/the thread posted on my progress? Thanks!
December 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Temperature related start issues can also be traced back to vacuum leaks. When the car is cold, the hoses are contracted and don't tend to leak as much when they are warm. When the car warms up, it may be that cracks and holes in the hoses are expanding, which may be causing major vacuum leaks. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
soul4t Comments: Hi, me again...firstly "Cloudbase", is your's a 316/318 injection M40 engine, if so, I've just replaced my coolant temp sensor, and a few forum articles suggested that I'd have to take the top part of the inlet manifold off, another forum article suggested that I needed to take the bottom half of the inlet manifold off, and in the end I got the gaskets for both and didn't need either of them! I found that there if you take off the air intake hose to the throttle body, you can see the sensor and just before it there is a black wiring box which is bolted with 2 bolts to the inlet manifold support bracket I think I unbolted the 2 bolts and lowered the black box a bit, then with an extension on a deep socket I was able to get the sensor out, putting the new one in without damaging the thread was a bit fiddly as the socket with the extension didn't fit properly onto the sensor, so I used the socket and turned it in by hand to start off with. Hope this helps!
December 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tips for our readers - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
Cloudbase Comments: I have an '89 E30 with running issues. I want to replace the coolant temp sensor, but the fuel rail is in the way. I realize this might not be an issue for earlier model's, but your DIY makes no mention of what is needed to remove to get in there. Perhaps a more thorough explanation of what needs to be removed and how to remove it would be help us new to the E30 out. Thanks...
December 16, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: A socket won't fit in there, the sensors are so close to the fuel rail. I would break them free using a 19mm wrench. Then unscrew by hand. The sensors are never tight enough to require removing with a tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
soul4t Comments: Hi, I have an E30 316i H-reg 1990 M40 engine, I have been pondering this problem for a couple of years and now it's starting to progress...When it starts from cold, it misses a few times, then it's fine, when it starts from warm just at the top of the blue line it turns over quickly but doesn't start first time. I have replaced the radiator as it was leaking a little, have checked the air hoses for a vacuum leak and changed oil, fuel and air filters periodically. I have just changed the spark plugs...the old ones were about 2 years old and they showed slight carbon build up...I guess it's running a bit rich, I had it checked by a BMW garage...expense! They replaced a breather pipe and suggested that they change the fuel rail. I wanted to check the Coolant temperature sensor but on the M40 engine it's under the top half of the inlet manifold, next to the fuel rail..I gathered from another forum so it will take some effort to get to it. Should I change the sensor and the fuel rail as I'll have to go to the effort or is there anything else I should investigate first? Thanks!

....Just remembered, I changed the distributor cap and rotar arm about 2 years ago, I haven't fully checked the HT leads but they are clean and seem newish...I've had the car about 3 years, I bought it off a elderly chap who couldn't drive anymore, at 43'000 miles! he'd had it about 10 years. Sorry...this seems to be the longest post ever! Thank you
December 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I'm not sure I can offer too much help. You might want to disconnect the coolant temp sensor wire (trace it back to the DME) and test the leads from there prior to tearing off the manifold to get to it. You can get some measurements at hot and cold, and that will tell you whether it's mostly working or not. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jenisse Comments: I have the 2002 325i... What do you think would be causing this??
November 26, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Again, the car is smart enough to be able to tell you what is wrong - check the trouble codes that the computer is giving you for clues where to start. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
mikec77 Comments: i have a 96 bmw 328i and every time i start the car the idle is very rough and will sometimes stall unless i hit the gas, rpms are really low at about 500. as soon as the car warms up while driving the idle smooth and idles at about 800. what are some things i should look for?
November 26, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: First thing is to check what codes the car is outputting. Take a look at the tech article I wrote on reading fault codes from the main computer, and that will give you a good idea where to start. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Jenisse Comments: Today when I turn my car on it like shook and turned off, but i turned it on again and it was fine. my mechanic had told me that i need to change my thermostat. Would the thermostat be causing my car to turn off??
November 26, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, not likely. I'm not sure which car you're referring to here, but I would check the fuel injection codes to see if the car is outputting any errors. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Luis Cancel Comments: hello I have a BMW 325e 1986 and it have 4 o 5 diferent sensor in the same area do you have any diagram, please..thank you my e mail is thank you again..
October 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Post a photo here and I'll see if I can help. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bill Comments: I have a 1989 E30 with a 2.5 L engine and need to replace the thermostat housing. Is there any trick to R&R the part without removing the fuel manifold and the intake manifold? I have removed the sensor but the housing will not clear the fuel manifold. remove the studs ..... other?
October 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you remove the coolant temp sensors first, the housing should come out past the fuel rail. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
puzzledbm Comments: BMW 320i E36 1993 intermittent fault - engine fails to start when it has reached normal operating temp. All electrics and other systems work OK. [incorrect address on previous listing]
September 21, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the fault codes from the DME - that's really the only thing you can do to help diagnose the problem. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
zike Comments: hi all i have a problem too with my bmw e30 the manuf. year is 1986 an the problem is idles steady at 1500 and 1800 rpm, i try all most any thing, the only thig that puts the idle down is when i unplug the temperature sensor when engine runing and it drops on 600 and 750 rpm nad then stops runing is the sensor foult or electronic thaks a lot
September 4, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check for vacuum leaks, they can cause this exact problem. Excess air may be getting by the air flow meter, and causing the high idle. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Richard Buckseall Comments: HI CAN ANY ONE HELP, I HAVE A 2000,318i.have changed thermo,and put in a new expansion tank. but the rad top up light on dash is allways on, have bled it loads off but still no luck is sensor easy to replace and will that cure it. oh and how much are they. tanks Richard, in Dorset
September 2, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yup, coolant sensors are cheap and easy to replace. If you still have a problem with the lamp going on after replacing hte sensor, the I would look closer at the wire harness. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
miketpdx Comments: My 1997 E36 BMW 328i- wldn't start in the morning w/o multiple attempts/pumping. Took it in & they replaced the coolant temp sensor. Prob fixed, but after 2nd day, steam started to spew from hood while driving. Open coolant reservoir & there wasn't a drop in it! Filled the rez & now coolant is leaking. What do you think they did wrong?
September 1, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure, but they certainly forgot to reconnect something. I would take it back to the shop and tell them to get it right. Hopefully you didn't overheat the car enough to cause a head gasket failure (like what happened on my car when it overheated while my wife was driving it). - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Sunnyr Comments: Would replacing the temp sensor sort out the problem i have on my 1990 325i of when the car is warm it will not start on the first try but only on the second.
August 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure - I would check to see what codes the DME computer is pushing out and start there. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
m10 e30 Comments: My temperature gauge often jumps around and doesn't give a consistent reading all the time. Could this be from a faulty coolant temp gauge?
August 16, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be the gauge itself, or it could be coolant sender, or it could be a loose wire / connection between the two somewhere. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
rugal316 Comments: my 318is auto idles steady at 1500 rpm, and stays there regardless if the car is warm or cold, do you think the tempreture sensor could be the culprit here?
August 5, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Difficult to tell, but I'd guess not. Could be a vacuum leak or a stuck idle control valve. It's difficult to diagnose over the Internet, but I would start there first. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
pj Comments: 95 325is temp gauge pretty much stays in the middle once it gets there it stays there even if ac is on or not at night when its cooler out it stays new radiator and all hope its normal what do u think
August 4, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The car is designed to run at a certain temperture and regulates itself using coolers (radiators), and such. In general, what you're describing is good behavior (after the car is warmed up of course). I wouldn't worry... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
bimmer 456 Comments: One of the smaller pipes on my 325i has snapped which is for the choke now the choke is always on but would this affect the car whn starting as the car is only starting when it is hot?
July 15, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The choke restricts airflow to the engine, and thus makes the mixture richer for cold starting. If you run with the choke on all the time, then your car will run rich, and gas mileage will suffer. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Garyk Comments: I have a 1998 BMW 318i SE. When I start the car in the mornings its fine. But eventually the temperature guage will drop to cold and start to rev its self up to around the 2000rpm mark. Sometimes the temp guage will also go up to the red but as soon as the temperature reverts back to normal the car will idle fine. Also if I turn off teh car when the temperature is either in the cold or in the hotred it will fail to start again unless I rev it.

Any ideas of what this could be?

June 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Crazy happenings here - I have never heard of the temperatures dropping around like that (to cold). I would guess you have an air bubble in the water cooling system - I would suggest that you rebleed the cooling system, and that might help. Make sure that you turn the heater on before you bleed. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
mikeeeeeeeeee Comments: so my e30 seems to do that similar high rev on first cold start of the day, then drops down. the car also never gets very much over the blue area on the temp gauge. at first i thought it was just the thermostat, the radiator and engine never seem to get very hot to the touch either, so do you guys think its the sensor or the thermostat? whatever it is, its causing the car to run rich.
June 17, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's probably a vacuum leak that is allowing air to seep in, and then when the car heats up, the leak probably seals itself. Check all your vacuum and intake hoses. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
WWUE30 Comments: What are the symptoms of a bad M20 Coolant Temp Sensor?
June 1, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Temp gauge reading the wrong temp. Check engine light on. Possible starting problems. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
lost in the desert Comments: 87 325is sucking air into the cooling system. Just replaced the timing belt, water pump, hoses and belts.
When hot and shut off, a sucking sound is coming from the rear of the motor.
Suspect the hoses need to be replaced.
Part numbers?
May 19, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If air is getting "sucked" into the cooling system, then you will have coolant leaking out elsewhere too. If no coolant is leaking, then perhaps you just have air in your system? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Dennis Comments: Can you tell me where the coolant temp sensor is located on the 1.9L Z3?
March 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is mounted in the cylinder head, near the oil filter housing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tkokerr Comments: I have a 2002 325i and lately if I start my car, alot of the time it will not run and less I am giving it gas. It was running ok once it was warm but is getting worse. Now it will die sometimes when idling in traffic. Could this be the temp sensor? If so, where is mine located? Thanks!
March 23, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This usually a faulty throttle housing. I have seen a similar problem here quite a bit in the cold months. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
nicE30 Comments: this is my car currently in intensive care!
January 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing the photo. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
nicE30 Comments: hi all, during removing,cleaning and reinstalling my injectors, on my e30 325i i accidentally broke the housing on my coolant temp sensor blue housing i tried starting my car and it seems it does not want to start and finally when it did it shut of after a few minutes but the idle was going up and down and since then it fails to start. when i pump at the accelerator it wants to start but it does not! could this be due to the broken coolant temp sensor or does this mean injectors are gone! im buying a new sensor in a few days but id thought u might advise of the symptoms!
January 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Was the problem present before the repair? If not, I would start by repairing the coolant temp sensor.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
Dido Comments: I hope you can help me on this, I was referred to you by Motorwerk BMW. My problem is, I forget to disconnect the transmission line while replacing the radiator on my 93 740.
When done, the engine would not start and the “ TRANS PROGRAM” message came on. After 4 hours I went back and try again and this time the car start and the message is gone. I wasn’t sure what happened. If you could help I will really appreciate it
January 5, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When you say transmission line do you mean cooler line? If you received a TRANS Program message, this refers to a fault in the transmission control system. It could be related to an electrical, mechanical or slip problem. If your fluid was low, you may have set it due to slipping. If you left the line off, it may have set due to low pressure.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nat Comments: I'm having a strange problem where unless I rev the engine there is no heat in the cabin, is this typical of a broken thermostat?
December 16, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, that is odd. I would check the heater valve: - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
jb9269 Comments: Could you please tell me the location of the coolant temp. sensor on a 1998 e36 328ic?
November 30, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi there. There is a coolant temperature sensor attached to the side of the cylinder head, near the intake manifold. See the head gasket article for some photos of this. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Mark Comments: I have a very rough and tired but previously 100% reliable 1990 325 Convertible that's somehow survived the last 17 years in North Africa, outliving my newer Land Rover and Ford Explorer.

The inlet bellows split, and a kind friend brought out a genuine replacement. I fitted it, which meant cutting the old one to pieces. The new one was for an auto, so I blanked off the extra hole.

The car now starts, but lacks power, and if you floor the throttle it simply cuts out and stops.

The fuel pump is giving 4.5bar or so. We found a couple of fuel leaks and sorted those, and now it's running, but on five cylinders... the fuel regulator is new, genuine BMW.

I'd like to check the ECU connectors but the handle snapped off the glovebox sometime before I owned the car, so I can't get to it and oh, how I've tried!.

Any ideas?!

October 30, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would probably take out the injectors and see if they are clogged, if you are having problems with only running on one? Also check spark to that cylinder too. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Mill Comments: Could you please tell me the location of the coolant temp.sensor on a 2000 528i?
October 4, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: On your car, I believe it's in the lower radiator hose. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Hec Comments: i have an e30 325is and it just started idling at about 2,500 rpm...not sure what is causing this...I do admit that the engine doesn't sound like it's at 2,500 but the rpm meter says it is...Not sure what's going on.
September 10, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the ICV and the MAF, also check for vacuum leaks. Is the check engine light on?
- Nick at Pelican Parts
KABUSAF Comments: This is a possibility for Luba, check the rear cv joints for excessive play. If badly worn it could cause a clunking noise. Also for Willy91, try checking for vaccume leaks and cleaning your Idle air control valve,and clean the throttle body bore. Good luck.
September 4, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.

- Nick at Pelican Parts
luba Comments: i have an e30 325 for drifting, i have an annoying cloncking noise during gear changes and any time i engage or disengage the drive. it comes from the rear and mostly central. i have a welded diff but this never used to cause it, i have recently solid mounted the subframe bushs and this has not cured it, i have been advised prob doughnut and centre bearing but i cant see how that would clonk at the back. ne ideas ne1? thanx
August 6, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, no I don't have any thoughts that would be useful. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
July 9, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: First thing I would check would be the vacuum hoses - when the car warms up, sometimes the leaks seal up. Squeeze all the hoses to check. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
July 8, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try disconnecting the power steering belt and driving around for a very short while. It may be that the pump is beginning to fail and putting a bit load on the engine. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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